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Building Tips and technical articles. => ARF'S => Topic started by: Paul Taylor on August 22, 2009, 04:59:37 PM
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I just finished up a ARC Brodak Bi-Slob.
This is a great kit. Parts are all laser cut and fit well together. The wood seems good. Not sure I could tell you if it is contest type wood, but not sure you want it in a Slob. <=
Here are some of my thoughts. None of this is in the instruction booklet, but I think it should be like a extra note for dummy's like me. n~
- You will need to trim down the exhaust side of the fuse to keep the exhaust stack from blowing right on the wood.
- You will also need to trim about 1/4 inch off the right side of the motor mount and trim the fuse so the prop will clear the nose. If you don't the prop will not turn over.
- You should mark the bottom and top wing and double check where the tip weight is located before you glue the wing in. Ask me how I know. HB~>
- And make sure you get the flaps glued on the same way on both wings. If not you will have to cut out the connector horn or the hinges. Either way you are cutting. Again ask me how I know. HB~>
Bottom line this is a great kit and for the experenced builder it is a slam dunk. But I hope this helps people like me, that still struggle a little with each build.
And it is a kick in the pants to fly!
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Paul, it appears that I may be a bit late in telling you this but I'll make the suggestion anyhow. I installed 1/32 doublers within my fuse from motor mounts and just past the bellcrank platform. I had my first one go slack on the lines then fly out with a good yank. The bellcrank suprisingly does come through the fuse. I didn't initially do this on my second one but after the inverted crash took off the top wing and snapped the cylinder head off of the Fox it made installing the doublers real easy then. I put the plane aside thinking it was trashed but I was quite surprised how easy it was to fix. The motor mounts that broke off were the toughest challenge but with a bit of drilling and using the Dremel I was able to cleanly get them out and install new bearers out of real maple which worked terrifically. I wouldn't hit the panic button if you didn't beef up the fuse area , but I'd surely watch out for jerking the lines. Ken
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Next one you do , don't cut the front of the fuse to clear the prop. I made a plywood disc and fit that to the Fox 35 shaft for the clearence that I needed. I don't remember any outboard wt on the wings but if you say it is there then it is, however aligning the rod hookup tabs will automatically guarentee you that you have the weight where it belongs.
Now get out there and have fun. I did tell you that I fly mine on a paved circle. Nothing like the smell of asphault to get your blood flowing with a slob.
Dennis
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Paul,et all;
What engine do you use, tank size/ set up and line dia/length?
Jim
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I have 2 one with an OS 35 s and the other with a Fox 35 . 58 foot lines a10/5 prop and the largest tank that will fit 4or 41/2 oz. :) :)
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Wow! Neal; You Da Man! I have 3 ounce tanks in both of mine with Fox 35's, and they almost fly to long for me.
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Paul; I added a little tip weight to both wings, and then added a square piece of 1/8" ply to each side of the outboard strut. I drilled a hole in the ply for a 4-40 socket head cap screw and an elastic aircraft nut to hold lead weights. Shuzam! A Red Neck tip weight box.
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Paul,et all;
What engine do you use, tank size/ set up and line dia/length?
Jim
Jim,
Fox 35 is what they were made for. Running sloppy wet. Not to say another engine will not work.
10x6 APC on 52 ft .015 size lines.
When the wind is blowing and you pack up your good planes, break out the bi-slob.
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Paul, I do have to say, that is probably the best looking Slob out there, now don't ruin it ;D ;) H^^
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Say, this sounds like fun. Who sell's the ARC versin of the Bi-Slob and what is the price of this kit. Any good tips appreciated. ...... TDurrill
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Say, this sounds like fun. Who sell's the ARC versin of the Bi-Slob and what is the price of this kit. Any good tips appreciated. ...... TDurrill
T,
They are fun.
Brodak offers them.
Check S&S hobbies. He is a Brodak dealer and can probably get you a ARC Bi Slob.
Roger V.
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Say, this sounds like fun. Who sell's the ARC versin of the Bi-Slob and what is the price of this kit. Any good tips appreciated. ...... TDurrill
The Arf is about the same price and may be more available, If you want to cover it yourself, removing the covering is pretty trivial.
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Ken Cook said: "I installed 1/32 doublers within my fuse from motor mounts and just past the bellcrank platform."
The plans I drew for the Flying Models article has doublers as you describe. I have never seen the kit or Arf plans, but that doubler should be there.
As for the prop clearance at the nose, either sand the outboard side down , or install the engine a little further forward. No big deal.
Interestingly, all of Ron Pavloer's "Slobs" had card board fuselages. The original "Slobs" used A Fox .35 or the original style Fox .25
My "Slobs" have a 4 ounce tank. I also add a blind nut in the middle of the outboard strut. This will allow you to bolt on additional weight is necessary.
Neal is right on with the line length.
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Good looking slobs are few and far between if they are tail dragging and flying them hard. The silly thing just makes me smile to fly it. I fly mine on 52 foot 15 mostly, but have flow it on 56 foot and they were OK too. To me the longer lines have a softer feel ,the slob has very little line tension and when tail swooshing the extra ability to whip the lines back and forth while saber dancing is a help.
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This based solely on my experience so I'm not looking to get flamed here. I have assembled the ARF version and built the kit version. I love them both. My son flies the kit version while I fly the ARF. I don't know if the ARC has the aluminum plate within the motor mount area or not. I believe it was added due to the wood that was removed out of the hardwood mount for the engine offset. In my opinion way too much material has been removed and there is too much offset. This offset is not needed and my kit version has no offset and it flies with the best of them. The offset as stated above is so great that the prop is hitting the cheek on the outboard side. The problem with the ARF version is that the holes are already drilled and without a major rework its just as easy to just take down the cheek and install the engine. I can't comment on the ARC as I don't know about its construction or if the holes are drilled. We fly many slobs on a regular basis and for those that are concerned with that engine offset I know its not needed to the degree the ARF's provide. Now as for the rudder, don't change that as I've found its very important to its flying ability. I snapped it off inverted one day and decided its really not a big deal so I put it in the air again. I did learn not to do that again as it kept trying to almost roll inboard. Ken
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The plans I drew for the Flying Models article has doublers as you describe. I have never seen the kit or Arf plans, but that doubler should be there.
When did that article appear? I just tried to look it up on the Flying Models web site -- they've changed their plans directory around. Instead of rough and plain-looking but workable, they've made it slick, sexy, and impossible to find anything using the 'search' feature.
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I just bought an ARC, maybe I'll get it before the holiday. Lots of great info guys, I'll use one of my Fox 35's. We fly at the Mt Joy airport so no muffler required. None of the guy's at the flying field have one that I know of so it should give us some laugh's. LL~ LL~ can't wait n~ n~
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You will have a ball with the Bi-Slob. Just lean the engine out enough to get airborne as once you break level flight the little Fox will be singing its song. Forget the 10-6 prop also. A 10-4 will do the trick. Also time your self so you don't run out of fuel at a bad time. H^^