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Building Tips and technical articles. => ARF'S => Topic started by: Leester on July 25, 2010, 05:25:18 PM
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Went flying today to test my ST G34 in my Arf Cardinal. I was going to follow the advice I was given by Brett and others in the Engine forums thread on ST G34. While doing my pre flight routine I pulled the handle and all was fine just needed a little tweek. I repeated the process and my bottom line went slack. The bottom line came off the bell crank (factory crimp job). I've flown this plane for about 3 years, I sure got LUCKY this time. The ARF will live for repairs. I was all set to see how the 34 would do on the 49 3/4 oz Cardinal , oh well a bell crank swap out is better than what could have happened.
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Lucky save!
There was a discussion recently -- I can't remember which forum -- about pull testing your model every time you fly. My lackadaisical nature says that's overkill -- but it would have caught this problem!
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You are so lucky. H^^
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I got the old B/C out after some cutting, now to wrap the new lead outs and reinstall. The way the wing tips are made will make it easy to get the lines into the adj. L.O.'s.
As the picture shows, the culprit was the crimp sleeve split in two. Looks like all my ARF's/ARC's will get new lead outs from now on.
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I attached new lines to the B/C and fished them through the wing with some .034 music wire. Buttoned up my cut outs, now to repair the covering and wrap the ends and I'm ready to go.. again.
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I attached new lines to the B/C and fished them through the wing with some .034 music wire. Buttoned up my cut outs, now to repair the covering and wrap the ends and I'm ready to go.. again.
That looks way easier than a total rebuild!
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That is looking good. Too bad we don't live closer together. I have a peice of 1/16 tubing 36 inches long for replacing leadouts on ARF/ARC's. For me much easier than trying to feed the thru the ribs for gluing together. Slide the tubing into the wing and then feed the leadouts into the tubing. Now you know why I don't like crimps. I used them once at a combat contest and never again. H^^
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Might have to barrow that idea Doc y1 y1
Tim, that was a piece of cake compared to a rebuild.
It's ready to go now ;D ;D
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I see you are using the annealed tubing over the cable. Sure makes it easier to do wraps than with the eyelets. Have you seen Bob Z's article in Control Line World? H^^
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Yes Doc, the tubing is the only way to go. Haven't got to the article yet but plan on it.
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Yes Doc, the tubing is the only way to go. Haven't got to the article yet but plan on it.
The way Doc showed of terminating the leadouts in the other thread is the same way I did it until I got around to the trick bellcrank. The key to the tubing is to make absolutely sure that there is NO free, uncovered wire. The teardrop has to go all the way around , touch at the ends, and then you have to run the wrap right to it and over it. If you leave even a little bit unsupported, the cable will eventually flex and break right where it exits the tube.
Brett
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Good job, Lee!
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Lee , don't forget to give us a flight report after switching to the ST .34 !
Bill
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Thanks Brett, I'll do the wrap as you said.
Thanks Larry, I've still got 4 more days off so we can get out and fly. I'm wanting to see how that 34 does, I'll check the weather and see whats up.
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I had the same problem with a 2006 ARF Vector... Showing the commands to a friend two years after (in 2008 ) and the bellcrank positive cable pull off in my hands (very luck to my Vector). I still flying with this Vector . #^
Luiz Dutra
Mococa/São Paulo-Brasil.
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Leester,
Thank you for the information and pictures. I cut into my ARF cardinal wing before installing it in the fuse and one of the crimps on the bell crank fell apart in my hand. Your pictures made it an easy job. It would have broke in a pull test. Was much easier to fix with wing not installed.
Art
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Leester,
Thank you for the information and pictures. I cut into my ARF cardinal wing before installing it in the fuse and one of the crimps on the bell crank fell apart in my hand. Your pictures made it an easy job. It would have broke in a pull test. Was much easier to fix with wing not installed.
Art
Righty-oh, Brother Zehner. Even if an ARF can be RTF in 8 hours, a extra couple of extra hours to shore up the control system is time well spent. Replacing the profile fuselage is another fine idea. Starting with an ARC makes all the above more practical. H^^ Steve