Engine:
I have, a OS FP .40 w/Muffler, an OS LA .40 W/Muffler, and a Silver Foxx .40 w/tongue muff....all with Front NVAs

What engine seems best suited for this ARF?
This will be my very first inverted engine model.

Please kind sirs... I know many many of you think the .46 is the ONLY proper engine... I do NOT have one, nor intend to seek one out

For what it is worth, I searched here and read every thread there is on SH about ARF Noblers (quite a bit of old and new information)

I have a full set of Tom Morris controls (with 3"BC) to install

I have read suggestions to NOT Epoxy the control horns into the Flaps or Elevator.. would like opinions on this subject... That said, if I did NOT glue the horn in the holes I would certainty harden the hole with CA

I have seen several references to re-making the vert stab and rudder to real air foil shape...is there some compelling reason to do this other than correct look... (I sport fly only for my own giggles)

Yes Virginia, I do intend to fuel proof and reinforce the nose, add a weight box, and some other recommended "improvements"

BUT that said, is there a compelling reason to cut open the wing tip and add adjustable lead outs? ...I have several of Pat Johnston's versions

Much has been written on the new supplied Plastic 6 Oz clunk tank-- but I never did see a way to adjust tank height...trial fitting there is not hardly any up or down adjust-ability ...I do see I can skew the outer back corner slightly to outside of circle, and I do plan muff pressure and standard vent for the TF supplied plastic tank... Opinions, ideas, hints

Yes I know I could adapt the tank to use Uniflo and the "z" bend trick to adjust vent height inside the tank

Final question, and this is an area I suck at on all the kits I have built"

I see several references to insuring the wing and stab incidences are checked and set 0 0.... BUT I get the impression that the engine mounts already have built in down thrust

So the question is what do I use to reference a true 0 0 incidence on the ARF?

BUT since I sport fly only with the occasion loop, wing over, my Crazy Ivan (long oval loop) and just a bunch of ad hoc maneuvers, is fiddling with a perfect 0 0 incidence really worth any effort?

BUT since I sport fly only with the occasion loop, wing over, my Crazy Ivan (long oval loop) and just a bunch of ad hoc maneuvers, is fiddling with a perfect 0 0 incidence really worth any effort?
well the simple answer is, do what makes you ahppy, but I can promise you, the more accurate and better aligned the model is, the more fun you will have with it, especially if there is a serious problem with incidence that you choose to overlook and it ends up causing in flight issues and ultimatly a ground penetrating crash,, so short answer, do whatever you choose, long answer please, at the very least check and verify the incidence as assembled

The supplied fuel tank works just fine. Both of mine fly with .40s with power to spare. If you make all of the suggested mods they are great flying models.PhillySkip

Mark I get that ---but there were enough references to checking the 0 0 incidence...(I assumed a not correctly cut or built ARF)

My muddled writing caused the confusion to the real question.

As the engine bearers are (assumed) built with down thrust what is the correct datum line I need to use to see if the wing, Stab, or both are on a 0 0 plane?

The follow on would be ...considering my inept flying ability and preference for just sport flying is....IF, on this plane is a 1/2 degree diff really worth fiddling with

Are they usually close or is this a real issue and some are way whacked?

Additionally I mostly build Profiles and this is very first full fuse craft. On the profiles I check this on the plan and the fuselage with Two long straight edges.  I do not have twin incidence meters ( or even just one) but if I did again what datum ref would I level the fuselage to?

I use the wing for reference, then align everything else to that as  a general rule. I dont recall my ARF Nobler having downthrust in it.
Its pretty tough to do without incidence meters,

Engine:
I have, a OS FP .40 w/Muffler, an OS LA .40 W/Muffler, and a Silver Foxx .40 w/tongue muff....all with Front NVAs

[font=Verdana]If you are an engine guy or comfortable I would probably go with the LA, opinions vary , I am not an LA 40 fan, but the FP can be a handfull unless you follow the info you can find on here. I had good luck with the FPs I used but I had help[/font]

What engine seems best suited for this ARF?
This will be my very first inverted engine model.

Please kind sirs... I know many many of you think the .46 is the ONLY proper engine... I do NOT have one, nor intend to seek one out
Unfortunate, the LA 46 is IMHO better than any of the three listed

For what it is worth, I searched here and read every thread there is on SH about ARF Noblers (quite a bit of old and new information)

I have a full set of Tom Morris controls (with 3"BC) to install
Good plan, controls ate mine

I have read suggestions to NOT Epoxy the control horns into the Flaps or Elevator.. would like opinions on this subject... That said, if I did NOT glue the horn in the holes I would certainty harden the hole with CA
[font=Verdana]If the alignment of the horn and hinges is solid, its not a problem, however I have taken to making my surfaces removable so harden the hole but dont epoxy[/font]

I have seen several references to re-making the vert stab and rudder to real air foil shape...is there some compelling reason to do this other than correct look... (I sport fly only for my own giggles)
This is kind of like rudder offset, current thinking is no, no offset, no airfoil

Yes Virginia, I do intend to fuel proof and reinforce the nose, add a weight box, and some other recommended "improvements"

BUT that said, is there a compelling reason to cut open the wing tip and add adjustable lead outs? ...I have several of Pat Johnston's versions

Yes, an adjustable leadout is important, I thought the ARF had one on it as it came out of the box

Much has been written on the new supplied Plastic 6 Oz clunk tank-- but I never did see a way to adjust tank height...trial fitting there is not hardly any up or down adjust-ability ...I do see I can skew the outer back corner slightly to outside of circle, and I do plan muff pressure and standard vent for the TF supplied plastic tank... Opinions, ideas, hints

I make my own tanks ( well prior to going electric) no comment on plastic tanks except I dont like them , my opinion

Yes I know I could adapt the tank to use Uniflo and the "z" bend trick to adjust vent height inside the tank

Final question, and this is an area I suck at on all the kits I have built"

I see several references to insuring the wing and stab incidences are checked and set 0 0.... BUT I get the impression that the engine mounts already have built in down thrust

So the question is what do I use to reference a true 0 0 incidence on the ARF?

BUT since I sport fly only with the occasion loop, wing over, my Crazy Ivan (long oval loop) and just a bunch of ad hoc maneuvers, is fiddling with a perfect 0 0 incidence really worth any effort?

Get incidence meters and do it right, but dont get the silly laser version, I have one and cannot give it away, I hate it