Engine:
I have, a OS FP .40 w/Muffler, an OS LA .40 W/Muffler, and a Silver Foxx .40 w/tongue muff....all with Front NVAs
[font=Verdana]If you are an engine guy or comfortable I would probably go with the LA, opinions vary , I am not an LA 40 fan, but the FP can be a handfull unless you follow the info you can find on here. I had good luck with the FPs I used but I had help[/font]
What engine seems best suited for this ARF?
This will be my very first inverted engine model.
Please kind sirs... I know many many of you think the .46 is the ONLY proper engine... I do NOT have one, nor intend to seek one out
Unfortunate, the LA 46 is IMHO better than any of the three listed
For what it is worth, I searched here and read every thread there is on SH about ARF Noblers (quite a bit of old and new information)
I have a full set of Tom Morris controls (with 3"BC) to install
Good plan, controls ate mine
I have read suggestions to NOT Epoxy the control horns into the Flaps or Elevator.. would like opinions on this subject... That said, if I did NOT glue the horn in the holes I would certainty harden the hole with CA
[font=Verdana]If the alignment of the horn and hinges is solid, its not a problem, however I have taken to making my surfaces removable so harden the hole but dont epoxy[/font]
I have seen several references to re-making the vert stab and rudder to real air foil shape...is there some compelling reason to do this other than correct look... (I sport fly only for my own giggles)
This is kind of like rudder offset, current thinking is no, no offset, no airfoil
Yes Virginia, I do intend to fuel proof and reinforce the nose, add a weight box, and some other recommended "improvements"
BUT that said, is there a compelling reason to cut open the wing tip and add adjustable lead outs? ...I have several of Pat Johnston's versions
Yes, an adjustable leadout is important, I thought the ARF had one on it as it came out of the box
Much has been written on the new supplied Plastic 6 Oz clunk tank-- but I never did see a way to adjust tank height...trial fitting there is not hardly any up or down adjust-ability ...I do see I can skew the outer back corner slightly to outside of circle, and I do plan muff pressure and standard vent for the TF supplied plastic tank... Opinions, ideas, hints
I make my own tanks ( well prior to going electric) no comment on plastic tanks except I dont like them , my opinion
Yes I know I could adapt the tank to use Uniflo and the "z" bend trick to adjust vent height inside the tank
Final question, and this is an area I suck at on all the kits I have built"
I see several references to insuring the wing and stab incidences are checked and set 0 0.... BUT I get the impression that the engine mounts already have built in down thrust
So the question is what do I use to reference a true 0 0 incidence on the ARF?
BUT since I sport fly only with the occasion loop, wing over, my Crazy Ivan (long oval loop) and just a bunch of ad hoc maneuvers, is fiddling with a perfect 0 0 incidence really worth any effort?
Get incidence meters and do it right, but dont get the silly laser version, I have one and cannot give it away, I hate it