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Author Topic: a.r.f vector 40???????????  (Read 2356 times)

Offline steve pagano

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a.r.f vector 40???????????
« on: November 27, 2006, 11:44:55 AM »
I know this question has been asked before but i cant find the post so ill ask it any way.I just got a good look at the controls on the arf do they need to be worked?
It looks like the leadout can cut through the bellcrank easily even though i never had any problems with my arf cardinal.
Success isn't a destination.It's a journey!!!!!
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Offline Leester

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Re: a.r.f vector 40???????????
« Reply #1 on: November 27, 2006, 12:44:11 PM »
From what I've heard just to be safe replace it.
Leester
ama 830538

Offline Jim Oliver

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Re: a.r.f vector 40???????????
« Reply #2 on: November 27, 2006, 01:32:27 PM »
Two things more likely to happen than the leadout cutting thru the crank:

1.  The leadouts fail at the bellcrank due to repeated flexing--will take a while but will   happen eventually.

2.  The leadouts fail at one of the crimped connections--may or may not happen.

Protect yourself accordingly ~^.

Cheers,

Jim
Jim Oliver
AMA 18475

Offline Ron King

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Re: a.r.f vector 40???????????
« Reply #3 on: November 28, 2006, 03:34:26 PM »
I have not built an ARF Vector, but have built two ARC Cardinals and one ARF Nobler. I saw the crimped leadouts and didn't think twice - I cut into the center section and replaced the leadouts right away on every one of these planes. They all have many flights and are still working well.

I have enough problems in the center of the circle already. To achieve success in this hobby/sport, you should try to eliminate as many problems as possible. That's why we spend so much time, effort, and money to build straight models, get consistent engine runs, and trim out our planes.

Why leave something to chance? I have seen a couple of these planes fly very well in stock condition, but I have also heard a few horror stories.  '' ''

My vote is to go ahead, spend the two hours and change the leadouts. Then you can worry about something else.  n~ n~

Ron King
AMA AVP District 4
Wannabe Stunt Pilot since 1963
 Amateurs practice until they get it right; Pros practice until they cannot get it wrong.

Offline Steve Helmick

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Re: a.r.f vector 40???????????
« Reply #4 on: November 28, 2006, 04:00:54 PM »
Avoiding an accident with careful attention to the control system is the best investment you can make. Save yourself from calling AMA, hiring a Lawyer, etc. Just do it, and don't worry about the time or money, because it will very possibly save you a bunch of both.  ~~>  Steve
"The United States has become a place where professional athletes and entertainers are mistaken for people of importance." - Robert Heinlein

In 1944 18-20 year old's stormed beaches, and parachuted behind enemy lines to almost certain death.  In 2015 18-20 year old's need safe zones so people don't hurt their feelings.

Offline George Waters

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Re: a.r.f vector 40???????????
« Reply #5 on: November 29, 2006, 08:02:23 AM »
Do yourself a favor and replace the controls. My arf Nobler made 1.5 flights before the pin fell out of the elevator clevis,guess what happened then? Two new motor mounts and a new cowl, great planes sent the cowl for free after I called them about the clevis failure. Better safe than sorry. George

Offline peabody

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Re: a.r.f vector 40???????????
« Reply #6 on: December 09, 2006, 06:08:15 PM »
I believe that the Vector ARF/ARC bellcrank and leadouts are fine....
I am slipping a .225 o.d. carbon pushrod OVER the stock flap to elevator pushrod to eliminate flexing and I am using a HD DuBro clevis....

Offline Richard Grogan

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Re: a.r.f vector 40???????????
« Reply #7 on: December 11, 2006, 01:05:14 AM »
I believe that the Vector ARF/ARC bellcrank and leadouts are fine....
I am slipping a .225 o.d. carbon pushrod OVER the stock flap to elevator pushrod to eliminate flexing and I am using a HD DuBro clevis....
I did the same trick with the CF rod over the elevator wire rod.JB Welded in the tube and on both ends.. I used ballinks in place of the clevises supplied at the flap horn for both belcrank rod and elevator rod. I used the z bend end on the belcrank itself, and a z-bend on the elevator horn itself.The leadout connections looked fine on both ends. I also recommend the tank thats specially built for this model; it fits like a glove.
Long Live the CL Crowd!

                  AMA 85745

Offline Manuel Cortes

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Re: a.r.f vector 40???????????
« Reply #8 on: December 11, 2006, 01:35:52 AM »
Hello all:
On my Brodak ARFs, the only mod is making a carbon fibre pushrod with ball links, I believe the rest is OK.
Regards.

Offline Dennis Moritz

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Re: a.r.f vector 40???????????
« Reply #9 on: December 11, 2006, 09:06:10 AM »
I haven't seen any Brodak ARFs fail. Lots of them are flying in our club. To my knowledge all the controls are stock. Only hinges have been replaced. Some airplanes have flown for a number of seasons. Are we talking about competition flying and practising? Don't think so. Although many of these planes have flown in competion, they have not been subject to a serious practise regiment. Flight after flight, day after day. It's always possible to make a peek hole to check leadout condition at the belcrank. Replacing the leadouts isn't much problem. Bushing the leadouts at the belcrank is more tricky.

Offline Jim Morris

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Re: a.r.f vector 40???????????
« Reply #10 on: February 28, 2007, 12:25:34 PM »
Hi Steve, from my experience,I purchased a Vector 40 arf to just slap together and have an extra plane, so I used the stock controles. It didnt fly very well do to the fact the controles were not set up correctly, my fault, so if I ever get another one I will only use Tom Morris controles and spend the extra time getting the thing right.The biggest reason for me NOT to use the stock controles is that there is no adjustment to get them perfect.


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