I've got a McCoy/Testors motor, marked "No 2" and "048" on the side.

It's a car motor -- it has a flywheel and a gear.  Inspecting the end of the crank shaft that I can see, it looks like it's threaded.  I want to get rid of all that, and replace it with a prop driver etc.

Anyone have any experience with these?  Either the flywheel and gear is all cast as one piece and it all needs to come off the crank together, or the flywheel is machined as a "prop driver" and the gear is the nut that holds it on.  This would make it much easier to disassemble.

I'd like to know before I start wrenching on it...

Sell the engine to a collector who will value it for what it is and buy a Babe Bee on e-Bay.  Both of you will be a lot happier!

I value it for the lousy, low quality, vice-grip-mauled piece of fertilizer that it is, and I want to put a hand-machined prop driver on it and fly a plane with it!

Oh, yeah its a .049

Tim, thats correct as far as the two or three that i have removed. I wouldnt use a hammer though, it mite crack the crank.

If your not using the fly wheel again just pull it off with a pair of vice grips, I've done it before.

After promising to use a puller, and trying to use a puller, I used a punch.  It came out fine with no damage.

Good stuff, when putting the new one on I just pressed it on with my hands the best I could then put a prop on and tightened it on.

It's not necessarily a lousy low quality engine. A Baby Bee thrust plate will also fit on it and you now have a light weight FRV sport engine that can easily be adapted to a large variety of tank and mounting configurations.  Some of these engines will out pull a two port SPI Baby Bee. They also run pretty good on a machined out Testor/Wen-Mac glow head w/ a std. short plug.  Often there are compression problems related to certain versions of glow heads and aluminum head gaskets. Switch to ald style copper head gaskets and old Wen Mac heads.