You can get a decent fuel proof finish on sheet balsa surfaces using spay can primer and Rust-oleum paint.

Do a search on this board for Rust-oleum, it has been covered in detail within the last 6 months or so. i have used it with good results.

Built up wings and stuff I go with shrink film, monocoat or similar, fast, fuel prrof and light.

One is my "red Devil" hollow log and the other is the tiny, profile "Crazy Crate" Both all balsa and no open framework.
If it were all open framework I would actually have no problem.

Bill, I think for the moment I will go with the Rustolem.

Paul, there is a small airport nearby and they have hanger space and I have seen people working on their planes. I doubt there is a spray booth there but someone is bound to have some dope I might be able to buy from them.


Robert

Mark, thank you, I should check the regulars like Brodak and Sig to get a handle on things. cannot access Brodak for now due to site maintainence for now. I have read somwhere that the Brodak clear isin't really clear but they offer a crystal clear for a lot more.

i dunno for now, need to do some more in depth checking.

Robert

...I have read somwhere that the Brodak clear isin't really clear but they offer a crystal clear for a lot more.

i dunno for now, need to do some more in depth checking.

Robert

I believe the Crystal Clear is for top coating put over the finish to protect it. It won't yellow. Many folks use automotive products for this. I have not used the Crystal Clear, but I have used Brodak regular Clear and like it. I do not top coat.

Some water-based Urathane varnishes are fuel proof, but I don't know which ones. 

If you choose Rustoleum, remember that metalics and clear are not fuel proof (unless they have changed).

George

Robert,

My practical information on Rustoleum is limited...mostly on lawn furniture. 

The information on clear and metalics is from threads here and elsewhere.

I mostly use hobby shop brushes. Just make sure you keep it "wet" so the hairs will not pull out.

George

Truly, I was hoping for an inexpensive substitute for the sable. As all of us should know, good care of a brush, whether cheap or expensive will profoundly extend the life of said brush well beyond any other brush with less care.
So be it if I have to pay more than five dollars for a good brush, so long as I treat it as though it were my only brush!

Gotta love you guys, You are the best!

For now there is to be no painting as I live in an apartment with shared ventilation with 2 other tenants and today it was rainy with sleet...
At Wallyworld I saw a can of Krylon Metallic green in the reduced isle... I was tempted.  knowing that there isn't much I could cover it with left me dry.

Robert

Yes the stray hairs can be a nuisance but for myself it is very minor.

I have an idea that may be the answer. Need some good weather to test it!

Robert 

Ray, thank you so much my good man!

You have made it very simple to remember and have provided a simple way to take full advantage of this system!

The idea I mentioned in my last post could change this drastically...

Robert

They also offer a clear gloss that can be applied over the color, we use it to make decals fuel proof.
Larry

Larry,

By "they", are you saying Rustoleum? Some had reported that Rustoleum clear is not fuel proof. If you have had good results with the "clear gloss" I am wondering if they have changed their formula or perhaps the "gloss" is fuel proof and there are other clears that are not. Perhaps their metalics are now fuel proof also.

Anyone tried these lately?

Someone had also commented that it took about a week of drying time for it to get fuel proof. Perhaps that is the key.

George

     Black Hawk Models and several other manufactures who print their own decals spray 2 to three coats of clear gloss rustoleum over the decals to fuel proof them and have for years. I will not mention which other manufactures do this as they may not want it known.
Larry

I was warned about the Rustoleum Clear so never tried it myself, bad policy I know.  When I need a glossy topcoat I use that rattlecan "spar varnish" stuff made for boats I think. Very fuelproof but I notice it yellows a little over white, not evenly either, probably varies according to thickness of the coat. Not noticeable over colors.

Ditto the metallics, and neons, I never tried them since "everyone" said they're not fuel resistant at all.

Not being a chemist, paint or otherwise, I have no idea why fuel-resistant properties would vary from one color to the next, but that is what I found from my experience with the standard colors.   

Hey Robert, give Rustoleum Clear, metallics, etc. a shot and let us know what you find.

    Robert, this might come a bit late but seeing that your a 1/2A enthusiast you might want to try some of the water base Nelson paints. These type of water base polyurethane paints might seem a bit high for cost but they go a long way. I've been using these paints extensively with 35-40% nitro with no harm. This is a big plus with these smaller models. I've kept in touch with Jerry Nelson for approx 4 yrs now since I've been using these paints. The paint itself has a long shelf life. The crosslinker which is used for additional fuel proofing and also aids in painting over open fabric does have a shelf life approx 1 yr. I use Nitrate for my base coat because I have it on hand and its recommended. Jerry also has a 2 part water base epoxy primer which I've used as well. It works terrifically and sands well. Its quite amazing how little paint is needed. All my paint is done using and foam brush or artist brush. I've never sprayed this product. The paint does have a tendency to run until you get used to it. In the event you decide to try this paint, just forget everything you learned about painting. Jerry provides a detailed instruction sheet with do's and dont's. This paint has a remarkable shine and longevity. I paint in my house with a very light odor. This paint has hardly any smell whatsoever. Water is the thinner and this is a big savings compared to dopes. The paint has taken me a few models to get it down so don't expect perfection overnight. There is a lot of paint to use in a pint for experimentation. I prefer to use the nitrate as a base so that no water penetrates the wood. This paint dries in approx 10 min and can be recoated then as well. This paint requires several water thin coats to achieve depth and even color. The colors match Monokote terrifically and my kids love it as well. I don't have a digital camera but I sure would like to post some of the paint jobs I've done with this product. Ken Cook

      Robert, the website is www.nelsonhobby.com. Jerry is a great person to deal with and deliveries usually reach my door in a few days. Depending on his schedule, he has delayed some orders I placed. I was curious as to what type of colors you might be possibly considering. I might have some colors to spare. This paint is expensive but it does have its advantages. I don't have the luxury of spray equipment and I know this paint would go on immaculate if I had the ability to do so. I'm still trying to work out the runs that I sometimes get. I truly get a lot less now then I ever did, but I have spent a lot of time trying this paint. I'm not sure if you get Flying Models, Dan Banjock with his Cosmic Wind was in there featured at the Brodak's fly-in the October issue 2007. The plane was used in Foxberg and is shown with the wing torn off. To this day, the plane has a terrific gloss and showing no sign of fuel problems after hundreds of flights. Dan is a die hard dope and silkspan fan but after some talking into it he was willing to give it a go. I purchase the paints through a friend of mine who is a dealer of Jerry's products. I never weighed these finishes but I don't think they're as heavy as some claim them to be. I truly need to do a weight comparison. I do use a few coats of nitrate dope under this paint. In Dan's case he elected to use the 2 part water based epoxy system. He claimed it filled excellent and sanded extremely well. I chose not to purchase it solely based on the fact I had the dope. Jerry had told me that this paint attaches well to nitrate while poor adhesion to butyrate. I've never put that kind of a detailed paint job on a 1/2 a bird. I'm quite envious actually. I'd be interested if this paint would provide the same quality job for you. Ken