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Author Topic: reed retainer  (Read 660 times)

Offline Bootlegger

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reed retainer
« on: September 18, 2020, 10:11:23 AM »

 What is the best way to install a cox 049 engine reed retainer?  Obliged... H^^
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Offline Tim Wescott

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Re: reed retainer
« Reply #1 on: September 18, 2020, 11:27:39 AM »
This guy puts it in backwards from how I usually do -- he puts the butt end in first, and then the tail.  I find it works better to put the tail end (the free end) in first, and then just kind of work the thing into the grove in a circle.

That's unexplainable in words -- I hope the video helps.  Start watching at 1:24.  If your fingers are too thick you can probably grip the retainer with a pair of needle-nose pliers, but at great risk of marring the reed.

When you're done, make sure the reed is free to move from side to side under the retainer -- the retainer can get cocked in the groove, at which point parts of it will extend too far into the reed bore and hold the reed firmly -- you do not want that.  The retainer should not be clamping the reed -- just providing a back-stop so it doesn't come out of its bore.

https://youtu.be/C8oWlgmYFnI?t=84
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Offline Norm Furutani

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Re: reed retainer
« Reply #2 on: September 18, 2020, 02:19:09 PM »
If I remember correctly, the wire retainer is not flat and the part in the middle is bent slightly up. If it’s the plastic retainer, the position doesn’t matter and it also serves as the crankcase gasket.

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Offline Tim Wescott

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Re: reed retainer
« Reply #3 on: September 18, 2020, 07:56:38 PM »
What Motorman said -- he worded it much better than my version.
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Offline kenneth cook

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Re: reed retainer
« Reply #4 on: September 19, 2020, 05:40:20 AM »
           You didn't mention which engine this was for. Keep in mind especially if this is a new part, Cox offered two different thickness circlips. If your re using the existing, no worries. I used a thicker circlip which wasn't compatible with my tank. As a result, the circlip came out  and almost exited through the side of the case. I still use this engine and while it destroyed the piston and cylinder, the case has a large bulge on the side of if. In addition, certain reeds like a Teflon reed is also thicker which requires the thinner circlip. Teflon reeds also like to stick to each other and it's difficult to separate them. I prefer the Mylar or the stainless reeds but the old copper star reed works quite well but is easily damaged.  Always test the reed after installation with a screwdriver to insure it moves. Next hook a syringe with tubing to the back of the tank venturi and try to pull the plunger out. If you can pull the plunger at all the reed isn't sealing. Remove it, flip it over and try again. Use a drop of oil on it when doing so. If you can't achieve a leak free test try another reed.


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