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Building Tips and technical articles. => 1/2 A building. => Topic started by: Larry Renger on July 09, 2012, 04:34:16 PM
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There was an R/C fun fly and swap meet at the Sepulveda Basin yesterday. I scored a real gem! Those guys haven't a clue when it ain't an R/C .60 or ARF.
I got a NEW McCoy .049 diesel for $10! VD~ I can't wait to run it! #^
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Bolt it onto that Baby Clown and bring it to VSC-25 next March!
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I have some Banner wheels I can add.... S?P
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I love R/C swaps too. Not as good pickings these days as it was in the '80s, I got some good engines back in then at the Toledo show swap meet, seems like the word got out now that C/L stuff has a market.
I did luck out at one here in FL a couple years ago, got a package deal of 2 TeeDee .010s, a couple spare glow heads, about 10 new .049 glow heads, 4 of which were the old style TeeDee High comp heads, and a Sullivan 1/2A Glo Lock. All for $100.
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Way to go Larry. I too used to find good bargains at swap meets until I got to be well known. Still have the McCoy .60 Redhead set up for Navy Carrier with Bill Johnson's early throttle control. Cost me a whole five dollar bill for it. H^^
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Hi Larry,
What version did you get?
I have two early models, and one later beam mount version.
Sure wish I could check the crank in the early ones, but they both have been broke in, so I'm not about to disassemble them.
ACE Hardware Bunna-N O-rings work very well in mine. I'd like to try Viton, but haven't found them in small enough quantities! Number 10 size btw.
Bill
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We used to have a R/C Swap Meet over in Fayetteville for several years. Haven't heard of one in quite a while......
But, while it was going I did score some good stuff! One was an almost brand new Veco/Allyn .35. The ones that looked like K&B Torps (the exhaust stack on the "wrong side"). Got it for $5 and a couple very good McCoy .35RHs for the same.
Bill
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If the o-rings are the same as for the cub, I have a bunch of Viton ones. y1 PM me your address and I'll send you one to try. If it fits, more available! I think they were 1/2" od and 1/16" diameter material. I can check later today.
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Hi Larry,
Thanks for the offer. H^^
The O-rings I'm using are 1/4" ID, and 1/16" diameter, which is a # 010 on the standard size chart.
Have you tried to remove the muff from your engine? I could not budge any of mine with a strap wrench, so I mounted them on the test stand and ran them up to operating temperature. I then gripped the muff with a rag to keep from burning my fingers, and twisted with one hand.
Somewhere during the cool down period, the muff suddenly let go and came off easily. This worked with both of the early radial mount engines. The newer model has never been run, and will probably stay that way.
I'll keep your offer in mind, but I've been told that the Cub and McCoy .049 diesels don't take the same ring size.
Bill
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By "muff" I assume you mean the fin unit? I have never heard it called that.
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Yes, correct.
I think the term is pretty common in Europe, and down under, where diesel engines or more popular. I'm not sure where I picked it up, but probably in one of the English magazines I used to trade for with UK pen pals.
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Bill, I have one that has a busted rod. I can check the shaft. What might you want to check on the shaft?
Bigiron
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Hi Marv,
Thanks for the kind offer, but that won't help identify the crank shafts in my engines.
I know you know this, but for others here who may not - early McCoy radial mount .049 diesels suffered early crank shaft fractures at the intake port. They later changed the ports to minimize, or eliminate the problem.
I'm not the original owner of my two early models, so I can't remove the cranks to inspect them. Getting screw in cylinders to index the same way twice is nearly impossible, so the cylinder to piston fit would wear in again at whatever new position the cylinder stopped. That additional wear can shorten the life of the engine significantly.
I'm thinking a small light source could be pushed up inside the crank, so the corner radius of the crank ports might be visible down the venturi throat.
I've been running the engines gently, but would not worry as much if I knew the cranks were fixed.
Bill
Bill, I have one that has a busted rod. I can check the shaft. What might you want to check on the shaft?
Bigiron
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If I remember correctly, the early radial mounted ones that broke had a square intake and the later ones are round. I seem to have one of each.
For those who have busted a crank. Were you using a small prop for high revs? I remember GMA writing that you should never under prop a diesel. I think he was refering to the older ones.
George
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Hi George,
My original McCoy .049 diesel was run on Olde English mix (equal parts, and no Cetane booster), using the recommended 6X4 prop. Never had a problem with crank failure, even though it was my first diesel engine.
The Brit pen pal I sent it to made a proper metal contrapiston, and also had no crank failure. He said it was the strongest small diesel he had ever run!
I've tried to see the intake port shape looking down the venturi with a strong light, but couldn't make it out.
Bill