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Author Topic: Wasp .061 and BMJR TEOSAWKI  (Read 724 times)

Offline Dave Nyce

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Wasp .061 and BMJR TEOSAWKI
« on: December 23, 2019, 12:03:58 PM »
Building a 1/2A TEOSAWKI kit from BMJR.  It's a very nice kit !   Would a Wasp .061 work well with the throttle wired to stay full open?  6-3 prop?  Probably use Sig Champion 15 fuel.
Dave Nyce   New Bern, NC 
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Offline bob whitney

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Re: Wasp .061 and BMJR TEOSAWKI
« Reply #1 on: December 23, 2019, 01:39:36 PM »
yes that would make a good combination, about 48ft lines would work good
rad racer

Offline Dan McEntee

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Re: Wasp .061 and BMJR TEOSAWKI
« Reply #2 on: December 23, 2019, 04:39:13 PM »
  Hey Dave;
   If you go through this 1/2A forum, there have been a couple of threads on changing out the carb for a Cox TD venturi and needle valve assembly. Not very difficult to do and you will avoid unsteady runs from any extra air that can leak around a throttle body and barrel. I have done one but haven't put it on anything yet, hope to remedy that soon. I got the parts pretty reasonable from one of the on line Cox parts suppliers.
   HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!
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Offline Bill Adair

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Re: Wasp .061 and BMJR TEOSAWKI
« Reply #3 on: December 23, 2019, 05:08:57 PM »
Hi Dave,

I tried running one of mine on the bench with the R/C carb locked open, and found that just breathing too hard on the needle caused big changes in rpm! Pretty sure that was either sloppy threads on the needle, and/or poor fit of the carb barrel.

As Dan said, the conversions are pretty simple, so I would recommend doing that.

I've used both the sleeve J-B welded into the existing case opening, and the stock Cox Tee Dee .049 venturi screwed into that, or better yet the excellent conversion kits made by a fellow forum member (who unfortunately doesn't make them any longer).

If I had to use the existing carb I'd run it in the air to find the best carb opening, as they usually have better fuel draw with the carb closed a little from wide open! Of course wide open may work OK in the air, where the engine unwinds a little after launch. A good indication that the carb is open too far is the engine slowing and/or dying immediately after launch, but other things can also cause the same symptoms.

One problem some flyers have reported was caused by using too small fuel line on hi-performance engines like the Wasps, etc. The fuel nipples on some engines are misleading, as the nipples are smaller, and easily except too small tubing. Check for that, and use the next size fuel tubing with fuel line clamps, or twisted copper wire to keep the ends snug on the nipples.

Bill
« Last Edit: December 23, 2019, 06:14:36 PM by Bill Adair »
Not a flyer (age related), but still love the hobby!

Offline kenneth cook

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Re: Wasp .061 and BMJR TEOSAWKI
« Reply #4 on: December 27, 2019, 03:55:31 AM »
              I personally have never found 6" props to work on the Wasp or Norvel engines. The Cox 6x3 also offers a lot of blade area and loads the engine too much. These engines like to turn up therefore reducing the pitch is necessary.
             The Wasp uses a aluminum head gasket which generally leaks so replace them with copper gaskets. The AP plug used is actually a decent plug as it offers good rpm's, however it's short lived requiring another plug. Merlin Globee drop ins were the choice of many of us that used the engine. Unfortunately, no longer available so the Nelson/Galbreath adapter is the best logical choice. There's also another option which is slightly harder to locate which is KAMTECHNIK.com which uses a turbo plug.

            Having a few props on hand is a good start. APC offers a 5.5 x 2 and a 5.5x2.5. The APC 5x3 is also a good choice as it has a narrow blade area. APC also offers a 6x2 but I never found that to do any more than put the rpm's into orbit with hardly any drive. While the above props I mentioned seem very close in size, they work quite well. Your experiences may differ so having props on hand are in order.  The AP Wasp used a larger than Norvel prop screw requiring one to open the holes up in props designed around the Cox 5-40 prop screw.  The porting of a AP Wasp is the same style of porting used on the Norvel Big Mig engines. While you mentioned 15% nitro, the engine will run equally as well on 10% nitro with the other optional heads I mentioned.

              My AP Wasp mod used to be on the Sticky bulletin board on the site. I made a aluminum adapter and threaded it 1/4-32 for the Cox venturi to screw in. If one decides to go this route, I removed the stock carb screws and tapped the case for the set screws from a wheel collar to hold the adapter into the case. Cox International offers a venturi/needle valve assembly which uses the Sure Start 80 tpi needle valve assembly. This could also be switched out for the Kirn Kraft 128 assembly that Texas Timers used to offer.

           


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