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Building Tips and technical articles. => 1/2 A building. => Topic started by: Tim Wescott on May 19, 2010, 02:41:24 PM
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I've got a McCoy/Testors motor, marked "No 2" and "048" on the side.
It's a car motor -- it has a flywheel and a gear. Inspecting the end of the crank shaft that I can see, it looks like it's threaded. I want to get rid of all that, and replace it with a prop driver etc.
Anyone have any experience with these? Either the flywheel and gear is all cast as one piece and it all needs to come off the crank together, or the flywheel is machined as a "prop driver" and the gear is the nut that holds it on. This would make it much easier to disassemble.
I'd like to know before I start wrenching on it...
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Sell the engine to a collector who will value it for what it is and buy a Babe Bee on e-Bay. Both of you will be a lot happier!
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Sell the engine to a collector who will value it for what it is and buy a Babe Bee on e-Bay. Both of you will be a lot happier!
I value it for the lousy, low quality, vice-grip-mauled piece of fertilizer that it is, and I want to put a hand-machined prop driver on it and fly a plane with it!
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Tim, i have a boat load of those, and for me they run pretty good. That flywheel and gear presses of in one piece. You can install a spring starter\flywheel from a cheep testors engine. I run 20% nitro and mostly castor oil fuel and mine will out run a babe bee or a golden bee big time. Many of the engines i find like that have not been run much or at all and need break in. Mine like 5 1\2x3 props.
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Oh, yeah its a .049
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That flywheel and gear presses of in one piece.
To clarify:
In spite of the fact that the crankshaft is threaded, I can expect the flywheel/gear to not be threaded, and to come off in one piece (hopefully nicely) if I talk to it correctly with the right tool.
Is that correct?
Come to think of it, while I saw threads on the crank, I didn't see threads on the gear.
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Tim, thats correct as far as the two or three that i have removed. I wouldnt use a hammer though, it mite crack the crank.
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I'm going to use a puller, I'm just trying to decide whether to try to buy one that small, make one quickly for just that engine, or make a general-purpose 1/2" to 1-1/2" wheel puller.
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If your not using the fly wheel again just pull it off with a pair of vice grips, I've done it before.
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If your not using the fly wheel again just pull it off with a pair of vice grips, I've done it before.
After promising to use a puller, and trying to use a puller, I used a punch. It came out fine with no damage.
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After promising to use a puller, and trying to use a puller, I used a punch. It came out fine with no damage.
Good stuff, when putting the new one on I just pressed it on with my hands the best I could then put a prop on and tightened it on.
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FYI- when the needle breaks ( and they often do) the spray bar and needle valve from the COX product engine i.e. postage stamp size - red backplate can be pressed in. I did 2 this way about 20 years ago, they seemed to run better than with the stock Testors needle.
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It's not necessarily a lousy low quality engine. A Baby Bee thrust plate will also fit on it and you now have a light weight FRV sport engine that can easily be adapted to a large variety of tank and mounting configurations. Some of these engines will out pull a two port SPI Baby Bee. They also run pretty good on a machined out Testor/Wen-Mac glow head w/ a std. short plug. Often there are compression problems related to certain versions of glow heads and aluminum head gaskets. Switch to ald style copper head gaskets and old Wen Mac heads.