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Building Tips and technical articles. => 1/2 A building. => Topic started by: kevin king on December 08, 2020, 02:49:43 PM
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Gentlemen. I thought I would share the building, finishing and eventual flying of my 1/2a Tee Dee 049 powered Tsunami build with you. Hope you enjoy it. Will post more soon.
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I am looking forward to it Kevin
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Me tue!!!
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Awesome, bring it on!!!
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Stunt, racer, scale? Size? We want all the details, of course. And are rooting for you. #^
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Here it is in raw wood. Simple and fast build. So fast I didnt get any pictures.
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It has the shapes. More wing and tail than would be scale, I think.
Do you have a particular purpose in mind for it?
I used to prefer the red painted version with the elaborate wave in the tail, but the earlier silver and blue paint jobs have been growing on me.
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Hi PerttiMe. Its mainly for stunting and loosely based on Dick Sarpolous's Akro. I wanted a design that I knew was a great flier, and ya, I was tempted to make the wing closer to scale, but decided not to take the chance. From the pilots view it's mostly the fuse shape that you see anyway. Both Tsunami's silver paint scheme and the red are nice, but this one's going to be the red version.
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Make sure you post videos of you painting the wave on the tail...
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Lookin' good!
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Make sure you post videos of you painting the wave on the tail...
That might be easiest with graphics made on a computer and printed as decals.
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Kevin,
You can order your own Christmas gift here...
http://www.valleyofspeedapparel.com/pylon-legend-shirts/race-18-tsunami
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😁 NICE! Thanks for the tip wwwarbird!
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Adjustable lead out guide detail.
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Elevator / push rod and horn detail. 1/16" elevator joiner wire sandwiched between 1/32" plywood.
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Kevin, what size wood did you use for the stab/elevator and what size pin hinges did you use?
Thanks.
Bruce
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Bruce, 3/32" stab & elevator and small Dubro hinges.
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Make sure you post videos of you painting the wave on the tail...
I will George.
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Of coarse Tsunami had to have a spinner. In this case it had to be a 1 and a half inch one. Can't remember seeing a 1/2a model with a spinner this big. So to fit the Tee Dee I had Paul Gibeault make a bushing for this one. At 20,000 rpm even a hole slightly off center could be a problem.
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Thanks Paul!
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Side view.
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Here's some good stuff...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWhGkjFkrCQ
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Oh.... What size is the model?
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Hi Wayne, I think I've found almost all there is on the web for Tsunami. Skip Holm had a great story. He was flying Tsunami and the engine quit. So he radioed JR and calmly told him about it and asked
him where he would like him to land it. 😁 If I'm not mistaken he was going to land it on the freeway. But then the engine started and he told him Never mind.
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Oh.... What size is the model?
It has a 25.75" wingspan.
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Here's some good stuff...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWhGkjFkrCQ
I just love the air racers.
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How much of an original Mustang is left if any? Or is it all scratch built?
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@ Larry. Mustang? If you mean Tsunami, it was totally wrecked, but is currently being rebuilt. Tsunami was built from scratch. https://flightexpo.org/the-tsunami-project
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If you check on Ebay you can find Cox spinners available in the1-1/2" diameter in a few different colors. I've been searching for one in1-1/4" and it's been a little harder and the ones I did find are only available in black, White, and yellow and wouldn't you know it, I'd like it to be red.
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More Pictures . http://www.aerialvisuals.ca/AirframeDossier.php?Serial=193618
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Tsunami was really the smallest airframe they could scratch build around a Merlin engine and a pilot.
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If you check on Ebay you can find Cox spinners available in the1-1/2" diameter in a few different colors. I've been searching for one in1-1/4" and it's been a little harder and the ones I did find are only available in black, White, and yellow and wouldn't you know it, I'd like it to be red.
You could always just paint it red.
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Delton, try this. https://brodak.com/brodak-1-1-4-spinner-with-2-holes.html. Or I recently found this, which is the place I also seen the 75th anniversary fox 35. https://www.mecoa.biz/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=82 Kevin.
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Lil Tsunami's catastrophic engine failure: I buy all my 1/2a engines from Paul Gibeault. This engine was going to go in the Lil Tsunami, but that was not to be. In Paul's words here's what happened: "Well as you recall I had one surplus TD that I was willing to let go of and I made a deal with you to buy it. Almost ANY used engine from me MUST undergo an Inspection & Test Run to my personal standards before I am willing to sell it. That allows me a 99%+ customer satisfaction rating. So that initial engine looked perfect up until the test run. During the test run, it was noted to putting out superior power than normal. As I was admiring such excellent RPM's,(something between 22 - 23,000) the engine suddenly stopped! Upon further inspection I noted the con rod had snapped in half & punched it's way right through the crankcase! This of course essentially trashed the engine which is why you ended up with the last personal TD which I owned (which is also a thoroughbred) powerful engine. I know where cheap replacement parts are if I ever want to re-build it, but have no plans to do so at the moment.
And now you know the rest of the story..."
Cheers,
Paul
p.s. I've blown up A LOT of .049's in my time, but have NEVER seen a con rod snap in the middle like this one did!"
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Ahhh, a little JB Weld and all will be fine. LL~ LL~ LL~
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When I was a motor head back in the 70's and 80's the saying was ,, They always run best just before they are ready to blow-up..
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My saying is "Your planes the right weight just before the first coat of dope goes on".
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Adjustable tank and engine detail. I'm not sure if I like the feed tube coming out the top. I will fill through the top and cap off the top. Hopefully it works.
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Would have liked to use an aluminum Fox 1/2bellcrank, but the hole for the pushrod is to far away from the pivot point, and there was alot of slop in the bushing. Not really ideal for stunt. Settled for the Cheap looking plastic one.
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I have used Sig 3" b/crank on a lot of my half A models and they work fine, I use the p/rod hole next to the bell crank pivot post so I don't have a lot of throw. See what you can do with this, you can also use the same crank with the 2 1/2" line spacing, hope that this helps.. Merry CHRISTmas... D>K
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Thanks for the tip Bootlegger. I may try the 3" bell crank. Merry Christmas to you as well & a happy new year.
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The Sig 3-incher seems awfully bulky for a svelte 1/2 ship, heavy too.
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Kevin pm me about the 3” bellcrank.
I think I have the solution for you.
I can make you one out of 1/16” phenolic using router templates I already have.
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I was asked if I had plans for Lil Tsunami. No I don't But if it proves to be a good airplane I will share the templates so anyone can easily knock one out. Kevin King.
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Time for paint! S?P After the 3 coats of clear were brushed on and sanded I skipped the filler coats and went straight to the color coats. Joe Adamusko suggested the base coat color to be a light grey. So I sprayed on a coat of Polar Grey but found it to be to dark. So I sanded it off, added white to the paint and resprayed it.
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Kevin, I’d be curious to know what tools/techniques you used to cut the stab hinge slots. Thanks.
Bruce
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Kevin pm me about the 3” bellcrank.
I think I have the solution for you.
I can make you one out of 1/16” phenolic using router templates I already have.
Thank you Robert. Much obliged.
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Kevin, I’d be curious to know what tools/techniques you used to cut the stab hinge slots. Thanks.
Bruce
Bruce, I first taped the elevators to the stab and then marked the hinge locations. Then I took an Xacto knife with a #11 blade and slotted them. For cleaning them up I use a broken piece of what looks like an old coping saw blade. The one with the green tape is to coarse for slotting small hinge pockets. I also have the Dubro hinge slotting tool. The ones I use most are the forked one and the one with a small hook at the end. 2nd picture is tool used to sand in the hinge pocket. https://www.dubro.com/products/kwik-hinge-slotter I think Robert Whitley has a video on an even slicker method for doing hinges. Kevin.
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I'm trying to get the graphics as close to the scale ones as possible. Or as much as my patients allow. The 18 takes 2 stencils. One for the white 18, and one for the black shadow. Need to paint 4 of them. Then outline the numbers with ink and add red to the center of the 8's.
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Tsunami Logo. Sprayed the black then the white over the black. For something that small, it's just easier to do it that way.
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Masked the 18 then sprayed the lower part of the wave a medium blue.
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So..... seems like the plane should be in red before all of this detail work? ???
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Hi wwwarbird. The idea is to spray the red around
all the details. So the red is pretty much the last color. That helps keep the weight of the finish down, otherwise you will have the red under all the graphics where you don't need it. It also would take more clear around the graphics to blend it in. Ultimately what you are after is one layer of color paint. Kevin.
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That looked to be the direction but wow, a LOT of extra work for a practically incalculable weight savings on a little 1/2A bugger. To each his own. ;D
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Green part of the wave shot...
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Dark blue shot. Try to visualise what the mask for the dark blue looked like.
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Masked the 18's then sprayed the light blue on the wing tips. The 18's should pop after outline them in black ink.
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Candy apple blue then silver metal flake for the canopy. Some how my Candy purple went missing. That's what I would normally use.
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Dark blue shot
I am guessing you are using masks for the wave??
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Hi George, yes, as much as possible, I am using masks. One of my goals was to get more familiar with my vinyl cutter. This is the inner mask I used to cover the lower part of the wave when I shot the green. And the parts I use to cover the 18's.
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Black stripes done.
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Also made a holding fixture for painting. 2x 1/8" steel rods copper wire wrapped and soldered with a 4-40 bolt soldered to one end and the other end sunk into a block of wood. The bolt holds the plane by the bellcrank hole and a small vice holds the block of wood. Also sprayed the 'Natural metal' exhaust panel silver.
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Tsunami masked and ready for red. https://youtu.be/44Rith0YsWY
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Looking really good but still seems like the long way around. :)
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Red shot. https://youtu.be/i9yFbxQFqys
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Tsunami unmasked.
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I noticed little or no balled under the edges of the mask, and I expected some given the bit of wood grain showing. How did you manage that? Did you seal the mask edges before shooting the color? Looks great!
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Bruce, I kept the spray gun 7" away from the surface on the first coat, or sprayed it relatively 'dry'. That pretty much eliminates any bleed through and the need for sealing the edges of the masking tape. The biggest factor is the type of tape you use: 3m Fine Line for all tape edges.
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Warbird, even though this is just a half A, I try to subscribe to the "Half measures availed us Nothing" way of doing things.
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The most time consuming thing in this build is converting photographs to stencils.
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Most of the tsunami pics online are not high resolution photos and need to be sharpened in Window 3D Paint. There is also a free app that can be helpful here, even if you don't have a vinyl cutter. You could print off a copy of the size you want and use the rubber cement method to create a mask. Here's a picture of my 60 size Tsunami's logo turned into a stencil using this app: https://online.rapidresizer.com/photograph-to-pattern.php
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After much trial and error, I will just use this one:
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Stencil cut and applied
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Inboard Letters. https://youtu.be/uDessN8ddIc
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Same thing, except on the outboard. https://youtu.be/9UQKdaKy9JE
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Logo completed. https://youtu.be/Ss3qxytZkkU
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That is some high-precision masking.
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That is some high-precision masking.
Making a mask of this white foam won't be a picnic either 🧐
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Making a mask of this white foam won't be a picnic either 🧐
I'd been wondering about the green on the tail, now I get it.
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Making the "JRS" mask.
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https://youtu.be/2VJ_CyMQ0b0
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I'd been wondering about the green on the tail, now I get it.
👍
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For warbird. Paint on paint. Ya, for something this small it can go over the red. S?P 😁
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JRS sprayed.
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"JRS ENTERPRISES, INC." applied with letra sets. It was a real thrill trying to hold the plane, letra set sheet and popsicle stick to do these letters so close to the 90 degree angle of wing & fuse😁
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Could not find any small 1/2a exhaust stacks, so I decided to just paint them on.
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First exhaust stack mask cut and applied...then shot the black.
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One of the coolest things on Tsunami and other race planes is the canopy!
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Here I used my vinyl cutter to make my ink template. The 'natural metal' frame will be painted silver.
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Creating the METAL MASTERS logo. Scaled down for 1/2a, the letters needed to be 3mm or .118". Surprised the machine can cut this small. The issue is the center parts of the "R"s and "A"s. They don't like to comply. So decided to make them 5mm instead.
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Metal Masters logo.
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3mm or .118" is almost small enough to replace the 15 dollar letra set sheets. The center parts of the A's are so small you would have trouble placing them on the model, even too small for the tip of an Xacto blade to place them
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Mask #2 of the exhaust detail.
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5mm "Metal Masters'' mask. A bit easier to work with. I find detailing small airplanes is alot harder to do than the the large ones. Also got the 2nd part of the exhaust stacks sprayed.
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Cell phone is n one hand, airbrush in the other. 😆Actually what happend was my airbrush fell and pushed the needle through the tip. That's why it's not spraying right. I need better lighting. https://youtu.be/hR_sKaBvRYY
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Tsunami unmasked.
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Alot a work😁 But that's ok.
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Your hard work is being heavily appreciated by all of us!!
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Thanks Dane. I'm planning on building a 46 size Tsunami in the near future, and that's part of the reason for building this 1/2a. It should go alot faster now that I have all these graphics in a digital format.
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Alot a work😁 But that's ok.
Part of the fun! y1
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This is a magnificent effort. But on a profile model? Couldn’t you at least have sprung for a Pinto kit? Heck, I would spring for one for you if I knew you would do this kind of job on it!
I am in awe of the paint job. Will you actually fly it?
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Yes Larry, I will fly it, 5 months from now. The snow should be gone by then.
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Speaking of flying, I could use some help calculating where the CG should be, and the lead out position.
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Speaking of flying, I could use some help calculating where the CG should be, and the lead out position.
I'll bet it will be safely heavy on the nose for initial flights. As far as initial leadout position, just hang it by them and adjust for a very slight "nose out" setting. From there, add fuel, go fly. y1
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Thank you warbird.👍
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Making the stencil for the white part of the wave. Again I used the app to convert it, then Windows Paint 3D to further fine tune it. I'm sure there's an easier way but this seems to be working.
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Tsunami is coming out great, a very nice representation. How about one of John's earlier racers next, the "Tipsy Miss" P-63... S?P
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Warbird, Thanks for the cool photos. I think John also owned a P-51 called Precious Metal.
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Mark Mc's awesome Sea Fury. It would be nice to have a small fleet of Reno air racers. 😁
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Warbird, Thanks for the cool photos. I think John also owned a P-51 called Precious Metal.
John had a highly polished Mustang known as "Platinum Plus" and/or "Race 28". It was later sold to Ron Fagen of Granite Falls, MN and has since been known as "Sweet Revenge". Ron eventually put the wing back to stock configuration, eliminating the clipped wing race modification. It still sports the dark smoke canopy, a neat and obvious reminder for us fans of the Race 28 history. It gets flown quite regularly out of Ron's "Fagen Fighters" Museum (one of the best museums in the country) also in Granite Falls, MN.
http://www.fagenfighterswwiimuseum.org/
The old "Precious Metal" P-51 was a different airplane. I forget the original long time owners name (Gary Levitz?) but it's been a racer for many years. It was most recently flown by Thom Richard who still owns it and the "current" very highly modified version used Rolls-Royce Griffon power with contra-rotating props. The Griffon engine and contra-rotating prop (major) conversion was originally done when it was owned by the Whittington brothers, prior to Thom's ownership. The plane has been down and torn apart for quite some time now after catching fire on the ramp during a refueling stop on it's last journey toward Reno for the races. It's current home base is Thom's "Warbird Adventures" in Kissimmee, Florida where it is supposedly being rebuilt.
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Thanks for posting this info Wayne. With John Sandberg owning a engine rebuild shop that specialized in Merlin's he was in a great position, and I feel on the cusp of dominating the Gold class at Reno with Tsunami. It was such a tragic loss. Kevin.
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Spraying the white part of the wave. Airbrush still not working after it fell on the floor. https://youtu.be/BXnYc1YgGKY
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Trying again to spraying the white. Airbrush was just spitting paint. 😁Going to have to replace some parts. https://youtu.be/9_ULxhLBeHk
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Rare Bear on fire https://youtu.be/SsfCTDcavJY
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White part of the wave sprayed. Next will be to soften up the edges with a brush. After the ink lines are on i will spray on 1 coat of super high gloss 2 part clear, final assembly and bench trim, make up lines, balance props and its ready!
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With John Sandberg owning a engine rebuild shop that specialized in Merlin's he was in a great position, and I feel on the cusp of dominating the Gold class at Reno with Tsunami.
I agree, and especially with all the other talent involved in the program I think they would have been ready to smoke the field the next year.
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Brushed on some white and that's it for the wave.
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Ink work done. https://youtu.be/hMFPTkTyQng
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Love the vibrant paint scheme on this. Can't wait to put the clear on it 😁
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I dont know that I'd have the patience for that....
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Kevin,
Great work as usual. I am enjoying this thread.
George
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Clear done yet?
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Dang that should go in a museum after a token flight!
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Clear done yet?
Not yet warbird. I will post as soon as it's done. Maybe a couple weeks. I want to let the dope dry during that time to ensure the 2k clear doesn't cause a reaction with the dope.
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Dang that should go in a museum after a token flight!
Haha Larry. I don't know about museum. But thanks all the same
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I got some updates on the real Tsunami today. https://www.instagram.com/p/CJ3wfBfBrqB/?igshid=ufvfaoslpmsa
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I got some updates on the real Tsunami today.
Don't take the bait Kevin, it's never gonna happen, really.
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Really? I cant imagine trying to fund something like this. They need some sponsors with deep pockets.
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There's a lot more to the story Kevin, I still need to make that phone call to you sometime. The Spruce Goose will fly again before Tsunami.
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Tsunami flying again would be wonderful.
Just a static Tsunami on display somewhere would be cool too.
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Here's another example of Kevin's art.
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I’ve seen it firsthand at Prairie Fire and can attest that Windy himself would be very proud of it!
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Found a photo of the original 1/2a Tsunami built 20 years ago.
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Warbird check your pm. Dennis, thanks for the Tsunami picture. I actually built the first 1/2a Tsunami 20 years ago to help dial in the paint job for the big Tsunami, finished right after I liked the colors. History repeats itself again as I plan on building a 46 size Tsunami soon. Robert, looking forward to seeing you at the contest this year!
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Really? I cant imagine trying to fund something like this. They need some sponsors with deep pockets.
Kevin,
Here's one that will get done, currently being restored to flying condition at Aircorps Aviation in Bemidji, MN. These guys don't mess around...
http://warbirdsnews.com/warbird-restorations/thunderbird-resurrection-of-a-legendary-racing-mustang.html
https://www.aircorpsaviation.com/project/p-51c-thunderbird/
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Very cool, warbird. I'd like to visit there some time...
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Very cool, warbird. I'd like to visit there some time...
Me too, their work is incredible, second to none.
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Finally got the plane back, with a 2k polyurethane top coat. Time for final assembly!
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Great work Kevin.
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The 3D exhaust stacks on the outboard side are way cool!! Congrats.
Craig
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Tsunami out at the field.
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Engine test run. https://youtu.be/gZkGehhMUYs
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First flight https://youtu.be/bxFrcg4b7wI
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It hunted like crazy. But I'm glad it landed safely. Got some trimming to do...
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Looked as if it wanted to go straight at low speeds, on launch and landing? ???
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Looked as if it wanted to go straight at low speeds, on launch and landing? ???
I don't know. There was not alot of line tension.
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I took my time and bench trimmed it. Made alot of checks and adjustments. My hopes are it will be alot better this weekend😃
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Tsunami waiting for the 1st flight after I made all the trim adjustments, which included adding tip weight, adding nose weight, adjusting leadouts, lowering the pushrod away from the hinge line, checked and adjusted engine thrust line, added washers under the engine lugs, resoldering the fill vent, added a forward facing tube into the slipstream, leaving the bottom overflow uncapped for flights, added the spinner, put fuel tubing over the NVA, raised tank 1/8" higher, and replaced all the old fuel tubing with new ones. https://youtu.be/SYGEq0PRTmM
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First Flight of the day. Too rich. The 3rd flight things started to get really good, did loops, and wingovers, but never recorded it. https://youtu.be/lrCfVPoLEQ4
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Looking forward to getting rid of the standard wedge tank and running a bladder this summer. The engine was very hard to start and wasnt consistant. I suspect the venturi was opened up to run off a bladder. Thank you to the people on this forum that sent me the out of production fine thread NVA required to run it on bladder pressure.
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It should be fine with a good wedge tank, why not just put a stock venturi back on it?
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Thanks for the reference Motor man. I will check that venturi size.
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It should be fine with a good wedge tank, why not just put a stock venturi back on it?
Warbird, I don't have a stock venturi, plus my recollection of the last TD 049 that I ran on a bladder still puts a smile on my face. 😁
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Kevin,
Great little ship. You can get Cox TD parts from Cox International Engines (https://coxengines.ca/). Other quick fix is to cut several pieces of nylon cloth into 1/2" circles and put them over the venturi with small wire or zip tie. Start with one and add as needed to get good fuel draw. Also, would switch to a uniflow tank. I would love to see one of these with flaps like the Aussie Yardstick Flat Plate full stunter (got 4th & 8th in there NATs a few years back). Would be simple to add with a double ended flap horn - bellcrank to flaps on bottom, flaps to elevator. For hand launch ship just put controls on top of the wing like the Yardstick.
Best, DennisT
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Thanks for the suggestions Dennis. I found out the venturi is stock, and all the hard starting issues I had were with the Perfect standard tank. Anyway I'm set on running this on bladder. I made up the bladder tank housing for it today. It's an Inhaler cartridge soldered to copper strips and bolted into the existing tank holes. I wasnt concerned about the weight because the plane is tail heavy.
Kevin
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Kevin,
I like the bladder holder. I was looking for ways to mount the bladder on a 1/2A proto ship and got a lot of information from the Barton site (http://controlline.org.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=16417&postdays=0&postorder=asc&&start=0). I think for the Cox TD's with the Cox standard NVA a lower soft pressure bladder is better. There are "Pasteur Pipette Bulbs" that are similar to the old baby pacifier just a little smaller. Others have used a section of simple thin balloons. Let us know the details of the pressure system that works.
Best, DennisT
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Good to know the venturi is stock, fuel draw shouldn't really be a problem then. Is it possibly leaking air somewhere? Just a thought, like maybe a crack in the plastic venturi housing?
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@Warbird & Dennis, The "Perfect" metal tank is residing in a junk box now, so suction will never be a problem again. With the Tee Dee 049's stock NVA, the word on the street is it problematic when using a bladder, something I'm not a fan of. A fine thread NVA is a must, either a KK NVA or an Ace RC, both of which are out of production. I placed an order with Texas Timers to get all the items I need to make up pressure bladders. They should arrive shortly. I have heard of pacifers but never tried them. I am more familiar with the surgical tubing bladders. Warbird thanks for suggesting to check the plastic on the Tee Dee, there are no cracks. 😁
Kevin.
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Eons ago the first C/L model I ever built and flew was a Carl Goldberg "Lil Jumpin' Bean". I'd say about 1976-'"77, my first step up from the beat up old Cox PT-19.. The only engine the LHS had was a TD.049, the only tanks they had were the usual selection of Perfect tanks, the only fuel they had was Missle Mist, 25% nitro if I remember correctly. I mounted the Tee Dee with a Perfect wedge tank filled with Missile Mist and flew the heck out of that plane all summer long and into the Minnesota winter snow. No pressurization, just open vents on the tank. It always started and ran great, and totally hauled butt. ;D
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@ Warbird. I'm glad the Perfect fuel tank worked for you. On my tank the filler tube wasnt even solderd.
Anyway, today I started thinking about the bladder holder location. Its sitting right behind the exhaust. Thinking thats not good. It will fill up with exhaust residue. Thought about installing something to deflect the exhaust away but decided to close up the hole in the tank instead. I had this rubber bushing laying around so i installed that. After i make up some bladders I can add another bushing to further close the opening. Also thinking how to set up something to pinch the fuel line off. Maybe a line clip or a clamp between the bladder and engine.
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Kevin,
I'd love to see if you could cut flaps into the flat wing and see how it compares to the way the model flys now. I have been looking to build one of the Flat Plate stunters using the Assie designed "Yardstick" as base numbers. I have corresponded with a guy that built a GeeBee flat winger and gotten some advice on what not to do. His basic advice was keep it as light as possible and make the flaps full length and at least 20% of the wing area. The project will be around 46" span, 1/4" thick wing.
Best, DennisT
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Dennis, I'm not sure if installing flaps on a 1/2a model would be worth the extra work and weight?
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Kevin,
Flaps on a flat winger always help. Since you can always glue them back not much to lose. If your controls are on the bottom of the wing just make a double ended flap horn and connect the bellcrank to the flap horn on the bottom, then the elevator to the top end. Or put them on the top of the wing either way works.
Merry Christmas. DennisT
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Merry Christmas to you to Dennis. And if I build another Tsunami I will consider your suggestion.
Kevin
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Thanks to Fredvon4 I now have a new blinged out Tee Dee 051 in Tsunami. Check out that glow plug!
Fred, thank you!!
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😃👍 Turbo plugs too!
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Kevin,
Really nice installation of the bladder holder, could you give some details how to build it?
What replacement head did you use to allow regular plugs? Does the engine have the same power as with the HC TeeDee glow head?
Best, DennisT
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Kamtechnik made both the Nelson and Turbo adapters
https://kamtechnik.com/product-category/cox-aft/
Both add RPM vs stock High compression Cox head.. All the standard RC plug adapters usually are a net loss in RPM in my observation
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Dennis, that's just an asthma puffer container. It will only hold 11cc of fuel. Thats on the small side for a Tee Dee 051.
With the new engine, Im thinking i will need a bigger bladder container. Cardboard tube type. As long as in the case of a bladder rupture, the fuel wont go on the finish
Kevin
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Fred, thanks for the reply on the turbo plugs. I wasn't aware of these until yesterday.
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Kevin,
Would model rocket body tubes work for you? They accept while glue very well, and can be cut to length and capped easily. Balsa nosecones come in different shapes and sizes. Epoxy will seal the tube readily.
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Hi Jim ive heard of people using rocket tubes and florescent light sleeves. I found a nice one at the end of a roll of 320 grit sandpaper. Im sure the day shift guy was confused to see the sandpaper there but no tube.
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Im sure the day shift guy was confused to see the sandpaper there but no tube.
TOO FUNNY
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Lil Tsunami Fuel System Upgrade
(Or at least I hope because its not been tested yet) Added a One Way Check Valve, T-fitting and tighter fuel tubing. No need for wrapping the ends anymore, I could barely get them on. I have confidence in this upgrade. No more clamps or clips to pinch off the fuel line to deal with. I will use the Needle to open and close the fuel drip setting. What do you think? Will it work?
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Kevin, it will work but your making it very difficult by not using a pinch off. You can never remove all of the air in the bladder. You need to bleed it off prior to starting. While your idea will work, it's so easy just to open a pinch off. You also can use the pinch off to pinch the fuel line if the setting is too rich until you get your needle set. Your possibly going to flood the engine making it harder to start. In addition, the tubing your using could very well pop off of the small TD barb. At the least, you should wrap wire around it to prevent it from coming off. The fine thread needle only requires little tweaking once you have a drip set. You don't have that option by trying to use the needle. The other problem with turning that needle too much is that the black plastic sleeve wears out very fast and the needle will begin to turn on it's own. In other words, the less you move it the better off your are.
In addition, I would personally cut the needle valve down to the first step and solder a washer onto the stem to turn it. If the model flips over, the needle will bend and now your screwed. There becoming harder to source but a Cox postage stamp needle which is 128TPI will fit.
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Kenneth, what does a pinch off look like? I dont think ive seen or heard of them. or how they work.
Kevin
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Kevin, do you go to the Cox Forum? I can do so on there. I can't post pictures on here and I'm not going to try and figure it out. I can send you a picture of my simple pinch off but there's other methods as well.
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See you there and thank you.