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Building Tips and technical articles. => 1/2 A building. => Topic started by: Dan Bregar on October 13, 2014, 07:22:28 PM
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I'm almost ready to start finishing up a Baby Flite Streak, and I'm looking for some tips for a fuel proof finish. I have some "Ultracote Lite" and some "Ultracote Parklite" covering film that I was going to use on the wing. This stuff is lighter than the "normal" film covering, so I should be good there. But for the fuselage and tail I was looking for some kind of paint that is going to stand up to 25% nitro fuel, and butyrate dope is not going to do it. And I want to keep things as light as possible with the paint. Any suggestions from out there in the peanut gallery ? :)
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Dan, since you specifically asked the peanut gallery and I feel I represent that group, I have read here at Stunthangar that the Parklite is not fuel proof, so I have only used the regular Monokote. My paint is completely unsophisticated Rustoleum spray, dried for two weeks before applying equally unsophisticated Lustrekote clear. The plane weighs 7.5oz, has three years of frequent flights with 35% fuel and no sign of penetration. It's a truly badass Baby Streak with a Norvel .061.
Rusty
P.S. If you don't want to risk needing lead in the nose, Monokote on the tail feathers is a good idea. Mine are painted though, just go easy.
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Rusty
Thanks for your comment. I had no idea that the Parklite Ultracote was not fuel proof. I also have a roll of Ultracote Lite. It is a transparent yellow. Do you know if it is fuel proof. What did you finish the wood on the fuselage with before you sprayedit with Rustoleum ?
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Well, I answered my own question by looking at their web site. The Ultracote Lite transparent specs say it's fuel proof. ;D
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...What did you finish the wood on the fuselage with before you sprayedit with Rustoleum ?
Just basic 220 grit sanding and some gray Rustoleum spray primer. Sanded it down till the wood shows through the high points and then sprayed gloss red Rustoleum Automotive enamel from Lowes. I also read that the flat paints cover better and are lighter... reiterate, I read this, so I believed it. So I sprayed my Yak-9 with flat white over primer and wet sanded it which made it fairly shiny. Then the Lustrekote made it as glossy as any gloss spray ever does. And I did seem to use less paint to get good coverage.
Below is a pic of my Rustoleum Streak.
<<<--- Click my Youtube icon under my name to see both of my Streaks (BFS-I and BFS-II) fly.
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Hi Rusty
Nice looking Baby ya got there ! Thanks for your reply. I called tech support at Horizon and asked if the Parklite covering was fuel proof. The guy I was talking to wasn't sure so he asked a couple of other people who were supposed to know, and they told him it was but not to let raw fuel sit on it. Not sure what that means. But I will use Ultracote Lite Transparent for the wing cause I KNOW it is fuel proof, and go from there. Maybe I'll try your Rustoleum treatment on the fuselage. :)
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not a flight streak, but i also use the rustoleum on my 1/2A planes. let them sit for 2 weeks. nice finish rusty!
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Thanks, I especially like the tip of the rudder. Lol
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It is easy to make Rustoleum very heavy. Do all your buildup and fairing with the grey primer, and sand it till you can see the wood underneath. Then 1 coat + touch up or you risk getting too heavy on 1/2a.
My flite streak has Rustoleum and Monocote on it and flies well. I painted before covering, an painted the center sheeting to prevent long term fuel damage.
Phil
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Phil
Thanks for your input. Appreciate it. :)
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It is easy to make Rustoleum very heavy. Do all your buildup and fairing with the grey primer, and sand it till you can see the wood underneath. Then 1 coat + touch up or you risk getting too heavy on 1/2a.
My flite streak has Rustoleum and Monocote on it and flies well. I painted before covering, an painted the center sheeting to prevent long term fuel damage.
Phil
good call Phil. you're correct on a heavy rustoleum finish. i think it's heavier, but easier to use. like the monokote paint IMO is lighter. but probably just cuz it's thinned out to dry faster. it takes more sanding and filing to get an equivalent finish.
so done right, the rustoleum looks better and can be the same weight. only draw back (if you wanna call it that) is rustoleum takes longer to cure
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The nice thing about a Baby Streak is that at its size, even an over painted one, weight-wise, still falls right into the performance wheelhouse of the engines most of us use, Tee Dee .049/051 and Big mig .061. I save a little weight by using a bladder, though not for that reason. After several punishing years of repairs, my red, white and blue Streak(I call it BFS-I) weighs a little over 9 ounces and a Tee Dee .051 with a 5.25"x3" MA prop still turns fast enough to eat its tail and handles the wind better than the 7oz one(BFS-II/Norvel). The main thing to avoid is making it too tail heavy, just as a good building practice. But after repairs, BFS-I has a slug up front and still flies like a dream. So don't fret over it too much. Just make it pretty and fly it. You'll love it.
I look forward to seeing your finished product, Dan.
Rusty
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Just make it pretty and fly it.
Rusty
They have to be pretty to fly?!?
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They have to be pretty to fly?!?
No, but it helps prevent jeers from the peanut gallery during preflight.
If the weight is reasonable and the balance right these are easy to fly like you know something, regardless of the cosmetic quality. If you actually know something the BFS will do what is asked of it.
Phil
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I had one as a kid, painted yellow & blue like the box. Was too heavy with too much paint. Was very pretty though. And the Fox Rocket .09 engine was a dog. So in my old age I'm trying to redeem myself. :)
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I hope redemption is afoot.
I highly recommend a bladder with a fine thread NV(128tpi) for a plane that will dart around at high g turns like a Streak. A Tee Dee and a Big Mig .061 have the same bolt pattern. I especially recommend a starter spring for the Norvel. Are you familiar with running them like that? If not, check this out:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1863251
http://texastimers.com/accessories/needle_valves.htm
Rusty
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Rusty--I got an AP Wasp .061 for it with a custom venturi. :) Haven't figured out the fuel tank yet.
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Rusty--I got an AP Wasp .061 for it with a custom venturi. :) Haven't figured out the fuel tank yet.
Where did the custom venturi come from?
Phil
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Got a picture of it?
I'm going to be scarce over the weekend, but I'll look in in the evenings after three grueling days of flying. ;D
And Phil knows everything I know about that stuff anyway.
Rusty
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Got a picture of it?
I'm going to be scarce over the weekend, but I'll look in in the evenings after three grueling days of flying. ;D
And Phil knows everything I know about that stuff anyway.
Rusty
Now really Rusty, you have DONE so much more than I have looked up. Not that much comparison.
Enjoy the flying.
Phil
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Phil
The venturi came from a gentleman by the name of Jan Holuszko, who was making them a while back. I go two from him since I have two of these engines. They are done very well and ran good on the bench. I think I heard he no longer makes these. :)
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http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php/topic,14865.msg138089.html#msg138089
this what it looks like?
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http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php/topic,14865.msg138089.html#msg138089
this what it looks like?
Yeah, that's it exactly ! Got two of em. Only ran one so far. Hoping it will do the job on the Baby Flite Streak.
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So what's up, Dan, how's the Streak coming?
Rusty
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Hi Rusty
Well, it's covered and all put together. I'm trying to decide what to do for a fuel tank, and then I have to paint the fuselage & tail, and I guess it would be done. Oh and probably put some color trim film on the wing to try and match the color I paint the fuselage & tail. :)
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Guy's I am building a Jr F/S and it shows a 2" b/c which is too small, I am gonna go to three inch's on the B/C instead, has anyone got other suggestions?
All help/suggestions will be appreciated..
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All I've got for suggestions is, if it's a kit make sure you can get the leadouts through the rib cutouts without boogering them up too much. No problem if you're cutting your own wood. Probably want to compromise and use the outside hole of the bellcrank for the pushrod. Trim it from there with the handle and/or elevator horn. I like the Sullivan steel horns. 3" seems like it will give you more trimming options. The Streak is a twitchy one with very little control throw.
Rusty