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Building Tips and technical articles. => 1/2 A building. => Topic started by: kenneth cook on July 22, 2009, 04:57:07 PM
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I've been using Sig.008's for about 5 years now. I've had good success with these lines, but I do get crazy about them. My son shows the same kind of care as I do when it comes to these particular lines. I use the stock aluminum crimp tube that comes with the set. After a while they fray and now I can't seem to find the same or equivalent crimp tube. I never wrap my lines like most people do. I keep a close eye on the crimps fore and aft during and prior to flying. Is it possible to wrap the ends of .008 size cable. I've never tried the spiderwire or equivalents but I surely think I'm heading in that direction. Ken
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Ken, where are the lines fraying? Do you use eyelets on the ends as well as the crimps? Where have you looked for crimps?
I ask these things because I want to learn how to make bullet proof line sets as well.
I have not made up a line set in a while but when I did I used eyelets on both ends. Never had a trouble with fraying but then I didn't fly as much as you might. The eyelets I like to use are like these:
http://www.volcanoarts.biz/cart/eyelets/index.htm#1/16eyelets
Crimps can be found at larger fishing outlets. I use 1/16 OD aluminum tubing.
As to the wrapping, I don't think it is something that is something you need to do.
I think that the half A forum should have a tutorial section for things like this. DIY step by step how tos for making lines, tanks, whether they be sheet metal pacifier or balloon tanks. That sort of thing! This would make it easier for newcomers to be able to access the fine information available here.
Robert
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OK. I use .008 lines all the time. Here is what I do. I use 1/16" aluminum tubes about 3/8" long. I chamfer the inside edges of all the tubes with a new #11 blade. I slide shrink tube onto the lines before I start the line ending process (2 pieces of red on one, 2 of black on the other, all 4 about 3/4" long, if you slide on both pieces at once, you won't screw it up on the other end).
My usual setup is a bit different from the AMA recommendation, but the AMA one will work just fine, so use that. Set up the lines per the AMA instructions, then slip the heat shrink up over the crimped tube butted up against the eyelet and, while protecting the line itself from the heat (wet paper towel or fingers) shrink the plastic tube over the aluminum one. The plastic shrink tube will greatly reduce the end stress on the wire as you wind it in or out and fly. It makes a great reference for up and down too!
If you want to do my setup, it is once through the tube, around the eyelet, back through the tube. Then around the outside of the tube to the eyelet end and back toward the main line. Pull everything tight and do 2 crimps at the ends and one in the center 90 degrees off. Be sure you clip the correct piece of wire as you finish (you don't want to screw this up, trust me....)
The real keys are the chamfer on the tubes and the plastic shrink tube. They reduce the stress on the wire itself beyond belief.
For me, the limit is how many times my lines can stand getting stomped on. :-\
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Using Larry's method (and I use it) allows you to get a set of lines that are the same length. I first do one end of the lines, then anchor the eyelets to something (I use a nail on one of my garage studs). Now pull both wires at the same time and cut them to length. This method assumes that the crimping tubes are the same length. Place the two wires into one of the crimping tube so that they bottom out together and give each a slight bend. Now when you are going to place the wire back into the crimping tube from the outside, use that bend in the wire to hook onto the crimping tube. If you do that with both wires, they will end up being the same length. I have sets of flying lines that are in increments of one foot and I can change the lines without having to change the handle.
I hope this explains it.
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I do understand your method Larry. I think my problems are due to the fact that I haven't chamfered the inside of the crimp tubes. I have done this several times with .015-.018 but never with the small stuff. This would probably explain why the fraying is taking place at the end of the tube. I just found a set of Perfect 1/2 a crimp tubes. I tried to use them but the tubes were very small. My standard crimps, just wouldn't squeeze the tube enough thus the lines weren't tight. I suppose K&S tubing supplies the 1/16 tubing. Ken
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Yes, K&S 1/16" is readily available, and is indeed what I use for .008s. You can make it really soft by heating it and letting it cool slowly. This will allow superb crimps (which work-hardens the crimp areas)
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...I chamfer the inside edges of all the tubes with a new #11 blade...
Excellent! Thanks Larry, I never thought of that. :-\ H^^
George