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Building Tips and technical articles. => 1/2 A building. => Topic started by: kenneth cook on July 05, 2008, 10:10:50 PM
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I had this one tee dee for years. When it was new I had drilled the crankcase for pressure through the nipple on the vneturi body. Years later I tried filling that hole in the crankcase with epoxy. It worked suprisingly for a while then it just fell out. I had put a new carb body on it thinking this might seal it but no luck once again. I figured at this point why not just drill the the new body once again so that I could use this pressure. Well I can't seem to find a tubing thats quite small enough to fit it properly. I tried to wrap copper wire around it to pinch it up but the nipple just seems a bit too small. It eventually comes off. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Ken
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www.Texas Timers.com Accessories Fuel line.
Great selection of silicone tubing.
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a space snuck in there somehow, darned computer!
www.texastimers.com
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Several techniques, actually!
1. Use CA to glue it on
2. Use a sharp #11 blade to scribe rings around the nipple at several locations for traction. No need to cut deep, just sharp
3. Latex tube holds lots better than silicone
4. Take a 2x56 T nut (blind mounting nut) and turn the mounting flange down to where it forms an angled nipple. This will fit mid size silicone tube and hold it. Screw the nut onto the plastic nipple with a bit of Goop adhesive on the threads for insurance.
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This works, I do it all the time.
Use small diameter clear Neoprene tubing on the engine nipple. Connect this to a 3/32" brass tube which is telescoped into a 1/8" brass tube and soldered. This whole device is attached to the model permanently. The fuel bladder tube is then attached to the 1/8" brass tube.
This system allows faster refueling and the tube NEVER blows off the engine.
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Whoops! I misunderstood the question. You're interested in the PRESSURE nipple, not the FUEL nipple. Ho hum, the advice stands. Forget the pressure nipple and run with a bladder.
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...Well I can't seem to find a tubing thats quite small enough to fit it properly. I tried to wrap copper wire around it to pinch it up but the nipple just seems a bit too small. It eventually comes off. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Ken
Wrap the copper wire directly on the nipple, then slide the tubing over that.
George
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Even though it's too late as you have already opened that timed pressure hole in the crank. The best advise is never to use it. It is funky on the nva and erratic runs are the norm. Good advise has been given on using a bladder. If you insist on using a pressure tank the it is better to go through the backplate with a pressure fitting. You need no more then about .006 for your pressure hole. Kirn Kraft had a nice unit and you might find one for sale but you can also JB weld in a small brass tube and reduce the hole size down to .006 with a carboned up piece of wire and a little solder.
Dennis
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I am currently running a Tee Dee .049 with the pressure nipple, and it runs just fine, flight after flight.
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...Whoops! I misunderstood the question. You're interested in the PRESSURE nipple, not the FUEL nipple. Ho hum, the advice stands. Forget the pressure nipple and run with a bladder.
Some years ago I bought a TD .051 like yours. It has a Glow-Bee plug & adapter, a fine thread needle, and came with a pressure tapped backplate included. It also had the standard pressure tap nipple cut off. Could this be a KK? The box is a standard Cox.
George
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You have a pretty hot set up there, I'm jealous. In the event I was able to find one of the KK back plates like the one you have shown, I'd more than likely fill the crankcase hole with JB weld. I'd skip the pressure nipple and use the back plate. Those glo bee heads are truly amazing. One of our club members has a glo bee head on a mouse racer. This thing moves. He loves to get everyone flying it till they're dizzy. He is down to one last plug. These items are becoming a bit difficult to locate. I recently purchased one of the aluminum carb bodies on E-bay. Its a very well machined part for those looking to repair their cracked stock units. Ken Cook