Here are a couple of photos of a new tank I built.    

This one is 1 ounce.  The width is 1 inch, so you would get a 3/4 ounce tank in 3/4 inch, etc.

The set up is uniflo.  Sorry for the poor quality of the internal shot.  It looked OK on the camera screen.  Too late for a re-shoot.

Eric Rule is likely to make these tanks (he gave me the parts to mock this one up).  Let him know the sizes you think you would ACTUALLY buy.

The Tee Dee .049 needs about 1-1/8 ounce to fly the pattern (30% nitro).  The AP Wasp can do it on 7/8 ounce (10% nitro).  My PAW .035 only needs 3/8 ounce!

My suggestion to Eric was 3/4, 1 and 1-1/4 ounce sizes.  His regular tanks start at 2 oz, if I recall correctly. 

rsmdistribution.com  You can tell Eric to start making tanks!  He just needs to see that there is a market, and it will happen.  Money talks!

I use #2 self tap screws if I am lazy or 3x48 bolts and blind nuts if I am getting serious.  The self-tap screws tend to come un-done after time, but if you have epoxy coated the holes, they can be retitghtened and hold just fine.

I flew the tank for the first time today, and had some problems. It went horribly rich inverted.

I THINK that I bent the uniflow pipe towards the bottom of the tank while forcing the vent tube into place. (I made the exit for the uniflow too high, so it interferes).  I will disassemble the tank tomorrow and see if that is the problem.

I flew out one flight rather than risking a flame-out, and it seemed to drain all the fuel, so the basic configuration is still worth persiuing.

i just went back to look at the photo of the tube setup. The uniflo tube looks to be at least 1/8" below the center of the tank (looking from inside to out, it looks backwards from how it works) . If it got moved even farther, that would be the problem!

This is very cool to see proper venting AND good trouble shooting. THANK-YOU, Larry.

I have no idea about the market, but sure would be interested in a uniflow tank design around 10cc for a Killer Bee type layout engine for a mouse racer.
I understand there is some talk in mouse race of allowing for an external tank. This could make a lot of sense as the cox integral tank needs to be well sealed to run well. Often it's NOT well sealed which causes many problems. It would also do away with not having enough range plus could even allow for a simple shut-off for increased safety.
I previously found in testing that the cox LEFTHAND 4.5D X 4P prop (with the nubs sanded off) was the fastest prop of all. BUT, it had one flaw. When using it, the engine would run from rich to lean to overlean. In otherwords, the increased speed caused the run instability to be accentuated. So I had to revert going to other props that weren't as fast but would give a much more STABLE run throughout the tank. I often wondered IF a proper feeding tank would have cured this unstable tank run & allow me to go faster with a stable run...(AND a cheap & safer prop!)
Just a thought...

Cheers, Paul