Author Topic: Now Complete : New Plane, And First Time Using Figure 8 Hinges (Read 9479 times)

Chancey Chorney · « **on:** September 30, 2015, 06:03:55 PM »

Hi all. I just want to share a few pictures of a new plane I have built. The plans were from another member on a different site. Although I said it was going to go on my build queue, things happen and I built this thing now. Also after reading all of the posts of figure 8 hinging, I decided to give it a try. It turned out rather well in my eyes. Anyways without further ado....

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #1 on:** September 30, 2015, 06:06:18 PM »

And a couple more...

Mark Mc · « **Reply #2 on:** September 30, 2015, 06:09:26 PM »

Looking good. Nice and clean. What design is it? I, too, have been taken lately with thread hinges for my 1/2A models. My latest experiment is using 10# Spectra for the thread.

Looking forward to the finished product.

Mark

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #3 on:** September 30, 2015, 06:10:46 PM »

And lastly. Plane is a Fire Baby 2, AUW with all controls, engine, engine mount installed (minus propeller) weighs in at approximately 4 1/4 ounces. Now as mentioned elsewhere, I may try a clear Minwax product as to keep the 'wood' look to it, as I did an ok job assembling, and like the natural look. But, I may cut out a few small tissue pieces to add for looks like striping, canopy, etc.

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #4 on:** September 30, 2015, 06:13:38 PM »

I am using Raptor Braid fishing line for this. Link is here, although no longer available, or made I believe.

http://members.tripod.com/lauras_house/Fishing_Line.htm

I am using the 30lb line, .009" diameter.

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #5 on:** October 05, 2015, 08:13:41 PM »

Just a little update. It does have 2 coats of dope (unthinned) on it and drying.

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #6 on:** October 12, 2015, 07:32:07 PM »

The plane is now sanded with 400 grit and awaiting color and a final clear. I have a topic started under 'Paint And Finishing' above regarding the use of colored dope. Anyways, nothing else much has changed or happen in the picture area, so no photos have been taken.

Dane Martin · « **Reply #7 on:** October 12, 2015, 08:24:36 PM »

Outstanding looking plane. I've been using the 10# line that Mark mentioned also for sewing my hinges. I like the way a polyester sewing thread feels also. As long as it's synthetic, it will hold up to fuel for a long time.

Great looking build. Thanks for sharing

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #8 on:** October 12, 2015, 09:30:15 PM »

Thank you for the compliments.

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #9 on:** October 15, 2015, 09:30:44 PM »

Ok. Final coat of dope and color were added this evening. Now I just have to wait until Saturday evening to get my hands on a can of clear spray. I will then hopefully spray that Sunday morning. AUW till this evening is at 4 3/4 oz, that is all hardware, motor mount, engine and prop. I hope the Babe Bee will do alright. I just want a nice little relaxing flier.

Dane Martin · « **Reply #10 on:** October 15, 2015, 11:20:00 PM »

That's a really good weight. My rm95 came in at 4.6oz with a black widow. It's 95 square inches and flys really sweet. Yours should be very nice with your engine choice.

Dane Martin · « **Reply #11 on:** October 15, 2015, 11:24:39 PM »

And to go with the theme of this thread, i made this little video a while ago. These were laser cut kits, but you can see how the holes are lined up to make a drill template if anyone is looking for advice

Bootlegger · « **Reply #12 on:** October 16, 2015, 07:19:40 AM »

Dane, I sent ya' a P/M...

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #13 on:** October 16, 2015, 04:13:07 PM »

Great video Dane, thanks for posting it. I like the way you finish off the hinges.

Dane Martin · « **Reply #14 on:** October 16, 2015, 04:22:29 PM »

Thanks! I had to watch it again to remind what i did... Lol. Hopefully it shows enough of the holes that a person can see how to drill them to make that style of hinge.

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #15 on:** October 16, 2015, 05:49:12 PM »

Ok. Well back from outside yet again. I took the advice of Dennis Saydak and went out and bought a can of Minwax Polyurethane Clear today and just sprayed on a coat. I will have to let it sit and dry a bit before assembling the plane. I cannot wait to take a few pictures when it is completed. Anyways, just a little progress update.

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #16 on:** October 16, 2015, 05:50:40 PM »

Sorry to bother you again Dane, but do you recall at what size the holes were for the hinging? If not, I clearly understand. Thanks again.

Dane Martin · « **Reply #17 on:** October 16, 2015, 06:54:18 PM »

I do... Sort of... I'm on my way home and I'll check. I wanna say 1.7mm... But let me check to verify.

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #18 on:** October 16, 2015, 06:59:10 PM »

Darn Dane. I just saw your location. I miss being there. Vegas has been an April home for me for the last 5 years, and the odd September too. It is so beautiful, full of things to see and do, and I find the people there VERY friendly and helpful.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #19 on:** October 16, 2015, 07:19:31 PM »

Quote from: Dane Martin on October 16, 2015, 06:54:18 PM

I do... Sort of... I'm on my way home and I'll check. I wanna say 1.7mm... But let me check to verify.

1.7mm is a hair over 1/16 inch -- are you sure?

If I'm using nice soft wood I don't even drill holes -- I just use pliers to push the needle through. Otherwise I use something like a #60 drill.

Dane Martin · « **Reply #20 on:** October 16, 2015, 08:08:47 PM »

i have a bad memory apparently... definitely not that! It's under 1/16 but i use metric bits. I'm digging it out to check it. It's still in my pin vice

Oh, it's a 1.00

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #21 on:** October 17, 2015, 10:07:00 AM »

I am sorry, I did not mark the weight down before completing the finishing. I can now tell you the AUW ready to fly. The final AUW ready to fly is at 4.7 oz. This includes the following. Complete build using carpenters glue, epoxy for the bellcrank and control horn mounting plates, washer wingtip weight is epoxied on, aluminum engine mount with screws, Babe Bee engine with propeller and solid aluminum spinner, control rod, 2 unthinned coats of clear dope, 1 thinned coat of clear dope, 2 coats of colored dope in areas, and one full wet coat of Minwax Polyurethane ClearCoat spray paint, and wire leadouts with brass tubes on wingtip. Overall, I was and am very happy with the Minwax product, although not yet flown. The last weight given was a give or take as it was not fully assembled and included an estimate of the finish, in turn which was lower than my estimate. Here are the final pictures of it. Enjoy.

Dane Martin · « **Reply #22 on:** October 17, 2015, 10:08:32 AM »

Dude, that's bad @$$!

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #23 on:** October 17, 2015, 10:24:23 AM »

Thank you for the compliments. Now all I can do is hope it flies as good as it looks. Which will be good, I hope.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #24 on:** October 17, 2015, 02:49:08 PM »

Quote from: Dane Martin on October 17, 2015, 10:08:32 AM

Dude, that's bad @$$!

I agree. It's very good looking, particularly considering that it's just a two-tone paint job.

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #25 on:** October 18, 2015, 12:25:40 AM »

Quote from: Tim Wescott on October 17, 2015, 02:49:08 PM

I agree. It's very good looking, particularly considering that it's just a two-tone paint job.

Thank you. Without the help of people on here and elsewhere, it would have probably not been where it is.

Dennis Saydak · « **Reply #26 on:** October 18, 2015, 05:31:34 PM »

Chauncy, just a suggestion. I prefer to have a completely straight pushrod wherever possible with a rod guide to prevent bending during flight. This is especially important with larger models. You still have the opportunity to replace your pushrod before flying the model. You can also use a pushrod guide to prevent unnecessary bending (and potential loss of stable control during flight).

Congratulations on a nice build.

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #27 on:** October 18, 2015, 07:37:47 PM »

Ok, thanks Dennis. I will look at this option in a bit. I got to get some more pushrod material first. I do believe that I had started with a straight rod, but there was slight binding/rubbing issues. This may have been why I did this. Again, I will look into it and investigate why I did this, as I do normally like to keep things straight where possible, and it is quicker and easier.

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #28 on:** November 09, 2015, 09:18:31 PM »

Quote from: Ty Marcucci on November 09, 2015, 07:23:03 PM

I really admire your Fire Baby II. I have six regular balsa fuselage Fire Baby's. Also those mountains make me homesick. I miss Nevada, at least northern Nevada.

Thank you.

Mark Mc · « **Reply #29 on:** November 10, 2015, 05:57:40 PM »

Chancey, am I correct in that I see the control horn protrudes below the bottom of the fuselage? If so, I'd definitely make up a skid so that the control horn isn't getting drug along the ground when the plane lands. Landing level or nose up would cause a lot of stress on the elevator where the control horn's attached and/or the bellcrank, and something would probably give where you don't want it to.

And, with respect to Dennis, I myself prefer to have a little dogleg in my pushrods. Maybe not as much as you have, but a little so that I can fine-tune the elevator by either bending a little more or by straightening it out. I DO put a wire support midway along the span of the pushrod. My favored rod guide is a large safety pin with the head cut off. I put the pushrod through the loop on the end and epoxy or thick CA glue it to the fuselage. But that's just my own preference.

Mark

Phil Krankowski · « **Reply #30 on:** November 12, 2015, 06:38:28 AM »

Quote from: Mark Mc on November 10, 2015, 05:57:40 PM

Chancey, am I correct in that I see the control horn protrudes below the bottom of the fuselage? If so, I'd definitely make up a skid so that the control horn isn't getting drug along the ground when the plane lands. Landing level or nose up would cause a lot of stress on the elevator where the control horn's attached and/or the bellcrank, and something would probably give where you don't want it to.

And, with respect to Dennis, I myself prefer to have a little dogleg in my pushrods. Maybe not as much as you have, but a little so that I can fine-tune the elevator by either bending a little more or by straightening it out. I DO put a wire support midway along the span of the pushrod. My favored rod guide is a large safety pin with the head cut off. I put the pushrod through the loop on the end and epoxy or thick CA glue it to the fuselage. But that's just my own preference.

Mark

I am a fan of using a cut off safety pin as a push rod guide. I would keep the pictured push rod and put a guide on it about an inch in front of the large z bend.

The bend allows for adjustment by tightening or expanding the bend. On larger models a soldered slip joint or threaded rod end is used for adjustment, if necessary.

Phil

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #31 on:** November 12, 2015, 09:23:59 PM »

Thanks again. I will be installing a safety pin guide this weekend, and also looking at a possible skid as mentioned earlier. Iwas kind of thinking something simple but will see if my idea could be adapted to this airframe.