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Building Tips and technical articles. => 1/2 A building. => Topic started by: bob werle on March 25, 2013, 01:18:05 PM
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I am working on my first effort on this material with a 1/2a size model. Do you have to seal the edges and if so what do you use? I also need to know if this material is fuel proof?
Bob
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Over on the 1/2 A site there are some coroplast models by Larry Renger and some others, might give that section a shot..
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I've built a couple with no fuel issues. I've cut the LE flute in half and glued small wooed dowel for the LE, but never sealed the ends.
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Coroplast is fuel proof. I have built a CL platter with a Norvel .061. I used clear packing tape to close off the edges and as a hinge for the elevator.
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Hi Bob,
Just seal the edges with clear packing tape and you can actually cut the elevator hinge right into the coroplast by carefully opening one of the flutes (channels). I'll show you what I am referring to at the next club meeting. In the case of my ACP-12 Stop Platter I've epoxy glued in bbq skewers into the fluting at the motor mount location and spar to create a reinforced bell crank floor. Take a look at the pic accompanying this post and you might be able to see the hinge detail. This fun little 1/2 A Flyer was inspired by an old union/political sign we made at work with a 12" stop sign printed on it. The silk-screen ink isn't exactly fuel proof but with a complete taping it works perfectly fine.
Mike "Alley" Alurac
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I recently built an Man-Winn trainer, and it's hilarious, virtually indestructible and suprisingly agile, it'll do inside and outside loops, 8's but it won't hook a corner to save itself.
all I did was exactly as the plans call for, some tape across the LE and that's it.
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The edges can be sealed with some scotch tape all around the perimeter if you want.
Very light and sticks well. Most usually just seal the LE. Sealing will keep all the field dirt out of the flutes.
CA works best for gluing dowels,etc to the LE. For a tougher leading edge I have used duct tape.
I will peel off the needed length and put it onto my glass table top, then cut it down to a smaller width
than the roll size with a razor knife using a ruler guide. The edges of the duct tape can also be sealed with
CA thin so it stays put. I'll put a few drops at one end and hold the wing till it runs to the other wing tip.
I have tried several ways to make hinges. Simplest is to just cut away one side of the plastic so it
bends easy. Tape also makes a good hinge and gives better motion once a pilot gets good. I have also
used dowels into the flutes as a hinge on different designs of mine ( but this needs washers for a spacer
- I will make those also from the coro ). Cut lightening holes with a hole saw too! Then cover them with tape.
They are a lot of fun to goof around with.
y1 y1 y1
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what I am working on is a donut shape with Cox Golden Bee mounted in the center as a pusher. I hope to seal the edges w/tape and just use rattle can rustolium as a finish. I will have a couple balsa fins/line guide that will need paint.
Bob
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Pics?
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can't get picture sized to take--Will keep trying
Bob
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try again
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Cool donut! Keep us posted #^
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That is going to be very difficult to balance! When it is complete, do a "swing test" to get the basic stability established. Tie about 5 ft of string to the leadouts and swing the model around yourself. If it tracks true you are in the ballpark. If it flops around, at least the line is short enough to keep it off the ground. I always do this test with a new, weird design such as my forward swept flying wings.