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Building Tips and technical articles. => 1/2 A building. => Topic started by: rich gorrill on November 25, 2016, 11:34:22 AM
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I recently scored an older Brodak P-51 on the bay. Kit was is great shape. Our club has 1/2 A fun flys so this will be my entry. Noticed that the wing is built without any spars, top or bottom. Can I safely use monokote without warping the wing? The kit came with silkspan so this is also an option.
T I A
Rich
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No, it pulls too hard. I'll get you a list of iron on options, but ultra cote light is a great one
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Rich I do it all the time, Monokote is all I use. I never had an issue even with light wood. Never had a weight penalty issue either. Apply with iron both sides and then shrink with a heat gun.
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I would certainly trust what ken says. Perhaps it's been too long since I tried it, and my technique sucked back then! ;D
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Dane, your very correct that it will pull the frame and twist. Covering the other side before completely shrinking and evenly shrinking is key.
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Have used Monocote on 1/2 A combat airplanes since the late 1970's. (This includes Combat Kittens.) Zero issues.
I may have inadvertently covered as per Ken was explaining, from the habit of trying to keep the shrinkage/pull even as I used to do in my days of silk n' dope.
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I always use Ultra Cote light on my 1/2A's. As mentioned below - even shrinking top and bottom.
Roger
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One day I'll be able to cover as.good as yall lol
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
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Ken is correct .Attach covering to perimeter top and bottom without shrinking then shrink evenly both sides. I've even covered a Guillows "Giant Scale" (lol) Hellcat with Monokote.
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Here is my latest 1/2A covered with Monokote.
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I recently scored an older Brodak P-51 on the bay. Kit was is great shape. Our club has 1/2 A fun flys so this will be my entry. Noticed that the wing is built without any spars, top or bottom. Can I safely use monokote without warping the wing? The kit came with silkspan so this is also an option.
T I A
Rich
Sure can. Lil Satan and Lil Jumpin' Bean both have NO spars and cover with MonoKote just fine, I should say cover with excellence.
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My Baby Ringmaster came out fine and straight using Monokote. Still straight four years later.
Mark
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Try Microlite, it is about half the weight. A bit of a pain to use, as it will stick irretrievably to itself if you don't watch out!
I also love Litespan from Tower or Hobby People. Japanese tissue without needing dope and more durable.
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I use only the iron and shrink one bay at a time, starting with the innermost bay, and alternate top/bottom as I move out toward the tips. I've had good luck with that method. I prefer the iron with no sock because I can finesse it with a quick light touch better than I can with a gun.
Rusty
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Certainly you can. The best I have tried is the Horizon Hobby Parklite- That's what the little Bipe is covered with.
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/31/11/27/ck13.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19311127/127)
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/31/11/27/rb10.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19311127/128)
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Certainly you can. The best I have tried is the Horizon Hobby Parklite- Thant's what the little Bipe is covered with.
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/31/11/27/ck13.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19311127/127)
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/31/11/27/rb10.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19311127/128)
Nice. Two things of beauty!
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And Bill's cool silver flames can be applied with Windex, slid into position and will adhere just as if they'd been cooked on. The ammonia activates the M'kote glue, but it will NOT activate U'cote glue. I seal the edges with a little brush and dope or Lustrekote. Clear fingernail polish later turned white when I cleaned it with alcohol.
I don't know if Parklite has the same adhesive or not.
Rusty
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And Bill's cool silver flames can be applied with Windex, slid into position and will adhere just as if they'd been cooked on. The ammonia activates the M'kote glue, but it will NOT activate U'cote glue. I seal the edges with a little brush and dope or Lustrekote. Clear fingernail polish later turned white when I cleaned it with alcohol.
I don't know if Parklite has the same adhesive or not.
Rusty
OR, just iron down the stripes, it works great, no mess no fuss. Put in place and tack down one end ( I do the wider end ). Run your thumb across it down the piece, then iron down it. No bubbles, no wrinkles no tears LL~
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/31/11/27/br110.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19311127/129)
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/31/11/27/br210.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19311127/130)
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Hope you remembered to clean the surface before putting stripes on. Looks good and I like that kind of paint scheme. But, I'm getting lazy in my old age. H^^
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Hope you remembered to clean the surface before putting stripes on. Looks good and I like that kind of paint scheme. But, I'm getting lazy in my old age. H^^
I did Sir #^ Man, I have got some hours in this little plane !
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Bill, I had trouble ironing Monokote stripes because it takes such a high temp to kick the glue, then I got some shrinking that botched it all up. Ultracote should iron on easy though, because it's adhesion temp is way lower than the shrink temp. Maybe Parklite is the same way. The two Monokote temps overlap. Just my experience.
Rusty
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When I do graphics like stripes and numbers after cutting them out, I turn the heat on the iron down where I can hold it in my hand. Yes this is after putting them in place with the Windex and paper towels to get them rubbed down.