stunthanger.com
Building Tips and technical articles. => 1/2 A building. => Topic started by: DanielGelinas on January 10, 2013, 12:56:52 PM
-
Just started breakin in the engine at noon today before getting back to work.
After 20 minutes of flippin and sweatin, I got it to run the prime a few times.
It seems to flood easily but that's probably because I'm not used to it yet.
I must have lost 2 pounds today flippin the prop. n~
I'll try again tomorrow. Using brodaks 10-23 fuel
Would you guys use 1/2a fuel line or will the normal .35 fuel line do??
Also, do you all use fuel filters with these engines? 1/2a fuel filters??
Thanks,
-Dan
-
Dan
another reason I like electrics, sorry don't know anything about the Brodak 049, usually 049's use smaller fuel line than a 35 would, maybe there is an air leak.
John
-
Here is a link to a discussion of the Brodak motor starting issue, no answers that I see though
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1804392
-
Daniel, didn't you say in another thread that someone had recommended these engines? I would go back to them and ask questions.
-
Hi Ray,
My question was a more general question which I am sure applies to the type of engine more than the make.
Those who have big mig, mv...
I got the engine to run a few minutes ago on regular size fuel line (.15 to .46) and a regular size fuel filter.
It's a little difficult to hold a needle setting. I'm assuming this is because its not broken in yet.
Thanks,
-Daniel
-
Daniel, make sure your tank isn't too far from the engine. Should get better with more run time. My experience with the original version brodak .049 was not good, hopefully the kinks are worked out now. Good luck !
-
Our experience a few weeks ago was this on a APC 5x3 on 35% Sig fuel. Initial test was done with a Cox gray 5x3, I can say it didn't like that prop as it only yielded 15K. The APC is a much narrower bladed prop which thins out at the tips and it certainly improved rpm's on the ground. We never flew the engine so I can't say that this prop is the cat's meow. This was purely for fun and experimenting. Now I know the first thing that someone will more than likely tell me is that the instructions recommend 10% fuel. I run high nitro in all of my 1/2A's period. I feel this is a high quality engine. It wasn't designed around the parameters of seeing high rpm's like some of the competition. The crank fit was loosened slightly to assist in initially flipping the engine over. Later in the day, we were seeing 22K. Ken
-
Ken, 22k ~^ ~^!!!
That's good news!! Never thought this little engine could spin that much!
I have some 35% nitro sig fuel I'll try once its broken in a little more. I'll probably go to 15%, then 25% and finally 35%.
I've got about 2 ounces run through it and so far, 10500 max rpm. Using master airscrew 6-3 with brodak 10-11.5-11.5.
It's already starting to hold a needle better and its easier to start. #^ #^
-Daniel
-
Dan, although the engine is turning those rpm's I question on how many of those are useable rpm's or is it just beating air. I take the APC and sand the blades a bit and radius the leading edge towards the tip. I never officially measured the prop. I'm quite sure that may make the prop slightly smaller than in stock form. I use these props for 1/2A combat. Like I said, I didn't fly the plane as we were strictly going for all out rpm's we could achieve. I highly doubt it would sustain that rpm on suction for any amount of time. All in all it was a neat experiment and I would certainly like to see what could be achieved with this engine. The Master Airscrew prop your using has quite a bit of blade area and is loading the engine. Ken
-
I too wonder why guys like the high RPM and small tooth picks for props. I am treating my Brodak .049's like the big stunt engines. I run 6-3 and 6-4 props. They seem to pull better thru the loops and climbs/dives. I haven't checked RPM as I set the needle so the engine doesn't get tight while flying. Also found out as they get more run time they are easier to start. They are a different breed of animal compared to the Cox reed engines. Also found that the Cox Medallion and TeeDee run/start better when broken in a little. By the way I run the same fuel as I use in my bigger engines, 10% nitro and 22% blended oil.
-
I too wonder why guys like the high RPM and small tooth picks for props....
I can't speak for others here, but when I fly 1/2A, I like to fly balls to the wall freestyle, rather than precision stunt. Three second laps with paint peeling tight loops, and maneuvers that aren't official in any way, just making it up as I go along. That would be my reason for the 5" props and screaming RPMs. About 4 minures of controlled panic will get your circulation going.
And then there's combat, which requires pushing the little engines to astounding speeds, sometimes with even smaller props.
-
I can't speak for others here, but when I fly 1/2A, I like to fly balls to the wall freestyle, rather than precision stunt. Three second laps with paint peeling tight loops, and maneuvers that aren't official in any way, just making it up as I go along. That would be my reason for the 5" props and screaming RPMs. About 4 minures of controlled panic will get your circulation going.
And then there's combat, which requires pushing the little engines to astounding speeds, sometimes with even smaller props.
I couldn't agree more!
Jim
-
I couldn't agree more!
Jim
Haha, we might be out of our element here, Jim. I bet they'd like to see your Yaking Clown fly.
Rusty
-
Haha, we might be out of our element here, Jim. I bet they'd like to see your Yaking Clown fly.
Rusty
Just posted video on the Yaking Clown build thread.