Well, we got the fuselage closed up tonight...

 First a piece was made from 1/16" balsa to reach from the firewall all the way to the tail. The proper shape was determined by simply pressing the sheet against the bottom of the fuselage and then tracing the fuselage sides. After cutting the outline it was sanded for a perfect fit all around. Then I marked a centerline across the wing chord and cut a slit in it from front to rear to "relieve" the piece over the wing dihedral area during attachment. In the one close-up photo the slit can just be seen, running between the two red Sharpie dots.
 
 Then it got tricky. I discovered it was going to take about eight hands to hold pressure everywhere that would be necessary during the attachment because of the varying contours from front to rear. I don't have eight hands so I ended up gluing just the front section down first, from across the wing L/E to the firewall. I used 5 minute epoxy, and held it for ten minutes.
 
 Next, I taped off the wing root line on the wing surface and then dribbled CA all down the inside of the fuselage sheet from the wing T/E forward. I taped the wing root off first so that the CA wouldn't ooze into that area as I squeezed the sheet down during attachment. It took all eight fingers and both thumbs.
 
 Finally, I got out the Titebond and attached the rear section. I used Titebond for that step because again I couldn't hold down it everywhere it needed to be at the same time. I could have probably pinned it but it took quite a bit of pressure to get it to lay down well, and I didn't really want to pepper the thing with pinholes either. I ended up pulling it down tight with blue tape, Ace bandage style, working my way from the wing T/E to the tail.

 Boy, that was easy!

The boys in my hood bought real hollow logs for $1.49, Testors glue for 20 cents and paint for 15 cents a bottle.
The build was about two days.
The useful life might be more or less than the build time.
Stunt Masters at $1.95 were kids' toys.

The boys in my hood bought real hollow logs for $1.49, Testors glue for 20 cents and paint for 15 cents a bottle.
The build was about two days.
The useful life might be more or less than the build time.
Stunt Masters at $1.95 were kids' toys.

I had the Scientific ME-109.  Sheet aluminum cowl.  We flew it inside a large shed which was mostly open on the 4 sides.  Made a couple of flights in a day then I don't remember whatever happened to it.

Monokote? What's that?

Ultracote? Haha!
Looking good Wayne

 Doh, I almost forgot to put the tip weight in!

 Got that done last night. First I marked and "routed" a recess into the bottom of the wing with the Dremel and a small bit. I did that so the kit supplied tip weight washer would end up fitting more flush to the wing surface when finished. Then I sanded each side of the washer for a better glue grip, filled the recess with 30 minute epoxy, and then set the washer into the wing, "burying" it...

 

I just spoke to the fellow in Canada who is suppose to make our kits, maybe by Fall.  Question:  If this kit was back in production, would you want one.  We offered it with or without an engine but I do not think that an engine will be included in the new kits.  The list price was $66.00 the kit was all laser cut.  Sowhat do you think?

Larry

I would certainly buy one!

 Just finished the first bit of color. Yellow never covers well at all so those areas were shot with white first. As soon as the white was done I went right from that to spraying the yellow over it. Next will be masking off those areas and shooting the fuselage with Miami Blue. 

 ...and unwrapped.

Wayne it surely is lookin good!

 ...and the result. 

Truly nice...and in your good meticulious fashion. Sorry I won't be able to come to the building sessions. Gigs and moving daughter to Chicago.
Those kids will have some good planes to fly.
But not as good looking as yours.
Shug

This is a lot of work for a little 1/2A.  It looks really great right now.   

 I've been slacking on the updates here, but I do finally have all of the graphics applied to the PT.

 Well planned and laid out graphics make a BIG difference in the final result, no matter the size of the model. After carefully determining desired sizes of all insignias, lettering and numbers etc., here are some tricks that I typically use for accurate placement and alignment of graphics.

 Preparing to add the U.S. Star insignias I figured I wanted them 1/2" back from the wing L/E. The first step then was to add a 1/2" wide strip of tape along the wing L/E to use as a reference and "set" the L/E to T/E spacing. Then I measured out from the fuselage sides and put a small Sharpie mark on the tape where the top center of the star needed to be, duplicating the same measurement and mark for each side, on both the top and bottom of the wings...

 With graphics you typically get ONE shot at proper application and placement. Taking a little extra time to plan, measure and line things up makes it a lot easier to get it all "right" and makes all the difference in the final result.

I guess this is not a true trainer, as there is more work in it than I would have done.   It does look awesome though.

 Thanks Doc, but it is still just a basic sheet wing trainer. Paying attention to details while building does make a difference in how the small models perform and appear or "present" too though. Along with trying to offer some tips these are also thoughts and ideas I'm trying to point out or remind people of with this thread.
 
 With the little PT here I've just been having some extra fun, practicing and testing some techniques with the build. Every once in a while I find it fun to take a break from the 'big" models and build a simple, small model. Part of that fun is trying to turn out a nice example of a model that most normally assume is just a "crappy" little plane. That doesn't always have to be the case though, the way I see it the smaller planes deserve a little extra time and a good finish too, it can be just as satisfying as doing the same with a "big" plane.

 Anyway, as of a few nights ago the final clear is on, just gotta get a chance now to do the final assembly.