Author Topic: BHM 1/2A auto gyro (Read 30984 times)

frank carlisle · « **Reply #50 on:** December 30, 2006, 05:30:45 PM »

Two things...........

First thing--drilling holes. I love drilling holes.
Second thing--take a basic model design even a kid could build and turn it into a difficult, time consuming, tedious project. I love to do that too.

frank carlisle · « **Reply #51 on:** December 30, 2006, 06:53:05 PM »

Ahhh...............I'm back again!!

I stuck the rotor blades on the hub (perfectly straight

) and then I couldn't resist pinning the whole shebang together and posting more pix.

I like it so far.......................and now I've done enuff modeling for the day.

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #52 on:** December 30, 2006, 10:42:53 PM »

Lookin' real good, Frank. How light a fuselage did you wind up with? I've got mine down to about 1/2 oz., hope to get it a little lower yet. (Admittedly, without the hardwood motor mount beams.)

And, I don't see any holes in that firewall for engine bolts/blind nuts. Are you going to use wood screws?

Ah, I think I see...the REAL firewall will go on over that?

And what is the clear plastic visible in the 1st pic of the 2nd posting?

--Ray

frank carlisle · « **Reply #53 on:** December 30, 2006, 11:53:32 PM »

Quote from: minnesotamodeler on December 30, 2006, 10:42:53 PM

Lookin' real good, Frank. How light a fuselage did you wind up with? I've got mine down to about 1/2 oz., hope to get it a little lower yet. (Admittedly, without the hardwood motor mount beams.)

And, I don't see any holes in that firewall for engine bolts/blind nuts. Are you going to use wood screws?

Ah, I think I see...the REAL firewall will go on over that?

And what is the clear plastic visible in the 1st pic of the 2nd posting?

--Ray

You're good Ray.......

Yes I'm going to use wood screws and yes the real firewall goes over that.
The clear plastic is a piece of packing tape to hold the landing gear on for the picture.
With the "real" firewall but no gear wire the fuselage weighs about 3/4 to 7/8 of an ounce. I'm using a cheap cooking scale so probably it weighs different in your shop than mine.
I got to see about 15 different Musciano/Black Hawk models fly last year at the Kalamazoo contest, they really do go. And they are quite sturdy. If I was going to learn a youngster how to build and fly I'd be sure to let him cut his teeth on a few of these models.

I'll be watching for pix of yours. And where are the other guys?

frank carlisle · « **Reply #54 on:** December 31, 2006, 08:15:23 AM »

I'm ba-aack.................................

This morning I set lugs onto the firewall to use as screw anchors to hold the cowling on. #^So far it looks like it will work just fine.

I like to get these little things done before I actually assemble the model. It's much easier.

I'll glue the firewall to the model next and then set it all aside till next year.

The lines I've been flying my Bi-Slob on are all gnarled up so I'm going to cut a new set and patch up the Slob's wing in preparation for a sortie in Flint tomorrow.

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #55 on:** December 31, 2006, 10:41:28 PM »

Very nice...I'm sanding the front of my fuselage to a round section to match the cowl. Trying to decide if I want an upright engine or inverted, or sidewinder for that matter...guess it's too late for sidewinder, come to think of it, since I already have the beams cut into the fuselage inboard-and-outboard.

Boy, the plans don't give you much direction on the length/location of the wing braces, do they?

--Ray

LARRY RICE · « **Reply #56 on:** December 31, 2006, 10:55:57 PM »

The wing braces should be 4" long.
Larry

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #57 on:** January 01, 2007, 06:33:35 AM »

Thanks, Larry.

frank carlisle · « **Reply #58 on:** January 01, 2007, 07:11:21 AM »

Quote from: minnesotamodeler on December 31, 2006, 10:41:28 PM

Very nice...I'm sanding the front of my fuselage to a round section to match the cowl. Trying to decide if I want an upright engine or inverted, or sidewinder for that matter...guess it's too late for sidewinder, come to think of it, since I already have the beams cut into the fuselage inboard-and-outboard.

Boy, the plans don't give you much direction on the length/location of the wing braces, do they?

--Ray

I'd like to see the motor amount arrangement Ray. One thing I'm curious about is the method you used to get the motor mount beams in there. Can you show a picture?
I got all the motor mount holes in the wrong place on my model. I'm going to have to drill out the holes to dowel rod size and plug 'em and start over.
I also have concerns about the rotor assembly. I have a set put together but it looks wrong.

If you are shaping the nose to match the cowl, did you add wood to the sides and bottom of the fuselage?

LARRY RICE · « **Reply #59 on:** January 01, 2007, 10:46:40 AM »

OK Guys! We gave one of our test kits to a 12 year old, he finished it in a little over 3 hours (minus the rotor). Maybe it was because he has built my kits before or maybe he followed directions and just assembled it.

I worry when you, Frank, said that you assembled the rotor with the blades straight.......I hope that you tilted them as shown on the plan. $:-\$
Ok! I will leave you guys alone to your own devices......Good Luck!
Larry

frank carlisle · « **Reply #60 on:** January 01, 2007, 12:38:26 PM »

Quote from: LARRY RICE on January 01, 2007, 10:46:40 AM

OK Guys! We gave one of our test kits to a 12 year old, he finished it in a little over 3 hours (minus the rotor). Maybe it was because he has built my kits before or maybe he followed directions and just assembled it.
I worry when you, Frank, said that you assembled the rotor with the blades straight.......I hope that you tilted them as shown on the plan. $:-\$
Ok! I will leave you guys alone to your own devices......Good Luck!
Larry

Obviously the kid had no clear understanding of the delicate balance between design parameters and aerodynamic function when coupled with real time attributes and performance demands. And he most certainly must have gotten the model for free because a three hour build in no way brings any entertainment returns on a thirty dollar plus investment on the kit.
I demnd to see photographs of the finished product. And video tape of the model in actual field test operations.

frank carlisle · « **Reply #61 on:** January 01, 2007, 04:31:23 PM »

Larry I do hope you realize that my last post was typed with tongue planted firmly in cheek. It was meant to be funny.

However....................to the rotor. In the picture below there are two sets of rotors. The one on the left was assembled according to plan. The one on the right was assembled according to my second thoughts.
Please note that on rotor #2 the rotor blades are making contact with the hub which should make for a stronger glue joint. What do you guys think?

LARRY RICE · « **Reply #62 on:** January 01, 2007, 06:16:36 PM »

I know, Frank, I was just kidding too. As to your rotor mod. I think that I will follow Mark Twains advice and keep my moth shut. It is interesting and I do agree that I did not like the blade attachment but.......oh! D--- so much for not saying anything.

frank carlisle · « **Reply #63 on:** January 01, 2007, 08:01:19 PM »

Larry, about 80% of modeling is in the building for me.
As the marketer of these kits it must be a little irksome to see guys make a big to-do over the design of the model rather than just put it together and fly it.

As to the rotor mod.........i'm not done yet! This is a cool design with lots of potential. If we keep in mind that all of the models in your line up are targeted toward youngsters who are just learning and as such should not be too complicated or challenging then your kits meet all of the requirements to achieve that goal. And they re great.

However if you put that same kit into the hands of someone with tools and modeling experience you will find that they can not help but start questioning the original design and then begin to make changes that they think will enhance the model.

As I've said many times before. Give me anything and after I've done it a half dozen times I'll have something completely different.

I have 4 sets of rotors---given a couple more days I'm sure I can develop a rotor that is totally different and hopefully better than what was originally supplied with the stock kit. Now that is not to say that the kit in stock configuration is inadequate, only that some modelers just can't leave well enough alone and turn what is simple and straight forward into a more complicated project.

frank carlisle · « **Reply #64 on:** January 01, 2007, 09:16:15 PM »

here's a picture...........

LARRY RICE · « **Reply #65 on:** January 01, 2007, 11:20:45 PM »

Frank,
I agree with all you have said and I have always said that is what modeling is all about. I hope that everyone who builds says either "I can improve on that" or "I can make a better model" and they go on to cutting wood.
Rock on, Frank!
Larry

frank carlisle · « **Reply #66 on:** January 02, 2007, 11:24:44 AM »

GOOD LARRY.

Now to the rotor. I think the one on the right will do just fine with two more slightly larger discs top and bottom to hold the blades firmly. I'll just pop down into the basement and cut them out now. Picture and another post in a few minutes.

frank carlisle · « **Reply #67 on:** January 02, 2007, 12:03:38 PM »

O.K. I got the two discs cut and put them on the rotor..............I do believe that ya'll will have to agree that this is definitely an improvement that will add stability to the rotor. At least I think so.
You're comments are invited.

Picture one--the two larger discs I cut out. I traced the original disc with a Sharpie medium felt tip pen and then cut the disc on a scroll saw. Not as nice and round as the laser cut disc in the kit.......but hey.

Picture two--the two new discs are now added to the rotor hub assembly.

Picture 3--a side view......you could assemble the hub first and then insert the rotor blades and turn them to touch top and bottom on the discs thereby getting an accurate pitch to all three blades.

Picture 4--the stock kit rotor assembly shown next to my assembly.

Where are you Ray?

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #68 on:** January 02, 2007, 02:39:34 PM »

I'm here, Frank...had a few little distractions, my son's burst appendix and resulting peritonitis, etc.; putting together a couple more kits; cleaning a place on my workbench for my new belt/disc sander; and mostly my inherent laziness. But here I am.

You're a little ahead of me. I do approve of your "improved rotor" hub assembly, I'll probably copy it. I was going to ask if you were planning to round off the LE/TE of the rotors, or leave them square, but your pics answered that question. I'm thinking of rounding mine kinda like I did the wing airfoil--you can see it in one of the pics below.

My "hogging out" of the fuselage ended up with a 1/2 oz. weight, I couldn't do any better than that. With the beams (see pics) and firewall included, it's probably closer to 1 oz. Oh well. I think I'll go with a balloon tank which should help the weight a little.

Tail pic shows sewn hinges, my favorite kind.

OK--on to the pictures:

Oh, notice also I "hogged out" the cockpit a little as well--and decided not to use the little hardwood post pilot, too heavy. I may carve a little styrofoam guy to glue in there, or just skip it altogether.

frank carlisle · « **Reply #69 on:** January 02, 2007, 03:15:49 PM »

Very nice work Ray. Those holes through the front of the fuselage for the motor beams show great craftsmanship.

Your son is going to be o.k.? He had an appendectomy?

I still plan on rounding the rotor blades. I just forgot to do it in all of the excitement.

A tutorial with pix about the sewn hinges would be a great help Ray. I'd like to try that.

Here's a caution--right now it looks like if you follow the directions for mounting the rotor to the plane the set up will end up with the rotor hitting the rudder. I'm looking at using a longer dowel rod so I can take advantage of the depth of the hole in the body.

Thanks for the pix and progress report.

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #70 on:** January 02, 2007, 05:43:26 PM »

Son had an appendectomy, yes--then 5 days of I.V.-administered antibiotics to clear up the mess. Home now, after nearly a week in hospital, doing fine, thanks.

Thanks for the heads-up re: the rotor/rudder interference. I'll check that out for sure before I glue anything!

The sewn hinges are the simplest thing in the world. Maybe I'll try to put together a pic-tutorial on the process. They make the snuggest joint and freest movement you will ever see. Lotta superlatives there but you get my point. Course you have to steal a needle and thread from your wife, I dunno how that'll go over in your house. Made a few waves here when she finally saw me using it, about a year later.

I haven't yet quite worked out the gear attachment; I'm gonna use the ply. firewall with the beams running through it for extra reinforcement, so I'll probably "sew" the gear wire to that with copper wire. Then a few of my favorite things--dowels through the ply. into the balsa--oughtta make it pretty well bulletproof.

More pics as warranted.

--Ray

frank carlisle · « **Reply #71 on:** January 02, 2007, 08:20:54 PM »

Good news about your son.............................kids eh?

I don't think there'd be a problem with my using a needle and thread around here. So I'm safe there.

Wiring the gear to the firewall seems to be your best bet. And the bladder tank will save weight. I'm curious to see what weights our different approaches will produce. Right now I'd be willing to bet that both models will come out around the same weight.

LARRY RICE · « **Reply #72 on:** January 03, 2007, 09:22:11 AM »

Frank,
In your earlier pictures the rotor appears to be well clear of the rudder. The depth of the hole should not be the determining factor in the height of the rotor shaft. Use the length of the "Rotor Pylon Fairing" and Please let me know how that comes out.
Larry

frank carlisle · « **Reply #73 on:** January 03, 2007, 09:55:24 AM »

Quote from: LARRY RICE on January 03, 2007, 09:22:11 AM

Frank,
In your earlier pictures the rotor appears to be well clear of the rudder. The depth of the hole should not be the determining factor in the height of the rotor shaft. Use the length of the "Rotor Pylon Fairing" and Please let me know how that comes out.
Larry

I never even tried the "rotor pylon fairing". I got ahead of myself there. Although it seems like a good idea to put the pylon all the wat into the hole.
Right now I'm on my lunch break but after work I'll be back at the auto gyro. Great kit!! I'll be sure to get the fairing and test fit it.
Thanks for the heads up Larry.

LARRY RICE · « **Reply #74 on:** January 04, 2007, 11:56:56 AM »

This is a first run kit and we have found a problem. Someone

cut the Rotor shafts to short. They were suposed to be 2 1/2" long we are adding another 1/4" to make then 2 3/4". If you have one of the short ones I will replace it, just send me an address.
Larry

frank carlisle · « **Reply #75 on:** January 04, 2007, 03:02:34 PM »

Larry,
Me and Ray talked about the shaft and we figured 3" would give us the best glue joint.
The kit is really good. There are always bugs to work out of anything. One small problem (the shaft) ain't too shabby for a first run.

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #76 on:** January 04, 2007, 03:43:07 PM »

I agree, I'm happy with it. The 3" figure we came up with by adding the fairing length--2 3/8"--to the hole depth--5/8". Seems to take best advantage of everything.

Here's some pics of my gear mounting: inside side, outside side, mounted on plane (not yet glued, though).

--Ray

P.S. Larry, don't sweat the rotor dowel. I've got a dowel lying around here I'll cut one from, no problem.

frank carlisle · « **Reply #77 on:** January 04, 2007, 04:58:15 PM »

That's some sweet parts fitting there Ray. Did you file those square holes?
I thought I was making it more complicated but you've outdone me this time!!
Looks like you stripped a length of bell wire to get your copper thread. Right?

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #78 on:** January 05, 2007, 07:42:18 AM »

Wrong on both counts, Frank...I cut the square holes with a square drill bit. haha no really, I cut them on my jigsaw--drilled a (round) hole, threaded the blade through, reattached it to the saw, cut away everything that didn't look square.

Copper wire I bought at the local hardware store. It's labelled "sculpting, wrapping, hobbies, crafts" and is 24 ga., 100 foot roll. That oughtta keep me supplied for awhile. I forget what it cost but it wasn't much, maybe a couple bucks.

You know I live to complicate things up, no such thing as a simple project. Gotta have a challenge.

Oh, to answer an earlier question: I do intend to laminate some soft 1/8" thick balsa on the sides, and maybe bottom, of the fuselage, to blend it into the round cowling. More complications but I think it'll look better. And if it looks better it'll fly better, right?

--Ray

Richard Grogan · « **Reply #79 on:** January 06, 2007, 09:01:51 AM »

Quote from: minnesotamodeler on January 04, 2007, 03:43:07 PM

I agree, I'm happy with it. The 3" figure we came up with by adding the fairing length--2 3/8"--to the hole depth--5/8". Seems to take best advantage of everything.

Here's some pics of my gear mounting: inside side, outside side, mounted on plane (not yet glued, though).

--Ray

P.S. Larry, don't sweat the rotor dowel. I've got a dowel lying around here I'll cut one from, no problem.

Looking good Ray!

Mike Spiess · « **Reply #80 on:** January 07, 2007, 12:10:20 PM »

HEY guys I'M back from AZ. Haven't got my kit yet Frank.

LARRY RICE · « **Reply #81 on:** January 07, 2007, 12:47:02 PM »

Timing! The post office was closed on Tuesday so your order went out Wednesday and should arrive Monday. There is a follow up package of up dated parts and left out parts comming too.
Larry

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #82 on:** January 08, 2007, 11:46:13 AM »

OK, I got my autogyro mostly together, and it weighs nearly 4 oz. already--that's w/o engine, controls, finish. Also appears it will be rather noseheavy. I'm thinking about replacing the provided wheels with those ultra-light ones I used on the Queen Bee; that should help both problems a little. How are you guys doing on weight? I guess I'll also do some more serious sanding...

Frank, I borrowed your rotor hub idea: Cut the notch deeper in the blades so they contact the hub, sandwiched the hub and spacers with 1/16" ply. discs about 1/8" bigger all around. I also put 1/32" balsa spacers between the discs and rotors, so they would contact top and bottom when set at the proper angle. Then I had to replace the eyelet with a longer one to reach through all that. I'll post a pic later.

Using the 3" long dowel pylon (extending above the fuselage 2 3/8"), my rotors clear the rudder by about 1/2", none too much! Also I have one rotor blade much lighter than the other two. I tried balancing them by some judicious sanding of the 2 heavy blades, but wasn't able to get enough off without endangering the structural integrity, so finally embedded a small brad in the tip of the light one. Pretty much in balance now, I'll fine-tune it if necessary with extra coats of paint on the light rotor.

Decided to go with an inverted mount to keep the vertical CG closer to the leadout guides. And upon further review, I have concluded that there is NO WAY this little baby will achieve level inverted flight. I think loops might be an adventure, even...should be fun seeing what we can wring out of the little boogers.

--Ray

Mike Spiess · « **Reply #83 on:** January 08, 2007, 03:26:22 PM »

I justgot mine in the mail. Now I'll have to read all the posts to catch up.

frank carlisle · « **Reply #84 on:** January 08, 2007, 03:36:42 PM »

Ray,
I haven't been working on my auto-gyro for a few days so I can't give you a weight.

I'm concerned about yours being rather nose heavy which means mine will be too. What do you think about moving the wing forward? nd if you're going to be nose heavy why would you want to make the plane lighter by sanding it more? Wouldn't that aggravate the nose heavy condition?

Welcome aboard Mike. Sorry about the holiday mail delaying the delivery of your model.
We've come across some interesting things with this plane. Ray and I have both done different things with ours as far as mounting the engine and landing gear. I'll be watching to see what you do with yours. Have fun and keep us posted.

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #85 on:** January 08, 2007, 04:20:11 PM »

Yeah, well, I guess that makes sense all right, taking more weight off behind the CG won't help, will it? I'm not sure why mine is noseheavy, I set the engine back as far as it would go (see pics). I used standard LG, don't think my copper wire added that much weight; oh, the MM beams are extra weight up front so that may be part of it. And of course all the balsa I removed from the fuselage interior, mostly behind the wing. Course I'm guessing at this point, I don't have the pushrod or elev. horn on, nor any finishing mat'ls. Those things will pull it back a little. On the other hand, neither do I have the engine cowl on yet... Plans say 1/2" behind LE; mine right now balances ON the LE. Well, the lighter wheels will help.

Pics: I tried to get a good shot of the rotor hub, but could not. Limitations of the camera, or else the operator. Anyhow, here they are:

Edit: I know the pylon fairing is supposed to go in front; it will. Pylon dowel isn't yet glued in.

frank carlisle · « **Reply #86 on:** January 08, 2007, 05:07:02 PM »

very nice Ray............I could see the rotor hub detail very well.
What's the plan on finishing?

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #87 on:** January 09, 2007, 06:59:48 AM »

I have no plan; I did pick up some blue Rustoleum just in case that mood strikes me. How 'bout you?

LARRY RICE · « **Reply #88 on:** January 09, 2007, 10:03:59 AM »

On my web site you will find a link to a real auotgiro at the Henry Ford musuem (just above the pictures of the kit). That may give you some insperation on color or finish. Also note the flat sides.
Larry

LARRY RICE · « **Reply #89 on:** January 13, 2007, 08:09:16 AM »

Did you guys work out the balance of the model? As I see it there only 3 things that you can do; 1- put the weight back into the tail, 2- lighten the nose of the model, or three move the wing forward.
Ray,
You have a heavy engine, with way to much power for the model, and a heavy motor mount. If you still want to use that engine you can start by moving the tank back over the balance point, add the pilot and a little weight in the tail. another way is to remove the langing gear and move it back to the leading edge of the wing and if you need to you can then move the engine still futher aft.
Larry

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #90 on:** January 13, 2007, 09:03:12 AM »

I appreciate the suggestions, Larry. As it happens, the Brodak engine weighs around 2 oz., about the same as my Norvels, about 1/4 oz. more than my VAs and actually a little lighter than my Cox BWs. Compared with the tank-mount Coxes, the tankless engines place their mass further aft, which I hoped would compensate for the heavier motor mount. now that I have the thing completely together, and with the lighter wheels, the balance isn't so far off--maybe 1/4" behind the LE, with finishing yet to go. I think it'll be OK.

Too much power? No such thing, is there??...

--Ray

LARRY RICE · « **Reply #91 on:** January 13, 2007, 11:08:21 AM »

Thank goodness that you got the balance in OK! I had not head from anyone for a while and I wondering if the models had been thrown away. As to the heavy engine comment I meant no harm but note that the plans (as per Walt Musciano) show a OK .049B engine, low power and low weight. For general use a tankless Cox Babe Bee, Wen Mac, Testers, Atwood or other similar engine is adequate.
If the blades stay on then it is not to much power.
Good Luck
Larry

frank carlisle · « **Reply #92 on:** January 13, 2007, 02:44:03 PM »

Hey guys!! My Black Widow is too long to fit in the cowling. That brought me to a halt for while. Now my plan is to use a production Cox engine and figure a way to get a fuel tank into the fuselage. I think a balloon bladder would work but I haven't had much luck with them. Any suggestions Ray.

PLEASE NOTE!!----1,000th post!

bob branch · « **Reply #93 on:** January 13, 2007, 07:16:05 PM »

Frank

I have a Wren .049 sitting here for you if that helps any engine wise. Also a profile .049 powered P-40 with a builtup wing that I was planning on giving to you. It has a baby bee on it which is shorter than the black widow.

bob branch

frank carlisle · « **Reply #94 on:** January 13, 2007, 08:10:01 PM »

I'll take 'em Bob. And if there is anything you would like in return it is yours ( be reasonable!!).

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #95 on:** January 14, 2007, 06:37:55 AM »

Man, what a blank check...Frank, you never made that offer to me!!

If you do use the production Cox, a balloon tank is the way to go. Non-pressure, I refer to 'em as "floppy tanks" to emphasize that, a standard round party balloon will hold about 1/2 oz., plenty for that little engine. Only "trick" is to be sure you draw out all the air before you fuel--don't want any bubbles in there. I inserted a plastic container above the wing that I thread the balloon into from underneath, still working on a removable hatch to close up the access. I got my cowl all trimmed out for my engine and installed and it really looks cool. I'll get some pics on, maybe this PM.

frank carlisle · « **Reply #96 on:** January 14, 2007, 08:47:59 AM »

Ray----that blank check still needs to be signed, so I still have leeway. I would hope that letting Bob bask in my glow would be return enough.

Now the pictures of the balloon are totally excellent!! I get the picture.

Just one question here Ray. Need I be concerned as to the relationship of the "floppy tank" in regards to it's being level with the needle valve?

bob branch · « **Reply #97 on:** January 14, 2007, 09:41:16 AM »

Please pass the sun screen...

.... I'mj burning in the basking.

bob

frank carlisle · « **Reply #98 on:** January 14, 2007, 09:49:12 AM »

Quote from: bob branch on January 14, 2007, 09:41:16 AM

Please pass the sun screen...

.... I'mj burning in the basking.

bob

You sure found that one quick Bob.

I'm surprised that you have any 1/2A stuff at all. I remember that once in the last century I saw you at Rouge with a SkyRay. Whatever happened to that?

bob branch · « **Reply #99 on:** January 14, 2007, 10:12:06 AM »

Frank

That was my son's. He flew it some then lost interest. He also did a scratch build .15 plane. They were all given away before the great move 5 years ago. Along with all my other stunters, including a Saggita, a stilleto, My highly bashed and wonderful flying Tutor... with the 8 inch longer span and 22 in wide tail and the Big Art os .35's and most regretable of all, my Veco needle nose spinners. Yes, I know. Last summer I spoke with kid I gave them all to who really wanted to get into flying. He was visiting friends here on the Island. He couldn't remember what he did with them before going to college. His mom says they no longer have them but can't remember what they did with them.

Here are pics of the plane, a 21 in Scientific builtup wing P-40 with a Baby Bee 0.49 and I think a Wren 049 but not sure of that one. I emailed a more detailed pic of the motors to you.

bob