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Author Topic: Tank mounting for baby clown  (Read 904 times)

Offline DanielGelinas

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Tank mounting for baby clown
« on: June 01, 2011, 07:49:06 PM »
Hi Guys,

I have a baby clown with cox surestart engine.
How do I mount the 3/8 ounce metal tank with respect to the engine?
Any special setup I need to know for a good run?
Pictures would certainly be apreciated as I am pretty new to this. I always ran the 1/2A's with the engins and tank as one, like the baby-bee etc...

Thanks!

-Danny H^^

Offline kenneth cook

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Re: Tank mounting for baby clown
« Reply #1 on: June 01, 2011, 08:05:39 PM »
         Dan, I would say that 3/8 oz sounds too small for a .049. I would be looking for 3/4 oz. I'm not sure what plane you have kit/arf or scratchbuilt. In the event you have a Brodak kit and it uses the nylon mount the mount may protrude into the tank area. This may require you to place a shim behind the tank so that you don't kick the front of the tank to the outside of the circle. I myself use a piece of 1/16 music wire inserted from the inboard side of the plane which pokes through the fuse to the outboard side. I make it slightly wider than the tank itself and once it pokes through the fuse I bend the ends into a J. You can then use rubber bands from one j bend to the other wrapping the rubber band over and over on itself. If anything you want to make the shim behind the tank into a small wedge. This would kick the back of the tank away from the fuse approx 3/32-1/8 which would help with your pickup being submerged in fuel but also using all of your available fuel. Keep your pickup approx centered on your engine for starters and adjust height after you flown inverted and upright. Once you've established the height you can always put a bit of silicone from the tank to the fuse to hold it from moving again. Ken

Offline DanielGelinas

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Re: Tank mounting for baby clown
« Reply #2 on: June 02, 2011, 05:42:54 AM »
Hi Ken,

I have a 3/4 ounce tank also, so I'll use that one. So the tank height should be centered with the CL of the crankshaft? This would be a starting point, then I try it inverted and change if need be? Does that sound right?
Thanks for the info!

-Danny  H^^ H^^

Offline DanielGelinas

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Re: Tank mounting for baby clown
« Reply #3 on: June 02, 2011, 05:44:01 AM »
BTW, I have the Brodak kit version with the nylon engine mount.

Thanks,

-Danny  H^^ H^^

Offline kenneth cook

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Re: Tank mounting for baby clown
« Reply #4 on: June 02, 2011, 02:30:08 PM »
                      I would like to say that Cox engines aren't real sensitive to tank height  but like any engine its really a matter of gravity. I would suggest though, especially if its an old tank to take it apart and check to see that the pickup is soldered securely to the tank. Pressurize the tank prior to use under water with caps on the vent pipes and pressurize it hard and look for bubbles. Not all pickups are truly centered within the tank. The center of crankshaft would be a good starting point. Keep your fuel line as short as possible as well if that means moving the tank forward. My concern is the Sure Start that you plan to use. The Clown is sensitive as is,  using a Black Widow  engine protrudes out considerably more than the product engine. I would suggest if the plane isn't already built to make another fuse extending the nose an inch. If its already to go heavier wheels would aid the balance but the wheels are somewhat close to the CG now. I have made brass spinners for some engines to help with tail heavy planes and of course you could always epoxy some 1/4 oz. weight to the side of the fuse up against the nylon mount. Props can help in addition to aid in balance for instance the APC props are slightly heavier than wood or Master Airscrew props. Sometimes I find it necessary to cap one of the vents leaving the other open to atmosphere which can stop siphoning, increase fuel draw, also assist you if the engine decides it wants to run backwards. You can easily place your finger over the open vent and it will shut the engine down for restart. I'm quite fond of the Cox engines and with the latest available hop ups you can really get a performer without breaking the bank. Bernie from Xenalook can provide higher performance cylinders, high compression plugs and better quality reeds available in a few flavors for you to try. The Killer Bee backplates once again are available complete with the true Killer Bee needle valve which is finer thread than the standard Sure Start. This also brings something to my mind. The Stock needle valve is too long if you decide to do away with the choke tube which you will need to do if using the Brodak mount. Therefore the needle is going to go all over the map if left long and vibration will actually make it unscrew itself. I generally cut them down about 5/8". Short needle valves are available for the Sure Start. You can also use the stock one like I do and hook a rubber band around it at the knob and proceed to wrap it around the fuse one to two times and rehook it on the needle. This will hold it steady and prevent it from turning at least until the rubber band gets gooey and disolves. Another suggestion would be to soak the holes in the fuse for the mounts with some thin ca. This will harden that area and prevent your mount from crushing the fuse. Ken

Offline DanielGelinas

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Re: Tank mounting for baby clown
« Reply #5 on: June 09, 2011, 06:55:35 PM »
Hi Ken,

Thanks for all the great info. You are correct. there is not much space between the plastic firewall and the wing. I may just add the black widow for to get the CG right. I show pictures when its complete.

-Danny H^^

Offline kenneth cook

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Re: Tank mounting for baby clown
« Reply #6 on: June 09, 2011, 07:44:32 PM »
          Dan, I would still try and use that Sure Start assuming you balanced the plane correctly. Others may claim that they're junk, but they do work. I have some real good ones and extremely steady and reliable runs. Resetting the piston con rod joint is a must with these engines initially. I really couldn't believe how much play was in there. Ken


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