Why would they not perform well? I suppose you'd have to pay special attention to alignment, but otherwise it looks like a sound idea.
Robert, you could also make them up without the staple, install them in both surfaces (staggered) and run a continuous wire through them. Then the control surfaces would be removable.
I agree that the ones marketed were not ideal but if you took a little care by doing it yourself, you would have a better hinge.
Ray, your suggestion is in line with my mention of the strip type hinge in my first post. Making the wire removable is a great suggestion to go along with it.
This is why I posted the the idea here and while it may not be the best solution, does provide another way of doing something we need. The staples may not be the best idea but John Rist pointed out a nice solution.
The biggest problem I have faced with hinges on small models is that they were too stiff. Always needing a lot of power to move them.
When Ace R/C came out with the nylon half A hinges I just knew there was a problem solved. Not so. I kept cutting them narrower and even tried drilling small holes where the hinge line was and they were still too stiff.
So long as the alignment is good (this is important with all hinging as we all know), the type hinge I am suggesting here will provide slop free movement with almost no play or resistance.
Mylar hinges are cheap, easy and work very well. This includes the floppy disk kind as well.
I plan on starting a thread covering a number of hinging methods in the future. I like the sewn type myself but there are some who don't like or won't use them for one reason or another. I also like the cloth hinges. some think them unsightly. Both sewn and cloth hinges suffer a great deal from being too stiff if you get too much dope in the middle.
Besides! Some of us just like to piddle around!
I like coming up with new uses for "found items" Stuff you can get for free or nearly so. Such as the aerosol straws and the soda can material.
Robert