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Author Topic: queen bee engine mounting question  (Read 927 times)

Offline kenneth cook

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queen bee engine mounting question
« on: May 09, 2009, 07:06:59 PM »
      I have posted several questions concerning this particular plane. I had asked one of my club members if they had a model for an .020 size plane. One fellow quickly responded to me with a Larry Scarinzi print of the Queen Bee. I'm not sure if this was the print from a magazine but it was a photo copy nonetheless. I started the plane with great enthusiasm when I hit a snafu with the bellcrank. Minnesota Ray helped me through this problem posting pics and suggested the bb-q skewer I believe as a post through the bellcrank. Well, this had me once again going like mad until I ran into the strut problem. A quick remedy was using 1/32 ply as struts and sandwhiching with another rib. The plane sat for over a year. This week I made great strides to finish all of my sitting projects which leads me to this question. Since the needle valve is parallel to the wing, which side does the vents point to? I figured if the vents are outboard centrifigul force would throw the fuel out. Mounting the vents inboard presents a slight problem getting the fuel tube around the venturi post and out to the other side. In the event the vents are to be outboard, this will be @### nightmare trying to get the fuel pickup to bend directly on itself and stay put. I have a Lil Satan with the Black Widow tankback mounted with the needle inboard and the vents pependicular. To date, I have never got this engine to run a whole tank. I'm afraid I'm going to run into the same problem here. In order to fill I have to position the plane with the vents up til it overflows out the opposing vent. If I then return the plane to level position, aren't both vent pipes now covered with fuel? If I get the engine running isn't going to be starved for air until the fuel level drops below the first vent pipe? I do recall that Ray stated the Pee Wee has a small tank capacity and I'm sure a separate tank is the solution. I really hate drilling holes in tanks to make an external tank. I may have a source to purchase an additional tank to do this but until then, this is the setup I want to try. Ken

Offline Robert McHam

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Re: queen bee engine mounting question
« Reply #1 on: May 09, 2009, 07:18:17 PM »
Ken, the fill vents do go to the inside of the flight circle as you guessed. The pick up tube needs to be positioned to be at the outside of the flight circle.

As for the BW  not getting a full run, first I would make sure it has the fuel pick up to the outside of the circle.

Robert
Crop circles are simply open invitations to fly C/L!

Offline kenneth cook

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Re: queen bee engine mounting question
« Reply #2 on: May 09, 2009, 07:35:43 PM »
    I tried to run the engine and had a few problems. I had a tank to crankcase leak for starters and then I discovered no head gasket under the plug. I luckily had a rebuild kit on hand and a additional glo plug washer. I haven't run this engine for 30 yrs. Prior to putting it on the plane I rotated the backplate and replaced the fuel pick up tube. It needed to be slightly longer to get around the venturi post and go to the opposite side. Engine was running so I disconnected the battery and shortly after it died. I figured it was just cool. I leaned it up a bit and ran it till I believe the fuel was gone. Tomorrow is going to be the big day so I hope all goes well. Ken

Offline Bill Adair

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Re: queen bee engine mounting question
« Reply #3 on: May 09, 2009, 08:55:43 PM »
Ken,

My Pee Wee ran just fine, set up as shown in the magazine article.

In flight, the fuel is sloshed toward the outside of the circle, and the vents seemed to work the same either upright or inverted. Mine hovered by dithering the elevator rapidly to increase drag, and with the pickup at the outside back of the tank, it ran fine in that attitude as well.

Think I ran Cox racing fuel in mine, as they seem to like the higher nitro.

Delightful flying little airplane, and cute as a bug. ;D

Bill
Not a flyer (age related), but still love the hobby!

Offline minnesotamodeler

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Re: queen bee engine mounting question
« Reply #4 on: May 10, 2009, 06:18:47 AM »
I been sorta collecting pix of the little beastie.  20'-25' lines, max. Lotsa fun. Think of it as a miniature Bi-Slob.
--Ray 
Roseville MN (St. Paul suburb, Arctic Circle)
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Offline kenneth cook

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Re: queen bee engine mounting question
« Reply #5 on: May 10, 2009, 06:34:37 AM »
         Ray is the one with the .010 yours? I bet that goes like mad. These kinda of projects keep the spirit alive. My son initiallty was excited then it dwindled off. Last night when I got the .020 running you could see the gears of interest at work. I was still amazed that the engine after 30 yrs started right up. Try doing that with anything you purchase today. I wish I could get him inspired to build these things though. He loves to fly so I guess I'm half way there. Ken

Offline minnesotamodeler

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Re: queen bee engine mounting question
« Reply #6 on: May 11, 2009, 05:56:43 AM »
Yes, the orange/yellow one with the .010 is mine.  Although the .010 is officially borrowed.  Yeah, it's plenty of power for the QB, a real hoot to fly.  I think it's practically as strong as the .020s, at least the Peewees.  The sound alone is worth it, like a demented mosquito.  20' lines last time I had it out, but I woulda been in trouble if it couldn't do lazy eights.  I'm gonna try 27', the old 1/2A standard, next time.  I have a feeling, though, that 24'-25' might be about ideal.

A true back-yard airplane!  Anyone game for some 1/4A combat, pulling tiny little streamers?  I can envision a combat wing sized for the little guys...might even throw one together if I run out of other projects. Weighing just an ounce or two, it would be about indestructable!
--Ray 
Roseville MN (St. Paul suburb, Arctic Circle)
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