stunthanger.com
Building Tips and technical articles. => 1/2 A building. => Topic started by: Andrew Tinsley on December 03, 2012, 11:08:48 AM
-
Now it is getting really cold over in the UK, starting some of the small glow engines is becoming a pain. I have decided to make a small starter. Had enough of my flipping finger freezing when I get fuel on it!
Recommendations on motors need to be pretty international! Anyone come up with a neat idea for cones, switches etc? I am sure this has been done to death, but I can't seem to find the references. I suppose I could buy one from Towers, but not half as much fun as making one. Read that as me being a cheapskate if you wish.
Thanks,
Andrew.
-
Heavy duty Latex hose works for the spinner grabber. Maybe also some rubber lined automotive hose? Miller sells replacement liners made out of Urethane.
You will probably have to turn a holder for it.
I use a 1.3mAh 3s lipo to drive my old Miller 1/2A Starter. It uses a brushed motor, probably at least "Speed 400" size or larger, something around 4cm diameter and 8cm long. Housed in a bit of PVC pipe with a pushbutton at the back (I use my little finger to trigger it).
-
Thanks Larry,
Perfect information, now I can start making once I get a motor.
Thanks,
Andrew.
-
Hi Andrew,
My Sullivan 1/2A starter uses the Mabuchi RS-540SH motor model #7520 set up for CW rotation. This is a 4.8 to 7.2 volt motor that you drive for short periods with 12 volts to get the needed torque.
Orv.
-
Hello Orv,
Thanks for the tip about the Mabuchi motor, I can buy them quite cheaply in UK!
Regards,
Andrew.
-
Go find a old battery drill. Take it apart and remove the reduction gearing.
I have a 9.6v drill based starter that is running on 12 volts for a long time.
find some PVC pipe it will fit in, and get a car horn switch from the local auto parts store
I use black fuel tubing from a lawn mower for a drive cone.
I bought a friend with a lathe a beer and he made a cup for the shaft.
-
I love your avatar, I haven't seen that artwork in over a decade!
-
I bought one of those lime green Sullivan 1/2A starters. It works great. The RPM is a lot higher than the big block starters. I find that reving it up off the engine, releasing the button, and engaging while it's coasting down provided just the right persuasion for the TeeDee .020 and .049.
I don't dare use it on a reed for fear of pushing the crank into the reed valve.
-
Cox Canada sells the washers to put between the drive plate and crankcase. No problem with electric starters then. It is a standard item in any engine I rebuild!
-
Hello Andrew
I used a Mabuchi 540 motor a nicad pack for a car cut down to fourcells,some wire,micro switch ,a small piece of aluminum round drilled for a set screw,piece of rubber hose and an L bracket to make my own.Here are some pics.
Juan
-
Juan, I like it! You may want to try some kind of flexible contact, weatherstrip, cement or silicon to hold the hose on. The zip tie could be dangerous.
-
Boy this brings back memories of many years ago when I first moved back to the KC area. Early 60's it was. Working at an injection molding plant. My brother and I worked there together. We got several guys started flying control line when Charlies Hobby Shop had a box of the McCoy .19 Redheads. Some where a little hard to start. One of the guys took a heater motor out of his car parts and connected a peice of garden hose. A push button switch and some electrical cable. Worked like a champ. It was quite a few years before I seen an electric starter advertised for R/C use.
-
Hey Doc, I remember when guys first started using starters back in the sixties they use Ford Thunderbird power window motors. Don't have a clue why it had to be a Ford Thunderbird window motor but that's what they used and they worked very well.
Andy
-
Hello David
The tie wrap has worked fine since I started to use the starter,I always use a TeeDee spinner on the engines I use a starter on. I make sure they are not flooded by giving them a few flips without the battery connected to the plug.
Juan