stunthanger.com
Building Tips and technical articles. => 1/2 A building. => Topic started by: Bill Little on December 11, 2006, 11:06:19 PM
-
Well fellas,
I got the 1/2A Snapper kit from Ray (minnesotamodeler) today. Everything is really first class, very nice wood, and some assembly is already done!
I will post pictures when I can actually start construction.
Great job, Ray!
Bill <><
-
Thanks Bill. Looking forward to the pictures.
--Ray
-
Have fun with the Snpper Bill.......it goes together very well. What engine are you going to put in it?
-
Have fun with the Snpper Bill.......it goes together very well. What engine are you going to put in it?
I don't have a Babe Bee (at least I can't find it, I HAD one!) so I'll have to use one of the other Cox engines I have: (2) Black Widows (a "new version" and an old metal back plate one) or an all silver Cox that has the big tank with two vents.
I also have a couple of good running McCoy/Testors .049s.
What 'cha think?????
Bill <><
-
Bill: See my post in "Cox engines".
--Ray
-
I don't have a Babe Bee (at least I can't find it, I HAD one!) so I'll have to use one of the other Cox engines I have: (2) Black Widows (a "new version" and an old metal back plate one) or an all silver Cox that has the big tank with two vents.
I also have a couple of good running McCoy/Testors .049s.
What 'cha think?????
Bill <><
Bill pick the best running one. y1
-
My experience was that the Testors 049's would outpower a Black Widow. Hope you have some glow heads, because I sure don't know where you would get another. I've been trying to find a Cub 024 head without any luck. These obsolete critters are that way for a reason, I guess.
-
My experience was that the Testors 049's would outpower a Black Widow. Hope you have some glow heads, because I sure don't know where you would get another. I've been trying to find a Cub 024 head without any luck. These obsolete critters are that way for a reason, I guess.
Hi Russell,
These are the plastic tank ones that were the last series made. What fuel did you use?? I have the two plus a spare glow head. If all goes south with the heads, I might have to drill out one and tap it for a plug or fit the Nelson plug.
I am really getting into some odd building desires lately!
Bill <><
-
I "dry fit" the parts last night, and got familiar with all the parts of the 1/2A Snapper kit from Ray (Minnesota Modeler). It is even BETTER than I thought when I opened the box for the first time. And, I was IMPRESSED upon that first "opening"!
I will take pictures as I go with this so that all can see the outstanding job Ray does.
Bill <><
-
I've been peeking in here now and then Bill to see how your Snapper is coming along. Any progress?
-
HI Frank,
Been hit by a virus (not computer!) and work............ should get some work done on it this weekend.
Bill <><
-
I got hit by both of those things myself last month...they kinda make you put models on a back burner.
I'm patient----take your time. I've seen some of the models you build so I'm sure the Snapper will be a gem.
You know I got a Snapper from Ray myself (two actually) one is built and ready to cover.
-
Headed to the shop with camera in hand! ;D
Stay tuned!
Bill <><
-
ok
-
Got the box back out and built the wing! I forgot to take more pictures after I glued up the wing, but it only took 5 min. 43 sec. (I timed it! ;D ) to get a very straight wing built from the time it took after I took this picture. I will admit that I spent more than a few minutes just looking at the pretty parts of the wing before I glued it!
I didn't go any farther because Iwas just too lazy (didn't feel like) mixing up some epoxy to glue the doublers.......... actually th ephone started ringing and I didn't get back to it.
Here's everything exactly like it came out of the box. It's sorta an ARC the way Ray does his kits! #^
-
Gret!! Good start.
Ray puts in quite bit of work on these. Rudders glued, elevator wire glued and the fits are colossal. I guess I've gotten about 5 or 6 different models from him. They aall build very well and they fly good too.
Keep the pix coming Bill. y1
-
Good beginning, Bill...keep us posted. And thanks for the compliments, guys.
--Ray
-
Today I got the fuselage built (you do it "on the wing"), stab installed, tail skid, fit the engine (I flipped the cylinder to an "inverted position on the Black Widow) and most of the top sheeting, plus fitting the hatch. A *little* more sheeting, the head rest, and I can start the covering/painting. I plan to cover it with red jap tissue on the wings, haven't decided on the fuselag color.
BTW: Ray, the nickle is a 1964, which is the second year I was "seriously" flying C/L! I coulda built one of these back then. ;D
This has been an absolute JOY to build, and one of the easiest kits to build I have ever done. I didn't have to do hardly anything other than glue stuff together, parts fits were near perfect all the way around. I like the way Ray does things. He marks positions and such almost exactly like I do! y1
Pictures tomorrow, I left the camera upstairs at the computer by accident.
-
Sounds like good progress, Bill, and I'm glad you like the kit. If I mark things just like you do it must be right, right?
Looking forward to your pics.
--Ray
-
Here it is so far! Not much more except sanding and finishing.
-
NICE!! that's looking good Bill.
So far everyone that I've talked to said that the Snapper is great flyer.
Thamks for the picture. Now I'm looking forward to one of those great finishes you do.
-
NICE!! that's looking good Bill.
So far everyone that I've talked to said that the Snapper is great flyer.
Thamks for the picture. Now I'm looking forward to one of those great finishes you do.
Thanks, Frank! Boy, talk about pressure! "Great finishes"!! I am trying to keep this one REAL LIGHT! **)
-
Light is good...5 oz. if possible. I really like this little plane. It does fly nicely if a little fast. My very first one, in the 50s (I was very young) had an Atwood .049 in it I think. 27' lines, 1/2A standard at the time, too short. I believe it was the first plane I ever looped...now you know why I kitted it!
Good looking bones. Like Frank, I'm looking forward to the "finished" pics.
--Ray
-
Bill you got me fired up...........I started doping my Snapper today. #^
-
Watch for warps.
-
Warps and pictures from Bill. y1
-
Warps and pictures from Bill. y1
Pictures will be coming! ;D
-
Groovy wheels there Bill! Do ya think it'll burn rubber?? LL~ Or just do a wheely %^@
-
Groovy wheels there Bill! Do ya think it'll burn rubber?? LL~ Or just do a wheely %^@
The wheels are pretty neat! They were supplied by Ray, and light! y1
-
Bill,
I just noticed in the pic (while checking out those awsome wheels) that you left the starter spring on. If you intend to use that starter, make sure it has room to bounce around or it may eat up the front end of your plane as it bounces. Remember, the plastic part takes up some room, and the spring bounces off that.
Looking good.
George
-
Bill,
I just noticed in the pic (while checking out those awsome wheels) that you left the starter spring on. If you intend to use that starter, make sure it has room to bounce around or it may eat up the front end of your plane as it bounces. Remember, the plastic part takes up some room, and the spring bounces off that.
Looking good.
George
I saw that too. But I thought since Bill hadn't finished the plane yet that it was something he'd take care of during the build. I probably should have pointed it out I'm glad you did George. Better safe than sorry> y1
-
Thanks, guys. I just put the engine on with two bolts to see how much clearance I would need to sand into the nose. Went ahead and took pictures to get them posted. Might leave it off (spring starter) to keep from ruining the "look" of that nose.
Bill <><
-
I left the spring off my Snapper for the same reason Bill. What do you do when it starts up and runs backwards?
I used to just throw a rag into the prop but I hate the thought of doing that to this model. Do you have a better plan?
-
Stick your hand in it, Frank...
I usually just use the rag trick. But I found that wiith that nice smooth nose cone like Bill has you can pinch it hard enough to kill the engine, if you're careful.
--Ray
-
How's your Snapper progressing Bill?
I have mine covered now. I used Brodak medium silk span. I'm not going to cover the whole thing just the wing. The rest will be dope, primer and sanding.
-
How's your Snapper progressing Bill?
I have mine covered now. I used Brodak medium silk span. I'm not going to cover the whole thing just the wing. The rest will be dope, primer and sanding.
HI Frank,
Had a *little* delay. Most of the weekend was spent replacing most of the floor in one of my bathrooms........... puppy, old tile and................
All the wood work is done! Even hollowed out Ray's head rest.
I am using Jap tissue on the wings. Red, of course! The fuselage will get a nitrate base (can use nitrate as a filler and keep it light!) and dope color.
Had thought of just using red tissue all over and touching it up with some color trim! This would yield the lightest finish..........might just go that route after all. On second thought, that's what I will do.
Bill <><
-
At first I'd thought about using colored Jap Tissue on the whole model but when I started plotting the steps I couldn't see a way to avoid overlapping the tissue on the fuselage so I abandoned that idea.
-
At first I'd thought about using colored Jap Tissue on the whole model but when I started plotting the steps I couldn't see a way to avoid overlapping the tissue on the fuselage so I abandoned that idea.
Hi Frank,
Several years back, a fellow who published the "Professor" (a built up fuselage Tutor, basically) did a video article for Bob Hunt on applying tissue with out leaving seams. He is an excdelent wood worker and did most all his planes in jap tissue to show off the wood work.
It is like joining carpet or linoleium. When it's overlapped, take a straight edge and razor, cut it, remove the excess, then seal the edges down good. They pretty well disappear. You know the drill.
-
Hi Frank,
Several years back, a fellow who published the "Professor" (a built up fuselage Tutor, basically) did a video article for Bob Hunt on applying tissue with out leaving seams. He is an excdelent wood worker and did most all his planes in jap tissue to show off the wood work.
It is like joining carpet or linoleium. When it's overlapped, take a straight edge and razor, cut it, remove the excess, then seal the edges down good. They pretty well disappear. You know the drill.
Why didn't I think of that??? mw~ Thanks Bill. I'll use that little trick from now on!! y1
-
Bill,
As you know I am in the finishing stages of a Snapper. I just got done cutting a 1/32 ply windscreen for it.
Well...........I was wondering if it would be o.k. to post progress pix of the work here with you or should I start another thread?
I don't want to be a bother. HH%%
-
Well I suspect Bill thinks it's 'way too late to worry about that, Frank...heh heh heh.
I for one would like to see your Snapper windscreen. Kinda the same order as the one you made for your Autogyro, I guess?
--Ray
-
I for one would like to see your Snapper windscreen. Kinda the same order as the one you made for your Autogyro, I guess?
--Ray
yes exactly the same ----- only different. (PE**)
-
HI Frank,
post your pictures here! I think it will be neat to have them both here (when I get mine with some finish on it, too.)
Kinda like that Queen Bee post............
Bill <><
-
HI Frank,
post your pictures here! I think it will be neat to have them both here (when I get mine with some finish on it, too.)
Kinda like that Queen Bee post............
Bill <><
Cool Bill!! I didn't want to just barge in on you.
So here's the update........I've made two attempts so far at making a windscreen frame for the Snapper. The first one was way wrong and..........well so was the second. I have some running to do taday and won't be able to go for try #3 till this afternoon. I have about 4 coats of clear on the plane so far and it looks like it's ready for a base coat. I'm having a brain block as far as a paint scheme. Right now I'm thinking white, red, and yellow for colors. The white being the primary and the yellow the secondary with red bringing up the rear. Or maybe red as the secondary. Maybe a sun burst. I don't know.
What are you doing with yours? Do ya have any ideas to steal??
-
I'm ready to sand and paint this puppy......
-
Hey Bill................where are you? How's your Snapper coming along?? I feel like I have to go full tilt with mine because Ray and I will be starting our 1/2A arrows by the first of next week.
It took four tries before I got a windscreen I liked. I kept getting them cut uneven or just all cut up. But I think I figured a way to do it from now on. We'll see. I'm going to stick the windscreen on during final assembly so I can get some plastic in there so it looks like glass.
It only took about 45 mins. to sand it. And even less time to spray a coat of primer on it. One thing I know for sure now is that it is harder to get a smooth finish without covering the model first.
I'll tell you--the great thing about these little planes is that they are short projects compared to a stunter and you get a chance to try out different applications without wrecking a big plane.
Here are two pix of it in primer.
-
Very nice, Frank. I like the LG fairings, shades of the Autogyro! Looks good. Stars, you think?
--Ray
-
Very nice, Frank. I like the LG fairings, shades of the Autogyro! Looks good. Stars, you think?
--Ray
Thanks Ray. The LG fairings went on aas an afterthought. It was too easy to do not to have them.
Stars I think. How do you think it would look with the fuselage and rudder blue with white stars and a red sunburst on wing and stabilizer?
-
Hi Frank,
I have settled on having an all red Jap tissue finish. I will probably cut some tissue for trim. Just looking to get a fairly 1949 look to it. ;D
Just haven't had the time to get back to work the last couple of days, nothing in the workshop has been touched much since the weekend. Gonna try and spend some time here shortly down in the basement!
Bill <><
-
doing a red tissue finish should slow you down Bill. It'll look really good though. I'm guessing black trim?
-
Thanks Ray. The LG fairings went on aas an afterthought. It was too easy to do not to have them.
Stars I think. How do you think it would look with the fuselage and rudder blue with white stars and a red sunburst on wing and stabilizer?
If you do it, it'll look cool, guaranteed.
--Ray
-
If you do it, it'll look cool, guaranteed.
--Ray
Patriotic it will be Ray.
-
doing a red tissue finish should slow you down Bill. It'll look really good though. I'm guessing black trim?
Black trim is my idea for it. The tissue finish will not take very long on a plane this small! I just have to ge the time to do it from start to finish! LOL!!
I have some gold tissue, but I am hot sure just how goos it will show up on the red........
-
Bill would you please take pictures of the different steps? Like how you cut the tissue. How you lay the tissue on. Things like that? I am a patient maan. Do not worry about how long before you get the time. I'll wait. Just show us how you do it.
-
Bill would you please take pictures of the different steps? Like how you cut the tissue. How you lay the tissue on. Things like that? I am a patient maan. Do not worry about how long before you get the time. I'll wait. Just show us how you do it.
Hi Frank,
I will do that. With a "project" this small, I am a touch concerned about how it will go, but excited to see the outcome! With a larger subject, it isn't hard at all to do with patience. With something this small (I just ain't use to working with these litle buggers!) it is going to be challenging for me. That's part of the reason I want to do it! ;D
Bill <><
-
Hi Frank,
I will do that. With a "project" this small, I am a touch concerned about how it will go, but excited to see the outcome! With a larger subject, it isn't hard at all to do with patience. With something this small (I just ain't use to working with these litle buggers!) it is going to be challenging for me. That's part of the reason I want to do it! ;D
Bill <><
Just think of it as a regular horizontal stab with a engine going on it! LL~
-
You shoulda tried building the Queen Bee.
-
You shoulda tried building the Queen Bee.
HI Ray,
I used to detail cockpits in 1/72nd scale WW II fighter models...........
Just not used to working with flying planes this small!! **)
Bill <><
-
HI Ray,
I used to detail cockpits in 1/72nd scale WW II fighter models...........
Just not used to working with flying planes this small!! **)
Bill <><
you won't really start having fun till you try covering the area in the tail between where the push rod exits and the rudder.
-
Well Frank! The Nitrate is drying on the Snapper. Once it's cured, I will do the final sanding and the covering will commence. Going to use the red Jap Tissue all over. I have all the colors known to man in Jap tissue, so what trim color do you suggest? Remember, it will be doped on colored tissue!
Bill <><
-
Well Frank! The Nitrate is drying on the Snapper. Once it's cured, I will do the final sanding and the covering will commence. Going to use the red Jap Tissue all over. I have all the colors known to man in Jap tissue, so what trim color do you suggest? Remember, it will be doped on colored tissue!
Bill <><
I guess black Bill............or Dark Blue. Won't most of the other colors let the red shine through.
I'm just now taking a break from masking my Snapper. I'm doing the bottom of it too.
-
Well Frank! The Nitrate is drying on the Snapper. Once it's cured, I will do the final sanding and the covering will commence. Going to use the red Jap Tissue all over. I have all the colors known to man in Jap tissue, so what trim color do you suggest? Remember, it will be doped on colored tissue!
Bill <><
Bill,
Is the colored jap tissue you use the same stuff that you can find in the gift wrapping section used for gift bag tissue(like Hallmark, ect)? Just wondering if it is the same stuff...looks the same... ??? ??? ??? ??? ???
-
Bill,
Is the colored jap tissue you use the same stuff that you can find in the gift wrapping section used for gift bag tissue(like Hallmark, ect)? Just wondering if it is the same stuff...looks the same... ??? ??? ??? ??? ???
Jap Tissue is different than gift wrapping tissue................
How about let's talk about set backs. I have about 6 hours into masking off the Snapper for a good ole patriotic scheme. I managed to cut a little nick in the covering. Now look what I got.............oooh nooooo!!
-
I'm fixing that hole. Right now I'm waiting for the dope to dry and hoping it draws up tight.
We'll see. If this doesn't look good I'll cut it out and do it again.
-
I'm fixing that hole. Right now I'm waiting for the dope to dry and hoping it draws up tight.
We'll see. If this doesn't look good I'll cut it out and do it again.
Im assuming that area will be the dark blue /stars section, so your patch wont be noticable? :!
-
Im assuming that area will be the dark blue /stars section, so your patch wont be noticable? :!
Yes.............The patch is right between the blue and the sun burst. I'll be able to hide it in the midst of all the color changes.
This is a prime example of why it's good to build all of these small and for the most part insignificant models.We'll have the same bloopers on them as we will our stunt planes. As we learn how to handle these screw ups on the little planes we'll learn how to avoid them on the serious bigger planes and more importantly we'll know how to handle them on our stunters. y1
-
One tip to help hide patches. Most of you know this, I guess, but for those who haven't heard it: Cut your patch a *little* bigger than you normally would, then tear the edges of the silkspan along the cut lines. Not a lot, just all th eway around so that it is not a "sharp line". This really helps the edges to blend in with less work. The torn edge is "softer" than the cut edge.
Bill <><
-
And you have to use clear to get the patch started. I used white and it failed. I have since cut out the original patch and have replaced it with new silkspan using clear dope for the adhesive and the first coats. Patience and protocal are everything.
-
And you have to use clear to get the patch started. I used white and it failed. I have since cut out the original patch and have replaced it with new silkspan using clear dope for the adhesive and the first coats. Patience and protocal are everything.
Yep, never had any success with trying to use colored dope to stick on any kind of covering. And you cannot use nitrate after you have put down anything else! ;D Learned that one the hard way!
-
Patch # 2 is working out real good. You just can't rush the protocal.
Tomorrow I will have pics of a most excellent paint scheme.
-
Patch # 2 is working out real good. You just can't rush the protocal.
Tomorrow I will have pics of a most excellent paint scheme.
mw~ Protocol? mw~ ??? What Protocol? mw~ ???.....Weee dont need no stinkin' Protocol!!! LL~
I'm sure it will be most excellent...
-
Star and stripes forever...I can hardly wait to see it.
--Ray
-
Star and stripes forever...I can hardly wait to see it.
--Ray
I can hardly wait either Ray. That hole sure came at a bad time. I'd planned on putting clear coats on it by now.
-
Not a bad repair.
-
what repair?? :P
-
what repair?? :P
That's what I mean.. HH%% o2oP j1 o2oP HH%%
-
Just dont screw it up again... HB~> :X
-
I got my Snapper painted today. HH%% As usual there are touch ups that need to be done. HB~> When it's touched up and has a couple coats of clear on it, it should look pretty good. y1 I'm going to let it gas off a day or two before I touch it again.
I tried painting it with the dope to thinner ratio beng 75% thinner. It still covered good. I think less color will mean less weight. Next time I'm going to try using mostly clear with the color in there for the tint and a lower thinner to dope ratio.
Thinned out that much the dope really flies out of the sprayer. That's a good thing right? y1
Now where the heck are the Arrow plans? AP^
-
Looks GREAT Frank! y1
I wouldn't expect anything less from you!Very Patriotic and a Great recovery from you lil' accident. f~ ~>
mw~ Now, about that Heat.......
BTW...Whats the bottom look like? ???
-
Gorgeous, Frank...those pics are destined for my web page, if that's OK with you. What's the final weight?
--Ray
-
Looks GREAT Frank! y1
I wouldn't expect anything less from you!Very Patriotic and a Great recovery from you lil' accident. f~ ~>
mw~ Now, about that Heat.......
BTW...Whats the bottom look like? ???
Thanks Richard-----I did find another tear on the bottom. Still have to fix it. I skipped putting stars on the bottom to make the repair easier.
RSM called me about using pictures of my Heat for their website so tomorrow I'm cleaning the shop and getting back to work on it.
Here is a picture of the bottom of the Snapper. I'm going to pick up some vinyl lettering for the name and my AMA #.
-
Gorgeous, Frank...those pics are destined for my web page, if that's OK with you. What's the final weight?
--Ray
Ray if you hold up on the pics till the end of the week it will be looking a lot better. I still have touchups, the windscren and clear coats to go. I promise it'll look twice as good so wait if you please.
I won't know the final weight but I'm guess it'll be pretty much the same weight as yours plus a 1/4 to 1/2 oz.
It was a nice kit. Thanks for making it for me.
Still no Arrow plans.................SIGH.
-
Thanks Richard-----I did find another tear on the bottom. Still have to fix it. I skipped putting stars on the bottom to make the repair easier.
RSM called me about using pictures of my Heat for their website so tomorrow I'm cleaning the shop and getting back to work on it.
Here is a picture of the bottom of the Snapper. I'm going to pick up some vinyl lettering for the name and my AMA #.
Bummer on the tear down there, youll make it right though! All the publicity your models are getting goes back to you being a true craftsman of model building! Congratulations on the RSM spread, will be looking for it to come out. Did you ever get the engine mounts drilled? I think the last pixs I seen of it, you were about ready for the clear coat? That is one sharp paint scheme. You will, however, need to eat several boxes of wheaties the day you test fly it!
-
Ray if you hold up on the pics till the end of the week it will be looking a lot better. I still have touchups, the windscren and clear coats to go. I promise it'll look twice as good so wait if you please.
I won't know the final weight but I'm guess it'll be pretty much the same weight as yours plus a 1/4 to 1/2 oz.
It was a nice kit. Thanks for making it for me.
Still no Arrow plans.................SIGH.
OK I'll wait. Getting a lot of practice at it with those Arrow plans...
-
It'll just be a couple days Ray. I picked up a pilot today for it. He's a little bigger than I'd like but he'll do. y1
EDIT--------got the touch ups going. I'll have it final assembled tomorrow. How do you like it now?
-
It'll just be a couple days Ray. I picked up a pilot today for it. He's a little bigger than I'd like but he'll do. y1
EDIT--------got the touch ups going. I'll have it final assembled tomorrow. How do you like it now?
oh yeah!!! mo bedda...... y1
-
Beautiful as expected...I think the takeoff run will be a little shorter if you put wheels on it.
--Ray
-
oh yeah!!! mo bedda...... y1
Thanks Richard..............hey I even managed to get little plastic lenses in the windscreen. CLP**
I hope Ray has an idea about line length. This is the third 1/2A model this winter. I now have a Brodak Stop Sign- A Minnesota Modeler Snapper and Queen Bee and a Black Hawk Models Auto-Gyro. And I did a reasonably good job on all four. What I like is the guys here in Michigan don't really go in too much for making their 1/2A models pretty so it's going to be a hoot taking these out to the circle. y1
-
Beautiful as expected...I think the takeoff run will be a little shorter if you put wheels on it.
--Ray
Wheels? O.K. wheels. I'm going to try and have it RTF by tomorrow evening Ray. I keep finding spots I need to fix and I think that big white space on the fuselage sides needs a red stripe.
It feels a little crazy putting so much into it but shoot............why not? y1
-
Indeed. Too cold to fly; no Arrow plans to drool over; may as well piddle with paint.
You mentioned line length...I always use 35' minimum, for the weak-to-moderate .049s; usually 42' for the strong ones, and some of the .061 models (notably combat wing, which I love to see go really really fast); up to, as I've said before, 48' for the LittleAxe. I have 15' on the Queen Bee which according to rather disturbing reports from others, is probably half as long as it needs. But I'm gonna find out for myself anyhow, first flight will be 15' lines.
--Ray
-
And Ray would those be 8 or 12 thousandths? Which?
Oh and by the way that 300 posts on our giro thread was really something. We sure had a lot to say about that little plane. The 12 year old kid is probably frozen in a snow drift with his. He shoulda taken his time. LL~
Bill thankyou for letting me join you on this thread.
My Snapper is RTF now. Here are the pics. Weighs 6 1/2 oz.
-
Lines--Spiderwire of course! I do have a set of 35' .008 cable, but they look so fragile I've never used them. Always figured, if I ever go to a contest...
I have used .012 x 35'. That might get a little heavy at 42', certainly at anything longer.
6.5 oz. on the Snapper is good, maybe a skosh heavier than mine but it looks so good it's worth it. Award-winning job.
Thanks for making my planes look so good!
--Ray
-
Lines--Spiderwire of course! I do have a set of 35' .008 cable, but they look so fragile I've never used them. Always figured, if I ever go to a contest...
I have used .012 x 35'. That might get a little heavy at 42', certainly at anything longer.
6.5 oz. on the Snapper is good, maybe a skosh heavier than mine but it looks so good it's worth it. Award-winning job.
Thanks for making my planes look so good!
--Ray
I have a roll of Siderwire.........I've used the .008 limes before they really aren't very robust. I guess I'll try different things this year. Now that I'm hooked on 1/2A.
Thanks again for the compliments Ray.
-
Frank,
You have a great looking airplane. I have a couple of general questions and comments:
Have you tried the "Hallmark" tissue for covering? I understand that it is adequate but heavier.
I have heard of some using that tissue for trim because it comes in so many colors, and is much cheaper than Jap tissue.
Sometimes a small split in covering (like sanding through at a rib.. :'( ) can be repaired by alighning the tissue with a T-pin and CAREFULLY applying Brodak Rejuvenator. Same with a punched hole if tissue can be aligned.
-
Frank,
You have a great looking airplane. I have a couple of general questions and comments:
Have you tried the "Hallmark" tissue for covering? I understand that it is adequate but heavier.
I have heard of some using that tissue for trim because it comes in so many colors, and is much cheaper than Jap tissue.
Sometimes a small split in covering (like sanding through at a rib.. :'( ) can be repaired by aligning the tissue with a T-pin and CAREFULLY applying Brodak Rejuvenator. Same with a punched hole if tissue can be aligned.
I've always looked at Hallmark tissue and thought it would work for covering a plane. I never actually tried it though. I probably will now since you figure it will work too. It would certainly be worth a go at it.
At 45 cents a sheet I can't say that Jap tissue is very expensive but the wide variety of colors that Hallmark offers is a sure selling point.
You know, I found one more tear on the bottom wing. It was about a quarter inch long and right against a rib. I lined up the ends and glued it with clear dope. It worked! I don't know how strong it is but I'll bet it'll hold as well as anything. The Jap tissue isn't all that strong anyway. So it will probably get a tear somewhere else first.
I'll be sure to try some Hallmark next time George. Thanks for the tip.
-
Last time I bought tissue it was about three times what you paid so I checked online. It's out there, ya just gotta look around.
For one or two sheets, perhaps your local Hallmark store might be your best bet since you would bypass shipping charges. Otherwise, as you say, cost difference is about nill...of course, this is valid ONLY if it works.
For thise who have never covered with Japanese tissue, Bob Hunt has an excellent video where Larry Kruse shows three methods of covering and why each is used. Before the video, I only knew ONE way. :(
George
-
My LHS has quite a few tubes of Jap Tissue. Apparently there isn't/hasn't been much call for it so I suppose I may have an unlimited supply.
If you need some George I could always buy some for you and send it in a tube.
-
BILL------DID YOU EVER FINISH YOUR SNAPPER? ???
-
I have built 3 Snappers over the years, the first one was Cub powered, and flew OK. The second had a Wen Mac and silk covering - what a toad. The third was quite recent, and I did EVERYTHING to lighten it up - scratch built with light 1/32" balsa, Holland Wasp engine, balloon tank, Litespan covering (no paint required, lighter than Jap tissue, but tougher) and clear epoxy on the wood.
Would you believe 4 ounces? 37' of .008 solid wire lines. 5x3 prop. Completely capable of a competitive pattern. Loved that model to death! I put an Atwood Shriek on it for one flight. Whoa Nellie! That puppy came right back off again.
-
hi Larry,
I'm still waiting for warm weather to fly my Snapper. I hope it goes like your #3.
Welcome to StuntHangar.
-
Hi Larry,
Glad you're here!
Frank, I have put off the covering for now................ it is completed, bare wood is doped and ready. In the last month, I have accomplished very little in the way of building, at least as far as I am concerned........ just got a touch overwhelmed, or something. I get just small things done when I go into the shop.........
Bill <><
-
The best thing about model planes Bill is they don't mind being left alone. We got no quotas and no production schedule. You know I have a couple models around here I haven't worked on in years. I'm not getting much done myself in the basement. I feel a little guilty about the 1/2A Fierce Arrow project---I haven't touched that in a week or so.
-
No guilt, we all go in fits and starts. I haven't done much to my FA since sheeting the LEs, and I may not be done with that step, if I decide to replace some.
Oops, wrong thread. Sorry. (Buncha stuff deleted)
--Ray
-
I took my Snapper out to the circle yesterday but there was a problem with the engine. And I didn't fly it. I'll have another go at it next week.
-
After sitting all winter, I think these little engines probably need to be taken out in the back yard or garage or somewhere and run once or twice to get all the gunk out before hitting the field. Now we'll see if I take my own advice.
--Ray
-
I agree Ray---Jan and I are going to be running those engines out back till they're juiced up and ready to go.
-
Well, OK, I went flying today--took out 3 planes: Snapper, new LilGeo, and LittleAxe. Flew one: LittleAxe. Why not the other 2, you ask? BECAUSE, I couldn't get the engines to run...I sure oughtta listen to myself more. The Snapper has a production Cox engine; I got it started but it quit before I got to the handle and wouldn't start again. Acts like something's probably under the reed. The LilGeo is even more asinine: It has a new VA .049 on it, never been run...my half-baked plan was to run a couple of tanks through it on the ground, then put it up in the air. 'Way stiff, never got it to start. What was I thinking?
But my trusty Norvel .061 in the LittleAxe didn't let me down...fired right up, ran like a champ, as always; the airplane is great! I actually believe I could enter a Stunt contest with this plane, note I didn't say win anything, but compete at least. It turns the prettiest square corners you ever saw, I can square it out at the bottom with nary a bobble, sits on a rail flying level upright or inverted...makes even me look better than I am. Very nice controlled glide, smooooooth landing. Only little problem is a trim issue: it gets a little light on the lines overhead, enough to make me a little nervous. I'm gonna add some tip weight and move the leadouts forward about 1/4" and see if that helps any. Running a 6x2, 48' lines, it's turning a 5+ second lap, may be a little slow. I'll try a 6x3 next time out. Also my clunk tank didn't cut off cleanly, it burped around a few laps first...I'm changing the length of the uniflow vent for next time. All in all, a positive beginning to the 2007 flying season for me.
Next opportunity, I guess I'll take the Queen Bee out and see what it'll do...and the Autogyro. But I'm gonna run the engines first in the back yard, I promise!
--Ray
-
I got the .020 running very smooth today. I'll put it on the Queen Bee next. I guess I'll try 20 foot lines first.
Also got a Cox .049 running pretty darn good. That'll be going on the Snapper.
I've never just stuck an engine on a big plane without bench running it first. And now I know to do that with the 1/2As also. #^
-
Try a 6x2 APC prop on 45 foot lines. I think you will find you have a speed/line pull combination that works. Theory says that more speed and longer lines gives better control, but that simplified theory does NOT take into account the angular rotation effects of line drag. Been there, done that!
In my experience, you need a certain amount of weight to pull on a certain amount of line, speed not withstanding. I haven't got it all straight in my head yet, but this is my best advice. Lines have to be balanced by weight at speed. And it is not a simple trade-off. Sadly, I should be able to write the applicable formulas, but haven't gotten to it. (I'd rather design new models!!)
Larry
-
Thanks Larry, if I can't get the overhead line tension I want with a 6x3, I will shorten the lines to 45'; I just like the extra room for maneuvering that longer lines give. It just occurred to me also, my fuel cutoff problem could be related to yawing out too much, putting the back of the tank further into the circle than the front. Moving the LOs forward may help that too.
Today I ran (in my backyard, on a test board) a Cox production engine for the Snapper, my new blue Brodak .049 (seems about equal to the Cox) which will go on the Autogyro; That new VA--it will run on draw, but the needle must be set very open, I have to put a longer tension tubing on it--; one of my PeeWee .020s and the TeeDee .020 both of which surprisingly run about the same, I expected the TeeDee to be stronger, for the Queen Bee. Sure is easier to do this on a test board in the yard, than on a plane at the circle! I should have a little more success next time out. The Cox produced quite a lot of vibration. I'm supposing the prop is off balance and will try it again with another. My neighbor's Boxer dog took offense at the noise, came over barking at the engines!
--Ray
-
Except for Dave Shirley Jr.'s Cyclon powered model, which flies fine on 60'lines (340 sq.in. plane) I have yet to see a 1/2A or 1cc model that can handle even 5 second laps. Mine fly in the low 4's. Slower than that and I lose line tension. If the speed problem can be solved, I would LOVE to hear about it!
My best results come from spinning a low pitch prop very fast. The model tends to stay at a more constant speed, and doesn't slow down in square corners. This gives better line tension all the way through maneuvers.
-
"... .........My best results come from spinning a low pitch prop very fast. The model tends to stay at a more constant speed, and doesn't slow down in square corners. This gives better line tension all the way through maneuvers.
"
What Larry said!
Roger
-
I have .008 X 45 foot lines and a Cox .o49 of some sort with a 5X3 prop. That'll be my starting point.