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Building Tips and technical articles. => 1/2 A building. => Topic started by: Rob Killick on July 07, 2010, 06:24:22 PM
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Hi ,
I'm in the process of building a Brodak 1/2A Pathfinder(Brodak .061 engine) and would like to know if .008 braided steel lines are ok to use ?
I'd also like to know what might be a good starting length for the lines ?
Thank you ,
Rob K.
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Hey Rob, not being familiar with the Brodak .061 and it's power it would be hard for me to say, so i may be of little help. I would like to know what you think of the small Pathfinder when you finish it as i have looked at adding it to my fleet. My opinion on the .008 lines is that they are very easy to fly with but very easy to mess up! On my 1/2a's with Norvels or Wasps i use between 42 and 48 foot lines, either .012 stainless or 30 lb. spiderwire. Good luck with your build and let us know how it is going.
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The .008s will do fine, but you have to handle them with kid gloves...very susceptible to kinks. I usually fly my .061s on 48' lines, strong .049s on 42', mild .049s on 35', .020s on 27'.
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Thanks fellas .
I appreciate the help y1
(Ray , I'll give you a build critique , when the Pathfinder is complete ).
Rob K.
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I'm currently flying my pathfinder with a Norvel.074. My son feels its too much power in which I disagree. I like this engine a lot except for starting it. I've been having a bit of trouble starting it initially. I'm using Spiderwire 42' long. I believe and my son feels the same that we could go out to 47' or possibly50'. This is an excellent flying plane. I would like to enter this plane in competition. It takes off like the larger size planes and lands the same. I don't disagree that .008 wouldn't work, but I had smaller lighter models break .008's when they flew out and jerked the lines. My lines were also older but I take really good care of them' I found the best thing for the .008 is to chamfer and deburr the crimp tubes then use a piece of shrink tube approx 1 " long from the eyelet down. This procedure has eliminated my problems. The only drawback is that you can't see the connection although they haven't broke since I've done this. Ken
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I would make a 50' set of lines, fly cautiously, and then cut them down as needed. You don't mention what prop you are using. I suspect that an APC 6x2 will give you incredible thrust without building up too much speed. Norvel engines should remain happy turning in the low to mid 20K region on the ground, so the smallish prop will give you performance, no overheating of the engine, and it can survive the experience if you use 22% (50/50 castor/synthetic mix) oil and no more than 15% Nitro.
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I fly this one on .008 x 45'. In light winds thats about the limit. Maybe another foot or two in dead calm.. Norvel .061, APC 6-2, weight 13oz.
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I found the best thing for the .008 is to chamfer and deburr the crimp tubes then use a piece of shrink tube approx 1 " long from the eyelet down. This procedure has eliminated my problems. The only drawback is that you can't see the connection although they haven't broke since I've done this. Ken
You can get clear heat shrink, it would let you visually inspect things. You may have to get it from an electronics place.
- www.digikey.com. My go-to people, but with a minimum order that'll buy you and a friend a lifetime supply of heat-shrink.
- www.mouser.com. If I recall correctly, no minimum order but slightly higher prices
- www.allelectronics.com. Surplus place, if they have it it'll be cheaper.
All of these places also have light tools like pliers, cutters, screwdrivers, etc.