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Building Tips and technical articles. => 1/2 A building. => Topic started by: david beazley on September 28, 2009, 03:35:48 PM
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I just did an inventory of my 1/2A engines, 2 Norvel .061, 2 Cox TD049, 1 older Golden Bee, 1 plasic tank Black Widow, 1 Fox FAI, 1 Fox Sport. I have been running one of the Norvel's in a Baby Clown arf running PowerMaster 15%. What do most folks run in their 1/2A's?
I want to run one of the Cox reed valve engines or the Fox Sport on a Muciano Flight Trainer.
Suggestions on fuel?
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Cox reed engines are perfectly happy on 15% Nitro, and can benefit from 30%. The run duration suffers with the higher Nitro, of course. You have to experiment with the mix for your particular plane and prop and lines to get the best performance.
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David, i run 25% nitro omega in all my 1/2a's, norvel .049 to .061 on suction for sport and pressure for combat, ap wasp,cox sure starts to tee dees, ok cubs and they all run fine, if you run only cox or cubs a little extra castor wouldn't hurt. I beleive fuel is a matter of preference for your own type of flying and engine runs.
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Powermaster 30% Heli fuel with about 8 oz. of Castor added works quite well in NorVels.
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About what everyone else is saying is quite true. In the past couple of years I get gallon of 30% car fuel (which I know has 11% lubricatant 50/50 castor/synthetic - I can't think of the name of hand but the local always gets this brand which is why I settled on it) and mix in enough 50/50 oil (klotz beanol and synthetic) to end up with approximately 25% nitro and 22% total oil.
What no one is mentioning and that which I consider of utmost importance is that no matter what fuel you use, for the smaller engines cleanliness is of the utmost importance. When I decant enough fuel from the gallon jug to mix a pint (or quart) I clean the smaller container first and pour as best as I can the added oil through a filter into the smaller container and then filter the fuel (to finish washing the oil through the funnel and filter) as I put it in the smaller container. My smaller fuel container has a filter on the pickup in the container and another on the outside to double filter the fuel as I withdraw it using a syringe. the fuel line extension on the syringe also has a filter on it that filters the fuel again as I fill the tank and there is a filter on the line from the tank to the engine. The filters are regularily checked and cleaned. This may sound like a bit of overkill but since I have been doing this I rarely have any "dirty fuel" problems.
cheers, Graham in Ottawa Canada
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WHERE DO YOU GET THE 50/50 OIL? BRAND?
THE LOCAL HOBBY SHOP HAS OIL ADDITIVE IN THE CAR SECTION BUT I COULDN'T FIGURE OUT WHAT IT REALLY IS.
DAN
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You have to assume there is no Castor in the lube oil the cars run. It is up to you to add an equal amount of Castor to your fuel bringing it up to a 50/50 mix for the lube The pecentage of oil to fuel is not critical so if you get a little under or over, don't sweat it. What you want to wind up with is about 22 percent total oil with at least half or more being Castor. In fact the more Castor the better for these older engines. The Cox and Fox Engines thrive on it.
Robert
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Can I buy castor oil at the drug store? Do I need to look for something on the label?
Or do I need to get it from SIg? Used to be "Baker AAA" castor oil.
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i buy it at motorcycle shop. maxima brand .been using it for years and has worked for me.
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Thanks I'll go there.
Dan
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You can also get Sig Champion fuel in various nitro %. Champion is 50/50 synthetic and castor with a totatl of 20% oil.
If you order quarts, there is no hazmat fees.