Author Topic: 1/2A fierce Arrow (Read 50305 times)

Roger Vizioli · « **Reply #300 on:** February 24, 2007, 11:11:05 AM »

Ray,

drinking coffee, looking @ plans and posts.
ref your layout posted on #277 for the larger wing.
"IF" the ply carry through that you have was cut per original plan layout, LE will not mate to the entire front edge of the carry through as it (the LE) is moved fwd slightly (gap opens) as you go toward wingtip.
We can either insert a small wedge as a gap filler or custom cut the LE, ie. sides not parallel at carry through area. In either case, thin ply doublers, CF or F'glass over this joint top and bottom might also be a consideration.
Roger

frank carlisle · « **Reply #301 on:** February 24, 2007, 11:32:00 AM »

good call Roger. Ray and I are already too far along to recut the carry through. For me -- I'm building this one stock so I'm good and when I start "our" version I'll cut the carry through to match the new wing layout. Ray could add a wedge of 1/16 balsa to the LE of his carry through and sand to match new wing layout.

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #302 on:** February 24, 2007, 12:26:02 PM »

Guys, I'm 'way ahead of you on this one...I cut my "carry-through" according to my layout; it'll match. Plainly, if the angle of the wing sweep is changed, the angle of the brace/splice/whatever that supports it must be changed along with it. I can send you a pattern if you need it. Or I can post a dimensioned drawing of it per the formers #1 & 2 before.
whatever suits your fancy. Just let me know what you need.

I've finished the rib layouts, at least preliminarily. I want to stack the printouts on my lightbox and see how everything matches; may be some tweaking yet to do. When I'm satisfied with them I'll mail each of you a set of prints (8 1/2x11).
They are set up for TE #3 in the earlier post; 1/8" sq. spars for the 2 aft, and 1/16"x1/8" on-edge for the front two. Set up with trim tabs for tabletop construction. If you want to use a jig you'll have to draw your own holes.

--Ray

frank carlisle · « **Reply #303 on:** February 24, 2007, 01:07:54 PM »

Good work Ray. I'll start the custom Arrow once you have the new rib layouts. Then it's a race to finish before the warm weather hits. We have a lot of new models to start test flying.

Auto-Gyro
Queen Bee
Snapper
Arrow

My My My ..............we been busy!!

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #304 on:** February 24, 2007, 04:18:27 PM »

Good, productive winter building season. It's been one of my most enjoyable in a long time. Thanks, guys.

I have the rib layouts ready to send, along with the carrythrough pattern. Roger, I need your mailing address--email me or use PM. I'll have the stuff in the mail Mon. AM (if I can dig my way out of this blizzard by then).

I've started cutting ribs...coming the crucial moment when I see if I can work around my installed gear or have to perform Frank's gear-ectomy.

Oh, nearly forgot--here's some pics of my tank plumbing, clunk style. The uniflow tubing slides loosely through a wire loop, keeps it close to the pickup but allows the clunk to freely work. I've used this system on my LIttleAxe(s) and it works perfectly. Only 2 tubes for simplicity's sake. Also fewer chances for leaks, etc.

--Ray

Roger Vizioli · « **Reply #305 on:** February 24, 2007, 05:03:35 PM »

Uhh, Frank,
re New planes to fly. You can mention the LA Heat on a 1/2A Forum

Ray, tank looks great. I will have to try that "Goop" approach. Snail mail address in e-mail to you.
"Sorta" thought you might have the LE/carry through built in your configuration as you never mentioned building the "standard" version.
Roger

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #306 on:** February 24, 2007, 09:27:38 PM »

Roger, got your address...Stuff in the mail Mon. Hope it gets there a little quicker than that last stuff!

I finished my tank, and worked out the cowl hold down. Pretty neat I think, I'll post some pictures of it tomorrow. Now just need to figure out some "cool" cooling holes. You have louvers, Frank...how 'bout some Buick-like portholes? Or some sort of grillework. You've set the "cuteness" bar pretty high.

Also have cut some ribs, and Frank, I think I can work around the gear as is. I'll be starting on the wing soon.

Blizzard conditions out there today, ending sometime tomorrow they say. First big snow we've had all winter. I haven't seen horizontal snow like this since I left Okla. How did the pioneers ever settle this country?

--Ray

frank carlisle · « **Reply #307 on:** February 24, 2007, 10:10:53 PM »

O.K.........LA HEAT!! there I said it.

Good work on the tank Ray. The pictures are an educaation in clunk venting. You're the McGyver of model aviation.

I'm interested to see what you do about the gear Ray....you are stubborn!!

Roger do you have a camera? and will you be posting pictures? Any wood cut yet?

Ray please include a srawing of the carry through with my stuff.

The weather man is teasing us with a snow storm here in Detroit. Still nothing.

Do you know why sex is like snow??

Roger Vizioli · « **Reply #308 on:** February 25, 2007, 05:39:23 AM »

Yes, I have a camera, will be posting.
Will try to fly this morning, then off to dog club for more training. 3 weeks 'til the Championship Trial.
No wood cut yet, put the Bislob on bench for some repairs, will test fly today.
Horizontal snow - I think I remember that!
Ray, please dont drive in the bad weather just to mail the patterns. I can wait as I have enough to do before needing them.
Roger

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #309 on:** February 25, 2007, 05:46:24 AM »

Roger..."Will try to fly this morning"...you really know how to rub it in!! Florida, hmphf. I just looked out (Sun. 6:00 AM) at probably 12" of snow, more coming down, drifting like crazy. But the streets are plowed! Ah, MN...

Frank...all patterns included.

I'll bite. Why is sex like snow?

--Ray

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #310 on:** February 25, 2007, 10:54:50 AM »

Meanwhile, the cowl saga continues...here's my holddown solution: A nylon clevis with one arm cut off, anchored to the back of the firewall with a wood screw, just the right height for the underside of the cowl to rest on. 2-56 short screw countersunk in cowl (ply. insert glued in from underside) that threads into clevis. Good?

Last couple of pics just thrown in for fun...and do you think I have enough front opening area?

--Ray

frank carlisle · « **Reply #311 on:** February 25, 2007, 12:09:47 PM »

Very clever hold down Ray. That should hold 'er. Nice lines on the nose. Now if Jan would just hustle up on the spinners!!

What are the holes in the bottom of the tank compartment for?

Air inlet seems sufficient. Where does the air exit?

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #312 on:** February 25, 2007, 01:26:11 PM »

No exit as yet, I'm still mulling over just how to do it "cutely". the forward hole in the tank floor is to accept the lip of the lid on the tank, so it'll clear the top of the cowl. Wider than it needs to be because I first had the tank against the firewall, then moved it back to make room for a holddown. The aft hole is left over from my aborted attempt to use my existing oval tank, which has a bulging seam midway down where I joined 2 cannisters together. Turned out not to be enough clearance anyhow unless I cut out the entire floor which I was not willing to do, afraid it would compromise the strength of the unit. But I didn't patch it 'cause I didn't think anyone would ever see it...shoulda airbrushed it out I guess. Whew, lotsa explanation for a couple of itty bitty holes!

You still haven't answered your own riddle. That's just cruel.

--Ray

frank carlisle · « **Reply #313 on:** February 26, 2007, 04:58:12 AM »

It'll be interesting to see your cute air outlet. I did a smoke test on mine and the air goes straight through. The louvers dissipate it very nicely. The engines should sound pretty cool inside the pods as I see niether of us has an opening anywhere near the exhaust port on the engine. So the pod is a muffler.

You have a very tight fit for your tank, From the looks of it, just attaching the cowl will hold the tank in place.

Today I'll be starting work in a basement--rewiring for lights and outlets and installing a new ceiling. Should be fun!!

I plan to work at least an hour every evening on my Arrow. You guys keep me posted on your progress.

Roger Vizioli · « **Reply #314 on:** February 26, 2007, 09:09:08 AM »

Ray,
Are you going to put a small dowel/pin in rear of cowl block to go through a small hole in top of F-2 to align and anchor rear of cowl?
Roger

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #315 on:** February 26, 2007, 11:24:22 AM »

Quote from: Roger Vizioli on February 26, 2007, 09:09:08 AM

Ray,
Are you going to put a small dowel/pin in rear of cowl block to go through a small hole in top of F-2 to align and anchor rear of cowl?
Roger

No, I'm not, for just the reason Frank mentioned...my tank/fuse sides/cowl fit is so snug I won't need anything else for alignment. Otherwise I would use something to hold the back of the cowl straight, and your suggestion is a good one.

Guys, I got the patterns in the mail this AM. You oughtta get them by Wed.-Thurs. anyway. I'm about ready to start the wing construction; I'll let you know how my rib tabs work out.

One thing I didn't mention on the wing layout--kind of important since the rib patterns are sized for it: Rib R1 lays against the fuse side of course; rib R2 is spaced to accomodate 4" wide planking (2" from centerline to outside edge of rib). Depending on what you use for fuse width, that will vary a fraction, not enough to hurt, somewhere around 1 1/4" from R1. But if you try instead to set R2 for 5" of planking as plans show, it ain't gonna fit...in length and spar spacing both. Then the rest of the ribs are set at 3" on center, FROM THE WINGTIP, which you remember is 16" from fuse centerline. . That leaves a narrower space between R2 and R3, say 2". Look at my wing layout again and you'll see. Clear? I probably shoulda included a rib spacing diagram with the patterns.

--Ray

Roger Vizioli · « **Reply #316 on:** February 26, 2007, 08:04:13 PM »

Ray,
Thanks for mailing the patterns, will advise when received.
Understand your rib spacing/center sheeting info. Thanks, Roger

frank carlisle · « **Reply #317 on:** February 26, 2007, 08:13:35 PM »

Roger, That step in the fuselage side does the same job as a pin would. Get a tight fit between the matching surfaces of the step and the cowl won't go anywhere. BTW.....got that check you sent. I like the way you itemized the whole thing to the last cent and then paid more. I wasn't going to ask to be recompensed at all--just having you join the build was payment enough. Thank you.

Thanks for sending the patterns Ray. I'll do what Roger did and send you a reimbursement.

Clear?? You ask? I'll pay attention to the rib spacing as I go. Get some pictures of the wing construction Ray.

I feel the need to make progress on my LA Heat. So I set the Arrow aside for a couple days.

Roger Vizioli · « **Reply #318 on:** February 26, 2007, 08:23:06 PM »

I'm in the "gathering mode". Wood, plans, ideas, notes............
Will start on Nose Assy this week/weekend.
Roger

frank carlisle · « **Reply #319 on:** February 26, 2007, 08:56:55 PM »

Quote from: Roger Vizioli on February 26, 2007, 08:23:06 PM

I'm in the "gathering mode". Wood, plans, ideas, notes............
Will start on Nose Assy this week/weekend.
Roger

I might be able to keep up with you, if you wait till the weekend to start.

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #320 on:** February 27, 2007, 03:29:59 AM »

Quote from: frank carlisle on February 26, 2007, 08:13:35 PM

Thanks for sending the patterns Ray. I'll do what Roger did and send you a reimbursement.

Frank, don't send me anything, it didn't cost me anything but enjoyment. The fun of building with you guys is payment plenty.

--Ray

Roger Vizioli · « **Reply #321 on:** February 27, 2007, 06:39:52 AM »

Frank, Ray,

More coffee, more "thinking".
The LE sheeting, being 1/32", looks like a "potential" problem at the LE.
Connecting upper and lower LE sheeting - The seam between upper and lower sheeting only has 1/16" mating surface on front of LE and it will require sanding and forming (not much material will remain).
Looking at possible approaches for strengthening without changing the rib design/layout that Ray did, such as (not in priority order, yet!);
* Build per plan, add a filler block of balsa or foam, on top and bottom of LE, between each rib and sand to shape before sheeting.
or,
* Do we want the LE to extend 1/32" fwd of the rib structure so that sheeting mates to the top and bottom of LE? Can still use "filler blocks" as above but have to sand to fit before gluing them in place. Could use a dummy LE section to provide the support to the foam/balsa while doing this.
or,
* Forming LE sheeting to wrap around LE. Problem here is that the width of LE sheeting has to be at least 8" at the inboard end, actually more for fab then trim to fit. We could butt multiple pieces and have the seams located over the spars, but... I dont like "seams". Also, it is labor intensive as it requires the form for molding.

Just some food for thought!
Roger

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #322 on:** February 27, 2007, 07:55:53 AM »

Roger, the intended design is for the LE to extend about 1/16" beyond the rib ends (rib patterns are set up that way); the 1/32" sheeting is to be butted up to, and glued to, the flat surface of the LE...the entire front edge of the LE piece should be exposed. Then some minimal sanding/shaping completes the LE assembly. Not a problem; it's a method used on many designs. But keep thinking!

Here's an easy system for attaching the Le sheeting: Using yellow wood glue (but Elmer's would probably work too--I just haven't tried it), I put a liberal bead of glue on all the mating surfaces on the wing--LE, rib tops, spars. I then carefully press the sheeting into place, as close as I can get it to its final position...then pull it back off. I check to see that the glue has left continuous beads on the underside of the sheeting--I fill in any gaps. Then lay it aside and let everything dry (apart). Then get your covering iron, or your wife's clothes iron, position the sheeting exactly where it should go, and press it on with the iron. The dried yellow glue becomes a heat-sensitive adhesive. Instant bond, all glue joints continuous, no pin holes! Works like a charm.

JUst thought I'd toss that in while we're on the subject of LEs.

--Ray

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #323 on:** February 27, 2007, 03:13:03 PM »

I got a start on the wing, here's a few pictures. I first glued the 1/8" sq. TE piece onto one of the 1/32" TE strips, see 3rd pic. Then ribs R1 were glued to the front fuselage; and to the lower TE strip, butting up against the 1/8" sq. piece, see 2nd pic. As stated before, I had to hang the gear off the edge of the table, but it's working fine. Notice the construction tabs on the ribs, pic #4. Also the 1/32" spacer under the front edge of TE strip--I used a similar strip cut--and ruined--earlier (more about that in a moment). Especially for you, Frank, is pic. #5--my R1 notches around the gear. I'll notch the LE sheeting similarly. Maybe glue a balsa block into the hole that's left, maybe not--TBDL!

A word of warning concerning the strips, both LE and TE: If you cut your own from stock, as I assume you will, be prepared for the newly-cut strip to curve when stresses in the grain are relieved in the cutting. It could be forceed back into line when building the wing, but that's just asking for warps. I finally cut mine overwidth (up to 7/8" wide) to give room for trimming both edges to regain straightness. Yes, that means I had to cut each strip 3 times. Kind of a minor pain, but well worth the little extra effort to have straight pieces.

The next step will be to glue in the tip rib, then the LE since I can then attach it at both ends, followed by intermediate ribs. Then I unpin the entire mess and move it over to do the other wing since my styrofoam sheet isn't wide enough.

Oh, I also threw in a dimensioned wing layout, to clarify my description of rib spacings above.

--Ray

frank carlisle · « **Reply #324 on:** February 27, 2007, 04:13:16 PM »

Good start Ray..........Now I am the one falling behind.

Good move on the notch for the LG. I kinda thought it would go like that. Excellent stubborn guy solution, kudos.

I will need to pick up balsa this weekend---will you please keep track of how many sheets of what is required so I can have a shopping list?

It looks like you get to build the wing the same as any other model. So we've gotten past the toughest part of the construction. Of course I'm sure the rest of the fuselage will be a challenge.

Looks like we my set a record here for the longest thread Ray. It's our own record we're breaking isn't it?

Roger Vizioli · « **Reply #325 on:** February 27, 2007, 07:24:19 PM »

Quote from: minnesotamodeler on February 27, 2007, 07:55:53 AM

Roger, the intended design is for the LE to extend about 1/16" beyond the rib ends (rib patterns are set up that way); the 1/32" sheeting is to be butted up to, and glued to, the flat surface of the LE...the entire front edge of the LE piece should be exposed. Then some minimal sanding/shaping completes the LE assembly. Not a problem; it's a method used on many designs. But keep thinking! Great! Understand. When I scaled the print, the LE did not extend past the ribs.

Here's an easy system for attaching the Le sheeting: Using yellow wood glue (but Elmer's would probably work too--I just haven't tried it), I put a liberal bead of glue on all the mating surfaces on the wing--LE, rib tops, spars. I then carefully press the sheeting into place, as close as I can get it to its final position...then pull it back off. I check to see that the glue has left continuous beads on the underside of the sheeting--I fill in any gaps. Then lay it aside and let everything dry (apart). Then get your covering iron, or your wife's clothes iron, position the sheeting exactly where it should go, and press it on with the iron. The dried yellow glue becomes a heat-sensitive adhesive. Instant bond, all glue joints continuous, no pin holes! Works like a charm.

JUst thought I'd toss that in while we're on the subject of LEs. I've never tried this, heard of it, will try it on this one. Roger
--Ray

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #326 on:** February 27, 2007, 10:01:13 PM »

Got the tip rib and LE on, I'll post some pics tomorrow. What with all the spars and sheeting, Frank, this wing is not quite the typical build. Very interesting, and going together without a hitch. Those construction tabs help a lot.

Roger, turns out there's more like 1/8" of LE in front of the ribs...plenty to glue to and shape. The notches maybe could have been a little deeper; I made them 9/16" for the 5/8" LE, but didn't take into account the angle, which would have left about enough of the LE exposed by itself. Well, better too much than not enough, I always say--you can cut it off but you can't often stretch it...

And Frank, I've been studying the remaining fuselage portion; there's gonna be a challenge there, for sure. We'll talk more aobut it when we get there, but I don't think the toughest part is behind us. I'm looking forward to tackling it.

--Ray

frank carlisle · « **Reply #327 on:** February 28, 2007, 06:06:31 AM »

According to the magazine construction story. You'll want to generate a pattern for the fuselage sides by tracing along the wing to fuselage joint before you install the center sheeting.

Roger Vizioli · « **Reply #328 on:** February 28, 2007, 08:20:52 AM »

Ray,
Thanks for the rib slot/LE info.

Sanding a slight taper on the LE sheeting at the LE side will also increase contact area.
Roger

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #329 on:** February 28, 2007, 10:25:44 AM »

More wing progress: The promised shots of the tip rib/LE; then with all ribs in (on one side). No surprises or problems so far; looks like the spars will align perfectly.

Oh--the aft 1/8" notches on rib R6 (first in from tip) will need to be shallower to maintain integrity of the rib (so it doesn't get cut in half!). I cut mine about 1/16" deep or slightly more; will have to taper the spars as they come together at the tip.

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #330 on:** February 28, 2007, 04:19:05 PM »

OK, I've been properly humbled...my notches aren't perfect. I've had to shave about 1/32" to 1/16" off various sides of 4 or 5 of them to let the spars lie straight. Probably not a big deal to let them wave back and forth a little, especially the ones under the LE sheeting that won't be seen anyway; but I don't want to give this wing ANY EXCUSE to warp. So I'm sighting down the spars and adjusting notches until they lay relaxed. Seems the slightest variation on rib position, or even if it leans just a little, throws the notches off. So be prepared to adjust as needed.

--Ray

--Ray

frank carlisle · « **Reply #331 on:** February 28, 2007, 05:01:12 PM »

You're doing great Ray......Shaving a little off a notch here and there ain't no big deal.....

Your plane is coming together very nicely.

Now how about giving me material list?

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #332 on:** February 28, 2007, 08:03:37 PM »

3 sheets of 1/16"x4"x36" balsa, 4 sheets of 1/32"x4"x36" balsa, 5 sticks of 1/8"x1/8"x36" balsa (4 for spars, 1 for TE), I suppose you'll strip your own 1/16"x1/8" but I splurged and bought some ready-cut, need 4 of them too. Lotsa Xacto #11s. I cut my own 5/8" wise LE from 1/16" and TE from 1/32", with associated curving problems noted earlier. Be aware (be wary, beware).

I tried something a little different on the ribs: I stacked 4 pieces of rough-sized 1/16" balsa and cut half-ribs, split longitudinally, so I only had to cut half of the notches etc. and only once for each pair of ribs; then glued 2 halves together (twice). You can see the joints in the wing pics above if you look close. Makes for an exactly symmetrical rib. No doubt a little heavier what with the glue joint. But a little stiffer too. But I don't think it was any less labor-intensive which was my point. Don't think I'll do it again.

--Ray

Roger Vizioli · « **Reply #333 on:** February 28, 2007, 08:37:33 PM »

Ray,
No rib patterns in today's mail.

Your, and Frank's, "trail blazing" and photo's should make my build easier.

Read most, printed appropriate, posts today, had a few laughs.
Have we named it yet? ie Half arrow or ??
Roger

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #334 on:** March 01, 2007, 02:42:13 AM »

Roger, we sorta landed on "Frankenstone Arrow" unofficially (I have no idea what it would take to make it "official"!) since it's someone else's design bashed by us. I think "Half Arrow" has already been used.

Be sure and post pics when you get your start.

--Ray

Roger Vizioli · « **Reply #335 on:** March 01, 2007, 09:24:25 PM »

Ray,
Mail arrived today!

Many thanks. Started laying out parts on wood.
Roger

frank carlisle · « **Reply #336 on:** March 02, 2007, 06:29:04 AM »

I'm feeling like a delinquent for not participating in the build these last few days guys. Sorry.
I'm checking in on our thread every day and following the progress. Ray you're moving right along but Roger has some catching up to do.
I like Frankenstone Arrow but it will be hard to get all that on this little wing.

I've been masking the bottom of my LA Heat. That does take some time!! And I'm in the middle of giving a basement a facelift, so I'm down to only an hour or two a day for modeling. I have the weekend free and I should be able to get ribs cut while I let the dope gas off on the twin.

Keep up the good work fellows.

Roger Vizioli · « **Reply #337 on:** March 02, 2007, 08:24:01 AM »

Ray,
Mailed something (via USPS) to you , today.

Roger

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #338 on:** March 02, 2007, 08:33:07 AM »

Quote from: frank carlisle on March 02, 2007, 06:29:04 AM

I'm feeling like a delinquent for not participating in the build these last few days guys. Sorry.
I'm checking in on our thread every day and following the progress. Ray you're moving right along but Roger has some catching up to do.
I like Frankenstone Arrow but it will be hard to get all that on this little wing.

Frank, you haven't been paying attention...this is not a "little" wing! at 34" span and nearly 13" chord counting the flaps. That's 330 sq. in. MOL to write a name on. Maybe you been looking at your LA Heat too long, anything looks small compared to that.

I got the wing all framed up and ready for sheeting; it looks really good. Next step I'm thinking is to install the BC/leadouts, and LO guide--I think I'll do an adjustable one a la the LittleAxe, over-and-under. Then LE sheeting; then time to tackle the fuselage proper.

This is a very interesting and fun plane to build; I think it'll be impressive when finished--I hope it flies well. It is *big* for a 1/2A (3/4A?); if we can keep them in the 10-12 oz. range the wing loading will be super low. Should make for some nice corners.

I hope you guys enjoy putting in spars--there's 16 of 'em, not counting the 2-piece LE and 3-piece TE. Along about the 10th spar or so I was beginning to get a little tired of it; 6 still left to go! As bad as building a bi- or tri-wing, labor-intensive. I'll post some pics later, probably tonight.

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #339 on:** March 02, 2007, 08:36:02 AM »

Quote from: Roger Vizioli on March 02, 2007, 08:24:01 AM

Ray,
Mailed something (via USPS) to you , today.
Roger

Oooo, I love surprises! Thanks, whatever it is. Glad the patterns finally got there. I'll probably take a break from the FA now, to fab some handles for orders, so you and Frank can catch up. I wanna see pictures!

--Ray

--

frank carlisle · « **Reply #340 on:** March 02, 2007, 01:50:44 PM »

Here's a picture we've been waiting to see..............

Roger Vizioli · « **Reply #341 on:** March 02, 2007, 02:31:25 PM »

Frank,
Very nice!!!!!!!!!!

Check your e-mail.
Roger

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #342 on:** March 02, 2007, 02:45:46 PM »

Hey Frank,

Is that 1 1/8" dia.? Very nice. Next question: How much?? And how long (time-wise, that is)?

--Ray

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #343 on:** March 02, 2007, 02:59:01 PM »

Here's my current stage...

frank carlisle · « **Reply #344 on:** March 02, 2007, 02:59:42 PM »

Quote from: minnesotamodeler on March 02, 2007, 02:45:46 PM

Hey Frank,

Is that 1 1/8" dia.? Very nice. Next question: How much?? And how long (time-wise, that is)?

--Ray

I think it's 1 and a eighth. Don't know how much. I'll see Jan tomorrow and get all the details. Plus the weight. He may or may not want to make more. If he does and if you get one, hang onto it. Because they'll be the only ones in the world.

You need to post a picture of the Bearcat. It looks like a possible on-line build to me.

frank carlisle · « **Reply #345 on:** March 02, 2007, 03:02:44 PM »

I'll take two kits Ray................

How about a shot of the LG knockout?

It looks fantastic!!

bob branch · « **Reply #346 on:** March 02, 2007, 03:09:29 PM »

Wow there's a mess of stringers in that thing!

No doubt where I'd be on a deal like that:

I'll just keep working on my Strega. Covered it today. First post covering coat of clear tonight.

Keep it up guys. It sure is interesting to watch.

Bob Branch

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #347 on:** March 02, 2007, 03:30:11 PM »

Here ya go, Frank...

also, an attempt at showing the TE construction per Roger's idea.. worked really great. 1/8" sq. sandwiched between 1/32" x 5/8" strips.

Also, a detail of how I brought the 1/8" sq. diagonal spars together at the TE, tip. Partially notched for the rib R6, tapered from there to 1/16" thick at tip.

Also, a detail of the center section spar joinings. I had to cut the top 1/16"x1/8" spars short at R2 to clear my tank sticking through there.

--Ray

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #348 on:** March 02, 2007, 03:46:08 PM »

Oh, one thing I keep forgetting to mention...the entire structure as it sits weighs 3 1/2 oz...with wheels, with tank and cowl, sans engine. I'm thinking 10-11 oz. is feasible! And at the same time it's surprisingly solid. This thing is structurally well-engineered (not by me).

--Ray

frank carlisle · « **Reply #349 on:** March 02, 2007, 03:54:28 PM »

Ray that sure is a purdy construction!! I like all the stringers. That LG notch isn't going to be a problem at all, is it?
Very well done Ray. I hope I can make mine that nice.

I got the rib package today by the way. Thanks Ray.