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Author Topic: SLC OVER Polyspan?  (Read 29701 times)
Motorman
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« Reply #100 on: July 24, 2016, 10:03:38 AM »

Fred check out Coverite Microlite, it comes in colors. If your silk comes out really tight you could coat it dry.
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« Reply #101 on: August 14, 2016, 12:43:50 AM »

Today it was over 90 deg. out, and still no hint of slackness or wrinkles in the covering. The plane was left in full sun, not hidden in the tree shade at Whittier Narrows. Grin

That is at least 6 days in the sun, now.

Oh, btw I scored 444.5 in Old Time. That's the good news. The bad news is that was only good enough for fourth.  Head bang
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« Reply #102 on: September 22, 2016, 05:00:40 PM »

Nearly 18,000 views and two guys have tried it? What is so hard? Buid a Brodak 1/2 A ARF Clown and try it out.

A: It is a fun plane to own. ( Cox, Norvel, Brodak and AP Wasp all fit, saw off the nose and add a firewall for Cox reed engines, surely you have ONE of the above?)

B: It is quick and cheap. 35 ft Spiderwire lines and an 1/8" ply handle with 2" line spacing certainly won't break the budget.

C: If it sucks,you can strip it easily and do something else. Not like 6 months doping and polishing for appearance points were at stake.

Come on, where is your sense of adventure?
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Vince Judd
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« Reply #103 on: October 01, 2016, 08:45:49 AM »

I wanted to try this on the fuselage of my new Crossfire.  I'm just wondering, since it's all balsa, no open bays like a wing surface, do I gain anything by using the Polyspan under the SLC covering or can I just use the SLC and then paint it?  Thinking about the weight savings by just going with the SLC.

Thanks
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« Reply #104 on: October 01, 2016, 10:11:10 AM »

Although I posted a photo of my finished Berekely Lancer in the Build Section, I thought I'd also post it here.  Wing is finished with SLC over polyspan.  It came out beautiful.  I'm really getting to like this method for my sport planes with open bay wings.  Fuse and tail feathers were painted with Duplicolor Paint Shop and cleared with 2 part auto. 


* Lancer-2.jpg (165.48 KB, 800x585 - viewed 172 times.)
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« Reply #105 on: October 02, 2016, 07:02:09 AM »

WOW! Nice.  y1

I think just SLC alone on solid wood parts is all you need.
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« Reply #106 on: October 02, 2016, 09:59:07 AM »

Although I posted a photo of my finished Berekely Lancer in the Build Section, I thought I'd also post it here.  Wing is finished with SLC over polyspan.  It came out beautiful.  I'm really getting to like this method for my sport planes with open bay wings.  Fuse and tail feathers were painted with Duplicolor Paint Shop and cleared with 2 part auto. 

That is a beautiful finish.  Can you give more detail as to how you achieved it?  How did you prep the fuse and tail feathers?  Which 2 part auto clear did you use?

Thanks,

Vince
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« Reply #107 on: October 03, 2016, 04:30:27 PM »

Vince:

Fuselage and tail feathers were finished with nitrate, carbon veil, then several coats of Eze-kote finishing resin (http://www.horizonhobby.com/eze-kote-finishing-resin--500-ml-dlmbd37) followed by Duplicolor rattle can gray primer.  Color was Dupli-Color Paint Shop lacquer paint then the 2 part auto clear coat.  Clear is ACL-7200-5L by Axis performance coatings.

The Eze-kote is similar to water-based poly but cures much faster and sands very nicely.   
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« Reply #108 on: November 17, 2016, 11:31:23 PM »

 How did you do the decals? That is a great looking model!

What prep did you do for the paint over SLC?  Huh
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« Reply #109 on: November 18, 2016, 08:34:34 AM »

Although I posted a photo of my finished Berekely Lancer in the Build Section, I thought I'd also post it here.  Wing is finished with SLC over polyspan.  It came out beautiful.  I'm really getting to like this method for my sport planes with open bay wings.  Fuse and tail feathers were painted with Duplicolor Paint Shop and cleared with 2 part auto. 

Omg that looks amazing!
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« Reply #110 on: November 18, 2016, 09:10:15 AM »

Yes it does...

I usually hate cloth hinges but those blended in very well

Starting to get enough dry air days here to try my hand at a SLC over silk or poly wing

This Lancer inspired me to get things set up
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« Reply #111 on: November 18, 2016, 07:08:02 PM »

Decal was made on my vinyl cutter.  Scanned the image, traced it in AutoCad, then cut it out with the cutter.  It's all about the tools you know!
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« Reply #112 on: November 18, 2016, 07:12:09 PM »

Although you can paint directly over the SLC, I didn't want a ridge where the SLC ended so I covered the portion I was going to paint with carbon veil adhered with Eze-Kote.
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« Reply #113 on: November 19, 2016, 08:37:10 PM »

Ummmm, did you then sand a taper down to the SLC surface? I am not clear on the exact process. It looks like you have a winner, though. Please detail it out step by step for those of us of feeble brain (see Winnie thr Poo for reference). I want my next one to look that good! 
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« Reply #114 on: November 21, 2016, 10:48:44 AM »

Applied the CF veil, then several coats of Eze-kote, sanding between coats until smooth.  Primed with DC-540 primer with the rest of the parts to be painted, then color coats.  The ridge between the painted surface and the clear SLC film is at the red pinstripe line and not very noticeable.
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« Reply #115 on: December 30, 2016, 01:13:34 PM »

What is EZ-Kote? I never heard of it.  Huh
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« Reply #116 on: December 30, 2016, 05:17:29 PM »

What is EZ-Kote? I never heard of it.  Huh

https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/gb/rc-modelling/82-eze-kote-5060243900746.html

It's a pretty cool water based finishing resin.  It is not like Minwax Polycrylic.  The viscosity is thicker and it dries quite rapidly.  Sands well too.  It smells totally different from polycrylic, also.

There are some good videos of it in use on youtube. 
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« Reply #117 on: January 09, 2017, 03:15:40 PM »

I see that Horizon Hobby is a distributor, which implies that virtually any LHS should be able to get this stuff, or we can order direct from HH. So, I assume that Brent has used this stuff already? Has Gordy D. or Norm W. tried it? I noticed that they said "fuel resistant" and that does concern me a bit. I'd prefer "impervious", ya know!  Roll Steve
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« Reply #118 on: March 27, 2017, 08:22:51 PM »

My Ringmaster is now over a year old and still sag free!  No hangar rash or noticeable damage from two (count them, two) inverted landings on asphalt. (Note that I am Designman, not Pilotman)  Layingdown
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« Reply #119 on: March 28, 2017, 11:10:12 AM »

Well Larry, I haven't had a chance to try out my planes with the dopeless finish. 
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« Reply #120 on: March 28, 2017, 09:48:22 PM »

And you continue to live in a climate like that??? Well, The Peoples' Republic of Califonikstan is crowded enough, but there is lots of room left near Tucson. Trostle left a magnificent house there.  Turn
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« Reply #121 on: May 13, 2017, 08:42:49 AM »

Larry,

I'm getting ready to try monokote over polyspan. Do you dope the poly to individual ribs or just leading/trailing edge, tips, and center section?

 Jim
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« Reply #122 on: May 13, 2017, 09:55:35 AM »

Jim... just a butt inski here...but WHY?

Maybe I am not paying close enough attention

BUT--- I thought the exercise was to do a Fast and very Strong covering method--- USING poly/tissue/silk and then--- one of the super lite plastic coverings Like SLC, or thin FasCal/ mica film

IMO MonoKote---  or similar--- has already all the strength and color needed by it self

That said...I think the initial covering (tissue/poly span/silkspan/silk) is put on traditionally nice and tight on the perimeter and only ever needs stuck down to the ribs on a polywog rid set like a Ringmaster....all other rib types should be left free so the SLC/////ect,...can shrink and stick to the first covering without adding torque to the ribs or balsa wing

I use a lot of Poly span and silk on wings.

I think Larry Renger found a way for US to NOT have to add weight with Dope and Use the Lite coverings  (SLC/Doculam/FadCal) as the shiny top cote and the added benefit ...by accident...was that the composite of the two coverings saved time, looked good...and structurally was tougher than traditional method using dope to fill the paper/tissue/cloth

Bottom line is...IMO MonoKote covering does all this by itself.... But that said--- no MonoKote can look or be as strong as a traditional silk n dope method or Larry Rengers discovery method

EDITED in after sending...Jim I DO NOT intend this to sound as harsh or judgement as it does....

Just curious how you arrived at following this method to think about using MonoKote over something else.... mostly because early on, I GOT the notion Larry was trying to show four things...Light weight, faster, looks good, stronger (an accidental by product IMO)

And BTW
NOT TO take away from Larry-- But I think Bobby Mears, INDEPENDENTLY--- found a very similar method so he could rapidly finish dozens of Nostalgia combat planes for the Combat Museum...IIRK He experimentee with fogging the back side of SLC/FasCal/Doculam with paints to simulate the Silk n Dope finish and found it was just as easy to do a polyspan heat shrunk and then the plastic and looked just like a silk n dope finish
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« Reply #123 on: May 13, 2017, 12:59:56 PM »

Fred,

I want to try this for three reasons.

 1. Primarily I'm hoping that by creating a composite covering that bonds together as it shrinks I can avoid the dreaded monokote sag that happens in the Arizona sun.

 2. It seems like a great way to add strength with minimal weight gain and minimal additional time.

 3. I'm always up for experimenting with new techniques.

Jim
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« Reply #124 on: May 13, 2017, 01:55:06 PM »

Fully understand Jim....you are trading strength and durability for tightness and accepting the weight gain...

I might recommend Move on to Ultra kote as I think it holds it's tension better long term...I am in Texas with 130~150F on a 104F OAT day in the car is typical and the loosening of my films....all of them...is always an issue


OTOH I have read here that some think UltrKote is looser over time....not my personal experience but I only have 5 years experience/history to go by
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« Reply #125 on: May 14, 2017, 08:50:38 PM »

Jim, if you want color go browse the posts I have made using poly-ester cloth(from Jo-Anns Frabrics) and the clear mylar(SLC). 


* DSCN1260.JPG (97.71 KB, 312x234 - viewed 31 times.)
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« Reply #126 on: May 17, 2017, 12:30:30 PM »

Doping the ribs to smooth them out is good. Bonding the Polyspan to the ribs (when first covering) is bad because you want the material to slide around as it shrinks. Once shrunk, if you seal to the ribs using thinner would probably be OK and might improve torsional strength.  Do NOT dope the entire fabric covering as it adds weight and creates bubble areas in the top covering.

Old free-flighters may remember double covering large models. Silkspan lightly doped with an overlay of Japanese tissue bonded down to it. Easy to get a slick finish and remarkably strong.

For large models, Monokote over Polyspan would still be lighter than a conventional dope finish, easier, quicker, slicker (than I can do, anyway) and way stronger.
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