If you are satisfied with the way your silver undercoat looks just lightly sand to remove overspray and then apply color. The idea is to have a solid, consistent undercoat as any variations will show through the color coats, more with some colors than others. 

I agree w/ above post. Next project mix some silver with polar grey or better yet, polar grey and some white to make a lighter color primer. If looking for a filler/primer put in some of Randy's zinc sterate powder. Not too much so it will still spray easily. I also seal the primer/filler w/ a spray coat of clear to lock everything in. Others have different techniques, experiment until you find one that works for you. 

Shug,
Are you spraying KlassKote? If you are I would mist the silver with white just prior to spraying yellow. No sanding in-between coats, just keep within the re-coat period listed in the instructions.  Step on the white with thinner to keep the weight down. The white is a dry coat in the areas receiving red or yellow. KlassKote white is high solids, it doesn't take much to turn the silver white.

Using all Brodak dope on this project. I am going white on fuse and wings instead of silver. Thanks.

I never touch silver, that is going to show as part of the finish, with sandpaper. Period.

Derek

Thanks everybody.
Shug

I'm using Klasskote for the first time.  I,ve got my base color down and noticed a slight bit of orange peel. 
Can this product be wet sanded for a smoother finish?  I don't want to start sanding and ruin what I've laid down so far.  I plan on using 800, then 2000 grit
wet/dry 3M Imperial paper.

Yes it wet sands beautifully.  I use 800 only if its going to be overcoated and has dried more then 24 hours. After 24hrs succeeding coats need a tooth. under 24 they will chemically bond.

Typically, I shoot in the evening, wet sand and shoot another coat the next morning.

Klasskote was the band of finish I preferred to use although this is my first time.  I wanted a durable and glossy finish that would hold up to team racing.  The orange peel is ever so light and may polish out with a 2000 grit wet sanding.  It has been a few days since I sprayed on the base so will 800 grit provide enough of a bite for the trim colors?

I'm using Klasskote for the first time.  I,ve got my base color down and noticed a slight bit of orange peel.  
Can this product be wet sanded for a smoother finish?  I don't want to start sanding and ruin what I've laid down so far.  I plan on using 800, then 2000 grit
wet/dry 3M Imperial paper.

      You can certainly sand your base coat, in fact, you can be pretty aggressive with it. 800 seems a bit much, and 2000 is more like polishing than smoothing. I would suggest 1200 or so. I had a lot of orange peel in the white on my current airplane, and I really went at it - 600 *very lightly* to break the glaze, then 1200. I sand it until there are no shiny spots left.  If it is silver that is going to show, I would consider sanding it down and then spraying again with enough thinner to make sure you don't get more orange peel.

     BTW, one of the better finishers ever, the late Jim Tichy, came over to show Uncle Jimby how he did it. Note that this is Jim "20 Point" Aron, not some duffer. I cannot recommend this, but color-sanding the dope finish, he started with, I kid you not, *180*, very lightly of course.

     Brett

Quote from: Brett Buck on May 10, 2017, 11:50:40 PM

 
     BTW, one of the better finishers ever, the late Jim Tichy, came over to show Uncle Jimby how he did it. Note that this is Jim "20 Point" Aron, not some duffer. I cannot recommend this, but color-sanding the dope finish, he started with, I kid you not, *180*, very lightly of course.

   Brett

ARGGHHHH 180, wow thats something I would love to know how he came up with the idea to even try that, man, I dont think my 180 sees daylight once I put dope on,,

     That's what I thought about it, too, I can't see how you could ever be light enough, one grain could easily go through a coat of paint.

     Brett

One of Mr Urtnowskis thingo's ( on the Cradinal ?? ) goes on about mixing the silver with the dope ,
after the first two coats , so it builds as you go , and is semi translucent .

With the Sig COLOUR Dope , he talks on the tapes of leaving it standing for a year , so the colour goes into
the bottom half of the jar / can , then pouring off the top half ( clear now ) to get ' pigment enrichmwent .

   That technique is effective but very dangerous if you then attempt to use butyrate clear. At the factory, they put in all the pigment they can and still have decent adhesion and impermeability. Concentrating it means that there really isn't enough carrier (clear) to hold that much pigment. It works fine and covers better than normal. If you put a two-part clear (Imron at the time, some other car clear now), still no problem because the there is no penetration. If you put on clear in any more than a dust coat at a time, it melts into the color, and either everything shows through, or the adhesion is exceptionally poor.

     That's why two-part colors (like car base coat, Superpoxy, Hobbypoxy, Klassktote) cover so well - you can put VASTLY more pigment per unit volume because epoxy can take it and still have plenty of adhesion. Klass-Kote white comes out of the can about like cake icing, it's got so much pigment.  Thats also why, used properly, it's a bit lighter than dope for an equivalent finish - covers much better so you use less.  Of course, it also lasts much longer, too.

     Brett