Author Topic: Painting the P-40-ish/ARF Nobler (Read 17451 times)

wwwarbird · « **Reply #50 on:** January 06, 2016, 10:09:08 PM »

Not much going on other than a fair amount of thumb twiddling over the past few evenings, still waiting on the snail mail to bring the next piece of the puzzle. I did shoot a little clear over the canopy area and get the edges sanded smooth with some 1500. I also went around and touched up a few minor details but there wasn't much of it to deal with, which is good. The USPS tracking info tells me Monday, but I'm hoping for an early arrival.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #51 on:** January 07, 2016, 09:36:43 PM »

I'm watching this thread to see how it comes out Wayne. Better be up to your standards!

wwwarbird · « **Reply #52 on:** January 08, 2016, 09:16:38 PM »

Thanks Crist. Got the mail, back to work now...

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #53 on:** January 21, 2016, 08:26:57 PM »

Well?

wwwarbird · « **Reply #54 on:** January 21, 2016, 10:07:25 PM »

Yeah, I've definitely been slacking again on it. I've got everything on it and it's sitting in the shop prepped and all ready for final clear. I decided not to add any new pics until the heap is completely finished. I'm really not happy with the ink quality of the insignias I had made but they're on the plane and aren't coming back off. That disappointment kind of took the wind out of my sails the past week or so, well that and the food poisoning I was blessed with last Sunday night into Tuesday. Feeling better now, sneezing without fear, and plan on starting in with some clear this weekend.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #55 on:** January 22, 2016, 10:25:01 AM »

We are never happy with the final product.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #56 on:** January 22, 2016, 05:28:07 PM »

What do they say "finishes are never done, just abandoned".

wwwarbird · « **Reply #57 on:** January 22, 2016, 09:08:13 PM »

Quote from: Crist Rigotti on January 22, 2016, 05:28:07 PM

What do they say "finishes are never done, just abandoned".

Yep, an original quote from Mr. Powell I believe. I'm almost there.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #58 on:** January 23, 2016, 09:29:37 PM »

Not me. The quote was stolen from Windy Urtnowski.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #59 on:** January 24, 2016, 12:23:51 AM »

Oh, I guess that's just where I'd first heard it. Whatever the case, it seems to hold true every time.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #60 on:** January 24, 2016, 07:43:37 PM »

Pretty much.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #61 on:** January 26, 2016, 08:54:11 PM »

Finally got around to airbrushing some clear around the edges of the graphics tonight. This is just to make sure they get sealed down well and also help smooth the transition. I usually do two or three heavy but "dry" coats per session, let it dry overnight, and then feather sand with 1500. A couple more rounds of that and then it will be ready for a good overall final coat of clear, hopefully by the weekend. Sigh.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #62 on:** January 27, 2016, 09:02:46 PM »

One step forward, two steps back, the story of this build. Just below the canopy I had added some Kamikaze flag "kill" markings from Major Decal. They only come in waterslide but I figured I'd still be able to carefully "dry" spray a few clear coats over them and get away with it. I figured wrong.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #63 on:** January 27, 2016, 10:41:08 PM »

Bummer!

TigreST · « **Reply #64 on:** January 27, 2016, 11:59:30 PM »

Quote from: wwwarbird on January 27, 2016, 09:02:46 PM

One step forward, two steps back, the story of this build. Just below the canopy I had added some Kamikaze flag "kill" markings from Major Decal. They only come in waterslide but I figured I'd still be able to carefully "dry" spray a few clear coats over them and get away with it. I figured wrong.

Not sure what your issue is but.... You might try to put down some sticky tape over the damaged decal and see if it might lift the decal off, even with the clear coat over it. Work sometimes for the plastic model guys (like me).

Tony

wwwarbird · « **Reply #65 on:** January 28, 2016, 07:38:36 PM »

Quote from: TigreST on January 27, 2016, 11:59:30 PM

Not sure what your issue is but.... You might try to put down some sticky tape over the damaged decal and see if it might lift the decal off, even with the clear coat over it. Work sometimes for the plastic model guys (like me).

Tony

I tried the sticky tape idea first and it didn't phase them. I used to spray/seal decals all the time in my old plastic modeling days too, that's why I figured I'd be able to sneak up on this with some dry coats and have it work. Not to be, the thinned clear was a little too much, the decals wrinkled up and started to disintegrate almost immediately. After letting the mess dry overnight I just now finished sanding them off, feathering the area back in, and touching up the Olive Drab. That came out pretty well, thankfully the O.D. is a very forgiving color when it comes to touch up work. I've got a "Plan B" to get them back on there, it's just going to put me a couple more days behind before the final clear can go on. Around and around we go...

wwwarbird · « **Reply #66 on:** February 05, 2016, 08:29:24 PM »

Apparently, I'm just never supposed to finish this plane...

So, I got through the kill flag marking ordeal, getting that area all touched up and I've got them back on now. This time I added a piece of super thin clear vinyl over them, cut from the corner of a Sig U.S. Insignia sheet, so now the clear dope will go over them ok. After that, standing back and staring the whole thing down, it still needed something. A lot of the early P-40's had a large white I.D. number marking on the fuse sides. I decided to add that detail. I settled on the number 160, the number that was on the side of Lt George Welch's plane at Pearl Harbor, he was the first one in the air during the attack.

Anyway, I ordered a pair of the 160's in vinyl and was expecting them early last week. My buddy spaced out the order so they finally came just today. I scurried right down to put them on tonight, laying down a tape line for an alignment reference like I always do. Got'em on with a little soapy water and squeegeed them out just fine. When I pulled the reference tape line up it also took up a nice chunk of paint right between the 160 number and the canopy "glass" paint on the outboard side. F--K! I got out the 1500 again, sanded it down, and then hit the area with the airbrush. When that dries I'll feather it back in with 1500, give the 160's a few dry coats of clear, and the thing should finally be ready for the final clear.

The first pic here is from fixing up the area where the kill markings had gotten messed up. The other two are from tonight, fixing up the spot above the 160...

Clint Ormosen · « **Reply #67 on:** February 05, 2016, 08:35:06 PM »

I'm learning a few things here.

I totally dig this plane, Wayne!

wwwarbird · « **Reply #68 on:** February 05, 2016, 08:45:08 PM »

Quote from: Clint Ormosen on February 05, 2016, 08:35:06 PM

I totally dig this plane, Wayne!

Thanks Clint. I'm pretty close to digging a hole for it!

Randy Powell · « **Reply #69 on:** February 05, 2016, 09:21:36 PM »

Yea, your getting down to the point were you just want it done. I completely understand.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #70 on:** February 06, 2016, 10:18:11 AM »

You must be kidding about digging a hole for it. If it is not up to your standards, send it to the old DOC. I'm used to imperfections. Just ask the guys that have seen my planes.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #71 on:** February 06, 2016, 01:53:32 PM »

Wayne,
Do you think that by using an airbrush, you are putting the dope on too dry, hence the pull up? I use an airbrush for my trim and I'm careful not to put on a light coat for the first coat. I think that a "wetter" coat will adhere better to the base color that way.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #72 on:** February 06, 2016, 02:03:10 PM »

Quote from: Crist Rigotti on February 06, 2016, 01:53:32 PM

Wayne,
Do you think that by using an airbrush, you are putting the dope on too dry, hence the pull up? I use an airbrush for my trim and I'm careful not to put on a light coat for the first coat. I think that a "wetter" coat will adhere better to the base color that way.

or better slower thinner,,

wwwarbird · « **Reply #73 on:** February 06, 2016, 11:30:04 PM »

Quote from: Crist Rigotti on February 06, 2016, 01:53:32 PM

Wayne,
Do you think that by using an airbrush, you are putting the dope on too dry, hence the pull up? I use an airbrush for my trim and I'm careful not to put on a light coat for the first coat. I think that a "wetter" coat will adhere better to the base color that way.

Nah, it must have just been a fluke little spot, I've been making sure to use plenty of thinner and everything through this paint job. I'm just chalking it up to Murphy's Law this time. It's gonna get DONE this next week, for sure, I think, unless, if...

Randy Powell · « **Reply #74 on:** February 07, 2016, 12:16:00 AM »

Yea, I was pulling tape on my classic plane and it pulled paint in a couple of spots. I have no idea why. Fine everywhere else.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #75 on:** February 08, 2016, 09:04:22 PM »

Well, I gave the whole thing a "heavy" coat of clear tonight with the airbrush. Roughly 60/40 thinner/clear with some retarder. If all still looks good when I get home from work tomorrow night I'm gonna get out the gun, load it up with more of the same recipe, and try to get the final clear on, finally.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #76 on:** February 09, 2016, 07:49:51 PM »

Just finished the final clear. Seems like it came out with about the normal amount of crap in it. Man, this thing really kicked my ass, I'm glad to finally have it at this stage. I'll post a bunch of pics once it's all assembled.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #77 on:** February 09, 2016, 08:30:13 PM »

tease

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #78 on:** February 12, 2016, 03:41:29 PM »

Wayne,
Yeah, it does look like a real POS!

wwwarbird · « **Reply #79 on:** February 12, 2016, 06:59:55 PM »

Still letting it all cure another day or two here before I start the final assembly. I used a lot of thinner and a fair amount of retarder in the final clear and it's pretty cool downstairs in the shop. It's plenty dry but yesterday it still seemed just a bit soft so I'm holding off yet on getting my grubby paws all over it. Soon though...

wwwarbird · « **Reply #80 on:** February 16, 2016, 09:01:26 PM »

IT'S DONE!

http://stunthanger.com/smf/open-forum/p-40-bash-is-complete!/

t michael jennings · « **Reply #81 on:** February 22, 2016, 06:08:08 PM »

Wayne,

The P-40 looks great. Keep at it.

What is the brand and name of your yellow tape that you are using?
For example, the yellow tape around the engine exhaust.

Thanks for the info.

T Michael Jennings
Knoxville, TN.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #82 on:** February 22, 2016, 07:48:31 PM »

Quote from: t michael jennings on February 22, 2016, 06:08:08 PM

Wayne,

The P-40 looks great. Keep at it.

T-Mike,

Keep at it? It's actually all finished, just click the link I added in the above Reply #81 or you can find it in the Open Forum.

The yellow tape is "Frogtape" and can be found at most places that sell household paints. It comes in a round Tupperware type container. It is GREAT stuff, low tack but leaves a real nice edge. Another bonus is that you can kind of see through it which comes in very handy at times. There is green Frogtape available too but it doesn't work nearly as well for our purposes.