News:



  • April 19, 2024, 02:04:53 PM

Login with username, password and session length

Author Topic: No more dope  (Read 3023 times)

Offline john e. holliday

  • 24 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 22769
No more dope
« on: March 07, 2017, 02:36:44 PM »
No not the stuff you get from some shady character off the street.   It may be a while before I finish another plane with Butyrate dope.  Haven't used nitrate since the lsat mess I made.But, covering this wing with what I will call wanna be silk span.  I sanded the structure with 220 grit paper trying to get rid of the rough stuff.  Then is was using cheapo Harbor Freight brushes I put a coat of 'Mod Podge' around the perimeter of the frame including center section.   After letting it dry for a day I then sanded a few spot that were a little rough.

Now I cut the materials to over size.  Thanks to Terry Caron for the material and an out fit on the bay for the mylar.  Also I change my procedure I did on the stab/elevator on another post.   Tried to put the material down wet.   Too big an area to work with and I had a mess.  Stripped it off and started over.   Lay the material in place dry and taking the iron start tacking it in place on the trailing edge as that is a straight line.  Only need enough tack so you can start the leading edge.  First tack center of leading edge panel.  The do the LE tip and the LE center.   Then start halving the areas on the leading edge.   Learned this watching a guy do gliders with Monokote.   I only did an area along the wing with enough surface that the material stays in place.  Then it was the wing tip and center section.  Finally it was go over all the area and iron down to activate the glue.  Had some trouble with the curve of the wing tips.   No water as the heat of the iron let the material move a little.  Once it was all ironed down a piece of sand paper to sand off the excess.   No razor or knife as that leaves a sharp edge.

Now comes the Mylar.   Yes only one panel at a time.   My thumbs/finger poked holes in the material on the stab/elevator.   By the way the iron will take up the slack in the open areas, but some slack will come back when you leave it set.  Again I start at trailing edge putting the Mylar down over lapping the hinge line far enough that when I iron the hinge line there will be some mylar over lapping the flap by 3/8 or more.   Sealed hinges taken care of with this procedure.  Once trailing edge is done enough to hold do the leading edge starting at center of LE panel and working out.  Over lap LE just a little to cover the material.  Same with the wing tips.   Make sure the mylar is all ironed down on the solid surfaces.   Look at as it looks like a mess at this point.   Now you go over the open areas and shrink them down which will adhere to the material underneath.

Looks better now, right.   Only three more wing panels to go.  The base material is butted up against the previous material in the center section.  You did do a bottom section first that I forgot to mention.   When you put the top section of material on it will not adhere to the mylar.  Excess will be sanded off and the mylar will over lap the previous mylar that was put on.  Also the mylar will be trimmed with a razor blade or EX-Acto knife.  Anyway I'm happy with the results and have a wing ready for installation and same for the stab/elevator.

Can't thank Larry Renger enough for the idea and Terry Caron for the wanna be silk span.  It has already with stood the puncture test of my ball point pen.  As with any thing try it a plane you are not too worried about before yo tackle the next contest winner.  Also patience goes a long way.
John E. "DOC" Holliday
10421 West 56th Terrace
Shawnee, KANSAS  66203
AMA 23530  Have fun as I have and I am still breaking a record.

Offline wwwarbird

  • 2016 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 7977
  • Welcome to the Stunt Hanger.
Re: No more dope
« Reply #1 on: March 11, 2017, 12:37:50 PM »

 So, what do you plan to paint it with?
Narrowly averting disaster since 1964! 

Wayne Willey
Albert Lea, MN U.S.A. IC C/L Aircraft Modeler, Ex AMA member

Offline Clint Ormosen

  • 2019 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 2628
Re: No more dope
« Reply #2 on: March 12, 2017, 10:16:56 AM »
So, what do you plan to paint it with?

How about Valspar premium latex?

-Clint-

AMA 559593
Finding new and innovated ways to screw up the pattern since 1993

Offline john e. holliday

  • 24 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 22769
Re: No more dope
« Reply #3 on: March 12, 2017, 11:22:09 AM »
Once I do primer in certain areas and sand it will be rustoleum gloss paints, the let it set for a couple of weeks.  There will be more pictures coming. H^^
John E. "DOC" Holliday
10421 West 56th Terrace
Shawnee, KANSAS  66203
AMA 23530  Have fun as I have and I am still breaking a record.

Offline Ara Dedekian

  • 24 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *
  • Posts: 492
  • Ara Dedekian
Re: No more dope
« Reply #4 on: March 15, 2017, 06:58:26 AM »
       

        John

       Tested some Mod-Podge based on your earlier posts and promptly moved it over to the grandkids arts and crafts section of the shop. Looked at your pictures again and they're  pretty convincing. I might have been trying to stick down the wrong stuff; Dacron from the fabric store and Micafilm. It seems to work best on porous materials like silkspan? Did you wet/shrink the silkspan before the Mylar was ironed on? What's your source of Mylar? It's worth trying again to have the option of a non-dope system.

        I'm beginning to think all this stuff comes out of one giant vat in some undisclosed location of the world. It's all the same, just packaged in different viscosities. Elmer's, RC 56, the little vials of Balsa-Loc, Mod-Podge, Tacky Glue, etc.

       Ara

Offline john e. holliday

  • 24 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 22769
Re: No more dope
« Reply #5 on: March 15, 2017, 12:01:11 PM »
Okay the Mod Podge goes on as thin as you can brush it and let it sit over night.    The TITI is put on dry and I iron the straight edge along the trailing edge of the wing.  Just enough heat to activate the glue.  Doesn't take near as much heat as Monokote or the other iron on.  Then I go to leading edge and start at center and work out to the tip and center of wing.  Also do one wing panel at a time.  I poked my fingers through when I did the stab/elevator and do it dry.  Once the perimeter has been stuck down then gently iron down all the solid surfaces.   The stuff will shrink up with the iron relax a little when it cools but the wrinkles should be gone.   Then sand the excess off like you were using dope.   This link will take you to the mylar I use or you can get SLC from Corehouse.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clear-Super-Flite-Top-15-x-25-Alt-to-Monokote-Ultracoat-BONUS-2-Extra-Feet-/252244595347?hash=item3abaf31293:g:0XkAAOSwVFlT-u9J

Now you apply the mylar.  On the flapped wing I made the piece big enough to seal hinge line.   Start with the trailing edge and do just like the TIDI.   Overlap the leading edge enough to get to wood about 1/4 inch.  Again once the perimeter is done then iron the sold areas first.  Looks like a mess doesn't it.   But the iron should take out all the wrinkles.  Now do one open bay at a time shrinking the myar.  It should shrink up tight and also adhere to the TITI material.  Almost forgot,  the hinge line.  Flex the flap or elevator so you can iron the mylar into the joint.  Then iron it on out on the flap/elevator surface. Now the flaps and elevator will not get TITI applied on my flaps/elevators.  Mylar will go on them.  Much easier to show then write about.   I have not had the material shrink enough to warp a panel like Monokote will.   The just do the same procedure on the other panels  Now the panels that are put down on top of wing the TITI is sanded to the mylar.  I did say do bottom of wing didn't I?   When the mylar is attached to top of wing, over lap the leading edge about 3/8 inch.  When this mylar is ironed down and shrunk you will not feel the seams except at the wing tips.   Warning the TITI will tear if you pull too hard on the compound curves and may need a little more heat.   

By the mylar has a frosted color so you know which side goes down and has incredible shrink quality.   That is why the perimeter of the wing is going to be painted.  Hope this makes sense.  As I said it is easier to show than write about.  Let me know.
 
John E. "DOC" Holliday
10421 West 56th Terrace
Shawnee, KANSAS  66203
AMA 23530  Have fun as I have and I am still breaking a record.


Advertise Here
Tags:
 


Advertise Here