On my speed and racing models I have been using HobbyPoxy to fuel proof the areas most exposed to fuel.  This worked OK except that the "clear" HobbyPoxy had a noticeably orange tint to it. I wrote this off to old stock.

In order to do a better job on future models with static points, I shot the big buck and stepped up to brand-new Klass Kote.  I tried it on a sport plane first.  The result wasn't much better than the old HobbyPoxy.

I'm still looking for a good fuel proof clear coat.

Brodak Crystal clear dope or KBS Clear Diamond finish... Brodak semi fuel proof like most dopes but stays clear

KBS is fuel proof to 100%..... once gassed out it is impervious to just about any organic solvent

Imron two part clear. A Dupont product.

All two-part epoxy clears will yellow in a fairly short time...well within a year.  Two-part polyurethanes do not yellow and are truly fuel-proof.  The polyurethanes that use a 1:1 base to catalyst ratio are totally solvent proof; the ones that use a 3 parts base to 1 part catalyst (such as Imron was as well as many others) have very slightly less solvent resistance, but the difference compared to the 1:1 ratio type is very slight.  Even Val Spar #327 using an 8:1 base to catalyst ratio is so fuel-proof that you won't have a problem with it.

Thanks for the info.  Are these product thin enough to be used with an airbrush?

I heard that Imron is VERY toxic and not to be used without professional grade protection.

I'm looking for something more fuel proof than dope.

Paul,

I don't believe you'll pump a two part auto clear through an airbrush with great success.

I just watched Robert put pen lines on a model that he eventually cleared in one of his many videos. All worth watching!

I believe Robert used a two part auto clear and a small detail spray gun.  Robert is always open for questions. He tells it straight and leaves nothing out.

If you have a good compressor you're almost there. Small detail spray guns are now inexpensive. Professional grade expensive equipment isn't necessary.

I sprayed two part auto clears for years using professional equipment and spray booths. Air hoods for breathing protection or a good mask.

Today I use a good mask and 2K Spray Max aerosol cans. I spray outside. 18.00 a can.

Works fine.

Photos of the auto clear results on my models are everywhere.

And yes, you can sand and polish the 2K Spray Max if you choose. I choose not to.

I'm looking forward to seeing you're B-25 completed.

Go for it!

Charles

I'm pushing to get it done in time for The Brodak.  Since this my first BIG twin I am not going overboard on detail.  I designed and built a successful 1/2A twin, but this will be my biggest and heaviest model ever.

It will just have USAF roundels and three black texts on both sides.  The main goal is to fly before May.

If all goes well I can doll it up next winter.

It weighed 5.5 pounds pre-paint.  That figure lacks final assembly glue, paint, and threaded fasteners.

It's nice kit.  Actually quite a good deal for the price.  It involves a lot of block-sanding, which drove me to buy a belt sander, which I should have bought long ago.  The sander was almost a big of an assembly job as the plane, but it works.

Avery & Mason have a big fleet of multi-engine models that look and fly well.

More power.
More tools.
More power tools.
A local Detroit hero

I found a brick & mortar source of KBS Crystal Clear in the area.  I will give it a try.

Thanks for the warning about KBS.  I will rethink my plan.

I thought brand-new cans of Klass Kote was the answer.  It wasn't.  There are no static points in this event, so a least the Klass Kote will keep the paint on the plane.  But I was hoping for better.

Paul,

What clear, if any, did you apply to your outstanding Blue Angel carrier model.

Paul I use two part auto clear all the time sprayed only with an airbrush. It works very well and forces you to thin it and keep the paint amount down.

I was one of the first on here to use KBS. I had used it for several years on repainted bicycle frames and it works perfect for that use. If used on a new plane it seems to work well and looks like glass finish. I used it on several older planes that were cleaned as best as possible. They looked great, better than new for six months and then any place exhaust had gotten the plane before it was painted with KBS began to craze. The nose,fillets,flap to trailing edge joint. Now those planes are sitting all stripped down and waiting to be recovered. For a one season plane KBS would be fine. The two part in the spray can is better. Here is my ten year old Falcon after I put KBS brushed on it.

Mark:   How are you applying the automotive clear coat?   Spray or brush?

with spray gun, technically I spray my color coats with an Iwata detail gun, and my clear with a SATA Minijet.

I use a brush to build up dope and sand, then spray from that point on