Since I don't have a spray gun setup (yet) here's basically what I do:
I do all the covering and prep work with Aero-Gloss or Sig clear dopes, (I prefer Aero-gloss personally, but it's getting harder to find) then prime and paint with Lustrekote aerosol cans. Next, I apply any desired details and graphics. I have a good friend who has his own vinyl graphics business (Blown Concepts in Plymouth, MN) so I just sketch out and give size info for what I want, and have them all made. Occasionally, I also use the Sig star and bar sheets when the sizes work out for a particular application. For control surface and cowl panel outlines, I usually just use 1/16" stripe tape or a Sharpie pen. After all that is done, and I add any other details, the last thing is a good coat of urethane or acrylic aerosol clear. I used to use Formula-U clear by Midwest, but it has been discontinued. For the last year or so I've been using Minwax aerosol clear (the pro series or whatever in the silver can) from Home Depot. Now, a big thing to remember is that the products I've described are compatible ONLY in the order I've explained, not vice versa, or any other way. I'm fully aware that this isn't the lightest or cheapest way of doing things, but if you're careful, the weight isn't too bad. The biggest drawback is that you can't really repair anything without completely stripping and starting over. With this procedure, I usually end up with about $50-$100 per model just in finishing and graphics.