RSM Starduster 40 building

[fred cesquim]

another model on the bench, this time the classy design by Ed Capitanelli : Starduster
kit by RSM with usuall awesome quality
this one will be electric converted, but i will keep the overall look intact
The owner have no previous electric plane and decided to have a go with this one
will be back with set-up and more pictures
hope you enjoy the flight

[fred cesquim]

i started to laminate everything to lower the parts account on the box!

[fred cesquim]

talk about a nice laser cut!

[fred cesquim]

powerplant, i know, some will call a sin to plug this classic model!
Timer by Fiorotti
this is the first time iīve used Aliphatic glue and just loved! we donīt have it in Brazil and a friend gave one to text!
next will be the stab

[Motorman]

ahhh... you might want to re-think that timer.


MM

[fred cesquim]

hello Motorman
why should i? we are having pretty consistent results here!
but i am open to new ideas and opinions

[Joe Yau]

we are having pretty consistent results here!
but i am open to new ideas and opinions

I'm a little curious on what size /pitch prop and how many cells you are running?  My set up flew too slow with the Fiorotti Timer. (details in the Electric section) The issue seems to do with the PWM from 1.7ms and up in the Castles firmware.

[fred cesquim]

I'm a little curious on what size /pitch prop and how many cells you are running?  My set up flew too slow with the Fiorotti Timer. (details in the Electric section) The issue seems to do with the PWM from 1.7ms and up in the Castles firmware.

well i am a novice on electrics and to be honest, i really donīt bother on details ( i love modelbuilding, never cared for glow mechanis or electronics, my fault) , i use what Fiorotti recommended and he have run thorugh the set-up with me
we are ate least 4 here flying with his timer on the same airfield and all have been pleased
propeller is wood 12 x 5 Xoar and battery 5S 2700 zyppi compact, so far so good
what problems are you experiencing?
friend of mine had several plagues and then he realized that he was using cheap batteries and engines plus hearing all kind of input from everyone but Fiorotti advices, when he updated to the right stuff and followed the mannual, the plane performed as expected

i am too dumb to learn about the tricks of electronics (still listen music from vinyl!)

hope you can sort this thing out, maybe with Fiorottiīs help, heīs a nice guy and have tons of knowleadge from his long time former job in the electronics industry. bottom line for me: if he moves from here, i will have to convert my gear to glow again LOL

[john e. holliday]

You are so correct when you say that using the set up as the manufacturer says, you will have success.  These old eyes made me enlarge the pics of the ribs.  Thought it was a strange way of doing fuselage.  I am not electric yet, but after yesterday I may be when the finances warrant it.  Keep us posted on the build.

[Motorman]

I use Hyperion batteries, eFlight motors and follow the manual exactly. If that timer is working for you I'm glad. Every time I fly it does something different.

MM

[Randy Powell]

2700mah and 5s should be enough. I prefer more motor, but it should work.

[fred cesquim]

You are so correct when you say that using the set up as the manufacturer says, you will have success.  These old eyes made me enlarge the pics of the ribs.  Thought it was a strange way of doing fuselage.  I am not electric yet, but after yesterday I may be when the finances warrant it.  Keep us posted on the build.

thanks for the comments, indeed i usually follows manufacturer, only time i deviate is when building, wich is my game...but very carefully
hope to see you goes elctric as well! i loved the fliying sensation and to come back home with the same smell iīve left

[fred cesquim]

I use Hyperion batteries, eFlight motors and follow the manual exactly. If that timer is working for you I'm glad. Every time I fly it does something different.

MM

sorry indeed to hear that, hope you can sort this thing out MM

[fred cesquim]

2700mah and 5s should be enough. I prefer more motor, but it should work.

letīs see how it behaves, anyway, itīs easy to upgrade engine & batteries for sure
more work was done!
thanks Randy!

[fred cesquim]

stab assembled and ready for sanding and sheeting
half wing framed
so many ribs!

[fred cesquim]

wing ready for sheeting!

[fred cesquim]

does this post belongs more to Nostalgia 30, or Classic planes than to general forum?
if so, should i move it?
anyway, work keeps going
topside sheeting and capstrips done, now itīs flip time

[fred cesquim]

dear moderators :i belive i shoukd have posted this on Nostalgia 30, or Classic planes
can it be moved ? suggestions please? then iīll upload the pictures again!

[fred cesquim]

more work done!
wing is ready, just need to be fully sanded
flaps needs to be thinned at TE and sheeted
next comes the fuselage

[fred cesquim]

just got this NICE email today:

"HI FRED MY NAME IS ED CAPITANELLI AND I AM THE DESIGNER OF THE STARDUSTER. ERIC RULE EMAILED ME TO TELL ME YOU WERE BUILDING IT. I FEEL VERY HONORED, IS IT POSSIBLE THAT OU CAN SEND ME PICTRES OF IT FROM BEGINNING TO END I LOVE TO SEE IT. GOOD LUCK AND THANK YOU ED"

i feel honored for sure!
cool or what? now the responsibility increased a lot!
back to the fuselage now!

[Avaiojet]

just got this NICE email today:

"HI FRED MY NAME IS ED CAPITANELLI AND I AM THE DESIGNER OF THE STARDUSTER. ERIC RULE EMAILED ME TO TELL ME YOU WERE BUILDING IT. I FEEL VERY HONORED, IS IT POSSIBLE THAT OU CAN SEND ME PICTRES OF IT FROM BEGINNING TO END I LOVE TO SEE IT. GOOD LUCK AND THANK YOU ED"

i feel honored for sure!
cool or what? now the responsibility increased a lot!
back to the fuselage now!

Fred,

WOW!

Another feather in your cap. 

And another outstanding Build as usual.

Charles

[fred cesquim]

Fred,

WOW!

Another feather in your cap. 

And another outstanding Build as usual.

Charles

yes Charles, Wow thatīs what iīve thought! Heīs really a nice gentlemen! now i have to make justice to his design even more!
he was kind enough to send me a picture of his plane, and itīs outstanding indeed!

[fred cesquim]

after some long hiatus due to workshop water leaking, i am back to the project
bellcrank installed, wing fully sheeted and sanded
tail and flaps sanded(thinned on the TE) and ready to be sheeted

[fred cesquim]

electric nose ready too
discarded F1 and hardwood engine mounts, cut a new F1 and laser cut 2 horizontal formers to attach battery and make a solid box for the engine area

[fred cesquim]

using our (Luis Strufa & me) own design Jig, fuselage building was a joy! fast and accurate
 

[fred cesquim]

fuselage top & bottom sheeting are strong & light, but to achieve it properly you MUST block the fuse to prevent twists, otherwise you will end up if a huge propeller!

[fred cesquim]

top and bottom blocks sanded and now itīs time to hollow them, just tack glued to make the outside contour
will deviate from the plans installing the wing from the top, this way i can shape the whole fuselage properly withou a big wing on my way

[Avaiojet]

yes Charles, Wow thatīs what iīve thought! Heīs really a nice gentlemen! now i have to make justice to his design even more!
he was kind enough to send me a picture of his plane, and itīs outstanding indeed!

Fred,

Your excellent and thought out work makes me want to try electric again. Really.

I'm curious as to why the "Starduster" lettering isn't outlined?

Really nice looking model. I like foax panel lines. I hope to get better at them.

I slip the wing in "After" I do the fuselage shaping also, but I got trolled for doing that. 

It's nice to see a real pro at  work. Good photos also. 

Charles.

[fred cesquim]

thanks a lot for the kind wors Charles!
the picture is Edīs own plane, not mine! i a still working on this one
not sure why he left off the "starduster" outline
i really love panel lines, but i rather do them in grey
being trolled for being smarter? well troll me anytime!
iīve been when i decided to paint over monokote, still do, until they see my planes at the field and realize that the base color is ultracote!
sure you may try electric again! let me know if you need anything regarding that, i am very close of Fiorotti, the guy that developed a great timer down here and heīs achieving consistent results with them!

[Avaiojet]

thanks a lot for the kind wors Charles!
the picture is Edīs own plane, not mine! i a still working on this one
not sure why he left off the "starduster" outline
i really love panel lines, but i rather do them in grey
being trolled for being smarter? well troll me anytime!
iīve been when i decided to paint over monokote, still do, until they see my planes at the field and realize that the base color is ultracote!
sure you may try electric again! let me know if you need anything regarding that, i am very close of Fiorotti, the guy that developed a great timer down here and heīs achieving consistent results with them!

Fred,

Not right now, but soon. I'm going to ask you for a detailed step by step explanation as to how you do your wings from the start of bare wood to the final product.

I see your outstanding results so I'm really considering attempting this.

Soon, I'll let you know.

Be well,

Charles

[Roy Heitmann]

top and bottom blocks sanded and now itīs time to hollow them, just tack glued to make the outside contour
will deviate from the plans installing the wing from the top, this way i can shape the whole fuselage properly withou a big wing on my way

Hi Fred. Just to let you know I've started building the Starduster, also with electric motor. I have enjoyed your pictures and comments, has helped me a lot to get started and to do things right from the beginning. In due time I will post some pictures and comments from the building prosess. Keep up the good work.
Best regards
Roy (Norway)

[fred cesquim]

Fred,

Not right now, but soon. I'm going to ask you for a detailed step by step explanation as to how you do your wings from the start of bare wood to the final product.

I see your outstanding results so I'm really considering attempting this.

Soon, I'll let you know.

Be well,

Charles

be my guest Charles! mybe iīll do a step by step article when i found time !

[fred cesquim]

Hi Fred. Just to let you know I've started building the Starduster, also with electric motor. I have enjoyed your pictures and comments, has helped me a lot to get started and to do things right from the beginning. In due time I will post some pictures and comments from the building prosess. Keep up the good work.
Best regards
Roy (Norway)

thaks a lot Roy, itīs kind of lonely to build alone and no other input from other builders!
more progress and iīll post the pictures later
please send yout pictures too!
welcome onboard

[fred cesquim]

finally found time to return to the building board!
fuselage is nearly done, top block partially shaped and escavated

[fred cesquim]

lucky boxes done, took a different approach as a thinned down the surfaces towards the TE, so the usual method wasnīt practical
after sheeting the result was pretty strong as well and i can twist the horn without fear of splitting the wood

[Roy Heitmann]

finally found time to return to the building board!
fuselage is nearly done, top block partially shaped and escavated

Hi again Fred.
I've started building the Starduster, done the flaps, rudder, stab and elevator. Worked on finding a solution to frictionfree but rigid hinges. Found it, will come up with some pictures in short.
But I need some advice on the wing, hope you can help: I the kit there are two spars, 1/8 x 1/4 called " Trailing Edge Stiffener". I just don't have a clue to where they belong. Looked at the plan till the eye got dry, but can't fit them in anywhere. Hope you can help. I've also have a small square balsabit approx. 2 1/4" x 3/4" called "Spare Center Support". Can't fit it in anywhere. Suggestions?
Roy Heitmann

[fred cesquim]

hello Roy!
i just finished hinging the whole plane, all dubro flat hinges
next comes fuse/wings/stab fitting

can you post pictures of the parts so i can figure out?
best regards
FRed

[Roy Heitmann]

hello Roy!
i just finished hinging the whole plane, all dubro flat hinges
next comes fuse/wings/stab fitting

can you post pictures of the parts so i can figure out?
best regards
FRed

Hello Fred
Her's a picture showing the items. The spar is approx 28" long and there are 2 of them.

[eric rule]

Roy;

The 1/8 x 1/4 trailing edge stiffeners go into the small slots on the back of the ribs. This is something that Robin Sizemore suggested. Most wings tend to be somewhat flimsy at the trailing edges. To eliminate this and make the wing stronger and stiffer at the trailing edge Robin has a piece of balsa inserted into the tail end of the rib. Check out the ribs and you will see there is this sort of structure at both the leading and trailing edge.

If you look at the side view of the plan you will be able to see the trailing edge stiffener shown there.

Regards
Eric Rule

[Roy Heitmann]

Roy;

The 1/8 x 1/4 trailing edge stiffeners go into the small slots on the back of the ribs. This is something that Robin Sizemore suggested. Most wings tend to be somewhat flimsy at the trailing edges. To eliminate this and make the wing stronger and stiffer at the trailing edge Robin has a piece of balsa inserted into the tail end of the rib. Check out the ribs and you will see there is this sort of structure at both the leading and trailing edge.

If you look at the side view of the plan you will be able to see the trailing edge stiffener shown there.

Regards
Eric Rule

Hello Eric
Thanks for your answer, but I'm still a bit confused. In my kit, the trailing edge consists of 2 pieces of 1/4"x3/8" with a 1/16"x5/8" between. The latter fits snugly into the slot on the tail end of the ribs.
The spar I'm questening about, is an 1/8"x1/4" spar, and does not fit into the slot.
Question is, has there been a change in the construction of the trailing edge, and the spar I'm concerned about is a "leftover" from a previous version? If so, the plan should maybe be altered on the side view part, and the spar deleted from the laser cutter program?
Apart from this little confusion, it's been a pleasure building the Starduster. All parts so nicely cut out and marked, everything fits nicely with no or very little reworking needed.
Looking forward to next years spring, when the season starts again (winter in Norway is not suitable for line control flying) and I can get the Starduster airborne.

Best regards

Roy

[eric rule]

Hi Roy:

Oops...my bad.

You are correct about the construction of the trailing edge. Robin changed that a while ago. I am the one who messed up when I added the 1/8 x 1/4 laser cut "trailing edge stiffeners" to the cut file. My problem is that I did not notice the change in the construction and left the side view of the fuselage showing the 1/8 x 1/4 original notch. This should have been corrected to show the newer trailing edge construction. That way the laser cut parts would match the plan as printed.

The only excuse I can offer is 1) I am old & 2) with over 90 models in my line of kits plus all of the others I do for different manufacturers I simply am unable to remember what all of them look like.

Thank you for bringing this error to my attention. I have modified the plan drawing to show the proper 1/16" thick stiffener and deleted the 1/8 x 1/4 balsa sticks from the cut file. As far as the two pieces of 1/8 x 1/4 balsa just ignore them as they are not part of the kit. Just save them in your shop for whenever you need some of this size balsa in another project.

Regards & apologies
Eric Rule

[fred cesquim]

Hello Fred
Her's a picture showing the items. The spar is approx 28" long and there are 2 of them.

hello Roy, sorry for absence!
my TE is made up with 3 layers of balsa, very stiff indeed.
this part pictured ss a doubler for the bottom spar, and the small piece join the center section
i have read Eric reply, and not knowing how old my kit is, i thought we had different kits, but then, after reading Ericīs second answer figured out
hope you got it cleared now, if not, let me know
best regards and good luck with the project!
Fred

[Roy Heitmann]

Hi Roy:

Oops...my bad.

You are correct about the construction of the trailing edge. Robin changed that a while ago. I am the one who messed up when I added the 1/8 x 1/4 laser cut "trailing edge stiffeners" to the cut file. My problem is that I did not notice the change in the construction and left the side view of the fuselage showing the 1/8 x 1/4 original notch. This should have been corrected to show the newer trailing edge construction. That way the laser cut parts would match the plan as printed.

The only excuse I can offer is 1) I am old & 2) with over 90 models in my line of kits plus all of the others I do for different manufacturers I simply am unable to remember what all of them look like.

Thank you for bringing this error to my attention. I have modified the plan drawing to show the proper 1/16" thick stiffener and deleted the 1/8 x 1/4 balsa sticks from the cut file. As far as the two pieces of 1/8 x 1/4 balsa just ignore them as they are not part of the kit. Just save them in your shop for whenever you need some of this size balsa in another project.

Regards & apologies
Eric Rule

Hi Eric.
Problem solved, I'm happy, and no need for apologi. Climbing up to 71 next month, I know exactly what you mean!
I will in short time file some pictures and comments on the building progress under my own signature "Starduster 40 building in Norway".

Regards
Roy

[fred cesquim]

finally returned to the Starduster!
all surfaces hinged, wing glued (from the top)
hereīs why: i have shaped the blocks and bottom lamination without the wing on my way. so i could achieve a better sanding result and avoid distorting the fuselage when doing the bottom sheeting, while the fuse was in my Jig.
so instead of cutting the bottom lamination, i just cut the top and the top block will be holding everything later.
now i need to glue the blocks, work on the cowl and go for the final sanding!
almost there

[fred cesquim]

more work done, cowl and wing/stab fillets added

[fred cesquim]

covering started
will cover the flying surfaces with ultracote and sylkspan on the fuselage

[Avaiojet]

Fred,

Looks really good! 

As expected.

I use the same hinge, only difference is I resess half in each side.

Charles

[fred cesquim]

hello Charles!
what about the Horn axle? do you recess it as well?
curious to see how it works

have started finishing here

[Roy Heitmann]

finally returned to the Starduster!
all surfaces hinged, wing glued (from the top)
hereīs why: i have shaped the blocks and bottom lamination without the wing on my way. so i could achieve a better sanding result and avoid distorting the fuselage when doing the bottom sheeting, while the fuse was in my Jig.
so instead of cutting the bottom lamination, i just cut the top and the top block will be holding everything later.
now i need to glue the blocks, work on the cowl and go for the final sanding!
almost there

Hi Fred. If I get it right, you have used a balsa block on the fuse over the wing. Was that block included in kit, or something out of your own stock? Asking, because there was no block in my kit. Have found a solution though, just nosy.
Things are going a bit slow for me, due to logistic problems. Just now I'm waiting for a timer for the ESC from GeeBee. Don't know when it's here. Have to install it before I can finish the bodywork.
Looking forward to see your plane finished. Will you be painting it? I'm looking for good suggestions on what kind of paint is best, if I should paint.
It's a nice piece of work you have done with your Starduster.
Have a nice building week.
Roy

[fred cesquim]

Hi Fred. If I get it right, you have used a balsa block on the fuse over the wing. Was that block included in kit, or something out of your own stock? Asking, because there was no block in my kit. Have found a solution though, just nosy.
Things are going a bit slow for me, due to logistic problems. Just now I'm waiting for a timer for the ESC from GeeBee. Don't know when it's here. Have to install it before I can finish the bodywork.
Looking forward to see your plane finished. Will you be painting it? I'm looking for good suggestions on what kind of paint is best, if I should paint.
It's a nice piece of work you have done with your Starduster.
Have a nice building week.
Roy

hello Roy
yes, the kit came with a full sheet balsa block 1" and i have cut to form the fuse top up to the back of cockpit. had to laminate the back to achieve the proper height.
i have been away from building for the last month due to work commitments, but will be back today!
finish will be my usuall method: wing/stab ultracote covered, fuselage will be sylkspan covered (or carbon veil if i have enough for it), then 2 part auto primer over the fuselage.
paint will be auto lacquer (the trim colors will be painted over the ultracote as well), and 2 part clear coat over the entire model
the model on the picture have the same method applied. Red on wings is ultracote, everything else is paint