Wing building jig for building on the rods

[Bill Morell]

This is my wing building jig for building on rods. Rather than have to make a new one for every new wing I made this one fully adjustable. Using Melamine for the construction I started with a 6' base and then using a Dado blade I cut 6 slots in it. Long slots on either end and a short set in the center. I then built the uprights and attached them to the base with 1/4" carriage bolts and wing nuts allowing them to slide back and forth. The rod rests on the uprights are fixed in the front while the rear rest is on about a 3" slide. This jig should accomodate any wing that can be built in this method as long as there is no dehedral. My thanks to Walter Umland, my Wife and Sparkie for making this post possible.

[Bill Morell]

Two more veiws

[Bill Morell]

another 2 veiws

[Bill Morell]

Somemore of my engines for those of you who have asked in the Chatroom

[Bill Little]

Looks great, Bill!

Actually, Al Rabe's wings are built on straight rods with dihedral.  The holes move from the top to the bottom of the ribs as you go out the wing.  This gives the dihedral. 

Nice set up you made and wings should never be a problem! 

Bill <><

[Dwayne]

Wow!! Your engine collection is very impressive!
Dwayne

[Bill Morell]

Bill G., I brought this back up after I saw your jig for your BIG ONE. Somewhat similar in that they are adjustable. Simplifies things quite abit.

[Bill Gruby]

Bill M;

  That is exactly what I had in mind when I built mine 12 years ago. The only thing I left out was the adjustable rod spacing. Time to modify the uprights a little ( no offence "Billy") Should be a peice of cake? How much does yours weigh? Mine comes in at just under 27 lbs., when it is set up it does not move. Thanks for reposting this, now I know what has been missing.

              "Billy G"           

[Bill Morell]

Bill G. 18 lbs on this one.

[Bill Morell]

The thing that surprised me the most about this jig was the lack of interest in it. I thought that it was a pretty good idea but doesn't seem to have been taken that way. Oh well, it works for me.

[Ward Van Duzer]

The problem I see with building wings on rods is getting the rod holes dead accurate. When building wings I jig the trailing edge, and the leading edge. If the wood is straight, and they are individually parallel to my (dead flat) building surface your wing can only come out straight. I've heard stories where folks have pulled out the rods when done, and the wing turned itself into a corkscrew... 


Ward-O

[Bill Gruby]

Ward;

  Never had a problem getting the holes dead accurate, if the LE is straight the holes are all located from the front. If the trailing edge is the straight part the holes are located from the TE. Now if both are tapered just use the stack method and drill them all at once. In the case of the straight LE or TE, I make a simple "Jig " that is "L" shaped with a center line on it and clamp it to the drill press table.

  As for the twisting when pulling the rods out, I have never seen it happen, so I couldn't tell you what went wrong there. I have been using my "Jig" for quite a while now with narry a mishap. The wing always comes out straight.

  When doing the "Ringmaster 1000" wing I only used 1 rod. The spar acted as the other rod---No Problem.

         "Billy G"   

[Bill Gruby]

Ty;

   The biggest advantage to the grooves is that they keep the rods parallel at all times. I am going to make the back rod on my jig movable like "Bill M" then I will no longer be limited to the same hole spacing. My "Jig" as you see it took only one week-end to build. It does not move when it is set up.

  I would be interested in seeing what you have for the "I-Beam" Jig. I have always wanted to build one.

        "Billy G"   

[Richard Grogan]

This is my wing building jig for building on rods. Rather than have to make a new one for every new wing I made this one fully adjustable. Using Melamine for the construction I started with a 6' base and then using a Dado blade I cut 6 slots in it. Long slots on either end and a short set in the center. I then built the uprights and attached them to the base with 1/4" carriage bolts and wing nuts allowing them to slide back and forth. The rod rests on the uprights are fixed in the front while the rear rest is on about a 3" slide. This jig should accomodate any wing that can be built in this method as long as there is no dehedral. My thanks to Walter Umland, my Wife and Sparkie for making this post possible.

Looks very nice Bill! Looks like you put a lot of thought in its design, completely adjustable. Beautiful! 

[john e. holliday]

That adjustable rod jig looks great.  Will build one if and when my shop gets done.  The contractor for the concrete failed to show up today like he was supposed to.  The city says I can't do it myself even tho I have done concrete work off and on most of my life.  DOC Holliday

[Larry Price]

Bill,
     This is really great stuff... I see you used 6 feet for the length, is the width of the base 6 or 8 inches? Oh! and the height of your up rights? Do you clamp your rods or just let them rest? Thanks... this is a really neat jig...    

[Bill Gruby]

OK;

   Ty --- Thank-you for the explaination. Someday an "I-Beam will be done.


   Larry --- Two Bills and two "JIGS" here? I will tell you about mine and "Bill M" can jump in and explain his. The base is 72" as you say. because I was flying that other type of plane at the time, especially sail planes. The base is 12" wide for whatever reason, I really can't remember. The uprights are 9 1/2" high so I can get my big paws underneath without breaking anything. Now the limiting factor, the "RODS" are 3/8" seamless tubing spaced 2 1/2" apart. In sailplane building this is perfect, but for our purpose the back "ROD" needs to be adjustable for different chord dimentions.This modification will be made shortly---like NOW. The "RODS" just lay inthe slots, I have never had a problem. OK "Bill M." your turn.

          "Billy G"

[Bill Morell]

The uprights on mine are 9" high so that like Bill G. I can get my hands under the wing if needed.The base is 7" wide. Because of the weight of the Melamine this jig stays put while being used. I don't quite understand why Ty thinks this jig is "limiting"? I was going to put pegs on the uprights and use rubberbands for holding down the rods but have not had the need. The grooves do the job. The only modification I have made was to cut the slots the whole distance and to add a 4th upright. As was pointed out to me by Al Rabe the center upright landed just about smack dab where the bellcrank would most likely be. By going to a 4th upright I can leave the center unobstucted and still maintain plenty of support with no sagging of the rods. I would like to point out that the only wings I have built on this were from ribs that I have had cut by Tanks-Hangar. Kyle does these with the 3/8" holes in them for me. I have never had a warp from this method. The rods I got from a tube supplier in Seattle, Wa. I can't remember their name. They were not cheap. I believe they were close to $70 for the set. Very hard alloy and extremely ridgid. Treated with care they will most likely outlast me.

[Bill Morell]

The tubes came from onlinemetals.com phone # 800 704 2157. They are made from 2024 alloy and are the thickest walled they offer. VERY ridgid. Thanks to everyones kind words regarding my jig.