I am starting a new post as I will probly ramble on a bit (who me)??
when working with tanks one size dose not fit all.stunt and combat are diff animals than speed and racing. in speed Bill Wisnewski found that the vent tube needed to be at least 1/2 in from the fuse to get it out of the turbulence . he also found that with a flat sided speed tank by ending the vent tube near the top of the tank rather than right next to the engine feed tube that he could get it rich enough to get it on the pipe in the air on suction,
in slow rat they use a big tank in the inside of the fuse feeding a smaller tank just behind the engine ,actually making it a chicken hopper tank the vent tube was placed in line with the needle valve in the small tank , and they got a steady run from start to finish
in slow combat most run the tank on a tank set up calling it a chicken hopper ,the vent tube comes out in about the middle front of the tank , I always run a piece of fuel tibing to a brass tube mounted to the top motor mount bolts and curved into the air flow,and I get a steady run start to finish. one day one of the guys showed up with a slow combat ship with the same tank. . the second it was launched it would quit . we took my tube off of mine and put it on his and surprise it worked great. took it back off and again it would die on take off. some how the turbulence behind the engine was causing a problem.
to me the two important things is the right location of the vent tube in the tank and keeping the vent tube opening out of any turbulence, which could be one of the problems when changing directrion in manuvers
And just when u think u have it figured out along comes an ARF FLIGHT STREAK that came with about 2 oz tank that would not run steady for a whole flight. we tried everything ,vent to the inside ,everything, .finally got mad and took the tank apart and could not find anything that should have made it act the way it did. put a new 2 oz Brodak tank on it and it has been worked fine (still)