A couple questions while assembling my Oriental ARF

[Matthew Brown]

First, fuel proofing tank and engine compartment. Is there anything I can pickup at Lowes or similar to fuel proof with that doesn't stink too terrible? I'd prefer brush on. Worst case I can thin some epoxy with alcohol but I've never been a fan of that.

Second, I'm fitting the stab/elevator and notice that the pushrod uses a kwik-link on the elevator horn. I have no problem using kwik-links but the hole in the horn is huge compared to the pin of the kwik-link. It makes for a ton of slop. Any "kwik" fixes for this? I'm thinking fill the hole with Stay-Brite solder and redrill.

Thanks, Matt

[Brett Buck]

First, fuel proofing tank and engine compartment. Is there anything I can pickup at Lowes or similar to fuel proof with that doesn't stink too terrible? I'd prefer brush on. Worst case I can thin some epoxy with alcohol but I've never been a fan of that.

Second, I'm fitting the stab/elevator and notice that the pushrod uses a kwik-link on the elevator horn. I have no problem using kwik-links but the hole in the horn is huge compared to the pin of the kwik-link. It makes for a ton of slop. Any "kwik" fixes for this? I'm thinking fill the hole with Stay-Brite solder and redrill.

Thanks, Matt

  You can sleeve the hole with the appropriate-sized brass tube. However, I wouldn't recommend a Kwik-link of any sort. They are not strong enough for CL stunt models and are absolutely notorious for failing in this application.  Replace it with a ball link.

    Brett

[RC Storick]

First, fuel proofing tank and engine compartment. Is there anything I can pickup at Lowes or similar to fuel proof with that doesn't stink too terrible? I'd prefer brush on. Worst case I can thin some epoxy with alcohol but I've never been a fan of that.
Thanks, Matt

Minwax Pollycrylic But I would use epoxy

[Jim Svitko]

Local hobby shops might stock "finish cure" epoxy.  This is thinner than regular epoxy.  Mix it in one of the small, disposable cups that have markings to get equal parts of each.  It can be brushed on with the cheap, one-use brushes. 

[Motorman]

Polycrylic is not fuel proof.

[Air Ministry .]

Epoxy on a plastic lid , over the kettle or a pot of boiled water , goes runney. But Kicks Off in 5 min. or less , so ' Be Prepared , and dont dither .
Work in the edges & Corners , then Brush Out & Thru . Like wot the painters work in from the edges and what have you . Open a Window ,
if you start chokeing , retching , break out in a sweat , and start shiverig & hyperventilateing . Or Beforehand perhaps . Maybe do it Outside .

[Matthew Brown]

There's no room in the fuse for a ball link, barely enough for the kwik-link. I'll see if I have any brass tubing that I can use to bush the hole.
Heating epoxy reminded me of using a heat gun to brush on epoxy. The heat lets it run like water. This is likely what I'll do.

Thanks, Matt

[Scott Richlen]

Can you split the tail post vertically and add a 3/32nd piece of balsa to spread the sides?  That should give you room for a ball link.

[Matthew Brown]

Can you split the tail post vertically and add a 3/32nd piece of balsa to spread the sides?  That should give you room for a ball link.

Not sure what ball links you're using but all the ones I've used would need at least another 3/16" of clearance.

Matt

[Chris Keller]

I just assembled an arc oriental and faced the same thing. I threw caution to the wind and put it together with the kwik link and all that slop. To me the plane flies great - really grooves level and is nice and smooth even through the squares - take that with a grain of salt from an intermediate flier. I cant speak to longevity as it only has a handful of flights on it. I wouldnt build one from scratch like that but its an arf - slap it together and go have fun.

One note though - reinforce the landing gear mount with some balsa scrap and epoxy. Its a very weak attachment

[Matthew Brown]

I wouldnt build one from scratch like that but its an arf - slap it together and go have fun.

One note though - reinforce the landing gear mount with some balsa scrap and epoxy. Its a very weak attachment

Thanks Chris,
My mechanical perfectionism struggles with stuff like this. Really hate any slop in a control linkage but this is strictly my stunt pattern trainer. It doesn't need to be perfect, just needs to get me thru the pattern and last until I get a couple nicer planes built and flying. But knowing how slow I build, that may well not be till well into next summer.


Matt

[Dan McEntee]

  If I have to use a quick link style connector, I ALWAYS use the 4-40 Great Planes brand. I have seen WAY too many of the Dubro units break. Must be made of a too hard/brittle metal and vibration gets to them over time. The Great Planes pieces seem like they are made of a heavier material and are nicely plated. Never had one fail or seen/heard of one failing
   Type at you later,
    Dan McEntee

[Gerald Arana]

Thanks Chris,
My mechanical perfectionism struggles with stuff like this. Really hate any slop in a control linkage but this is strictly my stunt pattern trainer. It doesn't need to be perfect, just needs to get me thru the pattern and last until I get a couple nicer planes built and flying. But knowing how slow I build, that may well not be till well into next summer.


Matt

Matt,
Here's what I'd do: Go to your local bicycle shop and get a spoke with a 3/32" shaft or so and have them thread it. They will cut it to any length you want. Then you can insert it into a CF rod with JB weld. Should work for a loooong time!

Good luck, Jerry

[Chris Keller]

If there is one thing easy to change on that arf its the pushrod to the elevator. If it makes you nervous then its worth the piece of mind youd get from swapping in something else


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Matthew Brown]

In the interest of flying this thing tomorrow, I soldered a piece of brass tube into the elevator horn and it has eliminated 95% of the slop. I set the position of the kwik-link and soldered it in position so it won't wobble on the threads. The stab and elevators are epoxied in place and the controls feel pretty good other than I'd like to see more movement before I feel any binding. I'm getting about 25 degrees completely free and about 35 degrees with a bit of springy feel.
I just epoxied in some additional bracing for the landing gear plate. While that's curing I'm preparing to fit and install the belly pan. I wish it fit better such that it tied in front and back so it could be a structural member. Maybe I can stick in some scrap sheet to fill the gaps front and rear to tie everything together better.

Matt

[Robert Zambelli]

I built and evaluated the first (prototype) ARF Oriental.
Although I was a bit leery of the Kwik-Links, I decided to build the aircraft as supplied by Sun Models.

The plane flew beautifully, only needing a bit of tailweight to dial it in.

Even though we had no failures after MANY flights, I would advise that if you're uncomfortable with the Kwik-Links, take Brett's advice and go with something more robust.

For what it's worth, John has sold hundreds of Oriental and I have not heard any reports of failure.

Bob Z.

[Robert Zambelli]

Finish-Cure epoxy is definitely the way to go.

Bob Z.

[Dan McEntee]

   For airplanes with that thin, svelte tail end, and you are making a new push rod anyway, there is really no sin in making the push rod exit the fuse at the tail and attach a control horn on the elevator. If it's an ARF, ARC or just a knock around airplane, no real reason not to. You have easy access to the horn for adjustments, and can make the flap horn end a solid Z bend or whatever your favorite method of attachment is. It can be made a short as necessary and be stiff enough so as to not flex and such.
   Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee

[Matthew Brown]

I wasn't concerned about using a kwik-link or anything related to the pushrod. I have used kwik-links for several decades with their only issue being the holes in the horns wear out and get sloppy. I was more concerned with the fact that the hole in the horn was about .105 diameter and the pin on the kwik-link was only .062. In excess of .040" slop was my issue. The brass I soldered in fixed the slop issue.
I ended up using 30 minute epoxy and throw away brush to fuel proof the tank area. It's cured and I got the tank cleaned, leak tested and blocked in. I'll finish plumbing it once I get the motor mount area fuel proofed. I had a little epoxy left from the tank area so I got the tail wheel installed.
A few more hours work and it should be ready to go.

Matt

[Robert Zambelli]

Matt: What engine do you plan to use on your Oriental?

Bob Z.

[Matthew Brown]

Matt: What engine do you plan to use on your Oriental?

Bob Z.

Old OS FP .40

[Robert Zambelli]

Perfect combination!
Be prepared to add some tailweight.
You might want to consider a wooden prop and plastic spinner.

Bob Z.

[Matthew Brown]

Perfect combination!
Be prepared to add some tailweight.
You might want to consider a wooden prop and plastic spinner.

Bob Z.

I have a couple Xoar 10-6 but thinking 11-4 may be a better choice. I have a 2" plastic Dubro on it but it's the wrong color. Need to make a run to the hobby shop.

Matt

[Air Ministry .]

Yea , Im Still Tempted to cut the strings to my FP 40 after it did an overspeed . The Magnum 40 clone flew 50" and 2 kilo at about 90 mph with the 1/4 bore straight through peripheral feed venturie .
The 1/8 bore flew it but was a bit soggy . Anyone got anyathese Mag 25/40 C/L intakes . Id tear someonesarm offto get a few . Fit the GP25s , MVVS D7s and C 35 S. T.s , amoungst others .

Dunno about bunging the bypass & a extra Head Gasket - But Full Lean youve got twice the horse you need , in fact if anyone wantsa a good steel FP 40 im open to trade . a 1/2 Doz  Magnum Venturies'd do the trick .
Then you can keep your arm /  

A Few Forts eeron the matter : http://stunthanger.com/smf/engine-set-up-tips/follow-on-question-o-the-os-20-fp-running-with-hole-in-crank-case/ by B. B.
parently like the 20 over the 25 , the 35 seems generally well thought of , andlikely $ 10 2 any R. C. club junk sale , even new .
Dont let me put you off it ( the 40 ) . Any injuns bettern no injun . Maybe theyre better sidewinder ? & that Things got a nylon firewall screw on engine mout !! .    

P.Ski , im happy with TWO magnum .25 / FP25 clones , on a ORIENTAL winged 72 Ounce (ouch ) profile Me 262 , on 70 ft. of .018 for f2b ( but they have a thing about undercarrages ) ONE would be sufficent on a 36 Oz Oriental .
( Currently it back in Bare Wood for tank set up and efforts to lighten , To 60 Oz. , a FP 40'd be good in a 60 Oz Oriental , youd just need 65 or 70 ft lines .   so go with it )

[Robert Zambelli]

Matt (both Matts) - If you have runaway problems with the FP 40, try my head mod.

I've done many FP and Tower/Magnum engines and the results were always favorable.

It's posted here somewhere.

Bob z.

[Robert Zambelli]

Here's a link with the modification info.

Bob Z.

[Fredvon4]

Your link did not post Bob Z

[Robert Zambelli]

    

I'll try again:   http://stunthanger.com/smf/open-forum/flight-report-spring-practice-at-the-zambelli-aerodrome-taming-a-runaway-fp-40/

Bob Z.

[Air Ministry .]

THATS the ANSWER then. mucho gracious. was having a big ( fruitless  ) search for just that a  few weeks back , mucho gracious . Bob. Now about that Ferrari  ,

Thanks for that , I'll get out the hammer & chisel as soon as I get home .   I have to remove the adverse mental reaction to the term ' FP40 ' ,   thanks .

p.s. hard edges in Triumph combustion chambers & moreso pistons - are heat concentrations / pre ignition . ' remove all burrs & sharp edges ' was std. drg. instruction on our waste screens , hardly relevant other than the TERM .
Radius all sharp edges ! maybe thats wy the Tooners stone all edges , besides chamfering & knife edgeing UNDER the piston & so on ? .

Maybe the lower land is radiused ( microscopically ) and top land hard edged , to promote ring oiling and sealing . But FP 40s   dont haver rings . Maybe thats the adverse mental reaction cutting in again . Changing
the subject to avert trauma .  

I suppose if I hang a 1 in shaft extension off it , therell be another whole school of depredations ,   thinking of throwing it in in place of the 40S with its 13/16 shaft extn . Wont Get a lot of regular use , so perhaps o.k.  

theres a ' road test ' ( actually Dyno Test ! ) of the ABC 40 FP S ( control line ) here . http://www.sceptreflight.net/Model%20Engine%20Tests/OS%2040%20FP-S.

[Robert Zambelli]

Hey, Matt S.
You brought up some good points but I'm not sure they apply here.
A sharp edge my cause pre-ignition but I don't thing our aluminum heads get that hot.
When I was building Triumph and BSA racing bikes, we used to round off the sharp edges at the periphery of the exhaust valves because we thought it might be acting like a glow plug and prematurely touching off the mixture. Did it help? Who knew?!!!    

I rationalize that by rounding off sharp edges in the combustion chamber, there is less impedance to the mixture flowing up towards the glow plug. Just my theory but the engines always ran better when I did that. 

The Ferrari? Just an old Italian car that I found in the classifieds a few years back. In fact, it's my everyday driver. 

Bob Z.

[Air Ministry .]

Just Muttering and fuming & conjecterising , there .

Triumphs at the salt lakes , so the story goes ( probly in a Tech Interview in a late 60s bike mag , with pictures ) was the hard edge on the valve cut outs in the piston crown were a heat cooncentration area ,
as well as an interuption ( devider of flow rate ) in the chamber fulling . So ' one ' can presume , a sharp edge being more exposed there , inner edge of the squish band , would tend to have a concentration of heat ,
relative to the rest of the chamber .
Ancient pommy vehicals run cooler in the mist . Along with the rider  . Old F Head 51 Rover 75's pick up & hill climbing was revitalised on the late autumn weekly or so trips north . Summer it tailed off .
As you were fighting for momentum a lot of the time , it was highly evident when it was the CAR that was Eager . in mist it thought it was a V8 .


A bloke up past there got a Quad Light 330 GTC when he worked in the US for around 8 grand - Sunday Tourer more tho . Yours is a 365 GTC ? . Head Man Hooker did the 61 T120 Head in NZ , last he did before heading
overseas to NASCAR , unhurried . A Fortnite for that & a RS 2000 sohc . Think it was the last he took in N.Z. . Dialing in the T Bird Pipe Length got it ' Coming on the Mega 'about 7-400 , for another 10 or 20 mph in third .
And TOP .  Hitched & Walked that road many a time so knew all the bumps & twists in it , By Inspection . Considered my riding reserved , as run offs wernt on the agenda . Far to rough for a Honda back then . 

[Juan Valentin]

Hello Basmntdweller
                                   I was given an oriental arf by a friend and I have to say it flew real good. I used an OS.40FP and had to add lead to the tail to get it to balance. It went thru the patter with ease and gave me a lot of confidence. I got so used to it that I started to go into an hourglass inverted after I finished the pattern. Something went wrong in it`s last flight I think the lines binded at the clips and I crashed. I was able to save the Wing,elev and rudder to build another one later on. I used the Kwik link in it and didn`t have any problems. I wrapped wire over the threaded end to stop the link from opening at the factory split and jumping over the pushrod threads. I also used silver solder to do a fillet around the kwik link pin justo make sure it wouldn`t pop out of the link and I had no problems even when I crashed I had to undo the link from the horn I used a piece of silicone tubing to make sure it didn`t pop open. I use Great planes 4-40 links here are  pics.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Juan

[Matthew Brown]

I think it's done and if all goes well, it should fly this afternoon. Family stuff got in the way over the weekend so I wasn't able to get out with it then. As it sits, it is 42.5oz and about 1/8" nose heavy. I figure I'll fly it a time or two and go from there.

Thanks for the help and suggestions.
Matt

[Matthew Brown]

It flew!
First flight started off really rich but a few laps in it started leaning out and picking up speed. The line tension was ridiculous at about 3.7 secs/lap! I still did some 8s and loops but after a while pull was getting uncomfortable.
Even though it was way lean I was still able to get a feel for it and watch how it tracked. It seemed like it was rather nose heavy and the controls didn't feel like there was enough there.
Second flight I removed the spinner since I didn't have anything handy to use for tail weight. I also widened my handle spacing to 4". Second flight was better but still too fast and it still went way lean a few laps in. Overall control feel was much better. I think handle spacing is good for now but could still stand some tail weight. This flight laps were in the 4.3sec/lap range.
Third flight I bummed an 11-4.5 Thunder Tiger prop off of one of the other guys and the engine seemed much happier with it. I set the engine very rich on the ground and it took about 8-10 laps before it leaned out enough to fly some maneuvers. I did a couple 8s and timed it at 5.3secs/lap. This seems really slow to me but the plane felt really good at this speed other than a bit of light tension on overheads.
I had bought an aftermarket ST clone needle valve assy. I'm not impressed with it. I think it had a lot to do with the inconsistent engine runs. I'm also going to make the head mod that Robert Zambelli linked to. That's a pretty easy mod. I think I'll also make a new venturi and set it up with an OS needle assembly. Tower Hobbies lists a venturi and needle assembly for the 40 FP but lists it as a large venturi. Anyone know if this is too big for stunt use? Worst case I could use it as a pattern to turn up a few new smaller ones.

Thanks for the assistance and suggestions on this project.

Matt

[rich gorrill]

If you had to drill the crankcase to fit the S.T. needle valve the O. s. will be too small in Dia.

[john e. holliday]

Are you running muffler pressure?

[Steve Helmick]

The engine leaning out during the run is a heat problem...too much prop load, maybe also too restrictive exhaust or not enough oil in the fuel. The TT 11 x 4.5 or perhaps an APC 10.5 x 4.5 would be potential cures. A second head gasket may help. Robert's head modification might be required. However, the reason for the squish-band head design is to delay ignition and avoid pre-ignition. Maybe the compression is too high...but destroying the squish-band seems like the wrong thing to do to me. I wouldn't do Robert's head mod until I had a spare cylinder head.

Plus...I see a lot of people start the engine, immediately set the NV and head for the handle. The engine needs to warm up before you set the NV. And muffler pressure is generally a good thing on "Asia Rim" engines; definitely worth a try. However, if you sometimes have things come loose (like mufflers), recognize that the engine will go dead lean when the muffler comes loose and muffler pressure is lost. It's only about 1/4 PSI, but makes a big difference.

IF you're running muffler pressure, pinch off the pressure hose while taching the engine. If you're using open UniFlow, then put your finger over the UniFlow vent. It'll come up to max rpm and then drop off, being lean. Watch the tach, and when it returns to the same (rich) rpm with the hose NOT pinched (or uniflow vent not blocked), it's warmed up. Set the NV now and go fly.  If you fly again immediately, you may find that the NV setting will stay the same. If, on the other hand, you adjust the NV per above in the AM and don't fly again until afternoon, it is likely you'll need to lean the NV a bit, due to higher density altitude as the day warms.  

FWIW, I do not like the OS NV Assy., am ok with the ST Clones, prefer the OEM ST, and dearly love Randy Smith's NV Assy.   Steve  

[john e. holliday]

I think Steve has it.  My Thunderbolt at VSC was doing that.  Start off rich and go lean.   Of course this was once one of my reliable Fox .35 Stunts.  Got home and took the Ex-Acto and sand paper to the fuse and cowl to open up the air out let.   The old Fox returned to the way it was supposed to run.

[Matthew Brown]

There is so much cylinder hanging out in the breeze I doubt it's getting that part hot. Now the cowl is very tight with virtually no airflow to the bottom of the engine so I could believe the lower end is getting a bit hot.
The particular NVA I have is of rather poor quality. The needle portion appears to be hand ground on a snag grinder and the taper is close to double the length of an original ST needle. I noticed prior to installing it that it did not shut off flow when screwed all in. After the last flight, I checked and found that it was 6 1/2 turns open. The needle was very "vague", with 1/2 turn having little effect.

The plane is set up with a uniflow tank. I was not sure about running muffler pressure on uniflow so I left it open. I use muffler pressure on all my RC stuff so I'm not against it if I can get a more consistent run although the way I placed the uniflow vent and overflow, it's gonna look pretty jacked up.

Matt

[Mark Scarborough]

a 40 FP will be much happier with an APC 11x4 prop, you cannot slow it down enough to run a 5 or 6 pitch prop and trust it to behave.
also I did not see where you discussed fuel. I had the best luck with Powermaster GMA 10x22
which is ten percent nitro, and 22 percent oil. the oil is half synthetic, and half Castor.
as I recally I had a .272 venturi with a ST ( actually a rRandy Smith ) needle valve asembly.
Tached at 9800 rpm as I recall, muffler pressure and uniflow

as to heat, its not always the head thats the issue and just because it has airflow does not mean its cool enough, or not to hot,,

[Matthew Brown]

I forgot to mention I am using 10% nitro fuel with unknown oil percentage made by S&W. I do know it's straight synthetic as it is what I've ran in all my 2 stroke RC stuff for many years. Last evening during our flying session, fuels were discussed and I know I'm going to need some castor based fuel, just haven't got there yet.
First two flights on the Xoar 10-6 were because that's all I had in stock that was anywhere close to being appropriate. I intended to get a couple 11-4s had not made it to the lhs for a month or two. It's a two hour round trip when I go after work and the traffic drives me crazy!

Matt

[Steve Helmick]

Purchase online and save both petrol and sanity. Friday I bought K&S 3/32" brass tubing, CyanoAcrylate glue and an Xacto saw...all at my local Ace Hardware (McLendon's), maybe 2 miles away as the crow flies.  Steve

[Motorman]

delete

[Fredvon4]

What MotorMan  said..
I chased a frustrating Fox MK VI engine problem for a while before deciding to change out the aftermarket ST NVA for a Randy Smith NVA...night and day... most all my engines sport either a original ST, OS, or Randy's very good NVAs

[Steve Helmick]

Leonard Neuman doesn't make the ST Clone NV Assy's. I'm pretty sure he gets them from RSM, who in turn likely has them made locally. I have used them without any significant problem, except that the NV wouldn't screw in enough to really peak out my Magnum XL .25. I realized that it would work fine in a bigger engine, so put it in my next dog with an OS .46 LA. No problem. I don't know if this was a manufacturing  problem or a "reverse engineering" induced problem, but it worked fine. Since I found Randy Aero's NV Assy's, I haven't used anything else.    Steve

[Motorman]

Leonard Neuman doesn't make the ST Clone NV Assy's. I'm pretty sure he gets them from RSM

That explains it.  

MM

[Larry Fernandez]

When I was building Triumph and BSA racing bikes, we used to round off the sharp edges at the periphery of the exhaust valves because we thought it might be acting like a glow plug and prematurely touching off the mixture.

Bob Z.

For Mr. Zambelli,
I saw this post of you building and racing English bikes, and thought youd get a kick out of these pictures.

Larry, Buttafucco Stunt Team

[Robert Zambelli]

Larry - the bike looks GREAT!!

Bonneville?

  Bob Z.

[Juan Valentin]

Hello Larry
                   Nice looking Triumph is it a 1972?
                                                                            Juan

[frank mccune]

    WOW!!!! Talk about getting off topic!

    I have an ARF Oriental waiting to be built.  I do not have a motorcycle anywhere!

                                                                                                                        Frank McCune

[john e. holliday]

When you assemble your ARF Oriental,  make sure all joints are wood to wood with epoxy.  Also a decent control system like Tom Morris makes.  Powered with a decent engine electric.   The covering is okay if you don't shrink it too much.  Mine started coming apart while in Colorado contest years ago.  Need good glue joints for wing to fuselage.  Also the flap horn was wollowed out by the pushrod.    Had maybe a couple of dozen flights on it til then.  Don'tforget to use good pinned hinges.  Feel better now.

[Juan Valentin]

Hello frank
                          What I did to my Oriental was to replace the Bellcrank and pushrods, I cut a square hole in the fuse to be able to adjust the elevator linkage.I used the kit control horns and the modified kwik link  for the tail as shown in previously posted photos on this thread. I also drilled the corners of the aft fuselage to be able to glue small dowels and tie the bottom wing pan to the rear of the fuse. I also drilled the bottom triangulars at the nose to be able to push dowels from the front of the fuse and strengthen  the bottom of the fuse. I made a 1/8 inch plywood Horse shoe bulkhead that I placed against the landing gear block to be able to use aluminum landing gear and avoid ripping it at every landing. I had to add tail weight because I was using an OS.40FP but the plane flew beautifully .

[frank mccune]

    Hi Juan:

    Thanks for the great post!

    I will drop you a PM next week when I return home.

    I have been using chopsticks for dowels since the dowels that I can purchase locally are made from a wood that appears to be very soft mahogany.  Yes, I do enjoy "good" Asian food! Lol

                                                                                                                Be well,

                                                                                                                Frank

[Juan Valentin]

Hello frank
                      I found the motor mount section of the Brodak Arf that I saved to make a new fuselage for my oriental. In this picture you can see the horseshoe bulkhead made out of 1/8 ply that I used to reinforce the landing gear block. I fly of grass and thought it would be a good idea to tie the gear block to the sides of the fuse since I was using an aluminum L/G. good luck on your arf build.
                                                                                                                                                                                             Juan

[Matthew Brown]

I've been flying this thing a bit. It's getting better but I definitely need a new needle assembly. Does Randy Smith have a website or do I just contact him on here? I also need a smaller tank if I'm going to fly the beginner pattern. I'm running well over 6 minutes on a full tank.

Thanks, Matt

[Air Ministry .]

WELL , thats all right then ! 

Thisisim : http://www.aeroproduct.net/

Generally you use a bleedy great syringe , and milk off the excess after fueling. Though you can just throw in ' the correct ' ammount .

So you need stopwatches , & maybe tachometers .

[Matthew Brown]

Forgot about this thread and thought I'd post an update/obituary.

I finally got things working well on this plane back in the spring. I never felt it was all that great though. It had a very heavy feel on the controls even though it was lighter than another of my planes with a bit less wing area. On the ground everything felt nice and free but in flight the handle felt stiff.
As the spring turned to summer, I had a few minor dorks with it but it was surviving. Club guys had suggested several times I should enter beginner stunt at the Nats. About two weeks prior to the Nats, I had a particularly lean run and the fuel seem like it was never going to run out. I was just playing around wait for a signal from the engine it was about to quit. It never gave any signal. I had just pulled up into a wingover when it cut off clean. Lines went slack catching me off guard and it dove straight down. Wing folded, front of fuse all crushed. It's still sitting out in my garage but it is dead. I'll strip it out in the next few months and decide what to replace it with.
None of my other planes were suitable for the Nats so I skipped them this year.
Maybe next year!

Matt