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Author Topic: Tower 40  (Read 2206 times)

Offline Bootlegger

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Tower 40
« on: October 12, 2015, 06:06:45 PM »

 It has been  suggested by some one that I consider a friend to use a .265 venturi in this engine, and I need some info on what  the thickness of the stock head shim is and suggestions on fuel and plug, idle bar or not, and any other info that y'all might have.
 I am trying to get constant engine runs, oh yeah it was also suggested to use a plastic clunk tank.
 Any other help/suggestions will be appreciated..
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Gil Causey
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Offline Dennis Moritz

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Re: Tower 40
« Reply #1 on: October 12, 2015, 06:56:14 PM »
What's the plane? What's it weigh with engine?


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Offline Bootlegger

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Re: Tower 40
« Reply #2 on: October 13, 2015, 07:23:37 AM »

 Dennis, right now it is still on the bench to get a good break in, then it is going on a "scratch" build profile with a 550 sq  in wing.
  I thank you for your advice/help...
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Offline dennis lipsett

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Re: Tower 40
« Reply #3 on: October 13, 2015, 08:16:02 AM »
Dennis, right now it is still on the bench to get a good break in, then it is going on a "scratch" build profile with a 550 sq  in wing.
  I thank you for your advice/help...

A Tower Hobbies 40 is an ABC engine as such it doesn't really need a break in. Run it a rich 2 cycle for a flight or 2 and then go fly it. If you try and break it in like a Fox or other old style engine you will ruin it quickly.
A 265 venturi is about a 25 sized venturi it chokes the engine down on power and generally is only good for running the engine hotter than it needs to be. Better to run a 280 and use a a little more fuel for the flight but have some wiggle room on the needle valve.
Dennis

Dennis

Offline RandySmith

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Re: Tower 40
« Reply #4 on: October 13, 2015, 08:51:14 AM »
It has been  suggested by some one that I consider a friend to use a .265 venturi in this engine, and I need some info on what  the thickness of the stock head shim is and suggestions on fuel and plug, idle bar or not, and any other info that y'all might have.
 I am trying to get constant engine runs, oh yeah it was also suggested to use a plastic clunk tank.
 Any other help/suggestions will be appreciated..

That depends, can't be answered without more info from you, the Venturie size depends on the NVA that you use, if it is an OS FP type then you would need a .250 - .260, if you use a ST NVA or PA  type you will use a .270- .290, again the airplane size/weight/drag. will have a small affect on the size.
I have many of them here and have setup lots of the Tower 40s for people.
I setup mine with an Enya ST or PS type NVA and 275 venturie, I can set them up with an OS  NVA but since it is much smaller diameter the venturie needs to be smaller for the same "effective size"
I recommend starting with 24% oil half castor, 5 or 10% nitro, these run either way...wet 2  or 4-2-4  run
Great motors for Nobler Chipmunk  size airplanes, or  large profiles

Randy

Offline Bootlegger

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Re: Tower 40
« Reply #5 on: October 13, 2015, 11:33:24 AM »

 Randy and Dennis it has a .282 venture,, with a P A needle assy, I am running it in a wet 2 stroke, with 10-22 fuel.

  The model that it is going in is about 550 sq in and is still under assy. I am hoping that it will weigh about 44-48 oz when complete.

 Now, what thickness is the stock head shim, and should it be run with stock, or with extra head clearance?
  Again, thanks a lot...
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Offline dennis lipsett

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Re: Tower 40
« Reply #6 on: October 13, 2015, 02:36:04 PM »
Randy and Dennis it has a .282 venture,, with a P A needle assy, I am running it in a wet 2 stroke, with 10-22 fuel.

  The model that it is going in is about 550 sq in and is still under assy. I am hoping that it will weigh about 44-48 oz when complete.

 Now, what thickness is the stock head shim, and should it be run with stock, or with extra head clearance?
  Again, thanks a lot...

I tried an extra head quite a few years ago with no apparent gain but since then have run them  stock. I agree with randy on his venturi size as I use his excellent NVA's.

Offline RandySmith

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Re: Tower 40
« Reply #7 on: October 13, 2015, 03:04:59 PM »
Randy and Dennis it has a .282 venture,, with a P A needle assy, I am running it in a wet 2 stroke, with 10-22 fuel.

  The model that it is going in is about 550 sq in and is still under assy. I am hoping that it will weigh about 44-48 oz when complete.

 Now, what thickness is the stock head shim, and should it be run with stock, or with extra head clearance?
  Again, thanks a lot...

Hi
Run it with the venturie setup you have, use 5% nitro in cooler months, 10% in hotter weather, use 1 head shim, and if it seems to run a little hot, add 2 or 3 ounces of oil to your 22% fuel

Randy

Offline Dennis Moritz

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Re: Tower 40
« Reply #8 on: October 23, 2015, 10:13:46 AM »
We use tongue mufflers that free flow. Uniflo tanks, exhaust pressure to uniflo vent. If we encounter weirdness we cap uniflo vent and run pressure to overflow. Tower head gaskets are 10 thousand, OS FP gaskets are 15 thousand. Jim Lee sells head gaskets for this engine of different thicknesses. I have run a lot of these. Some all out on sport planes, some as stunt engines on sport planes, some as stunt engines on light profiles for stunt, some on thick winged planes between 500 and 540 or so cubes. Sometimes the Towers run perfectly with little or no break in. I've a Tower on an Oriental ARF still breaking in after 20 flights. After 20 flights I am still getting black exhaust. A friend having lots of experience with bushed engines in slow combat said it was the crank/bushing fit wearing in. The chrome brass line/piston fit, usually doesn't take much break in, it's the crank. News to me. But he appears to be right in this case. Engine is running in, exhausting less black, gaining power and smoothing out.

These engines need to be tuned in to your plane. Weight, airfoil drag, wing area.

Examples:

1. Cheater Magician. Tail moments extended, stab and elevator increased by 30%, flaps widened. Outboard flap 1/4 inch wider at tip than inboard flap. Fabulous flyer. I used a light stiff half inch piece for the fuse and a Walter Umland wing kit. Plane weighed 33 ounces all up, motor and tank. Tower was set up with 25 thousand head gaskets, .265 venturi and OS clicker FP needle valve. Dead smooth repeatable run. Wet 2, leaner 2 break. Loved that plane.

2. Prowler. Flea market special. $10. Excellent flier until a flap hinge pulled out on inverted laps. Wam. Plane weighed in at 46ounces. All head gaskets were pulled out in order to get an effective break. Head on cylinder, no gasket, worked on this engine. Lucky. .283 venturi, OS fp clicker needle valve. The Prowler considerably more drag than the Magician. Thicker airfoil. Much heavier. Palko and Banjock kept after me to pull out head gaskets and open venturi. I thought bull. It worked. Setup this way the Prowler had good power and a useful break. Otherwise not enough power. I had the Magician engine available. (The Magician had gone in on the L-Pad when the bellcrank pulled out,  victimized by a...) I didn't believe my friend, bolted the Magician engine on the Prowler. It behaved identically. I wound up pulling out all head gasket and using a large OS Venturi with an FP needle.

3. Galaxy. Ten year veteran. Weight unknown. Tower 40, .272 Venturi, FP clicker needle valve, 30 thousand head gasket. Runs very sweet. Perfect for practicing pattern on 60 ft lines.

4. Oriental ARF, recovered, reinforced wing, 3 ounces of tail weight, all up weight 46 ounces. Engine breaking in. Set up like Prowler.

Plus others including Vectors, a Buster run all out, and and.

I use Power Master 5% and 10% nitro, 22% oil, fifty/fifty castor/synthetic. 10% nitro is my preference these days in all conditions. Fatter needle. Wider range of needle valve setting. Plugs Enya#3 or Thunderbolt RC. 10.5x4.5 APC sport prop. I'll probably do some prop experiments with the Oriental. Power still not optimum. Engine breaking in. See above.


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