Author Topic: ALUMINUM GEAR (Read 2533 times)

Guy B Jr · « **on:** July 29, 2015, 08:53:16 PM »

I am going to ditch the wire gear on a profile and want to use the Sig Fazer aluminum gear. What is the best way to mount an axle on this type aluminum gear? Fabricate one or buy one. If fabricate is the answer, then please suggest a method. If buy is the answer, then what have you had success with?

Brett Buck · « **Reply #1 on:** July 29, 2015, 09:02:11 PM »

Quote from: Guy B Jr on July 29, 2015, 08:53:16 PM

I am going to ditch the wire gear on a profile and want to use the Sig Fazer aluminum gear. What is the best way to mount an axle on this type aluminum gear? Fabricate one or buy one. If fabricate is the answer, then please suggest a method. If buy is the answer, then what have you had success with?

I just use 4-40 machine screws, just like on the engine mount.

Brett

Randy Powell · « **Reply #2 on:** July 29, 2015, 09:07:14 PM »

I prefer unobtainium, but aluminum works. I would set T-nuts and use 4-40s as Brett notes or if the screws go all the way though then figure out how to brace in the middle (dowels or similar) and use nuts on the back side.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #3 on:** July 29, 2015, 09:35:37 PM »

Depending on the size of the model I use either 4-40 or 6-32 machine screws. I usually lean toward 6-32's as they are less prone to breakage and sending your wheel flying.

Assemble in this order:

-Choose the desired size/length bolt and add an appropriate size flat washer

-Add wheel (bush wheel if desired)

-Add another flat washer and then a nylock nut (face the nut "backwards" so the flat side will end up against the aluminum gear. Also, set that nut in such a position as to allow the wheel to spin freely, but yet not wobble.)

-Pass "axle" and wheel assembly through the aluminum landing gear (if you are anal enough you will have previously tapped threads into the landing gear, however, it is not necessary)

-Add a second nylock nut on the backside of the aluminum landing gear. Hold the inside nut (the one against the wheel) with a wrench and then tighten the second nut to secure the entire assembly. Three hands helps with this step.

-Once the installation is complete and adjusted, if you have excess bolt threads sticking out, please cut the excess off and clean it up with your Dremel tool. (this is a very important step, to differentiate your model from a typical R/C model.)

like so...

Jim Svitko · « **Reply #4 on:** July 29, 2015, 10:01:47 PM »

At one time, a company named Klett (no longer around) made such axles. You might be able to find some still in hobby shops. Similar items might be made by other companies but I have not looked for axles in a long time.

RknRusty · « **Reply #5 on:** July 29, 2015, 10:27:08 PM »

When I use 4-40 screws for axles, I try to find ones with a shoulder long enough to be the axle bearing. If not, I bore the wheels' holes big enough so I can sleeve the threaded bolt with brass tube, and provide a smooth axle bearing for the wheel. I secure them with a washer and a nylock nut
Rusty

John Rist · « **Reply #6 on:** July 29, 2015, 10:48:44 PM »

I have had good luck Great Planes Bolt-On Axle 1-1/4x1/8"

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK176&P=7

Might weigh a little more but easy to install. Requires wheel collars.

Steve Helmick · « **Reply #7 on:** July 29, 2015, 11:20:03 PM »

I've always done it like Wayne and Rusty, except I've used buttonhead machine screws, to have a cleaner outside view. I also select a length that gives a "grip" (that's the correct name for the unthreaded part of a screw/bolt) for the wheel to run on...and still might bush the wheel with brass tubing. Plastic bushings don't always work out so well, tho they are lighter.

The current machine uses aluminum axles from Central Hobbies...click on the link and look at the 2nd one down the list, P/N "NMPAXLEFGL". Pretty slick and really light, especially nice for CF gears.

Steve

https://www.centralhobbies.com/subcat.php?cat=LANDING GEAR&id=25&sub=128

Guy B Jr · « **Reply #8 on:** July 29, 2015, 11:31:30 PM »

Since this dural gear is going on an ARF Flite Streak ala BBTU, I have already added 3 aluminum tubes to the fuselage to mount the gear to the fuse. My LHS only has axles for 1/4 scale RC's I was thinking of using a 4-40 or 6-32 bolt. The suggestions as to how to bush and mount the bolt/axle are appreciated.

Larry Fruits · « **Reply #9 on:** July 29, 2015, 11:50:10 PM »

Guy,
All the responses are good, however if you use a 5-40 bolt, which is 1/8 diameter, for your axle, you can use a piece of 5/32 diameter brass tubing for a wheel bushing. The 5/32 brass tube has a 1/8 inside diameter, which is compatible with the 5-40 bolt.

The benefit of this set up is that when at the field and if having trouble with a wheel, you can borrow a wheel from just about anyone. Most wheels have a stock 1/8 diameter axle hole, allowing you to put it on the 5/40 bolt and not have it wobble. This is the way I do it, and it works well.

Good luck;
Larry

Randy Cuberly · « **Reply #10 on:** July 30, 2015, 12:01:49 AM »

Althogh all of the suggestions are excellent ones and very tidy looking for a class stunter, for an application like this I would simply reccommend Dubro 1/8 inch axels with the elastic stop nuts stop nuts supplied, Very simple installation...Drill the proper size holes to accept the threaded part of the axel, install the axel assembly with the elastic stop nut slide the wheel on the axel along with a 1/8 inch wheel collar (also from DuBro) install the set screw in the wheel collar, tighten and apply a small drop of CA to the set screw. Then using a dremel cut off wheel carefully trim the excess off of the axel at the wheel collar and you have a very servicible and not unatractive wheel assembly.

The Du Bro Axel assemblies are available through SIG or Tower Hobbies and most decent Hobby shops.

I have a photo that I had hoped would show the axel assembly but alas it doesn't show anything but the wheel and collar. The nut that holds the axel to the gear is of course on the inside of the gear.

Randy Cuberly

dennis lipsett · « **Reply #11 on:** July 30, 2015, 06:29:46 AM »

Get wheels set up for the 5/32 axle. this is for wheels 2 inch and up. Buy 4MM bolts and locking nuts and flat nuts &washers from Micro Fasteners. The 4 MM is a perfect fit and the shoulder of the bolt is a perfect axle. Follow all of the other instructions. No drilling of the wheels, no sleeve on the wheels, what's not to like.

Dennis

Bob Heywood · « **Reply #12 on:** July 30, 2015, 07:54:48 AM »

If you can live with 2-1/4" dia. Jett Engineering has bolt on racing wheels for aluminum gear. Perhaps a bit pricey but they come on cool colors.

Steve Helmick · « **Reply #13 on:** July 30, 2015, 12:12:32 PM »

The Jett wheels (the ball bearing ones) are 41.5g per pair, including all the mounting hardware...not bad, considering it covers the whole installation.

The DuBro axles are pretty heavy and would weigh probably an ounce just for them (28g), and many wheels/tires run 1-2 ounces. The negative about the Jett wheels...they're not inexpensive, and IMO, they'd be terrible in grass. I like a wide "slick" in grass, to stay on top of it better.

I did notice that the axles from Central Hobby I mentioned above are Out of Stock. I was distracted by the link that I had in my favorites not working, but got the link posted for the axle page.

Steve

Randy Cuberly · « **Reply #14 on:** July 30, 2015, 04:13:26 PM »

Quote from: Steve Helmick on July 30, 2015, 12:12:32 PM

The Jett wheels (the ball bearing ones) are 41.5g per pair, including all the mounting hardware...not bad, considering it covers the whole installation.

The DuBro axles are pretty heavy and would weigh probably an ounce just for them (28g), and many wheels/tires run 1-2 ounces. The negative about the Jett wheels...they're not inexpensive, and IMO, they'd be terrible in grass. I like a wide "slick" in grass, to stay on top of it better.

I thought Steve's estimate of the weight of the Du Bro axels seemed a bit high so I went out to my shop and weighed some.
Actually they did weigh exactly 1 oz but that is with two 2" Dave Brown Lite Flite wheels and wheel collars installed and trimming the axels to the wheel collars would likely remove about 1/8 oz. That makes them a pretty light installation and I've used them on several profiles. I keep about 4 sets in my stock for that reason. The axels are made long enough to accomodate wide wheels and wheel pants which is why they can be trimmed.

The Axels are available at Brodaks for about 6 dollars.

So there! Steve!!!

RknRusty · « **Reply #15 on:** July 30, 2015, 09:50:05 PM »

Quote from: Steve Helmick on July 29, 2015, 11:20:03 PM

...I also select a length that gives a "grip" (that's the correct name for the unthreaded part of a screw/bolt) for the wheel to run on...

Ah, so now I know the correct name for the unthreaded portion of the bolt. That's what I was calling a "shoulder." Learn something every day.
Rusty

wwwarbird · « **Reply #16 on:** July 30, 2015, 09:54:29 PM »

Bob,

What's the scoop on the "BB" wheels? Where do you get them?

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #17 on:** July 31, 2015, 09:40:56 AM »

Wayne,, they are pylon racing wheels,, go to
https://www.jettengineering.com/

then click on the "mufflers and accessories" link on the left side ( in red bar)
scroll down and you will find the ball bearing wheels,, and the standard ones.
the ball bearing ones are almost a pain, your plane will roll forever because they are so free. Pylon guys think it helps them get off the ground faster ( hmm let me think, they roll about 5 feet on the ground before becoming airborne,, )
anyway,, there ya go. I use the standard ones on my 424 quickies

wwwarbird · « **Reply #18 on:** July 31, 2015, 09:36:10 PM »

Thanks Mark.

Guy B Jr · « **Reply #19 on:** August 02, 2015, 10:53:15 PM »

Thanks Guys. all the suggestions and replies are appreciated. Most centered around what I thought would be logical.

I have always used wire gear and needed your help in choosing the right way to use the aluminum gear. Thanks again.