A consensus of opinion on Plastic type wing coverings

[Mike Griffin]

For years I have used silkspan and/or polypspan and dope to cover my planes with.  For various reasons, I am going to have to end my use of dope for finishing.  I have become pretty good at covering with the MONOKOTE type coverings and I use the word MONOKOTE in a generic sense kind of like calling sneeze tissue KLEENEX.  I have tried the cheap stuff from Hobby King and Tower and it works just OK in my opinion.  My favorite so far seems to be Ultracote but for some reason the backing wants to peel off before I use it..no big deal but never have understood why.

Anyway, I would like to hear from you guys that use this type covering and see if there is a pattern or consensus of which one seems to iron the best and is fairly easy to use...any feedback will be greatly appreciated as I am going to be using it in the future for my models..

Thank you

Mike Griffin

[Daniel_Munro]

My aero modelling career is probably very short in terms of many, but I was taught the ways of tissue/dope and silk/dope when I was a kid learning the hobby. I love covering this way but getting dope is veryexpensive now in New Zealand so I've covered my last few models with iron on plastic.

I've tried Ultracote and didn't like it much. It kept lifting at the edges.

I've had great results with the cheap Hobbyking variety. It goes on well and shrinks drum tight with a heat gun. Never had any edges lift.

Oracover is my favourite, but it's hard to find and pricey.

Another option is to use polyester cloth like Sig Koverall, stuck down with Balsaloc, shrunk with a heat gun and sealed up with water based polyurethane. Some nice finishes have been achieved locally with it. No nasty fumes if that's the problem.

Daniel.

[Tim Wescott]

AFAIK, in the US Ultracoat and Oracover are the same thing -- are there regional variations?

My favorite for big planes is (US) Ultracoat.  If you can stand rattle-can paint, you can paint trim straight onto it (or any other plastic film) with Rustoleum Gloss Protective Enamel -- scuff the surface first if the plane is going to live more than a year or so.  Old Monocoat is fine, new Monocoat just doesn't seem to work as well.  The various really light films (other than SLC) are a pain in the behind to work with, but stick to themselves too darned well.  SLC is actually pretty fun stuff to cover with, although if you're covering a wooden model you may want to prep the wood with Balsarite or some such.

[Gerald Arana]

Mike,
I haven't used Monocoat since '99 or so when I quit competing with RC gliders.
I've used the "original" Monocoat with great results. However the stuff you get these days (at least in CA) isn't the same. (I'm told) The best stuff is the one you mentioned (CRS cuts in)...........
I've been going to "estate" sales and getting (Hopefully) the original Monocoat. I'll find out when I try to use it on my beaters!

Good luck, Jerry

[Perry Rose]

Monokote. I used it when it first came out and had wet adhesive. But they seem to have changed it a bit lately. If I have to paint I use poly crylic instead of dope and dupli-color spray cans or rustoleum.

[Randy Cuberly]

I started using Monokote in the early 60's and have done many airplanes with it over the years.  I actually did a Sig Magnum with it in the late 1980's that garnered 18 points in a couple of contests...No paint was used anywhere on the airplane.  Biggest problem with the plastic films is that after about 3 months the airplane looks 10 years old!  The stuff just doesn't weather well.

The hands down winner for me in ease of application and lasting (sort of) ability is Ultra Cote.  I find it far easier to use than any of the other types and I've used most of them.  Most of the "Cheapies" go slack after about 20 minutes in the Arizona sun and won't tighten up again no matter how much heat is applied.  Ultra Cote always seems to tighten up again no matter how loose it gets.  It will loosen a bit at the edges if not carefully sealed with some kind of stick'um.  a careful application of clear polyurethane on a q-tip seems to work best and is invisible!

Photo below was transferred from a print so the quality suffered but you get the idea.

Randy Cuberly

[Tim Wescott]

If you want to get the best appearance points out of 'coat, bring a piece of white cloth (I have a baby quilt, complete with teddy bears or trains or something like that).  Toss it over the plane when you're not flying -- this keeps it a bit cooler in the sun, and it wrinkles less.

[Doug Burright]

Ultracote. I use it on all my planes that don't get a fabric/dope finish. I find it is easier to apply, and if one reads the instructions, the method is great. It is multi-temp: you can tack it in place at one temperature, and shrink it at a little higher temp. You don't have to max-out the shrinking at the first application. I paint directly to the Ultracote, without scuffing, using Krylon spray cans. Works for me.

[Crist Rigotti]

Mike,
My preference is Monokote.  However, the Monookote of lately ( for the last several years) isn't very good.  I heard they had to change the formula and the result isn't a very good Monokote.  The new stuff doesn't shrink very well and the adhesion isn't very good either.  I have several more airplanes worth of the "good" Monokote left and when my supply is used up, then I'll go with Ultracoat.  I fly electric so I don't worry about oil seepage.  I have a C/L profile that is 4 years old and still looks very close to brand new that is 100% Monokote.

[Norm Furutani]

I like Ultracote/Oracover mainly because you can get the Lite version and it is easy to work. One thing I've noticed, is it seems the adhesion temp and shrink temp are very close together. If you use a heat gun too close to the edges, the covering will pull off the framework. I use an iron to shrink, or a shield over the edge if using a gun.

Norm

[Mike Griffin]

Norm, Ultracote has a covering they market as Parklite.  Is that what you are using on CL models?

Mike

[Norm Furutani]

Norm, Ultracote has a covering they market as Parklite.  Is that what you are using on CL models?

Mike

AFAIK, Ultracote comes in 3 weights, reg UltraCote, UltraCote Lite and ParkLite. Parklite would probably be OK on a 1/2A but I wouldn't use it on anything larger. I'm thinking about using the Ultracote Lite on the Banshee.

Norm

[Target]

I think monokote offers more torsional stiffness than Ultracote does. If your wing framework is stiff uncovered then the Ultracote Lite might work for you. If the framework needs some help, I think Monokote is what you want.
I like stix-it on the end ribs and such to help with what norm is mentioning.
R,
Chris

[Norm Furutani]

Hi Chris,
What i'm wondering, since our backgrounds are not heavy in control line, but FF or RC glider, if flutter issues are the same in CL?

Norm

[Target]

I'm not even thinking in terms of flutter, but more of keeping the air frame in alignment during maneuvering. I assume there is probably some twisting forces on the wing due to the circular flight path. For that, stiffer I would think is much better. Just as full fuses are better than profile...of course, good design I would guess will minimize the forces that are imparted to the flying surfaces, but there still must be some.
Stiffer covering I think will help.
Looking forward to this Friday!
R,
Chris

[Jerry Higgins]

Mike,
I prefer Ultracote for the flying surfaces and Klasscote epoxy for the fuselage.  Both are easy to use.  Make certain you attache Ultracote according the their instructions and don't use it like Monokote.

Jerry

[Randy Cuberly]

Hi Chris,
What i'm wondering, since our backgrounds are not heavy in control line, but FF or RC glider, if flutter issues are the same in CL?

Norm

Control line wings and stabs are typically a lot thicker (thick makes stiff) with D-Tube type construction and webbed trailing edges or Foam wings sheeted with balsa; and both construction types are significantly heavier and stiffer than typical Free Flight construction so flutter is not a problem when covered with film coverings.  Control surfaces like flaps can be if not made properly with stiff components like carbon reinforcement over sheeted geodetic surfaces.

The attached photo shows a typical 650 sq in stunt wing with modern construction and is very stiff.  The flaps will be covered with 1 0z fiber glass cloth.

Randy Cuberly

[Tim Thompson]

A few  things that I had success with using the new films. It seems to stretch when heated, so I start at one end and carefully massage it to the other end. Once it's tacked down to shrink it tight, I turn my iron up and hold it above the film without touching it. Only do one bay at a time, then immediately lightly rub the surface with an ice cold cloth. A hot air gun blows hot air with pressure thus stretching the film. Hope this helps.

Blue  Skies. ......Tim