Blank

[Rusty]

Blank

[jim gilmore]

Larry  Renger I think designed and somebody sell it. it comes as a kit.
Do a search for him here....

[Phil Krankowski]

http://www.exmodelengines.com/product.php?productid=18105&page=1
http://coxengines.ca/1-2a-control-line-handle-for-cox-engine.html

If it sizes down enough you can use quite a few other handles.  Since you are saying you want to make your own duplicate a handle you like in 1/8 inch plywood and aluminum sheet. 

Phil

[dennis lipsett]

Rusty I'd also recommend the handle by Larry Renger. It's made by Eric Rule at RSM and is light years ahead of the old handles of yesteryear.

dennis

[Roger Vizioli]

Rusty I'd also recommend the handle by Larry Renger. It's mad bay Eric Rule at RSM and is light years ahead of the old handles of yesteryear.

dennis

I agree w/ Dennis. Larry's handle is the only one I use for 1/2A's. See Vendors corner.

Roger

[Jim Roselle]

I agree w/ Dennis. Larry's handle is the only one I use for 1/2A's. See Vendors corner.

Roger

I third that, it's an outstanding handle.

[Larry Renger]

Thanks, guys! 

[riley wooten]

Whatever you do keep the handle as light as possible (especially 1/2 A) so you feel the plane, not the handle............
rw

[Tim Wescott]

Whatever you do keep the handle as light as possible (especially 1/2 A) so you feel the plane, not the handle............
rw

I was amazed at how much difference it made going from a 100g handle to a 16g handle with a plane that weighs 54 ounces dry.  On a 1/2-A you probably can't make the handle light enough.

[riley wooten]

Tim
In the olden days of Dacron lines and low 1/2 A power I put a black mark on the lines at proper place.  That mark went on my point finger, held in place by my thumb.. On those small, ultra light planes my hand was my handle.....
rw

[Tim Wescott]

Tim
In the olden days of Dacron lines and low 1/2 A power I put a black mark on the lines at proper place.  That mark went on my point finger, held in place by my thumb.. On those small, ultra light planes my hand was my handle.....
rw

Did the line go over more than one finger?  How many (fingers)?

[Gerald Arana]

I have had it with the Goldberg red plastic ones I have.  They are old and the plastic isn't holding up good. (having to use plastic glue on them)

Does anyone have a template or instructions / pictures of a good I can make?

I have researched this for days and looked at all I could find, but only one seems plausible for .049.  It had the string clamped between wood in the front.  I think I could make that, but probably there is a better one.

Thanks

Why don't you just use the one you are gluing back together as a pattern and make your own?
Jerry

[riley wooten]

Did the line go over more than one finger?  How many (fingers)?
[/quote

Went over all 4 which on my hand was appx. 3-1/2"  Could go down to 3 fingers for closer spacing but I think that is about it. And if you change, remember that changes neutral.
rw

[Tim Wescott]

Went over all 4 which on my hand was appx. 3-1/2"  Could go down to 3 fingers for closer spacing but I think that is about it. And if you change, remember that changes neutral.
rw

Thanks.  That makes perfect sense.

[GGeezer]

Rusty,

When I finally converted to a hard point handle for my larger planes, I was so impressed with the handling that I decided to use the same system for my 1/2A models.

I converted a still available Sig 1/2A handle into a Hard-point by simply drilling a series of holes on the front bar of the handle as shown in the photo. I bend the clips in various lengths out of .025 music wire.

This set-up works and feels real good. The handle is very light (16 grams, .6 oz. with clips).

Orv.

[GGeezer]

Rusty,
I'll scan and email it to you.

Orv.

[Tim Wescott]

Rusty, if you're at all willing to listen to the "light is good" crowd, I strongly suggest that you use something other than 1/4" ply for this.  1/8" lite ply or 1/16" aircraft plywood should be more than sufficient for this.  1/4" ply will weigh a ton.

[GGeezer]

Or heavy cardboard like the handles Jim Walker included with his original Firebabys.

Orv.

[Phil Krankowski]

I set up for near equal spacing as the bellcrank.  This spacing is much more narrow than you have.

It looks pretty good.

Phil

[GGeezer]

Rusty,
It's fun coming up with a better mouse trap. I too thought that I could build the ideal 1/2A handle and after two disappointing tries decided that there must be an easier and better way, hence the hard-point modified Sig. The thing I like about the hard-point is that I can easily adjust the spacing of the lines. I also make up about a half dozen clips of slightly varying lengths so I can actually set this handle up very quickly to suit the model in question.
I also like how light and touch sensitive it is. The overhang is about as small as you can make for a hard-point so it has good dynamics.

Your handle looks very well crafted but like the folks said, the spacing is probably too wide for those small 1/2A bell-cranks making for a high control rate which degrades flight smoothness and precision.

By all means give 'er a go and see how you like it.

Orv.

[Phil Krankowski]

Here's an idea:
whack off the part in front of the knuckles. 
reinstall the inserts at the new location, in the now free ends at the cut.
use clevises and a piece of 1/16x1/2 bar aluminum supported by the clevises.  This bar probably can be smaller even.
drill as many holes as desired in the aluminum allowing adjustable spacing and maintaining some trim adjustment.  You will want to use different size clips to do the bulk of the adjustment, with the adjustments for the fine adjustment.

Phil

[George]

What I did after Orv sent me a template of the Sig handle, I cut the handle out.  I then drill the holes for a 4-40 threaded rod to go in the handle as seen in the picture.  I then drilled the outer part with a 11/32 drill for Dubro 4-40 threaded inserts.  I then put thick CA on the inserts and screwed them into the handle.  After than I put some 4-40 ball link ends on 2" 4-40 threaded rods.   The rods will go out as much as they will go in, giving a good amount of adjustment.   It weighs .7 oz.

I am going to fine sand it and seal it before use, but this is it.   What do you think?

I believe you are intending to make one for each plane. For the next ones:
Measure the hole to hole separation on the bellcrank on the plane that handle is for. Mark the center line on the handle and mark the bellcrank hole spacing centered on that line. Drill for your 4-40 threaded rods so that the lines are spaced the same distance as on the bellcrank.

Making the bellcrank and handle spacing the same will give you a 1:1 movement. That is, if you move the handle 20 degrees, the bellcrank will move 20 degrees. With your handle the way it is, if you have a 1.5" bellcrank and a 3" spacing on the handle if you move the handle 20 degrees, you pivot the bellcrank 40 degrees. That is why many of us who started out with 1/2A planes found them hard to control. Of course the same applies to larger planes.

With the handle you have, you might want to make a larger plywood bellcrank to match the spacing.

In any case, good luck with your handles.

George

[Phil Spillman]

Hi Rusty, The Sullivan Co. once made a two holed, for fingers, handle which was just great for small 1/2 A planes. I had one but since our move haven't seen it in 6 years! The lead outs were fixed by a set screw which had a flange to clamp down on the cables and it had a spacing adjustment consisting of a series of larger holes in front of the cables through which the cables were passed to allow for spacing adjustment. The finger holes were large enough to allow for even large fingers to fit through comfortably!

Tally Ho!

Phil Spillman

[Larry Wong]

This is what I used for years.   

[Bob Matiska]

I have one of the handles on the left as well as a whole bunch of the Cox handles. I used it when a buddy and I flew Mouse racers about 40 years ago. There are no markings of any kind on mine, so I had no idea of who made it. Sullivan? That's OK with me. It worked well.


Bob in NEPA

[Keith Renecle]

Hi Guys,

I had to make a quick 1/2A handle from my friend Theo Kleynhans a while ago and I made one using my WHIGLA system. I used a piece of thin hard pressed wood called Supawood out here and then added some balsa for a thicker grip. I just drilled a bunch of holes as you can see in the pics, and then added some ordinary thin string to go in and out of the holes. To adjust you simply loosen the loops and pull them tight again when you are done. As you can see I did not bother to mark the holes properly, hence the skew holes! You could use thin plywood instead of the hardboard.

Oh......what is my WHIGLA system?? What Have I Got Lying Around!

[Keith Renecle]

O.K. ........here are the pics!

Keith R

[Bob Hudak]

This one came from an old M.A.N. magazine(not sure which one). the handle is 1/4" balsa laminated with 1/16" ply the grip is 1/4" balso shaped to a comfortable hand grip. the cable is .015 stranded wire. I used a bolt drilled for the cable and a washer and thumbscrew to trap the cable. the hole spacing is 2.25" and 3" on center( I use the 2.25"). Line the holes with plastic tubing(golden rod or similar). A crimp sleeve is all I use to make the eyelets.
Bob

[Greg McCoy]

People have used the "D" handle from 5 gallon plastic containers. My job happened to get stuff in those buckets. Used 1/16" welding rod to make the hooks.

[jim gilmore]

The screw from a set of bicycle brakes with the hole already in it is the right tool for the job since its used to catch the brake cable.

[Phil Krankowski]

This is what I used for years.   

I really like that setup on the right.

Phil

[John Fitzgerald]

I have a bunch of the Perfect handles and dacron lines, NIB.