Wing construction for Brodak Vector 40

[Richard Hutlet]

Morning,

I've just started my Vector 40 and I'm already lost in the instruction book. Probably
due to the fact I haven't built anything in almost 20 years. The plans say to elevate
the 1/8" lower wing spar 5/32 at the outboard R11 at each end of the wing. Then to level
the spar along using shims. Is this saying that the entire lower spar is going to be 5/32
shimmed even at the mid section? Or is the mid section touching the building surface
and just shimmed at the ends.

Thanks

[tom brightbill]

I haven't seen the plans, but it sounds like after elevating the tip (R11) the gap should reduce to 0 at the root.  A simple check is to compare the root rib to the tip rib and the difference should be 5/16".  That means that the wing is tapering equally on top and bottom as it goes towards the tip. If that's the case, lay the spar on the plans and elevate it as the instructions say. Put a straight edge over the spar, and add shims under it as necessary to keep the spar straight as it goes to the root rib. Good luck.

[Wynn Robins]

Spar at the centre of wing touches the build surface.
Shim R11 to height
add shims in decreasing sizes along the spar back towards the centre

[Richard Hutlet]

Thanks fellas

[rich gorrill]

Richard, having built a few Brodak kits I find reading the instruction book many times is a must. Sometimes the manuals were printed many years ago and sometimes the book and the plans don't always jive. Make sure to check the plans for any changes made to the design. I've never built a Vector but I'm now building a Barnstormer and some of the pic's in the book look nothing like the plans. If you get stuck again you can always call Brodak's, they will be more than willing to help.

Rich

[Richard Hutlet]

Good to know. I have noticed things are a bit different so I may have to do that.

Thanks for the input

[Leester]

Tom has it right !! and when you have to flip the wing over make sure you re-shim it..

[Balsa Butcher]

If you haven't built anything in 20 years (or even if you have) it would be worth your $$ to order a replacement instruction book from Brodak or maybe borrow one from someone. How do I know this-built a Vector, followed directions, came out great. Built (or tried) to build a Legacy w/out instruction book, a complete disaster. There will be other questions that come along during this build-most if not all are addressed in the book.

[Richard Hutlet]

thanks..i didn't know you could get upgraded instruction booklets. I'll
call brodak tomorrow. thanks for the tip

[Richard Hutlet]

I may have bitten off more than I can chew since being out of the hobby
for that long but I'm going to give it an honest try. Also found a brand
new Geske Nobler in my basement still in the box so have lots of building
to try.

[Tim Wescott]

What Tom said.  If you have the money for it, get a wing jig, or buy a couple of 8mm carbon fiber rods from an online kite shop.  The wing jig will hold the ribs exactly where they should be while you glue the wing together, and when everything is done you'll slide those rods out of a nice clean straight wing.

[Leester]

The "leveling Bar System" works just fine, you have to do a little adjusting but once you understand how it works it's just as good as others. One thing about using a " Rod System Jig" your ribs must have Accurate jig holes in them. Newer Brodak ribs are set up for 5/16" jig rods. You can get these ( 5/16"  303 SS 6' long rods ) at Grainger supply for under 20.00  I made two end braces and a center brace for mine from scrap oak I had in my shop.

[Motorman]

What Tom said.  If you have the money for it, get a wing jig, or buy a couple of 8mm carbon fiber rods from an online kite shop.

I have often heard of this kite shop with the carbon rods for sale but have not found it in my searches. Could you post a link?


Thanks,
MM

[Tim Redelman]

Yes, I've been looking for rods like these too. Can you please post a part number?


Tim

[David Felinczak]

You can use carbon fibre "arrow shafts" available from your local hunting/sporting goods store for a wing jig.

[Bill Little]

I used two Easton "match" aluminum arrow shafts for the front holes and two for the rear holes.  I bought one shaft that is a slip in fit of the others and cut 2" pieces to act as joiners.  I super glued them into one end of each pair so that they will come apart.  You can also sight through them to check straightness.  Total cost about $10.

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM

[Phil Krankowski]

Be careful using CF shafts when gluing.  CA really likes sticking to it - better than to wood possibly!    Other adhesives like yellow glue also are fond of adhering well.

Phil

[Tim Wescott]

I did not notice the question about CF tubing until just now -- sorry about that.

I think this is the place that I ordered from, but if you do a Google search with "kite" and "carbon fiber" in it you'll get a slew of 'em.

https://goodwinds.com/carbon/pultruded-tubes.html

[Balsa Butcher]

As the Vector ribs are not pre-cut w/holes for a tubing jig my recomendation for this one is to build it on a flat board per the instructrions. That's the way I built mine and it came out very straight...great flying model. Try a Legacy 40 next...also a great flying model and the wing ribs are pre-cut for a rod type jig.