KBS Clear for sealer

[frank williams]

There was a topic the other day about finishing (don't know where it went) that recommended using two coats of KBS clear to seal the wood surface prior to covering and filling.  It didn't say anything about wiping off the KBS or squeegeeing it off between coats, just two coats.  My KBS is kinda like honey, I can't image that you can brush on two coats without creating a real mess.  Anybody done this yet?  or did I read it wrong.

Frank

[Bob Reeves]

I wasn't able to find that thread either which is disappointing as I am planning on finishing my next airplane as described. Can't remember who posted it..

Thinking he said he thinned it but not sure...

[Wade Bognuda]

I remember the thread I think he used 10% KBS thinner.

[Mike Griffin]

Frank, I sent you a PM

Mike

[Steve Thomas]

Luckily I got a screenshot of Phil's instructions before the thread vanished. (Where has it gone? Why has it gone?) There's no mention of thinning the KBS, just the suggestion to use 2 coats with a light sanding with 320 between them.

[RC Storick]

Luckily I got a screenshot of Phil's instructions before the thread vanished. (Where has it gone? Why has it gone?) There's no mention of thinning the KBS, just the suggestion to use 2 coats with a light sanding with 320 between them.

It was a private letter to me and I regret posting it. Its gone because its gone.

[john gunn]

Does this product, KBS, give off toxic fumes and how does humidity affect this product"?

[bruce finley]

Does this product, KBS, give off toxic fumes and how does humidity affect this product"?

Yes, it does off fumes, you had better have a real mask when working with it.  In higher humidity or cooler temps it starts to harden just as quickly but takes longer to fully cure.  IIRC, you can thin it up to 30% with KBS' proprietary thinner.  I would not try to use any other thinner.  I also ordered the Bloxygen from Amazon to help with an opened container from going bad.  Definately a learning curve with this stuff but has positives.  Not cheap but what is nowadays.  Looks like fuel proof to high nitro.  Next time I am going to spray it thinned and see if I can save some weight.

http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php/topic,37432.0.html

[MikeyPratt]

There was a topic the other day about finishing (don't know where it went) that recommended using two coats of KBS clear to seal the wood surface prior to covering and filling.  It didn't say anything about wiping off the KBS or squeegeeing it off between coats, just two coats.  My KBS is kinda like honey, I can't image that you can brush on two coats without creating a real mess.  Anybody done this yet?  or did I read it wrong.

Frank

Hi Frank!!
I think I tried this system before but it has been a long time, but, it was K&B clear, not KSB.  What I did was to apply the clear to the model and wipe off the excess clear with a paper towel.  I wiped off the clear until the model felt almost dry.  Let the stuff set for two days then sanded with 220 grit paper.  Then a second coat was applied and sanded with 220 grit sandpaper after the clear cured.  This filled the grain of the wood and made a durable finishing base.  Doped, papered, and finished as normal from there.  It worked pretty well, but I wasn't happy with the weight of the finished model so I never tried it again (stuck with good old dope from there on).

See ya old friend,
Mikey

[Paul Walker]

See ya old friend,
Mikey
[/quote]


Speaking of old friends, how are you doing "Super Dave"?

I'll never forget that chapter of the Nat's.

Your old friend

[Robby Hunt]

Your old friend

aka Fred Flathead

[EddyR]

Hi Frank!!
I think I tried this system before but it has been a long time, but, it was K&B clear, not KSB.  What I did was to apply the clear to the model and wipe off the excess clear with a paper towel.  I wiped off the clear until the model felt almost dry.  Let the stuff set for two days then sanded with 220 grit paper.  Then a second coat was applied and sanded with 220 grit sandpaper after the clear cured.  This filled the grain of the wood and made a durable finishing base.  Doped, papered, and finished as normal from there.  It worked pretty well, but I wasn't happy with the weight of the finished model so I never tried it again (stuck with good old dope from there on).

See ya old friend,
Mikey

 

From much experience with both products I will tell you they are nothing alike. Also the KBS can be thinned with any acrylic lacquer. I have used DupliColor lacquer up to 70% with no problems. I used KBS on bicycle frames long before it was mentioned on here for model use. I used it on this  restored 1972 Raleigh bike about five years ago.
Ed

[frank williams]

Gosh, Mike good to hear from you .....

The K&B was a two part mix .... the KBS is a one part urethane ..... it cures pretty good .... but I guess I haven't thinned it enough yet to feel comfortable using it .... I'll try some test pieces.  The K&B clear using satin finish hardner was thinned and used to brush down 0.5 oz glass onto the raw wood ..... a second thinned coat with the satin finish hardner and sanded was a pretty good base finish.

I'll always remember the '92 Nats in Chicopee when it rained ...  it rained a bunch .... Mike patrolled around the stunt circles with swim mask, snorkel, and flippers.  Great times.

...... good to hear from you ...
Frank

[MikeyPratt]

See ya old friend,
Mikey



Speaking of old friends, how are you doing "Super Dave"?

I'll never forget that chapter of the Nat's.

Your old friend

Hey Paul!!
I'm dong pretty good, how about you?  Yea that was one of the most memorable Nat's for sure.   Even to this day it kind of chokes me up when flyers like you and others helped put Super Day together again.  For those that weren't their, SD was in many pieces after the up line broke (a front row 19 point model).

Later Buddy,
Mikey