Real rubber innertubes

[Bootlegger]

 Where can a fellow get some real rubber? The fake stuff doesn't last at all and I would like to get some if it is available..

       Thanks,

[Tim Wescott]

Define "real rubber".  Latex?  Neoprene?  Vulcanized?  Not?  Perhaps if you described what you had, what you have, and what you want, then folks would be better equipped to help.

[Bootlegger]

 Thank ya' Tim, I am wanting something that fuel doesn't eat up so dad gum much, I use these sometime to install tanks on profile models.
 The rubber bands just don't last at all.
  Thanks for your help...

[Garf]

Every week I have to replace 2 or 3 bands.

[Tim Wescott]

If your question is where to find inner tubes that can be used for rubber bands -- go to your nearest bike shop, or the sporting goods section of your local department store.  Get a mountain bike inner tube, and whack sections out of that.

If you go to a bike shop, you may be able to get a junk tube for free if you explain why you want it.

[FLOYD CARTER]

SIG markets some nice and sturdy rubber bands.  Used, I guess, for strapping wings to fuselages.  They are STOUT, and will stretch to about 10" or more.

They do not go bad subjected to glo fuel or gasoline/oil.

Floyd

[Larry Renger]

Small silicone fuel hose tied into a loop should last pretty much forever! 

[Jim Kraft]

I have used bicycle innertubes cut like said above, and they seem to hold up really well. Narrow motorcycle tubes work well for larger tanks. Plastic ties work pretty well also but are hard to keep tight unless you use foam rubber behind them. But that gets sticky and messy over time too. I have found that the more solid you mount the tank the better run you will have.

[David Hoover]

Use black Ty-wraps.  Pull them up tight, clip[ off the excess and go fly.  They'll last at least as long as the plane.

[Bob Reeves]

Use black Ty-wraps.  Pull them up tight, clip[ off the excess and go fly.  They'll last at least as long as the plane.

This is the correct answer, haven't used rubber bands in years, no reason to put up with the headaches.

[Steve Helmick]

Define "real rubber".  Latex?  Neoprene?  Vulcanized?  Not?  Perhaps if you described what you had, what you have, and what you want, then folks would be better equipped to help.

Technically, I think Tim is exactly correct...tires and tubes are mostly Butyl synthetic "rubber".

Daniel Dirt used to make 'o-rings' out of silicone fuel hose to strap his tanks in, but I think also had a "ledge" to support the tank and used shims to adjust tank height. I don't recall how he did the joinery, but no knots. Neoprene O-rings might work with some planning and the "ledge" plan. Our NW Profile Stunt rules would allow incorporating a pair of plywood ledges into the nose/wing joint structure to both stiffen the nose and also support the tank, with shims top and bottom to adjust height. Worth a thought.   

SIG rubber bands are certainly a lot better than the ones from the 5 & 10.

Nylon wire ties work and have one thing in common with rubber bands...they're ugly.

Metal tanks give more mounting options but also have some drawbacks. I guess we have to assume Gil is using plastic tanks? Gil is being very secretive, pretty much as usual.    Steve

[bill bischoff]

Does anybody use real live O-rings? Seems like you could find a compound and a size that would work.

[John Stiles]

Bike tubes are good but this is better:

[Dan McEntee]

  Inner tube rubber bands are a staple in the tool box of a enduro motorcycle racer. I've used them for all sorts of things, but haven't tried any for mounting tanks. Motorcycle tubes are pretty thick, probably tricky to cut to the proper width? Back in the day, the European brand Barum tires and tubes were widely used, and the inner tubes were red, which I was told were natural rubber. I may have an old one out in my motorcycle shed, but will have to really dig to find it. I have taken lots of tubes out of vintage Penton , Husqvarna and Hercules dirt bikes I have been fixing up but just not sure any had the red tubes still in the tires. It's time for a fall cleaning of the shed and garage, so will check and see if I can even cut a tube into a usable tank rubber band. I have an old paper cutter that may make it easier.
  Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee

[Mike Keville]

Boy, does THIS one bring back memories!  Circa 1952/53 in South 'Jersey we used sliced inner-tube sections to secure our Pylon-brand nylon tanks to Sterling Ringmasters, Mustangs and Yak-9s.  Ugly...but functional.

[John Stiles]

Boy, does THIS one bring back memories!  Circa 1952/53 in South 'Jersey we used sliced inner-tube sections to secure our Pylon-brand nylon tanks to Sterling Ringmasters, Mustangs and Yak-9s.  Ugly...but functional.

Yep, I've been doing it for a pretty long time myself. A good pair of scissors is the way to go. We took car tubes and made slingshots, and had wars shooting small green plums. The bicycle tubes are several sizes, and are easy to come by.

[dirty dan]

Daniel Dirt used to make 'o-rings' out of silicone fuel hose to strap his tanks in, but I think also had a "ledge" to support the tank and used shims to adjust tank height. I don't recall how he did the joinery, but no knots. Neoprene O-rings might work with some planning and the "ledge" plan. Our NW Profile Stunt rules would allow incorporating a pair of plywood ledges into the nose/wing joint structure to both stiffen the nose and also support the tank, with shims top and bottom to adjust height. Worth a thought.   

Few are as observant as Steve, but it has been a while...

I would use bands made from silicone fuel line to hold tanks in my Impacts. Cut a length which looks right. Join ends by sticking a 1 1/2" piece of all-thread rod (4-40) in each. Wrap with serving wire to create quite a strong loop. Never had a failure but still I would use two of these loops.

With the Wimpact series of profile models standard "O" rings from Local Hardware (McLendon's here in the NW) were very effective, along with being neater and more reliable than rubber bands of any sort.

There was no actual ledge for tank to sit on, although it sure would look like it with model sitting in pit area. Instead, tanks would sit on shims between tank and bracketry, said pieces not being moveable. This was quite handy as shims were also used on top of tank, although each shim stack contained various thickness shims, from 1/64" to, well, much thicker. The handy part came in when needing to move tank up or down that magic 1/64". One could remove appropriate shim from, for example, upper shim stack, slip it into lower stack, strap tank back on and go fly with confidence in the adjustment. And no lost shims or confusion.

Dan

[john gunn]

one thing to use and it works well is the pony tail bands that come 10 for a dollar

[Bootlegger]

john g. are you gonna make the contest Oct 18&19? The field will be open on the 17th also so come on down and play with the other guy's...

[john gunn]

no

[Bill Burton]

This is how I mount a tank on a profile if the tank is not recessed into the doubler.  I use metal tanks that have a flat backside and are made for profiles.  I use RTV Silicone and mount the tank to a 1/8" thick plywood backplate that has slots cut on each end of the plate so you can adjust the tank height by loosing two 4-40 bolts.

You simply lay the back of the tank against the backplate and run a bead of RTV around the perimeter using your finger to create a fillet between the tank and doubler.  Let it dry then mount the whole assembly against the doubler, insert the two bolts, adjust to height you want and tighten down.

That's all there is to it.

BB

[dirty dan]

one thing to use and it works well is the pony tail bands that come 10 for a dollar

Agreed. Derek Moran once sent me a nice selection of these things (purchased in a grocery store as I recall) and they were quite effective. Even had a pleasant smell, this to entice young girls I suppose. Too bad they were just too gay for me to use in public...

Dan