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Author Topic: Quad Copter props  (Read 2788 times)

Offline Matt Neumann

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Quad Copter props
« on: August 18, 2014, 07:59:01 PM »
Ok guys, I have read the thread on the WC and have found that there is a tangent thread going on about quad copter props and my name kind of came up.  So as to not hijack that thread, I am "taking it outside" so to speak.

I thought I would post what I have been doing and what has happened with my props that I am using so everyone can get it from the horses mouth.  

First off, the prop that came up was one that I had used and it did crack right at the base of the blade at the hub.  One flight it was fine and flying at 5.3 second lap times.  I landed, set up and took off again and it was 6.3 second lap times.  Ok, I did not change anything and since this is electric I knew something was amiss and just flew out the flight.  It was a long 5 minutes and 30 seconds.  When I got down I noticed one of the blades was out of line.  I could also wiggle it a bit so I found what the problem was.  

What caused this?  Well, I fly off of a friends front yard.  They are kind enough to mow a spot right next to their driveway for me to take off.  Landings are a little different.  I land in taller grass.  I really need to move my gear foreword a bit more but have not and the plane can tend to nose plant at the very end of the landing.  Now if the prop is horizontal like it normally is on an IC engine, no problem but since my Enterprise is electric the props stops where it wants too.  In some cases it tends to be vertical.  Not a good spot.  I think I just nosed over a bit and hit the prop cracking the hub and did not know it.  This is not a fault in the design of the prop.  The props were never designed to be used as a brake.  I have cracked IC props once in a while this way too.  Not very often however but still have.  I brought this prop to the NATS just to show as a conversation piece.  Little did I know just how well that would turn out to be true.  

In the case of Kenny Stevens losing his prop.  It sounds like to me that his was fully running and just tried to be used as a plow.  Again the props were never designed for such as thing.  I have tried to do this with IC engine props too (again not too often, doing so really hurts your pocket book not to mention your pride).  When this happened with the IC engine props, I got the same result.  Maybe not at the hub but somewhere along the blade length it broke.  Again not the fault of the prop because it was asked to do something it was never designed to do.  No matter what prop, when it comes to prop vs. ground, ground wins.

Bob Hunt did fly my plane (thanks for the advice after words on how to trim out my plane better!) and yes he was asked to make a short take off roll.  The reason for this is because I do not have a lot of ground clearance.  With my tip plates on the stab it makes it hard to see if you have neutral.  I learned to look at the reflection in the rudder as to what is neutral but Bob flying the plane for the first time would not know for sure.  So it was better to ask for caution on the first flight especially.  I like large diameter props, I really did not want a shorter one.  Did that once on an official at the NATS with an IC engine.  Real exciting in a bad way.  Carbon prop vs. asphalt and asphalt wins every time.  

I do believe these props are quite safe if taken care of.  I do have a couple of things I do want to mention as to look for.  

At the NATS I had a 14 inch prop on my plane.  It has a smaller hub on it.  This is the same size hub that the 13 inch props have on them.  Or at least the ones that I have and have seen.  I also think these are the same size as the 12 inch, 11 inch and probably the 10 inch props.  At 10 inches these are overbuilt.  13 inches work fine.  I have never had a problem and since Orestes uses them (he is the one that told me about them) I would assume he has never had a problem because something like we are discussing (shedding blades) would be disastrous and I am sure he would not use something that dangerous.  Howard obviously has used them and liked them without any problems.  Kenny same way unless you hit the ground with the motor running.  So with all that, I would say the 13 inch props are quite safe.

Now I did have another interesting thing with one of my 14 inch props with the same size hub as the 13.  I did have another get weak at the hub with both blades.  It was the one I had on at the NATS.  What happened was the plane slowly slowed down.  I had a fair number of flights and things were holding fine.  Then one day the plane went a tenth of a second slower.  So I increased the RPM by a 100.  Flew fine at where it was.  Then after a few more flights it slowed some more.  Again added a bit more RPM.  Then I switched motors and noticed that I can move the blades a bit at the hub.  I compared this to a new one and the one I was flying wiggled a bit more.  So the blade was getting weak.  The funny thing is the amount of current that I used out of the battery also went down even though I increased RPMs.  Not sure why but it did.  Now why did I not notice the props sooner.  Simple, the weather was getting hotter and more humid.  The plane (Enterprise and last years Stuka) always slowed down in hot weather and sped up in cool weather due to the density of the air.  So I thought it was normal since things were heating up here in the Midwest.  

So what is the moral of the story?  I am thinking that the hub strength for the 13 and lower is just fine for out purposes judging by the number of flights I did, Howard has done and of coarse Orestes who probably has more flights on this size prop than anybody.  14's "COULD" be pushing the envelope just a bit.  Really more testing is needed first.  I would not doubt that my prop may have been used as a brake now and again.  This would also explain the hub joint getting weaker on my example.  I am going to talk to someone this weekend at the FCM contest who knows more about composites than I do (and it don't take much to know more than I do in that regards) about the possibility of reinforcing the blade to hub area.  

What have I done to help correct this.  I have gotten my hands on some 15 inch props that I cut down to 14 inch.  These 15 inch props have the next size up hub.  The hub is not only bigger in diameter but thicker as well.  The blades at the base are also thicker giving more strength at that area.  I used this prop at the WKSI contest this last weekend.  Several people saw this and noticed just how beefy they seem to be.  Sparky even thought you could run these on an IC engine although I don't know if I would go that far.  I do think I mowed a bit a grass with it but did not use it as a plow and don't want to test that part of things either.  

So, what is the final moral of the story?  I feel these props are strong enough for our purposes judging by the number of flights by the people mentioned earlier.  Just watch what size hub you are getting.  I know there are some out there that have a very small hub.  I would not recommend these.     But to me the thought of just outlawing them outright as some have implied is a bad idea and way premature.

One thing I am interested in is how they are made.  I would be very interested in seeing a video of the process that is used in the factories that make these if one exits.

Boy did this get long.

Matt Neumann  (probably should get Sparky to fix the spelling of my last name)
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Re: Quad Copter props
« Reply #1 on: August 18, 2014, 08:44:39 PM »
I've been designing and manufacturing my own composite props for years now but have not done a stunt prop so, I'm curious. Care to give some actual numbers for hub thickness and diameter or maybe a link to the products you're talking about?

MM

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Re: Quad Copter props
« Reply #2 on: August 18, 2014, 11:32:03 PM »
Matt Neumann  (probably should get Sparky to fix the spelling of my last name)

Done
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Offline Matt Neumann

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Re: Quad Copter props
« Reply #3 on: August 19, 2014, 05:58:58 PM »
Done

Thanks Sparky,  No harm done.  You were not the first and won't be the last to get the spelling wrong.   :##

Matt
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Offline Matt Neumann

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Re: Quad Copter props
« Reply #4 on: August 19, 2014, 06:11:06 PM »
I've been designing and manufacturing my own composite props for years now but have not done a stunt prop so, I'm curious. Care to give some actual numbers for hub thickness and diameter or maybe a link to the products you're talking about?

MM

Would you believe that I thought of the same thing while I was trying to snooze last night?

The smaller version of the hubs.  These are the ones that I think start at around 10 inches and go to the 14 inch ones that I have.  There may be larger hub versions out there for the 14 inch diameter but I have not found them yet.  Anyway, the diameter of the hub is 13/16", the thickness is just under a 1/4".  The width of the blade at the hub is 9/16" while the thickness is .115 inches. 

The cut down 15 inch blade is 7/8", while the thickness is 5/16".  The width of the blade at the hub is 3/4" while the thickness is .165 inches.  These prop blades also transition into the hub more smoothly than the others.  The others look like there is a sharp transition from hub to blade while the cut down versions have more of a radius.  The helps eliminate the stress riser that I think is the biggest culprit here since the seem to get weak right at the transition from blade to hub. 

Matt
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Offline James Mills

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Re: Quad Copter props
« Reply #5 on: August 19, 2014, 06:17:01 PM »
Would you believe that I thought of the same thing while I was trying to snooze last night?

The smaller version of the hubs.  These are the ones that I think start at around 10 inches and go to the 14 inch ones that I have.  There may be larger hub versions out there for the 14 inch diameter but I have not found them yet.  Anyway, the diameter of the hub is 13/16", the thickness is just under a 1/4".  The width of the blade at the hub is 9/16" while the thickness is .115 inches. 

The cut down 15 inch blade is 7/8", while the thickness is 5/16".  The width of the blade at the hub is 3/4" while the thickness is .165 inches.  These prop blades also transition into the hub more smoothly than the others.  The others look like there is a sharp transition from hub to blade while the cut down versions have more of a radius.  The helps eliminate the stress riser that I think is the biggest culprit here since the seem to get weak right at the transition from blade to hub. 

Matt


Matt,
Nice write up.  I thought your plane looked good this weekend (I think the only problem you had was some guy messing up the flight order #^ n~)
James
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Offline Paul Smith

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Re: Quad Copter props
« Reply #6 on: August 19, 2014, 08:36:16 PM »
Pretty soon ALL of our CL equipment will be RC stuff adapted to CL. 
Get used to it.
Motors, batteries, 2.4 controllers, MonoKote, wheels, AMA,,,,,
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Re: Quad Copter props
« Reply #7 on: August 19, 2014, 11:32:59 PM »
Matthew repitches his props by softening them with a heat gun.  I've always though this could weaken them if you aren't really careful (and maybe if you are).  The quadcopter props I've seen, though, are made with good resin with high Tg.  Boiling water isn't hot enough to faze them.  Maybe we need to use Dan Rutherford's hot-oil method. 
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Offline Randy Cuberly

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Re: Quad Copter props
« Reply #8 on: August 20, 2014, 12:20:03 AM »
Matthew repitches his props by softening them with a heat gun.  I've always though this could weaken them if you aren't really careful (and maybe if you are).  The quadcopter props I've seen, though, are made with good resin with high Tg.  Boiling water isn't hot enough to faze them.  Maybe we need to use Dan Rutherford's hot-oil method. 

Does anyone know precisely what material they are made from?

If I can find the properties I have the resources to do a finite element analysis on some of them!

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Offline pmackenzie

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Re: Quad Copter props
« Reply #9 on: August 20, 2014, 05:15:47 AM »
Anyone have a link to these props?

Thanks,

Pat MacKenzie
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Offline David Hoover

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Re: Quad Copter props
« Reply #10 on: August 20, 2014, 06:09:54 AM »
Hobby King has them.

Try this link as well http://www.ebay.com/sch/happychoice2009/m.html?item=221268979966&pt=US_Radio_Control_Control_Line&hash=item3384a8b0fe&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

You'll have to search through all the other CF stuff and the sizes/pitches are limited but the pricing is better than Hobby King.  I ordered a couple of sizes from the above link last spring and was impressed with their service.  A lot of places handle quad-copter props but not many have anything over 12" diameter.

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Offline Matt Neumann

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Re: Quad Copter props
« Reply #11 on: August 20, 2014, 10:42:28 AM »
Here is Hobby King's stuff. 

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/RC_PRODUCT_SEARCH.asp?strSearch=carbon+propeller

The ones that I have, Dad found on ebay and got them from the suppliers themselves.  The only thing is, it is hit and miss as to what is available at the time. 

While window shopping last night I found that above link to all the stuff Hobby King has. 

This link,

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__39777__15x4E_Carbon_Fiber_Propellers_L_H_and_R_H_Rotation_1_pair_.html

I think are the props that I have that I cut down to 14 inch diameter.  Notice the hub thickness.  The pitch is less than I want so that is where I repitch them to a 7 about 2/3rd of the out from the hub.  And yes, Howard is quite right, you have to get these things quite hot in order to move them.  I had to do that with the ones Randy Smith sells too.  I forget the name but it starts with an M.  These appear to be made the same way just for IC engines.

Then I came across these.

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__25696__Carbon_Fiber_Propellers_14X7_LH_and_RH_Rotation_Pair.html

Notice the hub thickness of these.  I think I may have found a 14 inch prop with the pitch I am looking for that has the thicker hub that may be more desirable.  The ones that MAY have a problem are 6 mm thick at the hub while these are 8.  I am planning on getting some and see what happens. 
Matt Neumann

Offline Dennis Toth

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Re: Quad Copter props
« Reply #12 on: August 20, 2014, 11:29:07 AM »
Matt,
Interesting information. One thing you might check with these props is the knurling on the spinner backplate and how hard you tighten them down. Some of the backplates are very course and can cause pressure points that could be a problem, they work ok with wood or plasic but CF is a hard resin. Seems that for any CF props a course sanding on a smooth backplate does the trick, or a plastic backplate spinner.

I have a few of these props and they seem no thinner than the old Tornado press wood plasticotes (and we used them for speed ships on IC @ 18K, no problems). Banning them when so many fliers are having good results with no problems makes it look like there are other forces at play.

Run them as you would any other prop, stay out of the line of prop and all is fine.

Best,   DennisT       

Offline dirty dan

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Re: Quad Copter props
« Reply #13 on: August 20, 2014, 11:53:31 AM »
Matthew repitches his props by softening them with a heat gun.  I've always though this could weaken them if you aren't really careful (and maybe if you are).  The quadcopter props I've seen, though, are made with good resin with high Tg.  Boiling water isn't hot enough to faze them.  Maybe we need to use Dan Rutherford's hot-oil method. 

Ahem. The idea to use cooking oil to heat props prior to tweaking them came from Derek Moran. Sure enough, one can easily generate quite a lot of heat and up to a certain point (well below the temperature required for effectiveness) not even be bothered by smoke or fumes. The vast majority of my experience is with APC props from 9- to 14-inch diameters.

As to heating props with a heat gun, I know some folk do this. Even I tried it a couple times on APC props. Such is not suggested...

Dan
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Re: Quad Copter props
« Reply #14 on: August 22, 2014, 07:38:22 AM »
The idea to use cooking oil to heat props prior to tweaking them came from Derek Moran.

As does so many other great ideas. 
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Online Lauri Malila

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Re: Quad Copter props
« Reply #15 on: August 22, 2014, 08:26:01 AM »
But I don't get it, what is the point in heating with oil? You can overheat it with a good heat gun too and without risk of hot oil attacking the resin.
The most important thing in prop tweaking, no matter if it is plastic or wood, is to heat slowly. With too quick heating it is possible to burn the surface and leave the center of blade cold. When you twist a blade that is not hot all the way through, you create big interlaminar shear forces that may start a failure later.
Another problem is the woven carbon skin in those props, it tends to wrinkle during tweaking. It may be enough to start a failure, at least the props that Kenny showed me had a very thin airfoil near root.
The woven surface is good for torsion stiffness and against cracking but personally I would use more UD carbon and perhaps a thicker airfoil to make the root stiff enough and use woven stuff only in tip areas that have to be thinner.
Also, you can clearly see that part of those props design comes from facilitating the manufacturing process. When blade cross section is thin all the way through, it is much easier for small hands to lay the stuff into mold. Remember how cheap they are!
Who is first to make a better copy of the Chinese prop? That would be something:)

Lauri

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Re: Quad Copter props
« Reply #16 on: August 22, 2014, 09:34:23 AM »

First off, the prop that came up was one that I had used and it did crack right at the base of the blade at the hub.  One flight it was fine and flying at 5.3 second lap times.  

<Snip (fixed that, heh)>
Boy did this get long.

Matt Neumann  (probably should get Sparky to fix the spelling of my last name)

Matt, when you were practicing on the grass with us that morning, and I pointed out that it looked like your spinner point was not concentric on spool up when I launched you, did that end up being related in any way to the cracked prop? Or was the spinner cone just not made right, or did you find a bent shaft in the motor? Was curious, but you know how the Nat's is, the week is a blur and I never got back with you after that to see what you found.

EricV

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Re: Quad Copter props
« Reply #17 on: August 22, 2014, 09:58:17 AM »
But I don't get it, what is the point in heating with oil? You can overheat it with a good heat gun too and without risk of hot oil attacking the resin.
The most important thing in prop tweaking, no matter if it is plastic or wood, is to heat slowly. With too quick heating it is possible to burn the surface and leave the center of blade cold. When you twist a blade that is not hot all the way through, you create big interlaminar shear forces that may start a failure later.
Another problem is the woven carbon skin in those props, it tends to wrinkle during tweaking. It may be enough to start a failure, at least the props that Kenny showed me had a very thin airfoil near root.
The woven surface is good for torsion stiffness and against cracking but personally I would use more UD carbon and perhaps a thicker airfoil to make the root stiff enough and use woven stuff only in tip areas that have to be thinner.
Also, you can clearly see that part of those props design comes from facilitating the manufacturing process. When blade cross section is thin all the way through, it is much easier for small hands to lay the stuff into mold. Remember how cheap they are!

Good points, Lauri. 

Oil attacking the resin?  Really? 
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Offline Douglas Ames

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Re: Quad Copter props
« Reply #18 on: August 22, 2014, 10:35:26 AM »
I would think that using hot oil would give a more even heat to the entire blade surface than a heat gun, where the application of heat is more localized. Better temperature control.
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Re: Quad Copter props
« Reply #19 on: August 22, 2014, 10:36:08 AM »
[quote  Really? 
[/quote]

Well, something may happen. But I'm not sure at all. It's just my common sense that says so.

L

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Re: Quad Copter props
« Reply #20 on: August 22, 2014, 12:19:38 PM »
I would think that using hot oil would give a more even heat to the entire blade surface than a heat gun, where the application of heat is more localized. Better temperature control.

I think you need to apply heat locally to get the pitch distribution you want, but you need to heat the whole cross section fairly uniformly.  That's easier to do if you heat it with something that's not much hotter than the glass transition temperature (and I don't really know what I'm talking about here: it's just a term I've heard) of the prop resin. 
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Offline Matt Neumann

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Re: Quad Copter props
« Reply #21 on: August 24, 2014, 06:47:00 PM »
Matt, when you were practicing on the grass with us that morning, and I pointed out that it looked like your spinner point was not concentric on spool up when I launched you, did that end up being related in any way to the cracked prop? Or was the spinner cone just not made right, or did you find a bent shaft in the motor? Was curious, but you know how the Nat's is, the week is a blur and I never got back with you after that to see what you found.

EricV

Eric, Right now the spinner is turning better than before so I am assuming I did not have it one quite right.  I seriously doubt that it had anything to do with the cracked prop. 
Matt Neumann

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Re: Quad Copter props
« Reply #22 on: August 24, 2014, 07:45:38 PM »
The woven surface is good for torsion stiffness and against cracking but personally I would use more UD carbon and perhaps a thicker airfoil to make the root stiff enough and use woven stuff only in tip areas that have to be thinner.
Also, you can clearly see that part of those props design comes from facilitating the manufacturing process. When blade cross section is thin all the way through, it is much easier for small hands to lay the stuff into mold. Remember how cheap they are!

I reread this after seeing Kenny's description of his broken prop having few spanwise fibers.  It's good information to keep in mind.  Looks like most of these props are good for an indefinite number of flights as long as they don't hit something.  That they break when they do hit something could be advantageous: when you stick your finger in the path or when you fly into the ground.  They may be the bees' knees for electric combat.  They're cheap, and they might not bend your motor shaft on impact.  We chose carbon props over glass props for combat in the old days because the carbon props would snap and save crankshafts. 

For props that have tiny hubs and are scarily thin, it might pay to mold a thicker hub and blade root over the prop.  It would be cheaper and easier than molding a whole prop.
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Offline Tim Wescott

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Re: Quad Copter props
« Reply #23 on: August 28, 2014, 03:35:13 PM »
That's easier to do if you heat it with something that's not much hotter than the glass transition temperature (and I don't really know what I'm talking about here: it's just a term I've heard) of the prop resin.  

http://composite.about.com/od/referencematerials/a/Thermal-Properties-Of-Composites.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glass_transition

Different epoxies have different Tg, so you may wish to inquire with your prop manufacturer (or with people who might know) just how hot you need to get it.  Most people probably use whatever is ordinary, but you never know when someone who's fanatical about quality will start making props.
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