Prowler is coming along......

[Shug Emery]

Getting down to final assembly and then some sanding and whether to paint or Monocote the Prowler. Leaning towards paint.
Still have to hook up the pushrods. I little short coming from wing to flap. Not enough to bend an L to get into the control horn. Gotta figure out something there. Solder on another bit of rod? Are folks using clevis on pushrods?
Got the OS .40 tuned by Randy Smith breaking in and am excited to get airborne.
Thinking I'll start with 60' to 65' lines. Seem's about right but trimming will tell the tale.
Been reading up on the forum. So much good info. Ready to get back on the Pattern))))))
Getting a Uniflow tank to put on it. Have an old 4oz wedge but Uniflow seems to dictate the day. Even been reading up on the Plastic Clunk Uniflow.
Would a 4 oz be good for an OS .40 FP? Maybe 4 1/2  oz?
Any opinions welcome. Ya'll seem to have good ones.
Shug

[kenneth cook]

             Depending on venturi size, prop size,  I wouldn't think your going to make the pattern using 4 oz's. Not that it's a unobtainable goal, I just feel the 4.5 oz. at least gives me room. In the cooler seasons, my 4 oz. planes just don't get my planes  through the pattern. I'm sure climate and altitude is also a factor. I also don't use the stock mufflers so this is more than likely another factor. As for metal wedge vs plastic clunk this could save you some up front weight. You would be surprised of the weight difference. I've had plastic clunk tanks work well vs the metal. Experimentation is the best thing to try. You could solder on a Dubro threaded coupler for your pushrod. I would specifically use a 4-40 threaded coupler. Don't use the 2-56 as this will eventually fail where the threads meet the tube. These couplers are for .093 wire. If the wire diameter is smaller, you could increase the diameter using some tubing soldered onto your wire. Making the wire as clean as possible is a must and I prefer to tin the wire prior to soldering.  A 4-40 clevis or ball link will fit that coupler. The coupler will add about 1 1/2" in length to your wire.  your line length should be quite suitable at 63' eyelet to eyelet. Ken

[Paul Taylor]

Hey Sean
What some folks do, me included is make up carbon fiber pushrods with threaded inserts in both ends. Then use heavy duty 4-40 ball links. This will allow you to adjust the controls. It you have not covered it the it would be a quick and easy upgrade.

If you want a quick finish, kote the wings and rattle can the rest with rust-o-leum.

If you want a dope finish. Polyspan and all Brodak dope.

Looks good.

[Paul Taylor]

Also might suggest a weight tip box. Looks cleaner. 

[Steve Scott]

And my Prowler - been sitting this way for 12+ years.  Carbon veil on the wings.  Note how I inlaid the composite motor mount with a router.

[Shug Emery]

            Depending on venturi size, prop size,  I wouldn't think your going to make the pattern using 4 oz's. Not that it's a unobtainable goal, I just feel the 4.5 oz. at least gives me room. In the cooler seasons, my 4 oz. planes just don't get my planes  through the pattern. I'm sure climate and altitude is also a factor. I also don't use the stock mufflers so this is more than likely another factor. As for metal wedge vs plastic clunk this could save you some up front weight. You would be surprised of the weight difference. I've had plastic clunk tanks work well vs the metal. Experimentation is the best thing to try. You could solder on a Dubro threaded coupler for your pushrod. I would specifically use a 4-40 threaded coupler. Don't use the 2-56 as this will eventually fail where the threads meet the tube. These couplers are for .093 wire. If the wire diameter is smaller, you could increase the diameter using some tubing soldered onto your wire. Making the wire as clean as possible is a must and I prefer to tin the wire prior to soldering.  A 4-40 clevis or ball link will fit that coupler. The coupler will add about 1 1/2" in length to your wire.  your line length should be quite suitable at 63' eyelet to eyelet. Ken

Got an order in for a 4 1/2 inflow tank....will look into adjustable mounting. Have some plastic tanks laying around from R/C . Did a wire cit and solder today. Non-resin solder thin wire wrapped and heat shrunk. Trying a ball joint clevis for now. Whew.......seems like it should work. It is 4-40.
I truly thank you for your input.

Hey Sean
What some folks do, me included is make up carbon fiber pushrods with threaded inserts in both ends. Then use heavy duty 4-40 ball links. This will allow you to adjust the controls. It you have not covered it the it would be a quick and easy upgrade.

If you want a quick finish, kote the wings and rattle can the rest with rust-o-leum.

If you want a dope finish. Polyspan and all Brodak dope.

Looks good.

Did the ball links today with carbon fiber))))) Your right...easy adjust. At this point may go with a not to labor intensive paint job. The instructions give a fairly good outline.
I appreciate your comment.

Also might suggest a weight tip box. Looks cleaner.  

Now ya' done it)))))) I just may, I might. I just may. A wee bit of cutting I reckon. Will explore the technique.

And my Prowler - been sitting this way for 12+ years.  Carbon veil on the wings.  Note how I inlaid the composite motor mount with a router.

Cool to see another Prowler! Not familiar with carbon veil. Did you still sheet the wings with balsa? Does the carbon veil replace that?
Thanks for posting that.

[Steve Scott]

Cool to see another Prowler! Not familiar with carbon veil. Did you still sheet the wings with balsa? Does the carbon veil replace that?
Thanks for posting that.

Think of the carbon veil as black tissue.  It goes on after the balsa sheeting.  You can still see the glue seams through the carbon.  Not sure if it adds any significant strength/stiffness but it does provide a good base for the finish coats, just as silkspan does.

[Randy Cuberly]

Shug,
You may be aware of this already and have simply stuck the flaps and elevators on temporarily, but if they are permanently mounted now you have a problem that I would call to your attention.  You do not want big gaps like that on your hinge lines.  It can create serious trimming issues and makes it very difficult to seal the hinge lines.
The hinge barrels should be inlet into the flaps and elevators to eliminate most if not all of that gap.  If you know about this already and are planning on changing that my apologies.  If not, I would strongly recommend you do whatever is necessary to take the hinges out and change this situation. 
You could consider using balsa strip glued to the flap over the hinge barrels and then relieved where the hinges are or just glued to the flaps and elevators in between the hinges.

The hinge lines should look basically like these in the picture.

Randy Cuberly

[Gary Mondry]

On the other hand, Paul Walker did pretty well at the Nats this year with hinge gaps reported to be on the order of .080" (SN Jan/Feb 2014, page 22), which is full barrel diameter for the large Dubro, but sealed with tape, as we all should do.

Gary

[Randy Cuberly]

On the other hand, Paul Walker did pretty well at the Nats this year with hinge gaps reported to be on the order of .080" (SN Jan/Feb 2014, page 22), which is full barrel diameter for the large Dubro, but sealed with tape, as we all should do.

Gary

Yeah there's always one...!   

Do whatever you want...I do it my way!

Randy Cuberly

[Brett Buck]

Shug,
You may be aware of this already and have simply stuck the flaps and elevators on temporarily, but if they are permanently mounted now you have a problem that I would call to your attention.  You do not want big gaps like that on your hinge lines.  It can create serious trimming issues and makes it very difficult to seal the hinge lines.
The hinge barrels should be inlet into the flaps and elevators to eliminate most if not all of that gap.

    Mine are definitely in that area, they only look less because the hinge pin takes up a fair bit of it. But of course it is sealed. I leave this much gap intentionally because it makes it easier to seal.

    Brett

[Shug Emery]

Think of the carbon veil as black tissue.  It goes on after the balsa sheeting.  You can still see the glue seams through the carbon.  Not sure if it adds any significant strength/stiffness but it does provide a good base for the finish coats, just as silkspan does.

I like the name....Carbon Veil. 
Thanks for the explanation.

Shug,
You may be aware of this already and have simply stuck the flaps and elevators on temporarily, but if they are permanently mounted now you have a problem that I would call to your attention.  You do not want big gaps like that on your hinge lines.  It can create serious trimming issues and makes it very difficult to seal the hinge lines.
The hinge barrels should be inlet into the flaps and elevators to eliminate most if not all of that gap.  If you know about this already and are planning on changing that my apologies.  If not, I would strongly recommend you do whatever is necessary to take the hinges out and change this situation. 
You could consider using balsa strip glued to the flap over the hinge barrels and then relieved where the hinges are or just glued to the flaps and elevators in between the hinges.

The hinge lines should look basically like these in the picture.

Randy Cuberly

Funny you wrote this as I found these hinge notch tools I made when starting this kit years ago. Forgot what they were but today I found the arlcle by Ward Van Duzer (sorry if I gothis ams wrong). Mine don't look as nice as yours!
Thanks for the heads up.
Pictures below.

On the other hand, Paul Walker did pretty well at the Nats this year with hinge gaps reported to be on the order of .080" (SN Jan/Feb 2014, page 22), which is full barrel diameter for the large Dubro, but sealed with tape, as we all should do.

Gary

Man....that guy can do a pattern. A control line savant or does he practice a lot?

   Mine are definitely in that area, they only look less because the hinge pin takes up a fair bit of it. But of course it is sealed. I leave this much gap intentionally because it makes it easier to seal.

    Brett

That makes sense.
I am going to paint I decided though I have another plane I am going to monocote. Sketched up a really rough design tonight. We just flew on Lufthansa and I was inspired by their grey/yellow colors.

[Brett Buck]

Funny you wrote this as I found these hinge notch tools I made when starting this kit years ago. Forgot what they were but today I found the arlcle by Ward Van Duzer (sorry if I gothis ams wrong). Mine don't look as nice as yours!

     I can't quite tell, but the hinge pins must be in line with the gap, or when you apply the seals, they will "roll" instead of flex/bend the tape. I make very small recesses to just accommodate the radius of the hinge barrels where it goes to the flat, the barrels themselves are entirely in the hinge line. Then, copying some guy from Seattle, I use a single wire hinge pin, so I can remove the flaps entirely after the hinges are glued in.

    This hinge line stuff is WAY more important than what most people worry about, like a few ounces here or there, what airfoil you use, etc. Stunt is all about *detail*.



 

Paul Walker .....
Man....that guy can do a pattern. A control line savant or does he practice a lot?

   I don't know, he's OK, he gets lucky sometimes..

    Actually, of course, PW is a 10- or 11- time National Champion, 5 in a row from 90 to 94, World Champ, and arguably the best who has ever flown stunt (on a very short list of about 4-5 that you could make a good argument about) and also almost certainly one of if not the best engineers who has ever done this. And also a Concours winner.

     Brett

[Shug Emery]

     I can't quite tell, but the hinge pins must be in line with the gap, or when you apply the seals, they will "roll" instead of flex/bend the tape. I make very small recesses to just accommodate the radius of the hinge barrels where it goes to the flat, the barrels themselves are entirely in the hinge line. Then, copying some guy from Seattle, I use a single wire hinge pin, so I can remove the flaps entirely after the hinges are glued in.

    This hinge line stuff is WAY more important than what most people worry about, like a few ounces here or there, what airfoil you use, etc. Stunt is all about *detail*.



 
   I don't know, he's OK, he gets lucky sometimes..

    Actually, of course, PW is a 10- or 11- time National Champion, 5 in a row from 90 to 94, World Champ, and arguably the best who has ever flown stunt (on a very short list of about 4-5 that you could make a good argument about) and also almost certainly one of if not the best engineers who has ever done this. And also a Concours winner.

     Brett

I sure am learning a lot on these comments. Sealing the gap....gonna have to search that. Just wanting to get into the air but I just know the competitive bug will bite. Then all this info will truly come into good use.

[Shug Emery]

Took me half the day to get the push rods, control horns and the likes fitted out. Wow...tried z-bends, L-bends, ball joints, clevis.
Forgot how fiddley this part is))))) And important.
Got the wing epoxied to the fuselage ....first round. Fillets next. Going by the instructions and waiting 24 hours a side for the 30 minute epoxy to really set.
While waiting I started building the 1/2 A electric Flite Streak for some close to home park practice. Got the wing framed up.
The hobby really grabs ya' when it grabs ya'. Fun going to bed with CA on my fingertips.
Shug

[john e. holliday]

Looking good, but I like Sigment as the CA is to hard to chew for this old man.

[Shug Emery]

Looking good, but I like Sigment as the CA is to hard to chew for this old man.

I thankee for that. Bet the Sigment tastes better than CA. Fun to spit those little bits across the room.....
Worked on the Baby Lightning Streak today.

[Shug Emery]

Step by step........boy am I an impatient modeler! Totally forgot how long it takes and how many layers there are to finishing a plane for flight. Control system took me a day to get right...if it is right.
Got the wing fillets done. Used epoxy and microballons. They look OK. I give myself a B- for my efforts. Maybe a C+
As the instruction for the Prowler say...."don't try for an award-winning finish" No problem there  
Still deciding on all paint or just paint on fuselage and Ultracote on wings......fun decisions though.
Shug

[EddyR]

Shrug     You cut the hinge notch in the wrong part. It needs to be in the flap.

[Brett Buck]

Shrug     You cut the hinge notch in the wrong part. It needs to be in the flap.

  Ideally, it is in both to a very slight degree. Recessing the hinge pin into the flap creates a similar problem as recessing it into the TE. This was discussed above.

    Brett

[Shug Emery]

Shrug     You cut the hinge notch in the wrong part. It needs to be in the flap.

Does it make a big difference? I may go back and fix 'em and go half and half. I do plan on sealing the gap.
Thanks for the input....the work continues.
By the way....I grew up in Charlotte. Do you fly out in Huntersville. Is it Waymer Field?
Carry forth.
Shug

[Shug Emery]

  Ideally, it is in both to a very slight degree. Recessing the hinge pin into the flap creates a similar problem as recessing it into the TE. This was discussed above.

    Brett

This I may do........a little on both.
Thanks for chiming in.
Shug

[Brett Buck]

Does it make a big difference? I may go back and fix 'em and go half and half. I do plan on sealing the gap.

   I think it is worth a little effort to fill in the pockets. With Hot Stuff its a few minutes and some scrap balsa, and a sanding block. The issue is that the line of rotation will be in the wrong place to seal the hinges, and the seal will bind the controls up a bit.

    Brett

[Shug Emery]

Does it make a big difference? I may go back and fix 'em and go half and half. I do plan on sealing the gap.
Thanks for the input....the work continues.
By the way....I grew up in Charlotte. . Do you fly out in Huntersville. Is it Waymer Field?
Carry forth.
Shug

Out in Coulwood off Hwy 16. West Meck High Class of 1976.....

[Shug Emery]

  I think it is worth a little effort to fill in the pockets. With Hot Stuff its a few minutes and some scrap balsa, and a sanding block. The issue is that the line of rotation will be in the wrong place to seal the hinges, and the seal will bind the controls up a bit.

    Brett

Then it shall be done. I do want it to fly right and true as I have some make-up practice to do. Would like to get a good pattern in time.
Appreciated.

[Shug Emery]

Got a weight tip box but kinda, sorta hesitant to cut into the wing end to mount it. May just save it for the plane I'll build after a beat this one up getting back into flying C/L.
Reckon I don't mind those weights dangling' off the end.
Will practice up with some 1/2 A to get spinning and getting the Ringmaster Jr in line. A member here is making me a muffler for the old Fox .15.
So hopefully by the time I finish this Prowler I will have had a bit of time in the air.
I can't wait.

[Shug Emery]

Had a good day working on the Prowler. Windy and rainy out and my wife was out with her Mom so I went at it.
Re-did those hinge gaps. Went half and half on them.
De-creased the rudder off-set. Did my lead outs. The articles on here were very helpful. Led me to look at the AMA way.
Sanded a bunch.
Started covering. Made the decision to go monocote and ultracote as I just want to get to flying and painting a stunt plane is un-familiar territory for me. I do want to do a paint job someday but for now.....I just need to get in the air and wring her out and practice some stunt.
Got the top half of the fuse covered and some flying surface edges. The wings and stab have my paper patterns on them so I can visualize the scheme and have patterns to cut the cote. Then I will hand cut my letters for the Prowler.....old school. OK....maybe I'll go decal.
I am a ham-fisted impatient modeler but hope to improve. Also worked on the Baby Lightning Streak a bit today too. Painting that one as it will be an electric model to fly in a local ball field.
Shug the impatient))))

[Will Davis]

Shug,

The prowler looks great, good idea on the monocote,I is easy to get the prowler overweight, I flew one powered by a stock fp 35' ,then a randy smith fp 40 , great motor by Randy , , super  flying bob hunt design , it took me from beginner to advanced, and taught me a lot about trim adjustments, with the controls exposed, it is easy to correct any problems with the flap/ elevator linkage

Yes we fly at Huntersville, it at at the old holbrooks road landfill, a super site, we put on two contest a year, if you are ever in town, look us up, we will bring a plane out for you to fly ,

[RC Storick]

Before you stick that decal down that is where your AMA number should go and the decal on the inboard wing, Just a thought.

[Shug Emery]

Shug,

The prowler looks great, good idea on the monocote,I is easy to get the prowler overweight, I flew one powered by a stock fp 35' ,then a randy smith fp 40 , great motor by Randy , , super  flying bob hunt design , it took me from beginner to advanced, and taught me a lot about trim adjustments, with the controls exposed, it is easy to correct any problems with the flap/ elevator linkage

Yes we fly at Huntersville, it at at the old holbrooks road landfill, a super site, we put on two contest a year, if you are ever in town, look us up, we will bring a plane out for you to fly ,

Thankee Will. I do have a Randy Smith OS .40 for it. Still needs break-in. Glad I went monocote....will get me finished sooner.
Thrilled to here the info on your Prowler. Already thinking of my next plane.
Years ago I went out to Huntersville and remember that field. This around 1991-93. They called the area Waymer field. I played football against David Waymer and had classes with him in the 7th grade. He was a top athlete. Sad about how his life turned. What a good guy. His Dad was always a refree and I think Waymer field is named after him.
I sure appreciate the offer to fly and the offer of a plane is truly nice. If I drive down to see my sisters I'll bring my plane. They live in Charlotte.

Before you stick that decal down that is where your AMA number should go and the decal on the inboard wing, Just a thought.

Yessir.......it is just there for placement as that right wing is the one comped up. I did re-new my AMA. Thanks.

[Brett Buck]

Then it shall be done. I do want it to fly right and true as I have some make-up practice to do. Would like to get a good pattern in time.
Appreciated.

   I have never regretted doing something better. I have sometimes regretted settling for "good enough".

    Just to prove my sincerity, here are the hinge slots in the TE of the wing. First, the TE is built up from 5 layers - (2) 1/4x3/8, (2) 1/32x3/8, and (1) 0.025x3/8. The thinner one in the middle is interrupted to leave the right gap for the hinge. I made it from 1/32 sanded down between two pieces of .025 music wire. The extra 1/32 were to make the thing thick enough. It was designed to use 5/16 for that, but I didn't have enough of that of the right grade. I built up the outside parts with the 1/32 strips attached to each 1/4. Not surprisingly, that warped them about 2" each, towards the glued up side. That't because the heat of the adhesive setting up dried the inner edge of the 1/4", plus a tiny bit of shrinkage. If you let it sit for a few months it would straighten out, but that's not necessary.  Then I attached the interrupted 0.025 to one side. Then I stuck on the other side, flat on the table with wax paper to keep it from sticking, and up against the ruler you see. When it was done, it was dead straight.

   Second picture is it applied to the TE of the wing. I glued it on with the PICA Gluit, the planed and sanded it to match the airfoil. It is critical to get it centered, so I used small T-Pins through the hinge slots stuck into pre-set holes in the foam. Mostly, you could probably get away with just feeling it with your fingers. So now the hinges are in a perfectly straight line, and perfectly centered. Of course the same thing happens to the front of the flap.

    Left to do is to put a very small groove right down the middle of the TE to accommodate the single hinge pin, and to ROUND OFF the sharp edge to about 1/4" radius. It looks generally better to leave it beautifully sharp, but rounding it off makes the flow over the flap more consistent. I will wait on both of those until the wing joined, and for the groove, after it is covered with graphite, to make the groove sharper in the final product. On the flap, it gets the usual wedge shape, with point left a little blunt (like .025,) and the edges at the flap surface radiused for the same reason as radiusing the TE.

    Last is the picture of the completed installation. The gap is quite intentional but sealed with hinge sealing tape per the previous post. It is also quite beat up after one too many hits into the doorframes at the Signature Inn in Muncie over the last 8 years.
 
  This is typical construction for these types of airplanes, but it shows you how much emphasis we put on details. Getting this right is far more important than whether you use a 18% airfoil or a 22% airfoil, saving 2 ounces, or the other silly arguments we have to kill time in the winter.

    Brett

[Shug Emery]

  I have never regretted doing something better. I have sometimes regretted settling for "good enough".

    Just to prove my sincerity, here are the hinge slots in the TE of the wing. First, the TE is built up from 5 layers - (2) 1/4x3/8, (2) 1/32x3/8, and (1) 0.025x3/8. The thinner one in the middle is interrupted to leave the right gap for the hinge. I made it from 1/32 sanded down between two pieces of .025 music wire. The extra 1/32 were to make the thing thick enough. It was designed to use 5/16 for that, but I didn't have enough of that of the right grade. I built up the outside parts with the 1/32 strips attached to each 1/4. Not surprisingly, that warped them about 2" each, towards the glued up side. That't because the heat of the adhesive setting up dried the inner edge of the 1/4", plus a tiny bit of shrinkage. If you let it sit for a few months it would straighten out, but that's not necessary.  Then I attached the interrupted 0.025 to one side. Then I stuck on the other side, flat on the table with wax paper to keep it from sticking, and up against the ruler you see. When it was done, it was dead straight.

   Second picture is it applied to the TE of the wing. I glued it on with the PICA Gluit, the planed and sanded it to match the airfoil. It is critical to get it centered, so I used small T-Pins through the hinge slots stuck into pre-set holes in the foam. Mostly, you could probably get away with just feeling it with your fingers. So now the hinges are in a perfectly straight line, and perfectly centered. Of course the same thing happens to the front of the flap.

    Left to do is to put a very small groove right down the middle of the TE to accommodate the single hinge pin, and to ROUND OFF the sharp edge to about 1/4" radius. It looks generally better to leave it beautifully sharp, but rounding it off makes the flow over the flap more consistent. I will wait on both of those until the wing joined, and for the groove, after it is covered with graphite, to make the groove sharper in the final product. On the flap, it gets the usual wedge shape, with point left a little blunt (like .025,) and the edges at the flap surface radiused for the same reason as radiusing the TE.

    Last is the picture of the completed installation. The gap is quite intentional but sealed with hinge sealing tape per the previous post. It is also quite beat up after one too many hits into the doorframes at the Signature Inn in Muncie over the last 8 years.
 
  This is typical construction for these types of airplanes, but it shows you how much emphasis we put on details. Getting this right is far more important than whether you use a 18% airfoil or a 22% airfoil, saving 2 ounces, or the other silly arguments we have to kill time in the winter.

    Brett

Wow.....you are serious))))) That is amazing. Someday I hope my skills and attention to detail reach that level.
Funny that I said to myself getting back into the hobby that I did not want to build. Hard to resist it though. Fun to be out in the shop working late.
Once I get my armada together maybe I can improve my building skills. in the meantime I will continue to peruse on here.
Many thanks.
Shug

[Brett Buck]

Wow.....you are serious))))) That is amazing. Someday I hope my skills and attention to detail reach that level.

     This is pretty typical, and if I can do it, pretty much anyone can. This entire thing (hinge strips for the tail and wing, both sides, and sticking it to the wing/tail) took around an hour and the simplest of hand tools - a balsa stripper (the $5 one from Master Airscrew that everybody says is junk), and exacto knife, some but rulers from the hardware store, and the cheapest Great Planes sanding bars. Also a razor plane (the $5 one from Master Airscrew that everybody says is junk) and some masking tape. Absolutely nothing unusual aside from maybe the LMI Instrument Makers glue for which you could easily substitute Titebond (original) or or SIG Pro-Weld.

     I have almost nothing that anyone couldn't get for cheap. About the most exotic tools I have for model airplanes are various perma-grit files and the amazingly useful perma-grit sanding block, and I do almost everything with hand tools (and design the airplane in a way not to require much machine work).

      Brett

[Shug Emery]

    This is pretty typical, and if I can do it, pretty much anyone can. This entire thing (hinge strips for the tail and wing, both sides, and sticking it to the wing/tail) took around an hour and the simplest of hand tools - a balsa stripper (the $5 one from Master Airscrew that everybody says is junk), and exacto knife, some but rulers from the hardware store, and the cheapest Great Planes sanding bars. Also a razor plane (the $5 one from Master Airscrew that everybody says is junk) and some masking tape. Absolutely nothing unusual aside from maybe the LMI Instrument Makers glue for which you could easily substitute Titebond (original) or or SIG Pro-Weld.

     I have almost nothing that anyone couldn't get for cheap. About the most exotic tools I have for model airplanes are various perma-grit files and the amazingly useful perma-grit sanding block, and I do almost everything with hand tools (and design the airplane in a way not to require much machine work).

      Brett

It is mighty fine to hear of folks doing wonderful modeling with what they have. True craftsman.

[Sean McEntee]

Fun to be out in the shop working late.

Yes....until you open the garage door, see the sun starting to come up, and realize you have to be at PT formation in an hour.... 

[Doug Moon]

   ... a balsa stripper (the $5 one from Master Airscrew that everybody says is junk), Also a razor plane (the $5 one from Master Airscrew that everybody says is junk) ...

      Brett

HAHAHAHAHAA!

I use the EXACT same ones and I think they are AWESOME!!!!  These two little jewels make so much of it so easy.

[Shug Emery]

Yes....until you open the garage door, see the sun starting to come up, and realize you have to be at PT formation in an hour.... 

Now that IS Hard Core modeling. If your gonna do it....over do it!
Fly on and be vigilant.

[Shug Emery]

HAHAHAHAHAA!

I use the EXACT same ones and I think they are AWESOME!!!!  These two little jewels make so much of it so easy.

Reckon you two fellers are scratch builders ?

[Brett Buck]

Reckon you two fellers are scratch builders ?

  I think Doug just flies RC ARFs or something, maybe quadcopters. He uses the razor plane to peel oranges.

   Brett

  Here he is, in his natural habitat:

[Shug Emery]

 I think Doug just flies RC ARFs or something, maybe quadcopters. He uses the razor plane to peel oranges.

   Brett

  Here he is, in his natural habitat:

A Champ.......good stuff.

[Shug Emery]

.....getting further along. Now just need to finish the top of wings, epoxy the hinges, hook all the hardware on, mount engine set my lines and maybe I'll get to fly soon. Been at this project more than you would know. Well....you all more than likely know)))))
This has been so fun and I have found it costs a wee bit to get back into all this.
Whooooo Buddy.
Shug

[Brett Buck]

A Champ.......good stuff.

  This is my self-portrait.

   Brett

[Shug Emery]

  This is my self-portrait.

   Brett

Haaaa...you may be my cousin)))))

[Shug Emery]

Whoooooooo Buddy. Got out of a family function today (begging helped) and finished up my covering job. Mounted the engine and tank.  More than likely will fool with the tank some more. Had to strap on a 4 oz tank as the 4 1/2 oz tank sat a wee high. We'll see how that shakes out.
Bit nose heavy. Do I add tail weight? Hmmmmm.
Now to do my letters better and hinge the flaps and tail. Then some bench trimming and hopefully the maiden soon. Still need to break the OS .40 in some more.
Going to re-up with the Minneapolis Piston Poppers and hope to share their circle.
Pretty happy with the scheme....looking forward to painting a ship one day when I have a bit more time. And patience.
This has been real fun to finish after all those years sitting in my Nut-Hut.
Now I long to feel the pull of the lines.
This site has been helpful and inspirational.
Shug

[Paul Taylor]

You did an outstanding job!
Looks great.
I would leave it nose heavy on first flights.

[Noel Corney]

You have done a really good job, It looks great. I hope it fly's as well as it looks for you.

[john e. holliday]

Ditto, on the  nose heavy.   At least it will come back so you can change it.  Looks great.

[Shug Emery]

You did an outstanding job!
Looks great.
I would leave it nose heavy on first flights.

Thanks a bunch. Gonna double check the CG today and glue the hinges. Seems more nose heavy than I need but true...better than tail heavy.

You have done a really good job, It looks great. I hope it fly's as well as it looks for you.

Many thanks on that. I am pleased with the colors. Inspired by a flight on Lufthansa. I'm excited and jittery for the first flight as it has been many years since I have flown. Warming up with 1/2 As to get prepared....as soon as the wind dies a bit.

Ditto, on the  nose heavy.   At least it will come back so you can change it.  Looks great.

True words I reckon. Thank you for chiming in. This site has been really helpful.

[Ward Van Duzer]

Beautiful job. I loved mine. Had an Randy tuned OS .32 on a pipe. You are going to love your Randy .40.

W.

[Bill Little]

Shug, that is one beautiful Prowler.   With the Randy .40FP it should be a great flying model!  My son built one and used a .40FP, it was one of the best flying profiles we have had.  Good luck!

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM