Step by step................

[Bill Little]

Ok , Guys, I am Dumb and Dumber.......  I had never TOUCHED a 4 stroke before I got a Saito .72.  I have a model designed for it under construction (Pat Johnston P-47).

Now I need to break in this .72.  It is a C/L version from the factory.  How do I do it?  (be specific)

Thanks
BIG Bear

[Bob Reeves]

Break-in procedure is described in the book that came with the engine. Problem with the CL version is keeping the RPM below the recommendation for the first run. Something like under 4k for the first 10 minutes. If you have any RC guys around try to borrow an RC carb to use for the initial run. Anything from a 56 to the 72 will work. Once you are past the first 10 minutes you can switch back to the CL intake. You can try to just run it slobbery rich leaving the battery connected but the RC carb will be allot easier. I keep one around just for break-in.

After the initial run just run it on the rich side at 8-9 grand for 10 to 15 minute runs with time to cool between till you have ran a gallon of fuel through it. It will then be ready to put on the airplane, after the 2nd gallon in flight it will settle down a little more and become consistant.

The second problem you will face with the CL intake is you will need to match the prop to the intake as the intake is fixed and the prop is the only variable you can control. You can't apply the old school of thought that if your lap times are too fast you need to go down in pitch. You will end up with a 4 or 5 pitch prop that sags overhead and isn't consistant.

My views on how to run a Saito have been posted many times and using a stock Saito CL intake isn't one of my choices.

[Bill Little]

Thank you, Bob.  As we get older it is harder and harder to keep everything in the memory banks and then be able to draw it back up.  When it comes time to break it in, I will see if someone on here can loan me a R/C carb to use on it.  I have asked before with the same general answers (which I appreciate!), but reading the instructions (which is simple and I can understand) didn't overcome the fact that with the C/L intake that holding it under 4000 rpm would be next to impossible.  A Saito .72 is akin to buying any of the first 4 cars I owned.  And on a fixed income I can't do that every day.  If it were a 2 cycle, I wouldn't have a problem.  But, since I have it, and intend to USE it, I don't want to mess it up beforehand.

Thanks!
Bill

[proparc]

Bill,

1.   Contact Chuck Norris-this is a big block you’ll need heavy backup.
2.   Learn how to back flip the motor to get consistent 1 flip starts.
3.   Don’t use an electric starter-hard on the internal drive train.
4.   Get used to flying on 70 foot lines-this is a must.
5.   Learn to say no-guys are going to want to mooch flights on your big block.
6.   Learn to cut down and balance big props i.e. 14x6 APC cut to 13X6 etc.
7.   Get used to guys getting @#$% off at you because you can fly in wind they can’t.
8.   Remember to have fun!!!

P.S. As I am going to the 91, I will need to contact Arnold Schwarzenegger for backup.

[Eric Viglione]

Sorry Bill, but for some reason, to this day when someone starts out with "Step by Step" it leads me to think " slowly i turned and step by step" which leads me to think of this:
     


EricV

PS: On a serious note, I would leave the break in procedure to be done until your new model is nearly 100% complete and the paint is gassing off. 4Strokes have a lot of parts to gum up while sitting around for extended periods.

[Bob Reeves]

PS: On a serious note, I would leave the break in procedure to be done until your new model is nearly 100% complete and the paint is gassing off. 4Strokes have a lot of parts to gum up while sitting around for extended periods.

Not an issue if you run the recommended all synthetic fuel and use after run oil. 

Not something I would normally do but I've even completely neglected engines ran on Powermaster YS 20-20 and after two years sitting still just fine, no rust and no gum.

[Eric Viglione]

Not an issue if you run the recommended all synthetic fuel and use after run oil.  

Not something I would normally do but I've even completely neglected engines ran on Powermaster YS 20-20 and after two years sitting still just fine, no rust and no gum.

I hear you Bob but I wouldn't try that where I live... the humidity is seldom below 85% here and ball bearing engines suck humid air through them and rust the bearings in no time if not stored properly with afterrun oil. I insulated my shop and added AC to help fight this but not everyone can do that.

[Martin Quartim]

Here in Brazil is humid in the summer and mild in the winter. Today I took my Super Tucano with an OS 70Ultimate 4S out of the wall for a flight after 1.5 years and it ran perfectly. Initially I thought the BB went bad but as soon as I choke the engine and fliped  few times it smooth out. I guess it had some dry oil, but that was it.

I use Byron 20/20 YS (powermaster was not available here) and it has additives that takes care of the engine.  Actually this is the second time my Super Tucano was put  aside for more then an year and went right back into service.

I sure love 4S engines!

Martin